Davis Diesel 3.3 T-Maxx ******SUCCESS**** Answer on page 3
03-28-2008, 05:26 PM
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Davis Diesel 3.3 T-Maxx ******SUCCESS**** Answer on page 3
This is a transplant of a thread I made on another forum, and I am moving it here, for safe keeping, and to be viewed by a more open minded population.
What we have here is a Dieselized Traxxas T-Maxx 3.3
The block and crank are stock, and the connecting rod is upgraded as well as the cylinder head.
This is a compression ignition engine, it runs on a mixture of kerosene, ether, and a blend of synthetic and castor type lubricants.
There are no glow plugs.
Fuel cannot be purchased "at the pump," and needs to be pre-blended.
Here is the new cylinder head:
"""" The new con rod.
Stock TRX 3.3:
Cheezy Start off:
Nitro Head off:
Stock piston/rod:
Davis rod next to TRX rod:
DDD rod installed in stock piston:
Piston/rod in block:
Head bolted up:
What we have here is a Dieselized Traxxas T-Maxx 3.3
The block and crank are stock, and the connecting rod is upgraded as well as the cylinder head.
This is a compression ignition engine, it runs on a mixture of kerosene, ether, and a blend of synthetic and castor type lubricants.
There are no glow plugs.
Fuel cannot be purchased "at the pump," and needs to be pre-blended.
Here is the new cylinder head:
"""" The new con rod.
Stock TRX 3.3:
Cheezy Start off:
Nitro Head off:
Stock piston/rod:
Davis rod next to TRX rod:
DDD rod installed in stock piston:
Piston/rod in block:
Head bolted up:
03-28-2008, 05:27 PM
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RE: Davis Diesel 3.3 T-Maxx
Originally Posted by 91gti_wolfsburg
Cont'd:
Another view:
Cheezy start bolted back up:
Back in the truck:
New sticker:
Side view:
Another view:
Cheezy start bolted back up:
Back in the truck:
New sticker:
Side view:
03-28-2008, 05:31 PM
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RE: Davis Diesel 3.3 T-Maxx
Diesels run leaner than nitro. Mine is running leaner, but only 3 turns out on the HSN because of the temp.
The DD head does come with instructions for tuning, but they can be vague.
The LSN is the last thing that you adjust.
Also, your idle screw ssetting will be totally different from your nitro idle setting, which will also throw your LSN off.
Compression is your timing advance.
Mine in this weather likes to be all the way compressed.
If while running at medium throttle you gun it and it stalls or pre-detonates, you need to back the compression off a squanch.
Starting:
Is a pain.
You will need to get a shaft start for your diesel.
Recoil doesnt cut it.
EZ start will burn up.
Starting easily:
Apply heat to the cylinder head with a hairdryer for a few minutes.
Remove the exhaust pressure line and open the throttle and blow gently into the fuel tank for about 2 seconds. You are priming the engine.
After the engine is primed, it should start easily with the throttle only cracked open. It WILL NOT start at full throttle.
EDIT:
The diesel needs well over a minute of idle time to heat soak the head before you can tune it.
There is no "target heat setting" for the diesel as they almost will never overheat. In fact, the hotter they run, the better.
The cylinder head has more than enough surface area for heat dissipation.
I have actually had to insulate mine from the wind to get it above 212F.
Oh, yes.
If i have forgotten anything, I will add it later.
The DD head does come with instructions for tuning, but they can be vague.
The LSN is the last thing that you adjust.
Also, your idle screw ssetting will be totally different from your nitro idle setting, which will also throw your LSN off.
Compression is your timing advance.
Mine in this weather likes to be all the way compressed.
If while running at medium throttle you gun it and it stalls or pre-detonates, you need to back the compression off a squanch.
Starting:
Is a pain.
You will need to get a shaft start for your diesel.
Recoil doesnt cut it.
EZ start will burn up.
Starting easily:
Apply heat to the cylinder head with a hairdryer for a few minutes.
Remove the exhaust pressure line and open the throttle and blow gently into the fuel tank for about 2 seconds. You are priming the engine.
After the engine is primed, it should start easily with the throttle only cracked open. It WILL NOT start at full throttle.
EDIT:
The diesel needs well over a minute of idle time to heat soak the head before you can tune it.
