OFFICIAL REVO THREAD- EVERYTHING REVO
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OFFICIAL REVO THREAD- EVERYTHING REVO
OK, I will start an everything Revo thread. 15, 2.5, 2.5r and 3.3, as well as BB. EVERYTHING. It would be great as a hat forum for veterans, and a question posting area for NOOB's, and just to get opinions. I will find stock Revo info, and post it here so everyone can refer to it. Thanks, and let's try to get this going. PLEASE NOTE- All info has come from Traxxas website
TRX 2.5, TRX 2.5R, & TRX 3.3 Racing Engine
Factory Break-In (default) Carburetor Settings:
High-Speed needle
TRX 2.5, TRX 2.5R, and TRX 3.3 Racing Engines:
A good starting point for the high-speed needle
is 4 turns out (counter-clockwise) from closed.
Low-Speed Needle
Notice the thin darker gray area between the low speed needle and the throttle arm. This is actually the other end of the slide valve from inside the carburetor. The low-speed needle is threaded into the slide valve and is set flush (even) with the edge of the slide valve.
Note: This is a good base setting. Adjustments may
need to be made to the low-speed needle for best
performance in your running conditions.
Idle Stop Screw
Idle Gap
The idle stop screw controls the idle speed by preventing the carburetor slide from closing completely. Turn right (clockwise) to increase idle, and left (counter-clockwise) to decrease idle. A good starting point for the slide valve to stop at idle is a 0.7mm-1.0mm gap.
The carburetor is preset at the factory for break-in. The base setting should be right to start and run the engine through the break-in process. However, if you are having trouble getting the engine started or keeping it running, then you may need to readjust the fuel mixture to compensate for factors such as temperature, humidity, and altitude (air density). It is a good idea to bring the tuning card that was attached to the fuel tank with you.
Clearing a Flooded Engine
The engine can become flooded if it is primed too many times during the course of a routine startup. When the engine is flooded, the EZ-Starter cannot turn the engine and it will appear to be locked. Use the following procedure to clear a flooded engine. Clearing the engine is easy by following these steps:
1) Disconnect the blue glow plug wire from the glow plug and take the glow plug out of the engine with the two-way glow plug wrench included in the instruction bag. Disconnect the fuel tubing from the carburetor and plug the fuel tubing with a clean 3mm machine screw. This will keep fuel from running out of the fuel tank and making a mess. If the fuel tubing is not disconnected, then more fuel can make its way into the engine defeating the whole purpose of this procedure.
2) Plug in the EZ-Start 2 controller, tip the truck over on its side and press the red controller button for about 8 to 10 seconds. This should turn the engine over at a very rapid rate spitting out all of the excess raw fuel from the crankcase and combustion chamber of the engine. If there is still fuel coming out of the engine after a 10 second burst then release the button for a few seconds and repeat another 8 to 10 second burst. Repeat this process until all fuel has exited the crankcase.
3) Wipe up the raw fuel from the cooling head with a paper towel and reinstall the glow plug back into the head. Make sure that the little copper glow plug gasket is located correctly onto the glow plug before installation. There is a tapered edge between the threads of the plug and the hex body of the plug. This should match up with the tapered (concave) side of the gasket.
4) Reconnect the blue glow plug wire and place back into the protective slot in the head protector. To get the blue wire back onto the plug securely, it helps to use a pair of needle nose pliers to press the connector down over the plug. Take out the screw that was used to plug the fuel line and reconnect the fuel line to the carburetor. Your engine is now ready to start. Do not try to prime an engine that was just cleared out. There should be plenty of fuel residue inside the engine to start-up. The engine should fire up immediately.
Tuning Your TRX 2.5, 2.5R and 3.3 Engine for Best Performance
The engine's performance depends on the fuel mixture. Turn the mixture needles clockwise to lean the fuel mixture and counterclockwise to richen it. Leaning the fuel mixture will increase engine power up to the engine's mechanical limits. Never run the engine too lean (not enough fuel flow). Never lean the engine until it begins to cut out or stall. Leaning the engine beyond the safe allowable limits will result in poor performance and almost certain engine damage. Indications of an overly lean mixture include:
· Cutting out or sudden loss of power during acceleration.
