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To cut or not to cut... Pics
02-07-2009, 02:36 PM
#26
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RE: To cut or not to cut... Pics
ORIGINAL: Montana Mike
Cutting the header would ruin the header as well as not give you a good solid and secure connection with the coupler. I would not cut it just improvise. FullForceRC makes a Carbon Fiber Radio Tray that will allow you to mount a battery under the Receiver tray. Mount this tray in the original Battery position. Redrill your antenna hole in your lid and mounting holes for the tray in the battery box area. Have your battery as well as your receiver there and problem solved
Cutting the header would ruin the header as well as not give you a good solid and secure connection with the coupler. I would not cut it just improvise. FullForceRC makes a Carbon Fiber Radio Tray that will allow you to mount a battery under the Receiver tray. Mount this tray in the original Battery position. Redrill your antenna hole in your lid and mounting holes for the tray in the battery box area. Have your battery as well as your receiver there and problem solved
You might be able to get a small piece of plastic to use as a mounting base for the reciever box...I dont have any pics of it done, but heres what I'd do...
Use a flat pack and run the slayden mods. This would allow you to move your reviever box to the spot of the old battery box, which is now removed because you're running a flat pack under the chassis.
02-07-2009, 04:31 PM
#30
RE: To cut or not to cut... Pics
ORIGINAL: rcdudegermy10
Look at the slayden mods on the Traxxas website, gives you a near perfect plae to mount the battery (he used a flat pack under the chassis). Ideally you dont want your reciever exposed to the elements, especially in a nitro car where fuel and grime can get to it eventually rendering the rx useless (this is especially bad if you're running or ever plan to run an expensive after market reciever).
You might be able to get a small piece of plastic to use as a mounting base for the reciever box...I dont have any pics of it done, but heres what I'd do...
Use a flat pack and run the slayden mods. This would allow you to move your reviever box to the spot of the old battery box, which is now removed because you're running a flat pack under the chassis.
ORIGINAL: Montana Mike
Cutting the header would ruin the header as well as not give you a good solid and secure connection with the coupler. I would not cut it just improvise. FullForceRC makes a Carbon Fiber Radio Tray that will allow you to mount a battery under the Receiver tray. Mount this tray in the original Battery position. Redrill your antenna hole in your lid and mounting holes for the tray in the battery box area. Have your battery as well as your receiver there and problem solved
Cutting the header would ruin the header as well as not give you a good solid and secure connection with the coupler. I would not cut it just improvise. FullForceRC makes a Carbon Fiber Radio Tray that will allow you to mount a battery under the Receiver tray. Mount this tray in the original Battery position. Redrill your antenna hole in your lid and mounting holes for the tray in the battery box area. Have your battery as well as your receiver there and problem solved
You might be able to get a small piece of plastic to use as a mounting base for the reciever box...I dont have any pics of it done, but heres what I'd do...
Use a flat pack and run the slayden mods. This would allow you to move your reviever box to the spot of the old battery box, which is now removed because you're running a flat pack under the chassis.
02-07-2009, 05:13 PM
#31
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RE: To cut or not to cut... Pics
Unless you know EXACTLY what cutting it is going to do to performance, you should never cut your header. Cutting it could completely kill the power of the engine, and where you are proposing to cut it, getting a coupler to stay put on the header will be a pita. On my Revo, I have to make sure that the header and pipe are inline in order to keep the coupler from tearing, and to keep anything from popping apart while running.
02-07-2009, 05:59 PM
#32
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RE: To cut or not to cut... Pics
Take it you Guys don't know much about Pipes & Headers
......
RB Concept Makes Conical Inline Headers/Manifolds.......So You can choose between 3 lengths to adjust the handling of your engine....
The short version will improve overall top speed and high RPM.
The medium length version is perfect to have the best balance between torque and high RPM.
The long version will insure the best power from the very low RPM.
......RB Concept Makes Conical Inline Headers/Manifolds.......So You can choose between 3 lengths to adjust the handling of your engine....
The short version will improve overall top speed and high RPM.
The medium length version is perfect to have the best balance between torque and high RPM.
The long version will insure the best power from the very low RPM.
02-07-2009, 08:03 PM
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RE: To cut or not to cut... Pics
I understand pipes, but am used to ones where the pipe and header are matched for optimum performance(snowmobiles). What I have always been told is to not cut any part of a 2 stroke's exhaust system. Also, from looking a little closer at the pics, it looks like the header has a little ridge on it to help keep the pipe coupling in place. If I'm seeing it right, and you cut it, you'll then have a much harder time keeping your pipe coupler on.
02-07-2009, 08:38 PM
#34
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RE: To cut or not to cut... Pics
ORIGINAL: rcdudegermy10
Use a flat pack and run the slayden mods. This would allow you to move your reviever box to the spot of the old battery box, which is now removed because you're running a flat pack under the chassis.
Use a flat pack and run the slayden mods. This would allow you to move your reviever box to the spot of the old battery box, which is now removed because you're running a flat pack under the chassis.
Okay.... heres what I'm plannin on...
