skootmaxx

Is it typical for a new engine to have so much compression that it will not start. Even worse its so tough that it makes pull starting a nightmare. we got this brand new xtm 457 and we used a blow dryer to heat it up . it helps alittle bit but the engine has so much pinch that it makes it hard to kick over. Its been taken part and sprayed down with wd40 and we took the roto start thinking it would be fine but we snapped the pull start string trying to start it .

StemTMAXX

most of the time its because of the Taper Fit in the Sleeve and being a new motor there isnt much play between the Piston and Sleeve, when I got my T-MAXX 3.3 it was a pain to get going but once I got it going and got it tuned right it starts up within 1-2 seconds of hitting the Sleezy Start button. Maybe try leaving the glow plug a little bit loose to releive some pressure?

91gti_wolfsburg

Traxxas motors when new have so much pinch that you frequently have to "pry" the motor past TDC for the first start.

I have heard it argued that this is both a defect and also an advantage. ??!?!?

skootmaxx

well to be honest this isnt a traxxas motor. but i trust the people here more than going anywhere else

systemlord

I wonder when car & monster truck engines will move toward ringed engines, by ringed engines I mean like my OS .70SZH-Ringed helicoptor engine. Having a ringed engine makes for a very easy start, even if its new. My Sirio .23 was hard to turn over, I remember when it was new it had a metal scraching noise (hard metal rubbing) when cranked over.

[email protected]

get a heat gun higher temps and it will start ezier. and there only 13 dollars on tower.

CHEVPARTPRO

Can't use rings on a car motor because of the high rpm.

skootmaxx

we were actually using a blow dryer . i heated it up a few times before it actually wanted to start. Its not even cold here . but since its so hard to start do you think we should wrap the head ?

matts6887

There probably is no need to wrap the head if its warm there. But on the other hand, it won't hurt it if u do it anyway. Another thing to do is like one of the others mentioned loosen the glow plug approx. 1/4 turn to release some of the compression while trying to start it. Then once it does start(if it does) then immediately tighten the plug back up...

Mspeed

I have been in the same boat as you skootmax, I put a new sleeve and piston in my axial .32 and decided to try out the pull start to break it in. Umm...well lets just say after lifting the truck off the ground a few times and unjamming the piston more than I can remember and proably almost breaking the starter cord, I got it broken in. I use a hairdryer as well and I like to put a bit of afterrun oil down in the glowplug hole when its new before I start it. I dont even know if the extra oil helps at all. The main things that have helped me are heating the motor and never using that pull start again. I dont mind pulls too much if you are passed the breakin. Still its box or roto/drill for me. I wrap my motors even if its warm outside when I first break them in. It helps get the temps up fast, then unwrap them as they are running as the temps climb up pasted 210 or so.

freestylingford

I just had a little issue with my new 3.3 last night I put the ez start on it and it was like NO!! So I finally put the pull start on and it was tough for about 10 pulls then it fired up and I was able to run through the first tank with out it dieing. I was really surprised also at how tough it was to get it to turn over. I am going to go finish breaking it in now. Really rich!

MTpockets

what worked for me with my new engine was removing the glow plug, fill the cylinder with wd40 and keep starting it till it feels better. keep using the wd-40. this will lube it and help remove any shavings that may be in there. then replace the glow plug and get her started.

beer=food

Oil is better, just a note on WD and RP7 and those type cleaning lubs, they are not the best, they are usefull because the burn easy, making starting easier, but, those types of lubes can do severe damage if used to much, they do not lubricate in the way an oil does, they clean, and oil lube sticks to your metal and forms a lubricated skin, so to speak, the WD or RP7 range removes that oily skin, you will notice whenever you use those type lube/cleaning products that it has a grey dirty colour when it runs out of the component sprayed, its cleaning all oil and metal particals out, good for pull downs and cleaning not the best for starting, will help destroy that lovely that pinch you'all talking about.
Put sewing machine oil in the glow plug at TDC jams, and turn over by hand, via fly wheel, definately use the hair dryer if your having these types of issue, and it doesnt matter what engine brand it is, if its ABC nitro construction, all of the above is true.

TM323

I heard the tighter the pinch during break in the better the engine. Just remember to let it warm up for awhile after it starts because also the tighter the pinch the harder on the conrod. That is were the blow dryer comnes in.

skootmaxx

well today it managed to destroy another pullstart .