Making a "Bullet Proof" Revo, HELP?
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Making a "Bullet Proof" Revo, HELP?
Hey guys, I picked up a used revo, good shape, runs good and just had to change the exhaust manifold. Now that its up and going, I am having problems deciding on what to do next.
I DONT RACE THIS! HAVE NO INTENTION OR DESIRE TOO, ITS A TOY,LOL!
Ok here is what I do with it. Being I live in Missouri, outside Potossi is probably the largest 4x4 trail country in the US, mostly red gravel trails. Mostly pea gravel with occasional larger rocks but you get the point and pretty well packed. A LOT of climbing, mild jumping and just tearing around. I have the gear ratios, tires on 23mm hubs, and shocks set to what I need. I NEED GUIDANCE ON WHAT AND WHERE TO BUY PARTS TO MAKE THE DRIVE LINE AS TOUGH AS CAN BE! Where I run is almost 2 hrs from home so I am trying to avoid Day Ending Issues.
I CANT FIND A PLACE THAT CARRIES ALL THE DRIVE SHAFTS, CVS AND SO ON IN ONE PLACE EXCEPT THE TOP OF THE LINE STUFF. TRYING TO AVOID THAT AS ITS A TOY, DONT WANT TO DROP $1000 INTO IT JUST TO TOUGHEN IT UP.
These are my plans, tell me if they are good, bad, or you have better advise:
Aluminum Steering Block/Axle Carriers
Metal CVs and Driveshafts and Hubs
Aluminum Skid Plates
Metal and/or Delrin gears (If I can find everything)
Aluminum Bumpers (More to protect the body and for what I need, the bumpers just kinda fit for the style)
Upgrade the Tow and Camber links.
Aluminum Shock Mounts (to be on the safer side)
Rear Brakes Kit (came with the truck when I got it, but haven't installed it, I know its a must though after driving this a few times already)
Will probably make my own roll cage, thats childs play compared to my previous career.
Last question, how much can you increase ride height without putting access strain on parts and at that, HOW IN THE HECK DO YOU GET THE RIDE HEIGHT UP MORE? Stiffer Springs and long travel arms installed and set the best that can be done.
I am not a complete rookie as I had to set the motor up and everything else to what I need, but I am not a racer or lifetime RCer (started and will be for the rest of my life, but only in a couple years with almost everything revolving around Helis)
Ok, now any direction, advise, just HELP in any form Please. Thnx Guys
I DONT RACE THIS! HAVE NO INTENTION OR DESIRE TOO, ITS A TOY,LOL!
Ok here is what I do with it. Being I live in Missouri, outside Potossi is probably the largest 4x4 trail country in the US, mostly red gravel trails. Mostly pea gravel with occasional larger rocks but you get the point and pretty well packed. A LOT of climbing, mild jumping and just tearing around. I have the gear ratios, tires on 23mm hubs, and shocks set to what I need. I NEED GUIDANCE ON WHAT AND WHERE TO BUY PARTS TO MAKE THE DRIVE LINE AS TOUGH AS CAN BE! Where I run is almost 2 hrs from home so I am trying to avoid Day Ending Issues.
I CANT FIND A PLACE THAT CARRIES ALL THE DRIVE SHAFTS, CVS AND SO ON IN ONE PLACE EXCEPT THE TOP OF THE LINE STUFF. TRYING TO AVOID THAT AS ITS A TOY, DONT WANT TO DROP $1000 INTO IT JUST TO TOUGHEN IT UP.
These are my plans, tell me if they are good, bad, or you have better advise:
Aluminum Steering Block/Axle Carriers
Metal CVs and Driveshafts and Hubs
Aluminum Skid Plates
Metal and/or Delrin gears (If I can find everything)
Aluminum Bumpers (More to protect the body and for what I need, the bumpers just kinda fit for the style)
Upgrade the Tow and Camber links.
Aluminum Shock Mounts (to be on the safer side)
Rear Brakes Kit (came with the truck when I got it, but haven't installed it, I know its a must though after driving this a few times already)
Will probably make my own roll cage, thats childs play compared to my previous career.
