jefx

OK, since the recent news of the delay for shipping of the LST, I went and bought a Wasp .21 drop-in for my Maxx. Does anyone else have this engine? Are there any tips I should know about for this engine?

dirtbrosbmx

i dont know much bout the engine but i did sign the petition

jefx

Thank you.

SamP-51flyer

My Feedback: (2)

I here its a nice engine although you should prepare to well how should I say upgrade you drivetrain but I suppose you already have

jefx

Yes I have. I already have a RRP steel FOC, steel spur gear, MIP and RD logics cvds, and Maximizer aluminum diff cups.

TexasTMaxx

I run the Werks version of the engine and love it. Mine isn't too hard on the drivetrain either. 2 gallons through it and only replaced the diffs once and broke the rear driveshaft tonight. Not too bad for stock drivetrain!!

jefx

Well I've got it all sealed, assembled, and installed. Hopefully I can start breaking it in soon, if the weather clears. It seems to be of pretty good quality, although the carb slide seems kinda sticky. So was the floor model at the LHS, and I asked the kid why that was and he said it was because it had been sitting out and people had been playing with it and stuff, but he assured me that after some fuel had been through it, it wouldn't be sticky. I put a couple drops of ARO in the carb and it's still sticky, but my servo doesn't have a problem opening and closing it.

It's not as tight as my Sirio 18 was (which was suprising to me), so the EZ start shouldn't have a problem turning it over.

I'll be running it with a Motor Saver 3 stage filter, a Sirio big bore pipe, and a GA 3-shoe alum clutch. Hopefully this thing will make some awesome power.

kf6gub

My Feedback: (1)

Man, am I jealous! I've got the Sirio, and it has destroyed the rear axle shafts just one time and nothing else...I think. I just reinstalled the 2.5, which was such a pain in the...you know where. I am surprised that I can deal with that motor so much better than before. I've got it operating...well...have-way decent. I practiced tuning on the Sirio, and now I'm much better with the 2.5. The 2.5 has much less power than the Sirio. Now I want the Picco, Ofna, or Orion (They're all the same.) Jim

jefx

Why did you go back to the 2.5?

kf6gub

My Feedback: (1)

jefx, I really didn't go back to the 2.5. It's just something to do. I now know more about tuning because of my experience with the Sirio, which was much easier to tune for me. So I decided to utilize my new-found skill with tuning on the 2.5 to see what I could do. I was surprised. I now can make my 2.5 run a lot better. Again, it's just something to do. I will get a Picco (Ofna, Orion, Werks, etc.) real soon. Just something to do. And I do get a rush. Jim

jefx

Ya, my Sirio 18 chewed through my drivetrane pretty good, so I upgraded the whole thing, hopefully it will hold up to the Wasp.

jefx

OK, well here it goes. Just got done breaking in this new Wasp 21. Everything was going well, it fired right up and ran consistantly.
I idled through the whole first tank (as the manual suggested) and it was keeping the appropriate temps (120-150). Drove it through the next 5 tanks, keeping the temp at a pretty consistant 135, and increased speed with each consecutive tank, letting it cool to ambient temp between tanks.
On the 6th tank I started to let it fly. I started to lean it a bit, and to my amazement, it shifted into second gear without a problem. I figured the shift point would have to be adjusted to compensate for the lower RPM that this engine produces, but no. It was screaming into second gear so quickly, that many times I couldn't even hear it shift, and the top RPM sounded as if it was no lower than my old Sirio 18. I was amazed at the speed it had, considering the gearing is still at 20/72. It pulled very hard from mid range as if trying to pull wheelies.
The suggested normal operating temps are between 180 and 200, but it wouldn't clear out very well at those temps. I started tuning it for performance rather than temp, and it cleared out good and ran very well while reaching a temp of 220. There was still a trail of smoke, and I know that it wanted to be leaned out a little more, but considering the temps I was hitting, I left it where it was, just a touch rich. It was very hot and muggy, it felt more like Orlando Florida than Rockford Illinois, and I hope that the higher than suggested engine temps were attributed to that fact.
Happy with the high speed setting, I started to tune the low end. A small adjustment at a time, and it was starting to pull hard of the line. I hadn't reached a point where is was pulling wheelies yet, but it was accelerating very quickly and reaching top speed almost instantaniously. This setup could deffinately use some taller gears, but the weight of my truck was keeping the front end earthbound.
All of a sudden it took off on me while at a distance of about 75 yards away. I have a failsafe which I had just reprogrammed and tested before I started the break-in process, and I was clueless as to what was happening. I took off running after it as fast as I could and managed to turn the wheels of the truck before it ran full speed into a curb, which resulted in a nasty roll over. The engine layed there screaming like a helpless baby, and just before I reached it, the engine quit running. I though for sure that I had just locked-up my brand new engine.
I took it back to my truck to investigate what had gone wrong, and I noticed that some how my failsafe had malfunctioned. It was locked in the full throttle position, and blinking to tell me it had lost signal. I had just reprogrammed it, and know for a FACT that it WAS working correctly. I re-reprogrammed it for half brake, and then plugged in the ez start to try and turn the engine over.
It turned over fine and everything sounded alright, but upon inspecting the rest of my truck, my front cvd was just flopping around. The bearing that held it in place in the front of the tranny case was missing, I don't know how it could have fallen out, so maybe it just shredded into oblivion. My front Maximizer aluminum diff is also broken. I don't know how that could have happened as I wasn't jumping, and I hadn't ran into anything.

