traxxas top fuel
09-02-2014, 11:37 AM
#51
In the end your fuel is very poor and the cause of your issues... all that type of oil needs extremely high temps to burn.... exactly why I hate high oil..... and if you tried to actually load that engine it would be over 400 degrees and detonating like crazy...... In the end if your happy that's all that matters...but don't confuse your happiness with how badly high oil fuels affect performance...Back to back against Werks fuel you would end up laughing at yourself for wasting all that time running the swill you run, the difference back to back would be massive...
09-06-2014, 07:58 AM
#52
Senior Member
Thanks man. Back on topic......I've never had a problem on the top fuel power plus. Its weird how on forums you'll always get two completely
Different opinions on the same product. Miles may vary I guess.
I can see what he's saying about higher oil. If temps did get to 400 we would have a problem.
But I couldn't get it much over 260 while hard at wot. Its steady after back to back tanks.
I totally understand why you'd want 6-8% oil while racing. Its because 1 guy does it and gets a few more seconds off a tank. After a few laps it adds up. So your forced to because you'll have a disadvantage on run time.
Proof that you lean an engine with less/thinner oil ....and richen it for higher /thicker oil.
To get the power back it needs richened to get more burnable fuel thru it.
Tib said you gotta lean it out because it never gets out a fourstroke? I don't know. I don't have that problem with the car. Or my plane with a TT pro .46.
I just don't think 6-8% oil can keep up at 30k plus for good engine life. It bothers me when I have to squint for a smoke trail. Werks hardly has smoke at long wot runs.
Im not sure about more oil covering a lean bog. I was able to lean my old 4.6 on werks by half a turn or more from an optimal tune....still didn't bog on shorter wot runs.
Think that varys by engine. I don't tune until it lean bogs lol. I jeep richening until top speed rpm us reduced than lean until highest rpm on longer wot straightaway. If going leaner doesn't give a higher rpm I back off from there a bit.
Going leaner past peak won't raise peak rpms but will get there faster. That's the only tricky part.
Ignoring how fast it winds up...
Instead what rpm does it do on a long wot run?
And obviously being 2 stroke I don't hold wot too long. Even on a good tune you can't wot a 2 smoker forever. I'm sure lots of people do though. In that case more oil and a richer needle should help.
How cool would my engine run on 6%?.....well I could tell you. That piston and sleeve on the same engine did hit the 240s on werks fuel. Same engine. Not much difference. If it was holding at 220 does it matter? So the piston might wear to it slightly different.... Then again it might not. Who's gonna prove 40 degrees variance just suddenly opens up the sleeve more? But I don't see that variance. Maybe within 20 degrees or so.
200cc air cooled engines in quads will reach 240s at the spark plug. They get their 100hours no problem if tuned and taken care of. Not sure why I'd cry over a fuel that runs 20 degrees cooler on a 3-5 cc engine?
Supertib aren't you the guy who says a hot warmed up engine is harder to roll the flywheel over vs a cold one?
I've yet to see that. From traxxas engines to two HPI engines.....to plane engines.
Next week I should have my new synthetic/castor mix. Interested to see any difference with a low viscosity fuel.
Different opinions on the same product. Miles may vary I guess.
I can see what he's saying about higher oil. If temps did get to 400 we would have a problem.
But I couldn't get it much over 260 while hard at wot. Its steady after back to back tanks.
I totally understand why you'd want 6-8% oil while racing. Its because 1 guy does it and gets a few more seconds off a tank. After a few laps it adds up. So your forced to because you'll have a disadvantage on run time.
Proof that you lean an engine with less/thinner oil ....and richen it for higher /thicker oil.
To get the power back it needs richened to get more burnable fuel thru it.
Tib said you gotta lean it out because it never gets out a fourstroke? I don't know. I don't have that problem with the car. Or my plane with a TT pro .46.
I just don't think 6-8% oil can keep up at 30k plus for good engine life. It bothers me when I have to squint for a smoke trail. Werks hardly has smoke at long wot runs.
Im not sure about more oil covering a lean bog. I was able to lean my old 4.6 on werks by half a turn or more from an optimal tune....still didn't bog on shorter wot runs.
Think that varys by engine. I don't tune until it lean bogs lol. I jeep richening until top speed rpm us reduced than lean until highest rpm on longer wot straightaway. If going leaner doesn't give a higher rpm I back off from there a bit.
Going leaner past peak won't raise peak rpms but will get there faster. That's the only tricky part.
Ignoring how fast it winds up...
