toofazt

Hey everyone. Just signed up here and hope to learn a lot.

I just got a lightly used 3.3 T-maxx w/ some upgrades. It's got RPM front and rear A-arms, Integy chassis braces, trans RPM skid plate, front and rear RPM skid plates, Integy aluminum chassis, 1100mah NiMH Hump pack.

This is my first nitro rc car, so I'm a newb but not a dumbass I'd like to learn as much as possible about my new tmaxx to keep it in great condition.

The first time I started it up today I hit the gas, did a wheelie that flipped it over and caught my glow plug wire between my engine head and sheared the wire in half Luckily there was an extra in the pack the guy sent me. So after that it ran great! Went through about 2.5 tanks

So here's some of my questions:

1. What is a good operating temperature and how important is it to constantly check?

2. What are some common problems w/ the 3.3 if any and are there any simple mods to increase performance w/ these trucks?

3. How long do these engines usually last? I see people rate the engines by tanks or gallons of nitro?

4. The shocks on my tmaxx are kinda sagging and seem really soft, what's a good cheap suspension upgrade? Springs, different oil? (I mostly use the truck to mess around and jump stuff).

5. Who makes a reliable inexpensive safety cut off if the truck wanders out of range?

6. Are there any long lasting tough tires out there? From the one drive I did today on the stock tires I ripped one of the tires off and tore another. And the tire didn't just come unglued from the rim, it actually tore around the rim about 1/2" in

7. It seems like my tmaxx never shifts to second gear, I know their are kits that make the tmaxx only have one gear for racing, but how do I tell if mine has that?

I guess that's all the questions I have for now, thanks to anyone who can help!

Turboprop130

what's up, I can probably answer some or your questions:

1. A good temp range IMO is between 220 to 260. 270 max. I don't obsess over the temp. The temp fluctuates so checking it constantly will give you multiple readings and you'll never stop tuning. Get it in the temp range and you should be good. Get a good temp guage. I'd stay away from the traxxas and mip on board gauges. I had one and it would read anywhere from 10 to 50 degrees off.

2. Some simple mods would be stuff like an air filter upgrade, tuned pipe, stronger steering servo, metal spur gear. etc, etc. Depends on your cash flow.

3. Depends on how well you care for your motor. For example: tuning, after run mantainence, etc.

4. Heavier weight oil will firm up the shocks to help prevent bottoming out, and higher rate springs will give you a stiffer ride.

5. Venom Racing makes a failsafe for like 20 bucks.

6. Proline makes great tires and rims. Go with some 40 series and get some 23mm adapters

7. This shifting problem can be complicated because there are a number of different reasons this could be happening. If the high speed needle isn't set right and your running really rich it won't shift. Lean it out a little and see if that works. If that's not it, it might be that your trans needs ajustment. The manual goes in-depth on this procedure and if you don't have it you can download it on the traxxas website. The only way to tell if the one speed conversion was installed is to either ask the person you got it from or pull the trans apart. From what I've seen, most people don't change to single speed.

rcnitrohead

Omg I feel for you so badly man[&o] You'll see what I mean in your couple of next tanks[:@]

adam032981

Ya your wallet is gona be hungry

ttoks

steel spur gears are a no no, the spur gear is a week point, if you run a steel spur gear, other, more expensive parts such as the diffs and tranny become the week point instead, so keep the spur plastic is a good idea.

also if your gear mesh is off with a steel spur, you will eat throguh clutch bell gears, which are something like $15 each compared to $3 for a new spur.

and the venom fail safe, although a good idea (it is a failsafe with a temp gauge) almost halfs the radio range, it's a great concept, but it needs some work, almost any failsafe will work, i run one from an ofna hyper st.

rcnitrohead

I urge you to sell it before you become attatched to it and start spending lots of $$$ on it, buy a Revo MGT or Savage[8D]

toofazt

Thank you Turboprop130 & ttoks for the info


I really might take your advice, lol. About 70% of the posts and articles I've read say don't get a tmaxx if you don't like replacing parts all the time...

I'd like to start off w/ a good platform. I'm not obsessed how fast the truck will go but I want it to have some balls and not break all the time. Upon further inspection today, I see I have a crack forming on the bulkhead

Now I'm looking at the Savage and it seems like they cost less than this 3.3 Tmaxx that I bought... I paid $315 for it. Can anyone give me good legit reasons why the Savage is better than the 3.3 tmaxx I have right now and what model Savage? Stronger (how)? Faster, more powerful (how)? I know from first hand experiance that the tmaxx is pretty easy to work on and parts are plentiful and inexpensive for the most part. But I see how it could add up fast if you break stuff every time you go out!

I still would like to get an estimate on how many gallons you can run through these engines before a rebuild... How long do the servos last? Should I be messing around w/ it everyday in the streets or should I save it for the weekend when I can actually go somewhere cool w/ jumps and a track?

