t-max97

My Feedback: (9)

im getting an os.18cv-rx for my stock pro.15, will it strip drive shafts and gears.[:-]

donkeymaxx

When i put the 3.3 in my 2.5 maxxes the first things that went were the Yolks and diffs (cases and bearings).

rangerfredbob

My Feedback: (13)

is it running stock width suspension arms, or the widemaxx arms? (two shock positions or four) if it's still narrow, it'll last fine, if it's widened, you'll break them eventually, get the 2.5 version of the driveshafts, you'll need the joints and yokes as they're bigger too

I'm running my CV-R .18 on pro .15 shafts in the front and 2.5 shafts in the back and they've held up for half a gallon so far, and I'm not exactly easy on the thing, and I'm running widemaxx arms all around

willashcroft

will this be the same if you have a 3.3 in a 2.5 sportmaxx?

t-max97

My Feedback: (9)

every thing on it is stock that i know of i got it used[:-]

matts6887

Nahh; most likely u should be perfectly fine running the stock drive-train and gears...

tiemac

I put a OS-18 in my pro 15 4 months ago, Runs great.

scarletboa

My Feedback: (1)

it'll be fine. if there's one thing i like about traxxas it is the fact that i've never had to replace a diff yet. the diffs always seem to be built really strong for the truck. they could make stronger spur gears though[:@]

t-max97

My Feedback: (9)

off topic, but my t-maxx .15 has a crappy megatech .16 on it i got the truck used but how fast would a stock pro.15 maxx go? and is the .15 a good engine[X(][>:][&:][8D][:@][:'(][][:-][&o]

matts6887

Personally, if I were u, I would DITCH the pro .15 and get the 2.5 or 3.3(preferably the 3.3 imo) and with that end I think u will thank urself for going the route of a 3.3 because it definitely has got way more power and torque than the old pro .15 does....

t-max97

My Feedback: (9)

like i said in my last post i does not have the pro .15 on it right now[]

matts6887

DOH!!!!....I DID IT AGAIN(puts foot in mouth lol) anyways; I would still get the 3.3 for it(WHEN u go to get a new engine for it that is) because it has by far more power and torque over the old pro .15..

t-max97

My Feedback: (9)

a lot of people seem to like the 3.3 but not talking about power or torqe is the pro.15 a good engine like is it going to brake after a couple tanks of fuel[&o]

matts6887

Its not so much that it will "break" after a few tanks of fuel, because it will take more than that to do that to that engine; but its more the fact that, that engine does not really have enough torque to move the truck as easily as the 2.5 or 3.3 will....

t-max97

My Feedback: (9)

oh[X(] thank's for the info

matts6887

Yep! anytime man...no problem

rangerfredbob

My Feedback: (13)

the pro .15 will probably outlast a 2.5 or 3.3, it's just not ported to the extremes like a 2.5 or 3.3, it's a little less finiky too... I think they rated it for around 30mph with the pro .15

swapping to a 2.5 or 3.3 takes a fair amount of new parts, the throttle linkage is different ($40 kit there), the exhaust is compltely different (kit price depends on your wallet and your deal finding ability), and in the case of the 3.3, the engine mount is different, isn't it?

the reason people use the CV R .18 in the pro .15 maxx is because everything but the EZ start will bolt up, other than cutting off a couple threads of the crankshaft to use the stock pro .15 clutch nut

t-max97

My Feedback: (9)

why do you have to cut off some theads and how.

matts6887

Actually, as far as the engine mount for the 3.3; I believe its actually the same as the 2.5 and 2.5R engine mount...but I suppose I could be wrong there....someone correct me I am by all means....

quadracer111

My Feedback: (1)

the 2.5r and 2.5 is a direct drop in for the 3.3 i believe.. Its if you wanna go from pro .15 to 2.5 or 3.3 you need a new mount for $30

rangerfredbob

My Feedback: (13)

the pro .15 and 2.5 use the same mount, so that doesn't make any sense... if the 2.5 an 3.3 use the same mount, you don't need one between the pro .15 and 3.3, but that still leaves the throttle linkage and exhaust...

you have to cut the threads off because there are like 3 too many threads on the short shaft version, all you do is put the nut that comes on the engine all the way on then cut the end of the shaft off at the end of the nut with a dremel or a hack saw or something. the threads have to be trimmed because of the depth of the threads in the pro .15 clutch nut.

something with the pro .15 works fine for the beginner, fast enough to be fun, without having it be fast enough to break itself too easily, it's what I started with, I abused that thing... I prefer my RC with the zehoah 23cc... much more fun, less hassle than nitro