Instead what rpm does it do on a long wot run?
And obviously being 2 stroke I don't hold wot too long. Even on a good tune you can't wot a 2 smoker forever. I'm sure lots of people do though. In that case more oil and a richer needle should help.
How cool would my engine run on 6%?.....well I could tell you. That piston and sleeve on the same engine did hit the 240s on werks fuel. Same engine. Not much difference. If it was holding at 220 does it matter? So the piston might wear to it slightly different.... Then again it might not. Who's gonna prove 40 degrees variance just suddenly opens up the sleeve more? But I don't see that variance. Maybe within 20 degrees or so.
200cc air cooled engines in quads will reach 240s at the spark plug. They get their 100hours no problem if tuned and taken care of. Not sure why I'd cry over a fuel that runs 20 degrees cooler on a 3-5 cc engine?
Supertib aren't you the guy who says a hot warmed up engine is harder to roll the flywheel over vs a cold one?
I've yet to see that. From traxxas engines to two HPI engines.....to plane engines.
Next week I should have my new synthetic/castor mix. Interested to see any difference with a low viscosity fuel.
You are very wrong about low oil not protecting high RPM engines...... In your videos neither of your engines are even hitting 30 000 RPM............... I run engines that are used in comeptiton, carrying heavier loads and actually hitting a real 42 000 RPM and used in continuously in races that can last as long as 45 minutes...... The absolutely best fuel there is for protection and engine life is the lower oil fuels like Bones and Werks...The engines we run are making double the power of your running and spinning at least 10 000 RPM higher and we are seeing fantastic engine life..Go watch some offroad racing and listen to the engines, then compare to the note yours are hitting, no comparison... If anyone is going to know what fuels work and protect and what fuels don't will be the guys who are actually racing and running hard with high output engines............I would love to see you come race with a 20/16 blend , we could use the fogging for mosquitoes.......
09-06-2014, 08:00 AM
#53
Senior Member
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VrJ-mI1a2bs
Ad here is a engine that is hitting 42 000 RPM..using 7% oil...engine has now 14 gallons on it and is still running strong with only a 0.001" runout on the crankpin......This is a .21 that makes more power then your LRP and spins an extra 10 000 RPM..........this is a whole different world....
09-06-2014, 08:04 AM
#54
Senior Member
I know...this is why Werks fuel is so good..it runs nearly smoke free....the oil stays and protects and there isn't so much that it contaminates the mixture.......My issue with high oil fuel is that it has to run very hot to get a clean and crispy race tune, if you try to run it cool it will be loaded up and blubbery... In competition high heat is a huge issue as it takes away stability and reliability and compromises driveability....Hot engines usually do not idle down correctly and when your racing a engines needs to idle down near instantly to a low idle or you can't control the car over the jumps....
Last edited by supertib; 09-06-2014 at 08:32 AM.
09-06-2014, 08:19 AM
#55
Senior Member
Ran 1 tank prior the vid. Take my word for it. Filled up while running than started the vid. Low 80s outside. Temps were 240-260. Almost cursed when I hit bricks at speed. My bad. She's fine though. Had another nice tumble also. Lsn about 1/8 too rich otherwise tuned.
Would of went longer but I guess I didn't glue my new tires good enough. Blew the bead and had to stop.
Temps near end of tanks are 240s usually. 260 or so after some hard wot.
16% straight benol by volume. Tunes easy. Has lots of power.
I want to try the klotz lite techniplate. Seems its designed around glow engines. I'm thinking 15% lite+3% benol. See if we can get her running even better with a good dominate synthetic.
Enjoy.
Firestorm 10t: http://youtu.be/g_gv9x1ZkVA
Would of went longer but I guess I didn't glue my new tires good enough. Blew the bead and had to stop.
Temps near end of tanks are 240s usually. 260 or so after some hard wot.
16% straight benol by volume. Tunes easy. Has lots of power.
I want to try the klotz lite techniplate. Seems its designed around glow engines. I'm thinking 15% lite+3% benol. See if we can get her running even better with a good dominate synthetic.
Enjoy.
Firestorm 10t: http://youtu.be/g_gv9x1ZkVA
09-07-2014, 12:15 AM
#56
Why won't they idle down? What's hot? Couldn't that be something else causing a idle problem? I don't see how a few degrees higher suddenly caused an idle down problem.
Well I hope a modded racing engine hits higher rpms than a rtr from hpi.