· Overheating (temperature beyond 270° F at the glow plug)
· Little or no blue smoke coming from the exhaust.
If any of these conditions are present, stop immediately and richen the high speed mixture 1/4 turn. The engine will probably be slightly rich at that setting and you can then retune for performance. Always tune for performance by starting rich and moving leaner toward the ideal setting. Never try to tune from the lean side. There should always be a light stream of blue smoke coming from the exhaust.
Before you begin tuning, the engine should be warmed up to its normal operating temperature and running slightly rich. All final tuning adjustments must be made to the engine at its normal operating temperature. You can tell the engine is running rich by noting any of the following:
· Sluggish acceleration with blue smoke coming from the exhaust
· The vehicle may not shift into second gear (if installed)
· There is unburned fuel spraying from the exhaust tip
· Leaning the high-speed fuel mixture increases performance
Base setting for high-speed needle = four turns out from closed
With the engine warm and running at a rich setting, gradually lean the high-speed fuel mixture in 1/16 turn increments. Make several high-speed passes with the vehicle after each adjustment to clear out the engine and note any change in performance. TRX racing engines are extremely powerful. Remember to apply the throttle gradually to prevent wheelies or loss of control. Continue this procedure until one of the following conditions exist:
1. There is no longer any performance improvement
2. The engine begins to cut out at high speed (Danger!)
3. There is a sudden loss of power during acceleration (Danger!)
4. The engine begins to overheat.
Symptoms of overheating include:
· Steam or smoke coming from the engine (not exhaust)
· Hesitation or stalling during acceleration
· Popping or clattering sound when decelerating(detonation)
· Fluctuating idle speed
Temperature measurement above 270° F at the glow plug If any one of the above conditions occurs, the fuel mixture is already past the maximum safe lean setting. Richen the fuel mixture to the optimum setting by richening the high speed needle at least 1/8 turn counterclockwise and retest. This setting will extend engine component life.
Low-Speed Fuel Mixture Adjustment
Base setting for low speed needle = flush with the grey ring around the low-speed adjustment screw (see pic above)
The low-speed mixture is always set after the high-speed needle is correctly adjusted.The low-speed mixture will be set using the pinch test.
1. Once the engine is warm, do several high-speed runs to confirm that the high-speed needle is set correctly.
2. Bring the vehicle in and pinch closed the fuel line going into the carburetor. The engine should run for two-to-three seconds, speed up, and then die.
3. If the engine runs longer than three seconds, lean the low-speed needle 1/16 turn, make several more high speed runs, and retest.
4. If the engine dies immediately without speeding up, richen the low-speed needle 1/8 turn, make several more high speed runs, and retest.
When the low-speed needle is set correctly, the engine’s throttle response should be very quick, possibly even to the point of making it difficult to keep the vehicle from doing a wheelie when you accelerate!
Idle Speed Adjustment
Base setting for idle stop screw = 0.5mm-1.0mm gap between the slide valve and the inside of the carburetor inlet tract (venturi).
Once the high and low-speed mixtures have been set, reduce the idle speed to the minimum reliable idle speed. Remember, this adjustment should be made while the engine is running at normal operating temperature.
1. Turn the throttle trim on the transmitter so that the brakes are applied. This ensures that the throttle slide is resting against the idle adjustment screw.
2. If necessary, remove the air filter to gain access to the idle adjustment screw.
3. Turn the screw counterclockwise to reduce the idle speed, or clockwise to increase it. The idle speed should be set as low as possible while still maintaining reliable running characteristics.
4. Reset the throttle trim on the transmitter.
Note: If the idle speed is set too high it could prevent the T-Maxx from shifting between forward and reverse. If you experience this, simply reduce the idle speed.