There is no "target heat setting" for the diesel as they almost will never overheat. In fact, the hotter they run, the better.
The cylinder head has more than enough surface area for heat dissipation.
I have actually had to insulate mine from the wind to get it above 212F.
Oh, yes.
If i have forgotten anything, I will add it later.
03-28-2008, 05:38 PM
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RE: Davis Diesel 3.3 T-Maxx
This is not pump diesel, it is a blend of Kerosene, Ether, Cetane booster, and a blend of synthetic and traditional oil.
03-28-2008, 05:42 PM
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RE: Davis Diesel 3.3 T-Maxx
Vid please!!!!!!!!
I ahve a new 3.3 yet to be installed and would like as much info on this deisel setup as possible. What are the benefits of running this fuel and setup? More torque? Longer life? Please get a vid!!!!!!!!!!
I ahve a new 3.3 yet to be installed and would like as much info on this deisel setup as possible. What are the benefits of running this fuel and setup? More torque? Longer life? Please get a vid!!!!!!!!!!
03-28-2008, 05:46 PM
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RE: Davis Diesel 3.3 T-Maxx
ORIGINAL: FISH KILLA
Vid please!!!!!!!!
I ahve a new 3.3 yet to be installed and would like as much info on this deisel setup as possible. What are the benefits of running this fuel and setup? More torque? Longer life? Please get a vid!!!!!!!!!!
Vid please!!!!!!!!
I ahve a new 3.3 yet to be installed and would like as much info on this deisel setup as possible. What are the benefits of running this fuel and setup? More torque? Longer life? Please get a vid!!!!!!!!!!
03-28-2008, 05:48 PM
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RE: Davis Diesel 3.3 T-Maxx
ORIGINAL: FISH KILLA
Vid please!!!!!!!!
I ahve a new 3.3 yet to be installed and would like as much info on this deisel setup as possible. What are the benefits of running this fuel and setup? More torque? Longer life? Please get a vid!!!!!!!!!!
Vid please!!!!!!!!
I ahve a new 3.3 yet to be installed and would like as much info on this deisel setup as possible. What are the benefits of running this fuel and setup? More torque? Longer life? Please get a vid!!!!!!!!!!
Frankly, it is too darn cold up here. These little oil burners are kinda picky with heat.
I cant get it to rev like it should.
It isnt warm enough, and I think I still have an air leak.
As soon as I get it running right, I will get a camera operator and post vids.
The claim to fame is,
Same as stock RPM Redline,
More than 2x the torque as nitro,
much better fuel economy, 2x the run time per tank.
Longevity is improved due to the added strength of the internals, and because the fuel itself is a lubricant, or at least more so than nitro, and also burns much cooler.
We'll see how it goes.
03-29-2008, 02:10 AM
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RE: Davis Diesel 3.3 T-Maxx
I will keep this up to date, I have subscribed to it.
The conversion for the traxxas engine is expensive because of the added cost of a beefy connecting rod.
It runs around $200 to convert a $150 TRX 3.3 to diesel.
Other engines are cheaper to convert, especially the OS .18, I think that one runs about $130.
This is still in the experiment phase for me. I am still working bugs out of the system.
The conversion for the traxxas engine is expensive because of the added cost of a beefy connecting rod.
It runs around $200 to convert a $150 TRX 3.3 to diesel.
Other engines are cheaper to convert, especially the OS .18, I think that one runs about $130.
This is still in the experiment phase for me. I am still working bugs out of the system.
03-29-2008, 08:18 AM
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RE: Davis Diesel 3.3 T-Maxx
ORIGINAL: rchotrodz
ok I have a dumb question since there are no glow plugs all yo uhave to do is crank the motor over and it starts?[sm=confused.gif]
ok I have a dumb question since there are no glow plugs all yo uhave to do is crank the motor over and it starts?[sm=confused.gif]
There is a LOT of cranking involved, but thats about it.
Preheating the cylinder head with a hair dryer helps to make starting a bit faster in my climate.
The ether portion of the fuel is so unstable and burns at such a low temperature that it spontaneously burns when it is compressed.
When the ether catches, it transfers the fire to the kerosene and bang. The cycle starts over again.