I'm gonna run this hump pack http://www.onlybatterypacks.com/show...temID=10556.16 mounted near the front shock tower ( to help keep the front end down) then move my receiver box. In the mean time I'll run the pipe hanging outside of the receiver box.
I looked at the slayden setup but don't like having the batteries exposed on the bottom. For straight track running it'll work but when bashin I can see a rock destroying the batteries on a landing.
Why does everyone run 2 and 300 dollar radios? What is the advantage? Longer range? I saw the spectrum has a temp readout on the display screen. Is there a temp gauge that you put on the motor? Seems like a cool deal to have a temp gauge but 300 bucks is a lot of money.
02-07-2009, 09:50 PM
#35
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RE: To cut or not to cut... Pics
Mines only a 150 dollar radio. Really, for bashing, it does everything I need it to do. I do want to get one of those spectrums with the temp readout and all, but don't need it, and can't spare the money for it. The biggest advantage I gained over the stock radio gear in my cars was less interference. Another advantage was the fact that I no longer had to keep several sets of batteries on hand or trade batteries from one radio to the next.
02-07-2009, 09:54 PM
#36
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RE: To cut or not to cut... Pics
ORIGINAL: Straick
Another advantage was the fact that I no longer had to keep several sets of batteries on hand or trade batteries from one radio to the next.
Another advantage was the fact that I no longer had to keep several sets of batteries on hand or trade batteries from one radio to the next.
Why? do they come with rechargable packs?
02-08-2009, 08:26 AM
#37
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RE: To cut or not to cut... Pics
hi fab, my radio cost £60 and has i think the smallest rx (W28mm, D21mm, H15mm) its an Acoms 2.4ghz much better than the stock radio (i have a revo btw) you could modify that box or make a mount to get this rx to fit/sit on and you will have more room for the exhaust
02-08-2009, 11:46 AM
#38
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RE: To cut or not to cut... Pics
You can always do what I did and runa trinity revo pipe I do believe thats what its off of it came in the box when I recieved the truck as a total builder. I sinmply ran my savage headder pipe with the short muffler out the side. I am gonna go bashin today so ill get ya some better pics. The ones I posted are from when I first got the box of parts together. Now mind you I have no idea really if this pipe is good or not as im still breakin in the motor?
02-08-2009, 12:42 PM
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RE: To cut or not to cut... Pics
ORIGINAL: FRENCHBLUE72
You can always do what I did and runa trinity revo pipe I do believe thats what its off of it came in the box when I recieved the truck as a total builder. I sinmply ran my savage headder pipe with the short muffler out the side. I am gonna go bashin today so ill get ya some better pics. The ones I posted are from when I first got the box of parts together. Now mind you I have no idea really if this pipe is good or not as im still breakin in the motor?
You can always do what I did and runa trinity revo pipe I do believe thats what its off of it came in the box when I recieved the truck as a total builder. I sinmply ran my savage headder pipe with the short muffler out the side. I am gonna go bashin today so ill get ya some better pics. The ones I posted are from when I first got the box of parts together. Now mind you I have no idea really if this pipe is good or not as im still breakin in the motor?
is yours a .28 ? i'd remove it
02-08-2009, 02:34 PM
#41
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RE: To cut or not to cut... Pics
hows turning the box 90 degrees? does it interfere with the body? I have a longer pipe with FLM chassis, and I angle the box, using only 1 screw + locknut to hold it on. It works perfect, doesnt move at all. Find the angle that it will give you room, and think of a way to mount it, using washers, old parts, etc. and see if you like it. Such as brake plates. They are strong and do work. I have one holding one side of my gas tank and its never failed. YOu can see my receiver box too.
02-08-2009, 03:37 PM
#42
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RE: To cut or not to cut... Pics
The reason I don't have to swap batteries is because my radio has a multi model memory in it. It didn't come with rechargeables, but I put in some 2500 Nimh AA's and no longer have to buy batteries. Only had to replace them once, and that was after almost 3 years of use.
Turning your radio box looks like it might work. What I have done before is to put my receiver into a balloon and then ziptie it shut(keeps crud off the radio and out of the insides, and then ziptie that down. No radio box needed.
Turning your radio box looks like it might work. What I have done before is to put my receiver into a balloon and then ziptie it shut(keeps crud off the radio and out of the insides, and then ziptie that down. No radio box needed.
02-08-2009, 05:51 PM
#43
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RE: To cut or not to cut... Pics
ORIGINAL: fabrimacator21
Okay.... heres what I'm plannin on...
I'm gonna run this hump pack http://www.onlybatterypacks.com/show...temID=10556.16 mounted near the front shock tower ( to help keep the front end down) then move my receiver box. In the mean time I'll run the pipe hanging outside of the receiver box.
I looked at the slayden setup but don't like having the batteries exposed on the bottom. For straight track running it'll work but when bashin I can see a rock destroying the batteries on a landing.
ORIGINAL: rcdudegermy10
Use a flat pack and run the slayden mods. This would allow you to move your reviever box to the spot of the old battery box, which is now removed because you're running a flat pack under the chassis.