Fine-Tuning the Carburetor
After fine-tuning your TRX engine at the end of the break-in procedure, no major adjustments to the fuel mixture are usually necessary. Make note of the temperature, humidity, and barometric pressure at the time you finished fine tuning your carburetor. Current weather conditions can be found online from national websites, local TV news websites, and Television. This information will be considered your baseline setting.
You may need to adjust your carburetor needles to compensate for changes in temperature and barometric pressure (air density) from day to day. Generally, you’ll need to richen the fuel mixture when the weather is colder than your baseline temperature and the air density is higher. Lean the fuel mixture when weather is warmer than your baseline temperature and the air density is lower. The chart below provides general guidelines on how weather conditions affect air density when they move higher or lower than your baseline setting.
Also, i would like to reccomend getting a 2500mah battery pack or higher for the EZ start, it makes a massive difference in the speed the engine is turned over at, and makes it a hell of alot easier to start the engine.
TRX 2.5, TRX 2.5R, & TRX 3.3 Racing Engine
Factory Break-In (default) Carburetor Settings:
High-Speed needle
TRX 2.5, TRX 2.5R, and TRX 3.3 Racing Engines:
A good starting point for the high-speed needle
is 4 turns out (counter-clockwise) from closed.
Low-Speed Needle
Notice the thin darker gray area between the low speed needle and the throttle arm. This is actually the other end of the slide valve from inside the carburetor. The low-speed needle is threaded into the slide valve and is set flush (even) with the edge of the slide valve.
Note: This is a good base setting. Adjustments may
need to be made to the low-speed needle for best
performance in your running conditions.
Idle Stop Screw
Idle Gap
The idle stop screw controls the idle speed by preventing the carburetor slide from closing completely. Turn right (clockwise) to increase idle, and left (counter-clockwise) to decrease idle. A good starting point for the slide valve to stop at idle is a 0.7mm-1.0mm gap.
The carburetor is preset at the factory for break-in. The base setting should be right to start and run the engine through the break-in process. However, if you are having trouble getting the engine started or keeping it running, then you may need to readjust the fuel mixture to compensate for factors such as temperature, humidity, and altitude (air density). It is a good idea to bring the tuning card that was attached to the fuel tank with you.
Clearing a Flooded Engine
The engine can become flooded if it is primed too many times during the course of a routine startup. When the engine is flooded, the EZ-Starter cannot turn the engine and it will appear to be locked. Use the following procedure to clear a flooded engine. Clearing the engine is easy by following these steps:
1) Disconnect the blue glow plug wire from the glow plug and take the glow plug out of the engine with the two-way glow plug wrench included in the instruction bag. Disconnect the fuel tubing from the carburetor and plug the fuel tubing with a clean 3mm machine screw. This will keep fuel from running out of the fuel tank and making a mess. If the fuel tubing is not disconnected, then more fuel can make its way into the engine defeating the whole purpose of this procedure.
2) Plug in the EZ-Start 2 controller, tip the truck over on its side and press the red controller button for about 8 to 10 seconds. This should turn the engine over at a very rapid rate spitting out all of the excess raw fuel from the crankcase and combustion chamber of the engine. If there is still fuel coming out of the engine after a 10 second burst then release the button for a few seconds and repeat another 8 to 10 second burst. Repeat this process until all fuel has exited the crankcase.
3) Wipe up the raw fuel from the cooling head with a paper towel and reinstall the glow plug back into the head. Make sure that the little copper glow plug gasket is located correctly onto the glow plug before installation. There is a tapered edge between the threads of the plug and the hex body of the plug. This should match up with the tapered (concave) side of the gasket.
4) Reconnect the blue glow plug wire and place back into the protective slot in the head protector. To get the blue wire back onto the plug securely, it helps to use a pair of needle nose pliers to press the connector down over the plug. Take out the screw that was used to plug the fuel line and reconnect the fuel line to the carburetor. Your engine is now ready to start. Do not try to prime an engine that was just cleared out. There should be plenty of fuel residue inside the engine to start-up. The engine should fire up immediately.