03-29-2008, 01:17 PM
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RE: Davis Diesel 3.3 T-Maxx
I'm hoping to do the same thing with an OS .18tm. 91 is right on the price, Davis Diesel quoted me a price of $129.95 + SH for the .18 head. I'm about a month away from giving it a whirl myself so I'm following 91's thread with great interest. [8D]
Just wish his weather would warm up LOL
One last question,,,,, Does the exhaust smell like diesel ???
Just wish his weather would warm up LOL
One last question,,,,, Does the exhaust smell like diesel ???
03-29-2008, 01:33 PM
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RE: Davis Diesel 3.3 T-Maxx
Sucks you had to move from the Traxxas boards. They truely are a nazi breed over there. Good to see it's coming along for you.
You're more than welcome to post over at www.bitpimps.lixlink.com or www.bannedrc.com We'd love to watch your progress with this.
I'll keep stopping by to see how it's going. Good luck and kudos to you.
silla
You're more than welcome to post over at www.bitpimps.lixlink.com or www.bannedrc.com We'd love to watch your progress with this.
I'll keep stopping by to see how it's going. Good luck and kudos to you.
silla
03-29-2008, 02:42 PM
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RE: Davis Diesel 3.3 T-Maxx
ORIGINAL: 91gti_wolfsburg
Diesels run leaner than nitro. Mine is running leaner, but only 3 turns out on the HSN because of the temp.
The DD head does come with instructions for tuning, but they can be vague.
The LSN is the last thing that you adjust.
Also, your idle screw ssetting will be totally different from your nitro idle setting, which will also throw your LSN off.
Compression is your timing advance.
Mine in this weather likes to be all the way compressed.
If while running at medium throttle you gun it and it stalls or pre-detonates, you need to back the compression off a squanch.
Starting:
Is a pain.
You will need to get a shaft start for your diesel.
Recoil doesnt cut it.
EZ start will burn up.
Starting easily:
Apply heat to the cylinder head with a hairdryer for a few minutes.
Remove the exhaust pressure line and open the throttle and blow gently into the fuel tank for about 2 seconds. You are priming the engine.
After the engine is primed, it should start easily with the throttle only cracked open. It WILL NOT start at full throttle.
EDIT:
The diesel needs well over a minute of idle time to heat soak the head before you can tune it.
There is no "target heat setting" for the diesel as they almost will never overheat. In fact, the hotter they run, the better.
The cylinder head has more than enough surface area for heat dissipation.
I have actually had to insulate mine from the wind to get it above 212F.
Oh, yes.
If i have forgotten anything, I will add it later.
Diesels run leaner than nitro. Mine is running leaner, but only 3 turns out on the HSN because of the temp.
The DD head does come with instructions for tuning, but they can be vague.
The LSN is the last thing that you adjust.
Also, your idle screw ssetting will be totally different from your nitro idle setting, which will also throw your LSN off.
Compression is your timing advance.
Mine in this weather likes to be all the way compressed.
If while running at medium throttle you gun it and it stalls or pre-detonates, you need to back the compression off a squanch.
Starting:
Is a pain.
You will need to get a shaft start for your diesel.
Recoil doesnt cut it.
EZ start will burn up.
Starting easily:
Apply heat to the cylinder head with a hairdryer for a few minutes.
Remove the exhaust pressure line and open the throttle and blow gently into the fuel tank for about 2 seconds. You are priming the engine.
After the engine is primed, it should start easily with the throttle only cracked open. It WILL NOT start at full throttle.
EDIT:
The diesel needs well over a minute of idle time to heat soak the head before you can tune it.
There is no "target heat setting" for the diesel as they almost will never overheat. In fact, the hotter they run, the better.
The cylinder head has more than enough surface area for heat dissipation.
I have actually had to insulate mine from the wind to get it above 212F.
Oh, yes.
If i have forgotten anything, I will add it later.
l like that you are honest about this and all its querks, congrats on that conversion, lve been looking into em here, but being in australia we get limited everything, so hard to get, and fuel, still very good to see honest people surrounding this product.
03-29-2008, 03:39 PM
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RE: Davis Diesel 3.3 T-Maxx
ORIGINAL: payaso
Sucks you had to move from the Traxxas boards. They truely are a nazi breed over there. Good to see it's coming along for you.
You're more than welcome to post over at www.bitpimps.lixlink.com or www.bannedrc.com We'd love to watch your progress with this.
