4 degrees caster.
2 to 5 degrees camber.
1 to 2 degrees toe IN .
Caster is usually factory set and isnt a huge problem on rear.
2 to 3 degrees camber.
1 degree toe in.
These are the settings l used to run on the on road 1/10 nitro comp down south in vic a few years ago.
When l left wodonga, it was a relitively new track, l held the lap record, that was about 5ish years ago.
l ran a dodge viper [ kyosho ] belts, no shafts, knee shakingly fast around a track, slightly larger diametre tyres, same width, stiffer suspention, front n rear stabilizers/sway bars, all the toe and camber settings above, and that thing gripped like no other car out there, lm no state champion driver, and l did not win on the day, but l left with a lap record...
Tyres must be in good nick, suspention must be low ride and firm, stabilisers help alot, they act as if the chassis has a little more flex, helping grip.
Truck must not sit when not running with nose up, it should have a good firm stance.With nose and rear level or nose slightly lower than rear.
All the camber and toe in the world wont help unless you get it ALL right in the set up.
Experiment with thiner wheels, you might be suprised, cheezcutters as there known, try a slightly slimmer wheel on the front, the front end isnt very heavy, it dont need huge tyres for grip, chech your wheel alignment too, dont go to slim, you loose launching power, theres a million different things that effect handling, you really need to experiment and find what suits YOUR car best.
have mc fun n at.