Tuning Your TRX 2.5, 2.5R and 3.3 Engine for Best Performance
The engine's performance depends on the fuel mixture. Turn the mixture needles clockwise to lean the fuel mixture and counterclockwise to richen it. Leaning the fuel mixture will increase engine power up to the engine's mechanical limits. Never run the engine too lean (not enough fuel flow). Never lean the engine until it begins to cut out or stall. Leaning the engine beyond the safe allowable limits will result in poor performance and almost certain engine damage. Indications of an overly lean mixture include:
· Cutting out or sudden loss of power during acceleration.
· Overheating (temperature beyond 270° F at the glow plug)
· Little or no blue smoke coming from the exhaust.
If any of these conditions are present, stop immediately and richen the high speed mixture 1/4 turn. The engine will probably be slightly rich at that setting and you can then retune for performance. Always tune for performance by starting rich and moving leaner toward the ideal setting. Never try to tune from the lean side. There should always be a light stream of blue smoke coming from the exhaust.
Before you begin tuning, the engine should be warmed up to its normal operating temperature and running slightly rich. All final tuning adjustments must be made to the engine at its normal operating temperature. You can tell the engine is running rich by noting any of the following:
· Sluggish acceleration with blue smoke coming from the exhaust
· The vehicle may not shift into second gear (if installed)
· There is unburned fuel spraying from the exhaust tip
· Leaning the high-speed fuel mixture increases performance
Base setting for high-speed needle = four turns out from closed
With the engine warm and running at a rich setting, gradually lean the high-speed fuel mixture in 1/16 turn increments. Make several high-speed passes with the vehicle after each adjustment to clear out the engine and note any change in performance. TRX racing engines are extremely powerful. Remember to apply the throttle gradually to prevent wheelies or loss of control. Continue this procedure until one of the following conditions exist:
1. There is no longer any performance improvement
2. The engine begins to cut out at high speed (Danger!)
3. There is a sudden loss of power during acceleration (Danger!)
4. The engine begins to overheat.
Symptoms of overheating include:
· Steam or smoke coming from the engine (not exhaust)
· Hesitation or stalling during acceleration
· Popping or clattering sound when decelerating(detonation)
· Fluctuating idle speed
Temperature measurement above 270° F at the glow plug If any one of the above conditions occurs, the fuel mixture is already past the maximum safe lean setting. Richen the fuel mixture to the optimum setting by richening the high speed needle at least 1/8 turn counterclockwise and retest. This setting will extend engine component life.
Low-Speed Fuel Mixture Adjustment
Base setting for low speed needle = flush with the grey ring around the low-speed adjustment screw (see pic above)
The low-speed mixture is always set after the high-speed needle is correctly adjusted.The low-speed mixture will be set using the pinch test.
1. Once the engine is warm, do several high-speed runs to confirm that the high-speed needle is set correctly.
2. Bring the vehicle in and pinch closed the fuel line going into the carburetor. The engine should run for two-to-three seconds, speed up, and then die.
3. If the engine runs longer than three seconds, lean the low-speed needle 1/16 turn, make several more high speed runs, and retest.
4. If the engine dies immediately without speeding up, richen the low-speed needle 1/8 turn, make several more high speed runs, and retest.
When the low-speed needle is set correctly, the engine’s throttle response should be very quick, possibly even to the point of making it difficult to keep the vehicle from doing a wheelie when you accelerate!
Idle Speed Adjustment
Base setting for idle stop screw = 0.5mm-1.0mm gap between the slide valve and the inside of the carburetor inlet tract (venturi).
Once the high and low-speed mixtures have been set, reduce the idle speed to the minimum reliable idle speed. Remember, this adjustment should be made while the engine is running at normal operating temperature.
1. Turn the throttle trim on the transmitter so that the brakes are applied. This ensures that the throttle slide is resting against the idle adjustment screw.
2. If necessary, remove the air filter to gain access to the idle adjustment screw.
3. Turn the screw counterclockwise to reduce the idle speed, or clockwise to increase it. The idle speed should be set as low as possible while still maintaining reliable running characteristics.