I'll keep stopping by to see how it's going. Good luck and kudos to you.
silla
Sucks you had to move from the Traxxas boards. They truely are a nazi breed over there. Good to see it's coming along for you.
You're more than welcome to post over at www.bitpimps.lixlink.com or www.bannedrc.com We'd love to watch your progress with this.
I'll keep stopping by to see how it's going. Good luck and kudos to you.
silla
My parting words were very harsh.
He actually hit me with more warning points, and black holed the DDD thread for calling the forum a dictatorship. He warned me for something that occurred over PM. What a *****.
03-29-2008, 03:40 PM
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RE: Davis Diesel 3.3 T-Maxx
ORIGINAL: beer=food
l like that you are honest about this and all its querks, congrats on that conversion, lve been looking into em here, but being in australia we get limited everything, so hard to get, and fuel, still very good to see honest people surrounding this product.
l like that you are honest about this and all its querks, congrats on that conversion, lve been looking into em here, but being in australia we get limited everything, so hard to get, and fuel, still very good to see honest people surrounding this product.
Hows the weather down under?
03-29-2008, 05:23 PM
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RE: Davis Diesel 3.3 T-Maxx
keep us posted, I been following all your great information.
How much $$ have you in it so far??
I would love to do the same to my revo but haven't been able to find RC diesel in Mexico.
How much $$ have you in it so far??
I would love to do the same to my revo but haven't been able to find RC diesel in Mexico.
03-29-2008, 09:05 PM
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RE: Davis Diesel 3.3 T-Maxx
[This is a transplant of a thread I made on another forum, and I am moving it here, for safe keeping, and to be viewed by a more open minded population.
]
There's some closed minded people here as well. This topic has come up before and they will chime in soon. I was very interested in this and will be following the thread.
]
There's some closed minded people here as well. This topic has come up before and they will chime in soon. I was very interested in this and will be following the thread.
03-29-2008, 10:05 PM
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RE: Davis Diesel 3.3 T-Maxx
ORIGINAL: RevoDave
There's some closed minded people here as well. This topic has come up before and they will chime in soon. I was very interested in this and will be following the thread.
There's some closed minded people here as well. This topic has come up before and they will chime in soon. I was very interested in this and will be following the thread.
03-30-2008, 02:53 PM
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RE: Davis Diesel 3.3 T-Maxx
ORIGINAL: 91gti It wasn't the members I was having an issue with so much as with the mods. It is like being in church there. You cant say anything with out getting warned.
. Just as a joke I typed a bunch of asterisks like a sentence (*** ***** *** *****etc) and I got dinged a 20% warning just cause it tripped the language filter. Apparently the mods aren't allowed to or don't have the ability to use their brains and tell the difference between punctuation and bad words 
.... oh well thats all behind us now. Looking forward to updates / pics[8D]
03-30-2008, 11:54 PM
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RE: Davis Diesel 3.3 T-Maxx
OK, well, I am getting closer.
The fuel tank seal crapped the bed on me, so I used a cork, stuffed into the tank to seal it. Worked pisser.
Buuut, I still cant get it to rev.
It was 40 degrees today, and I tried it again.
Fired right up. Idles perfectly. No skipping, or missing, very little smoke at idle. Perfect
It will rev up and then just bog out.
It has massive amounts of torque for the rev that I do get.
It will sit there and to a 4 wheel burnout on pavement.
So, I am gonna pull the backplate and RTV that to rule out the possibility of an air leak back there, and then go from there.
If I still cant get it to work, I am gonna call bob @ DDD to see if he has any more input.
Should be in the 60's on tuesday.
The fuel tank seal crapped the bed on me, so I used a cork, stuffed into the tank to seal it. Worked pisser.
Buuut, I still cant get it to rev.
It was 40 degrees today, and I tried it again.
Fired right up. Idles perfectly. No skipping, or missing, very little smoke at idle. Perfect
It will rev up and then just bog out.
It has massive amounts of torque for the rev that I do get.
It will sit there and to a 4 wheel burnout on pavement.
So, I am gonna pull the backplate and RTV that to rule out the possibility of an air leak back there, and then go from there.
If I still cant get it to work, I am gonna call bob @ DDD to see if he has any more input.
Should be in the 60's on tuesday.