werks 4 shoes clutch for t maxx 3.3
06-03-2006, 02:34 PM
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werks 4 shoes clutch for t maxx 3.3
hey i waz looking on ebay and found the werks racing 4 shoe clutch system with clutch bell for traxxas tmaxx 2.5 my ? is simply this with the simularities of the 2.5 and 3.3 will be better for the truck sence im running the blazer 44's on my truck ? i mean will my truck slow down to stop eating clutch shoes so fast im barely getting 3 tanks of fuel per set of shoes thanks guys hope sum one can help me with this problem
06-03-2006, 05:46 PM
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RE: werks 4 shoes clutch for t maxx 3.3
there a tire from imex i think it is there over all size comes to 44inces there taller then stock and like two tires wide
06-03-2006, 07:05 PM
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RE: werks 4 shoes clutch for t maxx 3.3
choppermikez.rcuniverse.com is were u can go to see a picture of the truck its pretty sweet for being traxxas but if i could just find out how good the 4 shoe clutch system from werksracing.com is it would be really sweet cuz right now it has to have a running start to jump curbs or climb anything cuz it just dont have a good displacment with the stock and mip clutch shoes other then that when u first put em in wheels great has a ton of power but by the end of the first tank its toast theres barely anything left of the shoes
so pleez if ne one out there knows how good the werks racing 4 shoe clutch is pleez lmk thanks guys
so pleez if ne one out there knows how good the werks racing 4 shoe clutch is pleez lmk thanks guys
06-03-2006, 08:05 PM
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RE: werks 4 shoes clutch for t maxx 3.3
just click Gallery under Choppers posts.
Chopper, i have the clutch and have used it.. i have the carbon shoes and have not used the others...
heres my take.
It will Hook you up!!.. WHEN DIALED IN!!! its a very tight setup and installs very well, be sure to use the supplied race behind the flywheel. the clutch shoes have held up pretty good so far, but i have only put about 6 tanks on them. Why? mostly becuz its a bit of a pita to keep it set. when i first used it, i set it per manual and it was sweet... i was getting maybe 400 to 500 more rpm before the shoes would engage... HOOKED UP off the line. it works exactly ,imo, like you would expect a stall coverter on an automatic tranny to work in a real race car...depending on spring tension, that would vary when your shoes engage. first thing to say is getting it installed isnt bad at all, fits right up. if you have the stock plastic spurs your good to go, the supplied CB is a 22t, keeps the wheels on the ground when you need it. at take off, but if you have a steel spur you ll not want to use the aluminum cb, you ll rip it up! in about 15 minutes if your not carefull, it doesnt take much stress to burn off the teeth on it. you ll need a better cb. most of the stock units wont fit on it.. the bell needed to fit over the Werks Clutch needs to be a bit larger than the standard cbs, so you ll need a heavey duty cb, or betteryet a vented cb that will fit. haveing the vents would be good as with 4 shoes, youll generate more heat.
it will take a bit of time to adjust, which is another pita cuz you gotta pull the cb to get to the nut to adjust it. plus with the spring tension, its not an easy feat even with the engine out... once i put on a good cb, it was going pretty good until the spring nut started to loosen up, so i put Locktight on the threads and let it completely dry the nut would stay in place. issue is if your not "perfect" with the spring tension, then your not in the best spot, you could be to tight or too loose so needing to be re adjusted.. so you have to pull the engine pull the cb, make your adjustment, let locktight dry, reinstall, check out. if its good cool if not? yup pull engine pull cb, re adjust.....
once you ve done it a few times you get an idea how tight to make the spring the first time..lol but no matter what i did, short of useing the heavy red locktight on the spring nut, IT ALWAYS became lose, and i had to start the proces all over again..
also with your tires and rig, i take your your a basher. though a decent clutch set up for bashing your better off going to a slightly less thight spur gear and be just as far ahead.
If your a Serious Track Racer and know your Poop< GO for it, it will be worth it. other than that, more work than its worth so it takes ALL the advantage out of it. if it were designed to be adjusted without removeing the engine, cb and all, it would be MUCH MUCH MUCH Better.
jm2c
Timmahh
Chopper, i have the clutch and have used it.. i have the carbon shoes and have not used the others...
heres my take.