Last question, how much can you increase ride height without putting access strain on parts and at that, HOW IN THE HECK DO YOU GET THE RIDE HEIGHT UP MORE? Stiffer Springs and long travel arms installed and set the best that can be done.
I am not a complete rookie as I had to set the motor up and everything else to what I need, but I am not a racer or lifetime RCer (started and will be for the rest of my life, but only in a couple years with almost everything revolving around Helis)
Ok, now any direction, advise, just HELP in any form Please. Thnx Guys
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RE: Making a "Bullet Proof" Revo, HELP?
im guessing your running the stock motor. you dont need to upgrade the driveline to all metal stuff. it would actually be really stupid. the stock driveline can handle the power fine. stay away from aluminum because unlike plastic aluminum bends and stays bent. plastic bends then goes right back to where it was. although it does crack and break. its way cheaper then aluminum and it doesnt put strain on your other parts. get everything that is offered by RPM for the revo. a great basher would conist of RPM a arms, roll cage, RPM axle carriers and traxxas titanium shocks. although the motto, "dont fix it if it aint broken" is a great way to go. i wouldnt mess with it untill its broken. if you have the money and dont care then just do those few little things. also search through the forums and you will see how many people stay away from aluminum. and again, stock plastic gears and driveline will do great with the stock engine. if you have a very powerfull engine then thats when you want to upgrade the driveline.
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RE: Making a "Bullet Proof" Revo, HELP?
These are my plans, tell me if they are good, bad, or you have better advise:
Aluminum Steering Block/Axle Carriers ------ Yes as this is a weak point .
Metal CVs and Driveshafts and Hubs ----Not REALLY needed IMO but they are stronger than stock .
Aluminum Skid Plates ------- Not REALLY needed the plastic ones are tough enough .
Metal and/or Delrin gears (If I can find everything) -----THIS is where you need to spend the money , a set of Robinson Racing steel gears will make the tranny bullitproof .
Aluminum Bumpers (More to protect the body and for what I need, the bumpers just kinda fit for the style) ----- These are a waste of money IMO . First big hit and they are toast . Again the plastic ones are strong enough , though RPM makes a bumper set for the REVO .
Upgrade the Tow and Camber links. ---- Yes , if you want the strongest/best get Lunsford Punishers .
Aluminum Shock Mounts (to be on the safer side) --- Not needed IMO , BUT Aluminum shock eyes are a good idea . Racers Edge makes decent ones .
Rear Brakes Kit (came with the truck when I got it, but haven't installed it, I know its a must though after driving this a few times already) ---Does it have a center differential in it ? If it does then you must run the rear brake kit or only the front wheels get any stopping power .
Aluminum Steering Block/Axle Carriers ------ Yes as this is a weak point .
Metal CVs and Driveshafts and Hubs ----Not REALLY needed IMO but they are stronger than stock .
Aluminum Skid Plates ------- Not REALLY needed the plastic ones are tough enough .
Metal and/or Delrin gears (If I can find everything) -----THIS is where you need to spend the money , a set of Robinson Racing steel gears will make the tranny bullitproof .
Aluminum Bumpers (More to protect the body and for what I need, the bumpers just kinda fit for the style) ----- These are a waste of money IMO . First big hit and they are toast . Again the plastic ones are strong enough , though RPM makes a bumper set for the REVO .
Upgrade the Tow and Camber links. ---- Yes , if you want the strongest/best get Lunsford Punishers .
Aluminum Shock Mounts (to be on the safer side) --- Not needed IMO , BUT Aluminum shock eyes are a good idea . Racers Edge makes decent ones .
Rear Brakes Kit (came with the truck when I got it, but haven't installed it, I know its a must though after driving this a few times already) ---Does it have a center differential in it ? If it does then you must run the rear brake kit or only the front wheels get any stopping power .
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RE: Making a "Bullet Proof" Revo, HELP?
---Does it have a center differential in it ? If it does then you must run the rear brake kit or only the front wheels get any stopping power .---
Yeah I have the whole kit, diff and all. Now something to put some rear brakes on this thing wouldn't seem bad, but is it really needed? Thnx for the other advise
Yeah I have the whole kit, diff and all. Now something to put some rear brakes on this thing wouldn't seem bad, but is it really needed? Thnx for the other advise
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RE: Making a "Bullet Proof" Revo, HELP?
