IslandStyle

Hi, I'm new to this sita and I was wondering if someone could help me out here. Anyways, I am in the process of converting my T-maxx 2.5 into the .21 conversion. My problem that I have is the motor that it came with is a Hpi .21 and I tried to put the Hpi flywheel and clutch bell that it came with but I had noticed the teeth pitch is different fro the T-Maxx. I could be wrong but I found a clutch nut with washers on New-Era which makes it possible for you to utilize a flywheel and clutch setup for the T-Maxx. Is that the only way to solve the problem? Upon inspection I noticed that the crankshaft had been shortened. Any help would be great to rn the motor for the time being until I get my XTM 24.7 engine.......

mgreen

No. I used all my orginal T-Maxx flywheel and clutchbell. Your going to have to use shims, or thin washers, to get everything to work right.

The T-Maxx uses a 32 pitch while the 1/8th stuff uses 42 pitch. You can buy conversions so that you can start using 42 pitch clutchbell and speer-gear but the 32 pitch clutchbell and speer-gear will work just fine. I hope your prepared to replace your diffs with harded stuff like Robinson Racing or whatever.

mgreen

I'm running the OS RG .21

IslandStyle

The thing about it is, the HPI .21 engine doesn't have a groove where the e-clip locks the clutch bell onto. The HPI engine utilizes a screw to secure the clutch bell onto the flywheel. []

IslandStyle

I was planning on getting the diffs form Unlimited Engineering, I just purchased stainless steel axle shafts, now I gotta get the driveshafts (most likely titanium)....

mgreen

that screw is OK. Is it getting in the way or something? That should work. The OS RG .21 had both. The tip of the shaft would take a screw, but it also had grooves for the use of an e-clip.

As long as everything spins free, you should be OK. I had to use shims to get the clutchbell to even out on the shaft so that it did not slide back-in-forth.

Now your going to have to put a washer on the end of the screw before to screw it into the shaft so that the clutchbell will not slide off or bind from the screw itself.

IslandStyle

So what your saying is I could be able to use the HPI flywheel and clutch setup, I just have to change my spur gear to the 42 pitch due to the HPI clutch bell being a 42 pitch, correct? I was just thinking if the clutch nut kit that New Era sells would work and make it somewhat easier.

R/C Madman

My Feedback: (1)

If I am not mistaken you need to re-gear you Maxx if you use the UE diffs.

This is a quote from the UE site

" These do lower your overall gear ratio, you will need to gear your truck up.
Maxx R&P ratio is 2.85:1
7.5 R&P ratio is 3.31:1

For this reason you must upgrade both ends of the truck at the same time. Do not try to mix ratios.

If running 22/72 with the Maxx ring and pinion, 23/65 would be the identical ratio with the 7.5s
I’m running 22/66 at the moment. It has tons of bottom end, but feels like it could use some more top. Though there is no question the truck is fast even on a large track. (I had a 23 but it had a problem and I’ve not gotten it replaced yet.)"

wadesie93

My Feedback: (11)

Does anyone have any opinions on the XTM 24.7? I am considering converting my tmaxx to that. Also what did you get for a conversion kit? I was looking at the XTM it seems to have almost everything including CVDs.

R/C Madman

My Feedback: (1)

XTM is a good kit but, the CVD's are junk if you are running a .21. I have 2 XTM converted Maxx's and my first .21 Max was a New Era. I now have a new SuperMaxx.

DirtDriver89

i hear XTM is da bomb except the cvd's that always break but you can get diffrent ones

Project_2501

yeah, maybe robinson racing. or MIP

lowseylos

hey island you need whats called a slipper clutch you can get all you need here www.crispycrittershobbyshop.com whith the slipper and ofna clutch bell and ue diffs you can have whats called "eighth scale gearing"
just start fom scratch i found its better that way rathe rthan trying to swith parts as they break

mgreen

I agree with the last post. I gets real tricky when you try to add different parts to other different parts when you don't know the technical details. I try to stick with stuff that actually says that its for T-Maxxs. Motor wise, you just have to make sure the gear meshing is correct and that you take the 1/10th scale aspect into consideration when changing up different brand gears.

I used the Dynamite Convertion and I'm happy with it. I haven't had a chance to use the cvd's that came with the kit because I already had the MIP CVDs.

IslandStyle

Oh, by the way, the conversion kit is from Hardcore Racing. Thanks guys for the input and I'll update y'all on the progress and maybe ask a few more questions if I should have any other problems. And yes I read the qoute from the UE site R/C madman, concerning the different gear ratio, thanks though for the advice...