It will Hook you up!!.. WHEN DIALED IN!!! its a very tight setup and installs very well, be sure to use the supplied race behind the flywheel. the clutch shoes have held up pretty good so far, but i have only put about 6 tanks on them. Why? mostly becuz its a bit of a pita to keep it set. when i first used it, i set it per manual and it was sweet... i was getting maybe 400 to 500 more rpm before the shoes would engage... HOOKED UP off the line. it works exactly ,imo, like you would expect a stall coverter on an automatic tranny to work in a real race car...depending on spring tension, that would vary when your shoes engage. first thing to say is getting it installed isnt bad at all, fits right up. if you have the stock plastic spurs your good to go, the supplied CB is a 22t, keeps the wheels on the ground when you need it. at take off, but if you have a steel spur you ll not want to use the aluminum cb, you ll rip it up! in about 15 minutes if your not carefull, it doesnt take much stress to burn off the teeth on it. you ll need a better cb. most of the stock units wont fit on it.. the bell needed to fit over the Werks Clutch needs to be a bit larger than the standard cbs, so you ll need a heavey duty cb, or betteryet a vented cb that will fit. haveing the vents would be good as with 4 shoes, youll generate more heat.
it will take a bit of time to adjust, which is another pita cuz you gotta pull the cb to get to the nut to adjust it. plus with the spring tension, its not an easy feat even with the engine out... once i put on a good cb, it was going pretty good until the spring nut started to loosen up, so i put Locktight on the threads and let it completely dry the nut would stay in place. issue is if your not "perfect" with the spring tension, then your not in the best spot, you could be to tight or too loose so needing to be re adjusted.. so you have to pull the engine pull the cb, make your adjustment, let locktight dry, reinstall, check out. if its good cool if not? yup pull engine pull cb, re adjust.....
once you ve done it a few times you get an idea how tight to make the spring the first time..lol but no matter what i did, short of useing the heavy red locktight on the spring nut, IT ALWAYS became lose, and i had to start the proces all over again..
also with your tires and rig, i take your your a basher. though a decent clutch set up for bashing your better off going to a slightly less thight spur gear and be just as far ahead.
If your a Serious Track Racer and know your Poop< GO for it, it will be worth it. other than that, more work than its worth so it takes ALL the advantage out of it. if it were designed to be adjusted without removeing the engine, cb and all, it would be MUCH MUCH MUCH Better.
jm2c
Timmahh
06-03-2006, 08:56 PM
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RE: werks 4 shoes clutch for t maxx 3.3
thanks man i dont track race i just race around my lil tracks i build and just wide open up and down the road (well as far open as i have my trim ) so what ur saying tho is the clutch is really good once it is set up and ready to go the correct way cuz with my tire size and set up its just killing the clutch shoes i even tried alum really big mistake i played heck getting the shoes back off so i eyed up the 4 shoe set up and then sumthing like the vented hpi clutch bell or even the vented robinson clutch bell as far as spur gears go im running the stock one the 54t and just the really wide 44 blazer tires pretty much im just looking for sumthing to hold the power the motor makes and to keep clutch shoes in it so thanks for the lil bit of input ill reread it and see about understanding it a lil better sence i just read it to make sure it stayed true to the topic but if theres ne input for which spring is the best to use or the best spot to set the nut to start at to see how im gonna like it or just ne more helpfull hints i would be greatfull for thanks man
06-03-2006, 11:52 PM
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RE: werks 4 shoes clutch for t maxx 3.3
typically set the nut so the farthest point of the nut is JUST FLUSH with the outside of the front clutch plate.... ( you ll want a thin wall 10mm deep dish socket to put it on) theres 3 other sets of shoes available, i understand the Rubicon shoes are pretty hard...., i just had issues with the nut staying in place and loosening up and not workin correctly or if at all, one time it got loose, and it was nearly WOT befor it would engage. id stay away from it for bashing purposes, look to a 3 shoe clutch with shoes a bit stronger than the carbon ones.. there is a GOLD spring for the werks that is supposed to be a better sping, but i have not used it.
jm3c
Timmahh
jm3c
Timmahh
08-18-2013, 05:21 PM
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have you tryed the three shoe integy clutch it uses the traxxas clutch bell and its only 17 $ works great on my tmaxx with big joes they are 4"wide and6.5"tall aluminum shoes seem to hook up well .I'm running .26 picco maxx wheelies on demand !!
08-19-2013, 02:40 AM
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I was eating clutches up just like that...I switched to aluminum clutches maybe got two extra tanks before they we're chewed up..
Finally I bought the Buku clutch set..I've been through two gallons of fuel with a os.21 and the clutches still look new..I reccomend Buku to anybody who wants clutch life..
Finally I bought the Buku clutch set..I've been through two gallons of fuel with a os.21 and the clutches still look new..I reccomend Buku to anybody who wants clutch life..