ORIGINAL: snoking16
im guessing your running the stock motor. you dont need to upgrade the driveline to all metal stuff. it would actually be really stupid. the stock driveline can handle the power fine. stay away from aluminum because unlike plastic aluminum bends and stays bent. plastic bends then goes right back to where it was. although it does crack and break. its way cheaper then aluminum and it doesnt put strain on your other parts. get everything that is offered by RPM for the revo. a great basher would conist of RPM a arms, roll cage, RPM axle carriers and traxxas titanium shocks. although the motto, "dont fix it if it aint broken" is a great way to go. i wouldnt mess with it untill its broken. if you have the money and dont care then just do those few little things. also search through the forums and you will see how many people stay away from aluminum. and again, stock plastic gears and driveline will do great with the stock engine. if you have a very powerfull engine then thats when you want to upgrade the driveline.
im guessing your running the stock motor. you dont need to upgrade the driveline to all metal stuff. it would actually be really stupid. the stock driveline can handle the power fine. stay away from aluminum because unlike plastic aluminum bends and stays bent. plastic bends then goes right back to where it was. although it does crack and break. its way cheaper then aluminum and it doesnt put strain on your other parts. get everything that is offered by RPM for the revo. a great basher would conist of RPM a arms, roll cage, RPM axle carriers and traxxas titanium shocks. although the motto, "dont fix it if it aint broken" is a great way to go. i wouldnt mess with it untill its broken. if you have the money and dont care then just do those few little things. also search through the forums and you will see how many people stay away from aluminum. and again, stock plastic gears and driveline will do great with the stock engine. if you have a very powerfull engine then thats when you want to upgrade the driveline.
Yeah I have the stock motor. I read some of the stuff on the RPM parts, just wasnt sure the way to go, figured Aluminum would be best, but apparently not always the case. Now the last thing that worries me is something I saw happen to my friends last weekend on our first time out. Each has an emaxx, then both have t-maxx's a 1.5 pro on one and the 2.5 on the other. I saw the inner hub for the u-joint blow part on 2 of them, 1 emaxx and one t maxx. Is that just a wear and tear issue or is that a week point? As for the other advise on RPM stuff, THANKS, SAVES ME A TON OF MONEY, AND HEADACHES!!! LOL. Going that route now, who has everything in one place so i can just go nuts? Again thanks
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RE: Making a "Bullet Proof" Revo, HELP?
Ok I found where to buy all the RPM stuff with good prices as long as shipping cost and time isnt insane, R/C planet, are they good?
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RE: Making a "Bullet Proof" Revo, HELP?
Ok I found where to buy all the RPM stuff with good prices as long as shipping cost and time isnt insane, R/C planet, are they good?
They have ALOT of parts for the REVO also . Here is a link [link=http://www.killerhobbies.com/]KILLER HOBBIES[/link]
If you have the center diff installed then yes your gonna need the rear brake .
#10
RE: Making a "Bullet Proof" Revo, HELP?
I would get a Roto-Start, because the wires and big ez-start motor is ugly and bulky. You can pick one up for ~$45 on eBay and thats with backplate and roto-start system. I would also get some aluminum shock rod ends. I like Racers Edge ones. I would also get the Foward only conversion, it makes things more solid, gets rid of wires, and just looks nicer.
So heres a list:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Roto-Start-for-T...QQcmdZViewItem
http://www.smfstore.com/product_info...roducts_id=386
http://cgi.ebay.com/TRAXXAS-5394X-FW...QQcmdZViewItem
You may also want a 14mm hex wrench and a glow plug wrench
http://www.smfstore.com/product_info...oducts_id=1359
I can't seem to find a hex wrench but the stock one is very brittle.
So heres a list:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Roto-Start-for-T...QQcmdZViewItem
http://www.smfstore.com/product_info...roducts_id=386
http://cgi.ebay.com/TRAXXAS-5394X-FW...QQcmdZViewItem
You may also want a 14mm hex wrench and a glow plug wrench
http://www.smfstore.com/product_info...oducts_id=1359
I can't seem to find a hex wrench but the stock one is very brittle.