4. Reset the throttle trim on the transmitter.
Note: If the idle speed is set too high it could prevent the T-Maxx from shifting between forward and reverse. If you experience this, simply reduce the idle speed.
Fine-Tuning the Carburetor
After fine-tuning your TRX engine at the end of the break-in procedure, no major adjustments to the fuel mixture are usually necessary. Make note of the temperature, humidity, and barometric pressure at the time you finished fine tuning your carburetor. Current weather conditions can be found online from national websites, local TV news websites, and Television. This information will be considered your baseline setting.
You may need to adjust your carburetor needles to compensate for changes in temperature and barometric pressure (air density) from day to day. Generally, you’ll need to richen the fuel mixture when the weather is colder than your baseline temperature and the air density is higher. Lean the fuel mixture when weather is warmer than your baseline temperature and the air density is lower. The chart below provides general guidelines on how weather conditions affect air density when they move higher or lower than your baseline setting.
Also, i would like to reccomend getting a 2500mah battery pack or higher for the EZ start, it makes a massive difference in the speed the engine is turned over at, and makes it a hell of alot easier to start the engine.
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RE: OFFICIAL REVO THREAD- EVERYTHING REVO
uhh i think there is a post like this already? i think its the post all your revo pics but people ask questions on it.
#3
RE: OFFICIAL REVO THREAD- EVERYTHING REVO
Replace the stock shock oil asap!!!! Go to 50-80. Stock sux!!! And if your tranny starts to click forward and backwards. and revese is messed up get the FOC and dont look back. Hope that helps anyone who needs it.
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RE: OFFICIAL REVO THREAD- EVERYTHING REVO
Good first post for this thread NITROHOLICS ANONYMOUS, that should help with most problems new revo owners will encounter. I suggest going ahead and start planning on getting some new servos mine lasted 2 weeks at the most and maybe look into going to the single servo setup for steering and buy a few extra glow plugs most people new to nitro will need them just my opinion.
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RE: OFFICIAL REVO THREAD- EVERYTHING REVO
Thanks Hillfinger there is alot of info on the Revo, but sometimes it takes hours to find it, and in my opinion the RCU search engine is really *****. I will put this thread in my favourites so if it does die I will re-post it when neccesary(When the Traxxas forum is clogged with newbi q's). i hope that this thread will stay alive though because I know I will find it very useful. Also, I reccomend cutting a cooling hole in the stock body, and to be careful about tuning, but still be confident (If that makes sense). Also NEVER FORGET THAT THE RC HOBBY IS ALL ABOUT HAVING FUN!
#6
RE: OFFICIAL REVO THREAD- EVERYTHING REVO
ORIGINAL: NITROHOLICS ANONYMOUS
NEVER FORGET THAT THE RC HOBBY IS ALL ABOUT HAVING FUN!
NEVER FORGET THAT THE RC HOBBY IS ALL ABOUT HAVING FUN!
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RE: OFFICIAL REVO THREAD- EVERYTHING REVO
hey So Cal Nitro Basher, you said switched to 50w in the front and 80w in the back? is that what you meant? what is the stock wieght anyway?
whatsa good shock setup for loose dirt thats slightly bumpy
whatsa good shock setup for loose dirt thats slightly bumpy
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RE: OFFICIAL REVO THREAD- EVERYTHING REVO
ORIGINAL: NITROHOLICS ANONYMOUS
i THINK the stock shock oil is 60wt, but i'm probably wrong.
i THINK the stock shock oil is 60wt, but i'm probably wrong.
I was thinking it may be 35wt. I may be wrong though.
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RE: OFFICIAL REVO THREAD- EVERYTHING REVO
i use 60 WT oil and the LT springs that come with the truck, and in my opinion these settings are way to hard, even small bumps send it in a differant direction it is great for large jumps (12 footand over) but for general use, much to hard, i'll be trying 45 WT oil with green prings in front and tan in back once i get the revo going again.
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RE: OFFICIAL REVO THREAD- EVERYTHING REVO
I'm running the included long travel springs, and stock oil. I might change soo, but it seems to be fine for me so far.