Use a flat pack and run the slayden mods. This would allow you to move your reviever box to the spot of the old battery box, which is now removed because you're running a flat pack under the chassis.
I'm gonna run this hump pack http://www.onlybatterypacks.com/show...temID=10556.16 mounted near the front shock tower ( to help keep the front end down) then move my receiver box. In the mean time I'll run the pipe hanging outside of the receiver box.
I looked at the slayden setup but don't like having the batteries exposed on the bottom. For straight track running it'll work but when bashin I can see a rock destroying the batteries on a landing.
02-08-2009, 07:17 PM
#44
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RE: To cut or not to cut... Pics
ORIGINAL: aznherb36
hows turning the box 90 degrees? does it interfere with the body? I have a longer pipe with FLM chassis, and I angle the box, using only 1 screw + locknut to hold it on. It works perfect, doesnt move at all. Find the angle that it will give you room, and think of a way to mount it, using washers, old parts, etc. and see if you like it. Such as brake plates. They are strong and do work. I have one holding one side of my gas tank and its never failed. YOu can see my receiver box too.
hows turning the box 90 degrees? does it interfere with the body? I have a longer pipe with FLM chassis, and I angle the box, using only 1 screw + locknut to hold it on. It works perfect, doesnt move at all. Find the angle that it will give you room, and think of a way to mount it, using washers, old parts, etc. and see if you like it. Such as brake plates. They are strong and do work. I have one holding one side of my gas tank and its never failed. YOu can see my receiver box too.
Thanks
02-08-2009, 08:38 PM
#45
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RE: To cut or not to cut... Pics
ORIGINAL: aznherb36
hows turning the box 90 degrees? does it interfere with the body? I have a longer pipe with FLM chassis, and I angle the box, using only 1 screw + locknut to hold it on. It works perfect, doesnt move at all. Find the angle that it will give you room, and think of a way to mount it, using washers, old parts, etc. and see if you like it. Such as brake plates. They are strong and do work. I have one holding one side of my gas tank and its never failed. YOu can see my receiver box too.
hows turning the box 90 degrees? does it interfere with the body? I have a longer pipe with FLM chassis, and I angle the box, using only 1 screw + locknut to hold it on. It works perfect, doesnt move at all. Find the angle that it will give you room, and think of a way to mount it, using washers, old parts, etc. and see if you like it. Such as brake plates. They are strong and do work. I have one holding one side of my gas tank and its never failed. YOu can see my receiver box too.
02-08-2009, 08:50 PM
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RE: To cut or not to cut... Pics
keep it as is. but use this. http://www.buytraxxas.com/product_in...oducts_id=1673
02-09-2009, 12:19 PM
#47
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RE: To cut or not to cut... Pics
ORIGINAL: fabrimacator21
Okay.... heres what I'm plannin on...
Why does everyone run 2 and 300 dollar radios? What is the advantage? Longer range? I saw the spectrum has a temp readout on the display screen. Is there a temp gauge that you put on the motor? Seems like a cool deal to have a temp gauge but 300 bucks is a lot of money.
ORIGINAL: rcdudegermy10
Use a flat pack and run the slayden mods. This would allow you to move your reviever box to the spot of the old battery box, which is now removed because you're running a flat pack under the chassis.
Use a flat pack and run the slayden mods. This would allow you to move your reviever box to the spot of the old battery box, which is now removed because you're running a flat pack under the chassis.
Okay.... heres what I'm plannin on...
Why does everyone run 2 and 300 dollar radios? What is the advantage? Longer range? I saw the spectrum has a temp readout on the display screen. Is there a temp gauge that you put on the motor? Seems like a cool deal to have a temp gauge but 300 bucks is a lot of money.
Well, because the spektrum systems are some of the better radio systems out there on the market today. I have and use the spektrum dx3.0 and love it. Especially not having to worry about interference from outside sources, and other possible sources, and the fact u dont have to worry about switching crystals because the spektrum systems don't use any, plus they have a built-in failsafe on them....
02-09-2009, 02:36 PM
#48
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RE: To cut or not to cut... Pics
ORIGINAL: superman11
Hey, I have a quick question for you aznherb36, sorry this does not belong here but I saw that picture and wondered.... What kind of CVD's and certer shafts do you have? I am looking into buying some!
Thanks
ORIGINAL: aznherb36
hows turning the box 90 degrees? does it interfere with the body? I have a longer pipe with FLM chassis, and I angle the box, using only 1 screw + locknut to hold it on. It works perfect, doesnt move at all. Find the angle that it will give you room, and think of a way to mount it, using washers, old parts, etc. and see if you like it. Such as brake plates. They are strong and do work. I have one holding one side of my gas tank and its never failed. YOu can see my receiver box too.
hows turning the box 90 degrees? does it interfere with the body? I have a longer pipe with FLM chassis, and I angle the box, using only 1 screw + locknut to hold it on. It works perfect, doesnt move at all. Find the angle that it will give you room, and think of a way to mount it, using washers, old parts, etc. and see if you like it. Such as brake plates. They are strong and do work. I have one holding one side of my gas tank and its never failed. YOu can see my receiver box too.
Thanks