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RE: Making a "Bullet Proof" Revo, HELP?
I like my EZ Start, works well, and with a body on you dont see anything anyways. I have read alot about the foward only kit, and for what I do, I need reverse. And after looking everything over on this, it is plenty stout enough to be able to keep everything in the drive train stock as I was advised earlier in this thread. If you are keeping the stock motor, I checked on the first 2 replies I got by going to other threads, and they are matching that if it comes to a toy like what I am doing. If your going to race the thing, then i could see forward only, if its for just playing around, you'll hate not having reverse.
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RE: Making a "Bullet Proof" Revo, HELP?
Impakt Rc is a good place to buy Revo parts. Check out they're [link=http://www.impaktrc.com/product_info.php?cPath=67&products_id=440]RPM Revo bundle[/link] it is all the parts you'll need from RPM and it saves you about $11.
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RE: Making a "Bullet Proof" Revo, HELP?
I went with RC planet to give them a shot as they have EVERYTHING needed and I liked the Hum-Vee body they had so i could finish off the look to match what we do with these. Thanks for all the help, I will throw some pics up when the parts get here.
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RE: Making a "Bullet Proof" Revo, HELP?
Thanks for the help, parts here and installed, NICE. And with what I have done for abody and the "mod" I did t the proline wing it came with, looks even better
I read your signature, this thing a basher, racing just isnt my thing. I think mine could hang with a Savage pretty easy, or just run it over,lol.
ORIGINAL: Redrawker
Impakt Rc is a good place to buy Revo parts. Check out they're [link=http://www.impaktrc.com/product_info.php?cPath=67&products_id=440]RPM Revo bundle[/link] it is all the parts you'll need from RPM and it saves you about $11.
Impakt Rc is a good place to buy Revo parts. Check out they're [link=http://www.impaktrc.com/product_info.php?cPath=67&products_id=440]RPM Revo bundle[/link] it is all the parts you'll need from RPM and it saves you about $11.
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RE: Making a "Bullet Proof" Revo, HELP?
so far your doing good if you got all the RPM stuff. your going to have a lot of fun with this truck. if your wanting to do some pretty big jumps i would upgrade the the traxxas anodized shocks. their MSRP is like $80 but i got a full set brand new on ebay for $45. ebay is where i get all my stuff. i always get brand new and they have any stock part you need as well as a ton of aftermarket stuff. and its always cheap. i got my RB 523 for $258, which is the cheapest i have ever seen it.
if all your doing is bashing and dont need to go 45 MPH all the time i would suggest getting a spur gear with a small tooth number. you would get more wheelies and better acceleration. i found with my stock 3.3 that i never really had the chance to really pin it. it was all about short burst of acceleration...just something to think about. spur gears are cheap anyways.
if all your doing is bashing and dont need to go 45 MPH all the time i would suggest getting a spur gear with a small tooth number. you would get more wheelies and better acceleration. i found with my stock 3.3 that i never really had the chance to really pin it. it was all about short burst of acceleration...just something to think about. spur gears are cheap anyways.
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RE: Making a "Bullet Proof" Revo, HELP?
ORIGINAL: lax195
Sure Fire .32. Rigged up a custom linkage setup.
ORIGINAL: caseyw10
what engine is that?
what engine is that?
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RE: Making a "Bullet Proof" Revo, HELP?
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RE: Making a "Bullet Proof" Revo, HELP?
snoking is wrong lowering spur gear teeth gives you more top end.
more spur teeth and less on clutch bell = more torque
more cb teeth and less spur = more speed
more spur teeth and less on clutch bell = more torque
more cb teeth and less spur = more speed
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RE: Making a "Bullet Proof" Revo, HELP?
Bullit proof! Shed a lot of weight. RPM A-Arms robinson steel spur and clutchbell set genisis header and move the pipe to the side. RD Logics Diff cups and diff housings. 200oz metal gear steering servo and a senter diff. Dont forget your 250cc tank! Oh Yah! Dont hit anything.