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RE: OFFICIAL REVO THREAD- EVERYTHING REVO
when i installed the 323 i had to go 80wt in the back and 60wt in the front with the offset rims,i love the way it handles,besides those little changes the suspension is stock....
#16
RE: OFFICIAL REVO THREAD- EVERYTHING REVO
ORIGINAL: Danju
hey So Cal Nitro Basher, you said switched to 50w in the front and 80w in the back? is that what you meant? what is the stock wieght anyway?
whatsa good shock setup for loose dirt thats slightly bumpy
hey So Cal Nitro Basher, you said switched to 50w in the front and 80w in the back? is that what you meant? what is the stock wieght anyway?
whatsa good shock setup for loose dirt thats slightly bumpy
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RE: OFFICIAL REVO THREAD- EVERYTHING REVO
So, let's get some action/poser pics happening. does anyone have a good revo bashing vid? This pic isn't recent, but i will take some soon.
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RE: OFFICIAL REVO THREAD- EVERYTHING REVO
heres an old pic:
some of you may have seen my videos but ill repost them agiain
[link=http://rcuvideos.com/item/GTGF4CFHT820KQY8]flip[/link]
[link=http://rcuvideos.com/item/CB2FF6NWZ2L4NY2H]worst video ive every made[/link]
[link=http://rcuvideos.com/item/6SPFY6JLQZVXNBHG]driving[/link]
[link=http://rcuvideos.com/item/L38VHXNVX39DN54V]high speed[/link]
therse some more you can take a look at.......
some of you may have seen my videos but ill repost them agiain
[link=http://rcuvideos.com/item/GTGF4CFHT820KQY8]flip[/link]
[link=http://rcuvideos.com/item/CB2FF6NWZ2L4NY2H]worst video ive every made[/link]
[link=http://rcuvideos.com/item/6SPFY6JLQZVXNBHG]driving[/link]
[link=http://rcuvideos.com/item/L38VHXNVX39DN54V]high speed[/link]
therse some more you can take a look at.......
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RE: OFFICIAL REVO THREAD- EVERYTHING REVO
in that last pic i cannot see wires for the ez start? whats up with that? How much was the roolcage, and do you like/reccomend it? I'm off to work now (Underwater ceramics technician. aka Dishwasher at mum's cafe) I'll be back on later
#23
RE: OFFICIAL REVO THREAD- EVERYTHING REVO
The e-z start isnt so e-z any more. The female end on the little want thingy that you use to start it got all messed up, so instead of spending 15 bux on a new one i just ripped all the wires off(not literally ripped but just removed) and took the tamya end off my stick pack and touch the two battery ends to the motor, i have a glow igniter for my x-cellerator so i just use that to ignite the glow plug and blam! Im runnun' my revo. As for the cage they are 70 bux. But i got mine on sale for 40. if i hadnt found it on sale i still would have bought it. It gets the car a little more dirty with no body but who cares its a monster truck. Also i go through a body a month so i saved money in the long run. I put in a FOC in it, not a huge power gain but a little more bottom end grunt. I also installed a close ratio gear kit, that gives it alot of bottom end and gets it up to top speed very guickly. As for suspention i have 80 wt shock oil front and rear, and LT springs. The sprttraxx tires work wonders in the dirt, pro line bow ties are better but i traded a xtm .18 starter shaft for them, who could beat that? As for radio gear its stock. I plan on going to single steering servos and a better radio system. LOL i got asked about my cage and starter and went onm about the whole truck. oh well now theres not as many questions to be asked. Enjoy.
Aaron
Aaron
#25
RE: OFFICIAL REVO THREAD- EVERYTHING REVO
ORIGINAL: tcovely
THANK YOU GUYS FOR ALL THE HELP GETTING STARTED HERE! THIS IS ONE AWESOME PLACE!!!!!!!!!!!!!
THANK YOU GUYS FOR ALL THE HELP GETTING STARTED HERE! THIS IS ONE AWESOME PLACE!!!!!!!!!!!!!