The guy I bought the tmaxx from just responded to me about the shifting:

jkdv8

My Feedback: (1)

they are all one in the same fazt. if you drive them hard they all break.

rcnitrohead

Ok heres the deal, a stock TRX engine 2.5/3.3 you can expect to last between 5-9 gallons with proper care. I would definitely advise you to get the Savage, Ive got both the Maxx and the Savage. I have the 25, with the stock engine it would keep up with my Maxx until the Maxx hit second gear. Top speed was fine but around 3-5mph less thah my T-maxx. Its pretty easy to work on once you get used to it, in fact for complicated repairs its much easier, but for simple things like taking out a servo it can be a bit time consuming. Savage is so durable that you will almost never break it, if you bash really hard you may break it maybe 2-3 times a year unlike the T-maxx which breaks after almost every outing. I bought an STS .30 for mine and I havent broke it in yet but it will definitely be a monster. If you do get a Savage and have the cash, go for the X SS kit, its worth it. If you dont buy the 4.6 RTR and that will easily keep up/ out run a 3.3 Maxx/ Revo Also, these big blocks last much longer than smallblocks since they like to run cooler and are less finnicky/ way more easy to tune. Tom.

toofazt

I like the idea that the big block lasts longer and is easier to tune. So is this a kit where it comes with everything you need, you just have to build it? Seems like a pretty good price... http://cgi.ebay.com/1-8-HPI-SAVAGE-X...QQcmdZViewItem


Edit* Found out the kit comes w/ no electronics or radio. So it costs a little more than I want to dump into a rc car! I guess I'll just stay w/ my tmaxx

What's the best way to monitor the engine temperature?

BTW, I downloaded the owners manual off the traxxas web site and found out the 3.3 comes equipped w/ a fail safe already

jkdv8

My Feedback: (1)

yeam most of the kits dont come with radio gear and some dont even come with an engine.

i use on board temp gauges but, i also have a temp gun(more to carry around though). once its tuned right you really dont need to pay much attention to it unless conditions change. although as soon i can find one for a decent price i was going to look into a Nomadio React or Sensor. It can display all that info (batt. level, speed, rpm, and temp) on the lcd of the transmitter not to mention other very useful features. if they only made a fuel gauge sensor so i could do an aluminum fuel tank.

i believe if its equipped with the opti-drive it has a built in fail safe.

69eyes

i have a steel spur and CVDs and ive landed WOT on a jump and nothing broke, the tranny and diffs are fine, but maybe thats just me lol, im sure something will give soon

toofazt

I just picked up a Odonnel racing TGX1 infrared temp gauge and some 70wt shock oil. Time to go to the mini bike track

rawiswar

well i have heard a lot that savage diffs are poo

rcnitrohead

Well you are wrong, many people run the stock diffs with .28 through .32 engines and have no problems. This especially true if you have the alum diff cups from HPI. Toofazt, trust me many, your going to dump way more into that Maxx in a month then you will put into the Savage in a year (in replacement parts that is). Plus with the kit then you get to buy your own radio gear so you dont have to spend money hopping it up. If its still too much why not opt for the X 4.6 RTR?

toofazt

The x 4.6 rtr costs about $150 more than my 3.3 tmaxx did...

CB 1

My cousin wants a T-Maxx 3.3 real bad. he doesnt have a bunch of money so does anybody know where he can find one for cheap or with a doscount on it. i want him to get a new one most of all. thanks alot for all your help

z33guru

One thing to note, the savage models seem to have alot more aluminum, at least the ones i've looked at.Its easier (and cheaper) to replace broken plastic than it is to fix or replace bent aluminum.

crazykat

Welcome to the hobby. I started out with a T-MAXX 2.5 and I have enjoyed it. Im glad I started with it. It is easy to work on because of the flat chassis. The Savage has TVPs that make it look a little more intimidating. Last year built me a Savage XSS with a JR XS3 Pro Radio and an Axial .28. Now I mainly run the savage . I still have my T-MAXX and I still love it. Dont think I could ever get rid of it.

nitrorc89

i started with a tmaxx... good truck to start with but i do have to work on it alot.. now its not even running i got 8 gallons out of it and i have a bearing in the crank going out but oh well i am slowly building it for a show truck because i have a aftershock and a savage..... i will say i have ran about a gallon and a half through my savage ... and i run my trucks extremely hard.... and have not broke anything yet.... i am the type of person that there is no jump to big... and i am never going fast enough... lol... you cant run a maxx like that you will have a pile of parts laying in front of you everytime... my savage dont break... or at least has not yet..lol

nitro engine

With the shifting problem you can adjust it like take the rubber plug out of the spur gear holder it should be at the top.
Then turn the spur gear until you can see a bigger hole that goes deeper in ther and get the small alen wrench and hold the spur gear and adjust it. then run it until it shifts when you whant it to.
(Turn the alen wrench counter clock wise)