Well anyway, I've got alot of work on my hands.

kf6gub

My Feedback: (1)

Jefx, I tried my 2.5; it's gone: It needs a new piston and sleeve. It won't hold an idle. It had seemed promising. I may not want to put anymore money into it. Interesting while it lasted. May just go for the Picco .21. Jim

jefx

Go for it. The thing is crazy. It found a way to shred my drivetrane in the first half hour, and the whole drivetrane is beefed up already.

MAXXacceleration

My P2(Ofna) is crazy too. And with stock 20/72 gearing also. I agree with you jefx, the P2 has some amazing top end(the non-owners talk down its top end). I don't hear my Maxx shift either-but it does!
I really don't need it any faster LOL
What a 9lb. bullet!

jefx

I know it, I was VERY suprised at the top speed this engine was providing, and it gets there in a QUICKNESS! Are you getting wheelies? I didn't have enough time to get the LSN all the way dialed in. Also how are your temps?

MAXXacceleration

Not too bad on wheelies. I'm spinning slides out of the corners using wheelspin to keep the front down.
Temps are around 230. I just kept going richer on this motor to hold the temps down. And it kept screaming with lots of smoke.
With my Maximizer ultra diff, this motor throws ROCKS!

jefx

Awesome. Mine was getting close to pulling wheelies, but It's heavier than most with some aluminum doodads, roll bar, and Big Joe tires. I was hitting temps of 220, and the engine still wanted to be leaner, so the fact that yours runs good at 230 makes me feel alot better, as the suggested temps are 180-200. My rear Maximizer has held up fine, but the Wasp tore up the front one today, I've yet to take it apart, but it feels as if the cup screws got sheared off.

Also, what kind of plug, fuel, pipe and filter are you using?

MAXXacceleration

Oh no, my secrets lol.
Mc-9(going to try the Mc-8), Blue Thunder 20%, THS, MS.
I'm still running STOCK front diff & axles-no signs of wear yet. Just built rear.
Stock tranny & RRP slipper.
Maximizer has the RRP & 3mm screw set-up.

jefx

Yup, those are the ones I have, and the front one blew out today.

I'm running a Motor Saver 3-stage filter, Monster Horsepower 20%, Sirio Big Bore pipe, and an O.S. LC3 hot plug. I was also thinking of trying a cooler plug, maybe that will pull the temp down a couple degrees? I've heard that you should run cold plugs in big block engines, but this isn't really a big block, so maybe a medium plug?

MAXXacceleration

OOPs, my mistake jefx-I meant Mc-9, NOT Mc-59. Spaced. Mc-59 in my smallblocks...

jefx

I just noticed a small pool of oil under my flywheel, like the engine is leaking from the front bearing. This also used to happen to my Sirio 18, does it happen to yours?

Deandome

My Feedback: (1)

HELP!!

Putting together my new .21 & clutch.

1) as you look at the front of the engine, the shaft turns COUNTERclockwise, Right?

2) If so, how do I mount my clutch shoes? The Traxxas manual shows the stock shoes mounted like I thought they should go: the "loose" end of the shoe TRAILS the pin so it flies outward as it spins.

BUT the drawing with my new RadRC 4-shoe clutch shows the opposite....the loose end is BEFORE the pin!! This would definitely 'bite' the clutchbell better, and the shoes are certainly a lot shorter. But it seems to fly in the face of logic...I'd think the shoe would always fly 'up' BEHIND the pin, not in front of it.

Do you know what I'm talking about? Do you know which way I should mount the shoes?

PLEASE reply a.s.a.p....I need to get this puppy screaming!!

Thanks!


Dean

TexasTMaxx

Mine does the same thing and has since it was new. I haven't seen anything bad from it though other than a dirty MAXX!!

jefx

Either way is correct, it depends on how you want your clutch to behave. If you mount them with the trailing edge clockwise (Traxxas recommended), then you will get longer life from your clutch. If you mount them with the trailing edge counter-clockwise, then you will get a higher stall point and harder engagement, but sacrifice life.