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Wheelies

Old 06-27-2013, 07:01 PM
  #1  
LIKE-A-BOSS
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Default Wheelies

Hey guys I was wonder ing how to make my revo 2.5r to do a wheelie
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Old 06-28-2013, 01:59 AM
  #2  
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Default RE: Wheelies

Well first thing you do is pull that 2+5 engine off...install a OS .21 tm with revo manifold ..break in engine nice slow and easy ...after broke in squeeze trigger fast ...instant wheeliie until you let off trigger...I had a 2.5r..then a 3.3..if u tune the 3.3 reap good it will wheelie a lil bit..if u install the OS engine that engine is a beast..way more bottom and mid range power...it will change to 2nd gear and pull a wheelie changing gears..there are more powerful motors but u don't have to modify drive train for this engine..
OS ENGINES FROM NOW ON ONLY.
PROUD OWNER OF REVO WITH OS .21 TM ENGINE.
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Old 06-28-2013, 06:12 PM
  #3  
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Default RE: Wheelies

Thank u I will order one today

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Old 07-16-2013, 11:02 AM
  #4  
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Default RE: Wheelies

Your 2.5r will pull wheelies. Get it up to operating temp bu running a few passes. Lean out the HSN a tiny bit at a time until you get your wheelies. Helps to tighten down the slipper clutch also.
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Old 07-17-2013, 01:37 AM
  #5  
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Default RE: Wheelies


ORIGINAL: nitrorcjunkie

Your 2.5r will pull wheelies. Get it up to operating temp bu running a few passes. Lean out the HSN a tiny bit at a time until you get your wheelies. Helps to tighten down the slipper clutch also.

Well you might get it done like that but
1) by leaning the hsn that much on that 2.5 your running way to lean..
2) tighten the slipper and your sure to replace tranny gears...
I had above2.5 I ram to death..with a good tune on it its not gonna wheeliie ...if you lean out a 1.5 enough it will wheelie a few times before it locks up lol...
Remember this is ALL IMO...
It was hard on the tranny to get the 3.3 to wheelie good..
But hey It's not my truck. If you lean it out and tighten the slipper please repost a week later and tell us how its doing.
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:03 AM
  #6  
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Default RE: Wheelies

This is straight from traxxas
The slipper clutch is adjusted by loosening the spring-loaded locknut on the slipper

shaft. Use the supplied 8mm open-end metric wrench. To tighten or loosen the

slipper nut, insert the 2.0mm hex wrench into the hole in the end of the slipper shaft.

This locks the shaft for adjustments. Turn the adjustment nut clockwise to tighten (less

slippage) and counter-clockwise to loosen (more slippage).

From the factory the slipper clutch is set for minimal slippage, just enough to protect

the drivetrain from shock loads. On slippery, low traction surfaces such as a hard-

packed, dry racetrack you may benefit from loosening the slipper adjustment nut to

allow for more clutch slippage. This will make the truck easier and more forgiving to

drive by helping to reduce the amount of wheel spin. Loosening the slipper adjustment

can also improve performance on extreme high traction

surfaces by preventing the front end from lifting off of the groundwhen accelerating.

Make slipper adjustments in small 1/8 turn increments.

The maximum tight setting for the slipper is just at the point where there is little or no

tire slippage on a high traction surface such as carpet or a prepared racetrack. The

slipper should not be tightened to the point that clutch slippage is completely

eliminated. Do not overtighten the slipper nut or you could damage the slipper

bearings, pressure plates, or other components.
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Old 09-27-2013, 08:11 PM
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My first OS motor. Talking about a slow break in. I'm sure I would win a reward for the slowest, lol. Used this method :


DO NOT run the engine at full throttle until the break-in procedure
is complete and the needles are set for your current conditions.
We DO NOT recommend that you idle your engine on a starter
box for break-in.
Do not allow the engine to run out of fuel during break-in. This will
cause the engine to lean out possibly causeing engine damage.
We highly recommend the use of a quality temperature gauge
to monitor engine temperature.
Find a large, flat, open area to perform the break-in procedure.
When leaning the engine during break-in, only
make adjustments of 1-hour increments. This will
help prevent over leaning the engine during breakin
and causing damage to your engine.

Tanks 1-4: Start the engine and run the vehicle approximately 100
feet back and forth or in a fi gure eight. Do not squeeze the throttle
more than 1/2-way. Every 4-6 passes check the engine temp
making sure that it does not go over 170 Fahrenheit. Continue this
procedure for the fi rst four tanks, making sure you do not allow the
engine to run out of fuel.
Tanks 5-6:
Continue running the vehicle approximately 100 feet
back and forth. Now you can squeeze the throttle 3/4 of the way.
Continue to temp the engine every 4-6 passes, making sure that
the engine temperature does not go over 190 Fahrenheit. After
tank 6 you are ready to fi ne tune in your engine. After tank 6 allow
the engine to cool down. Then restart the engine.

Tanks 7-8:
You can now run the vehicle approximately 150-200
feet, pulling the trigger to full throttle the last 50 feet of each pass.
Continue to temp the engine every 4-6 passes, making sure that
the engine temperature is close to 200 Fahrenheit but no more
than 210 Fahrenheit.
During tanks 7-8 bring the vehicle to a stop and allow it to idle for 10
seconds. Then pull full throttle for approximately 100 feet. Take note
of how much smoke comes out during acceleration. Optimum is a
small amount of smoke from stop to approximately 100 feet. Once
this is achieved do the same thing only go 150-200 feet. Continue
to check the engine temperature every 4-6 passes. The fi nal head
temp after break-in should be approximately 210 Fahrenheit.
After the 8th tank, your engine should be ready to race.

After the fourth tank I ran my temps around 200. 190 is a little low conceding it will be run around 220.
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Last edited by ou812lol; 09-27-2013 at 08:12 PM. Reason: wrong info
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Old 09-28-2013, 02:52 AM
  #8  
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Default wrong info from ou812lol

As I was reading I knew the temps weren't hot enough for break in on the first 5 to 6 tanks..them should be about 225 degrees.
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Old 09-28-2013, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by vxlsteve View Post
As I was reading I knew the temps weren't hot enough for break in on the first 5 to 6 tanks..them should be about 225 degrees.
I agree, I made note of that ant end for post. This is straight from O'Donnell himself. I use his fuel so I figured I would use his break in method. Over 20 years experience with nitro R/C.
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Old 09-29-2013, 03:38 AM
  #10  
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Try Byrons gen 2 pro blend...temps will drop at least 20 the tune holds perfectly through around 30 temp. Change..yesterday morning when I did my first run it was 48 outside...when I did my last one in the evening it was 76 outside. Never touched the needles..having said that I contribute a lot of that to the engine it is a os. 21 tm...I will never run another engine on any vehicle that I can make it work on...my first one went 12 gallons before replacing the bearings.. it has 16 gallons on it now and still as strong as the 1st gallon..I put it up for a spare and bought another that has 2 gallons on it now..so I know I have a lot of run time left in its life ..the revo is the best mt I've ever ran..Traxxas builds the best vehicles hands down IMO....also IMO os best engine..run Traxxas hard and run long..
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Old 11-02-2013, 03:40 AM
  #11  
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Thank u I will order one today

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Old 11-02-2013, 06:31 AM
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Easy way to make more power with any engine is simply to add more nitro and put a better pipe on it. The pipe alone can take a toad of an engine to a much better place. The 2.5 is timed pretty well so It would benefit well from a new pipe. Try running some 30%nitro/8%oil fuel, hot glow plug, and a pipe and see how you feel. The 2.5 is no slouch if you treat it right.
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