I haven't seen my cheap slow rtrs run much cooler at all from 16 to 10%. Surely 6% should be noticed. But it slowly climbed right up to 250s regardless. If anything was still rich.
I get the theory....but I'm not able to make it happen. Both tuning for decent power to keep it fair. The same tune on 16% going to 10 I had to turn in the HSN solid 1/4 turn to get it to hit a good rpm. Did that today with one tank. I suppose it ran slightly crispier. But the small difference doesn't hurt a basher at all. After a tank and a half I checked temps and was about the same as usual.
Well I hope a modded racing engine hits higher rpms than a rtr from hpi.
I haven't seen my cheap slow rtrs run much cooler at all from 16 to 10%. Surely 6% should be noticed. But it slowly climbed right up to 250s regardless. If anything was still rich.
I get the theory....but I'm not able to make it happen. Both tuning for decent power to keep it fair. The same tune on 16% going to 10 I had to turn in the HSN solid 1/4 turn to get it to hit a good rpm. Did that today with one tank. I suppose it ran slightly crispier. But the small difference doesn't hurt a basher at all. After a tank and a half I checked temps and was about the same as usual.
Last edited by rcbence; 09-07-2014 at 12:20 AM.
09-07-2014, 05:33 AM
#57
Senior Member
Why won't they idle down? What's hot? Couldn't that be something else causing a idle problem? I don't see how a few degrees higher suddenly caused an idle down problem.
Well I hope a modded racing engine hits higher rpms than a rtr from hpi.
I haven't seen my cheap slow rtrs run much cooler at all from 16 to 10%. Surely 6% should be noticed. But it slowly climbed right up to 250s regardless. If anything was still rich.
I get the theory....but I'm not able to make it happen. Both tuning for decent power to keep it fair. The same tune on 16% going to 10 I had to turn in the HSN solid 1/4 turn to get it to hit a good rpm. Did that today with one tank. I suppose it ran slightly crispier. But the small difference doesn't hurt a basher at all. After a tank and a half I checked temps and was about the same as usual.
Well I hope a modded racing engine hits higher rpms than a rtr from hpi.
I haven't seen my cheap slow rtrs run much cooler at all from 16 to 10%. Surely 6% should be noticed. But it slowly climbed right up to 250s regardless. If anything was still rich.
I get the theory....but I'm not able to make it happen. Both tuning for decent power to keep it fair. The same tune on 16% going to 10 I had to turn in the HSN solid 1/4 turn to get it to hit a good rpm. Did that today with one tank. I suppose it ran slightly crispier. But the small difference doesn't hurt a basher at all. After a tank and a half I checked temps and was about the same as usual.
Your fuel definitely runs better in that RTR then I would have expected,good show ! , definitely better then it would in a race engine.
And definitely the race engines hit higher RPM's... my only point with that was You were skeptical that a low oil fuel could protect properly at 30 000 RPM , I am running over 40 000 RPM using a lower oil fuel and have no wear issues. and this particular fuel has shown great wear resistance in engines being run in very harsh competition environments.
As for the idle,heat and throttle response issues we see about the best answer I can offer is that without you yourself taking a swing at racing your probably not going to understand or appreciate everything I am throwing at you..
And there is also some other factors that I have considered ...You run a engine that uses a OWB... meaning you have a shaft that runs thru a bushing in your backplate that is required to hold a seal to the crankcase ..Often times the tolerance between this shaft and bushing are not the best due to wear as well lack of precision assembly process...A higher oil fuel using a heavy castor will seal this shaft/bushing better then a low oil content synthetic type fuel.......And as you know 2 strokes need a sealed crankcase to operate correctly, and the more leakage there is, the more power is lost and the less efficiently the engine will run.. Also a higher oil fuel will seal a loose fitting piston better in the sleeve then a low oil fuel will... So these differences in our engines are likely a big part of of the differences we see with the different fuels..We are all running sealed back plate, high compression tight tolerance engines. We are likely seeing much higher combustion pressures and this is why we see detonation with the higher oil that you do not...... Because our engines are sealed we don't lose crankcase pressure from low oil and we see good power gains.... If you lose crankcase seal from low oil any extra power you gained would be lost ... Add in if your piston is not fitted as tightly , then you could lose operating compression which would also negate any power gains from the lower oil........
09-09-2014, 03:22 AM
#59
Senior Member
RBench actually has some video showing his cars in action....... fairly good video considering the swill he runs for fuel..... Unlike you who just trolls the forums reminiscing on your Axial 32 from 10 years ago....
09-09-2014, 03:45 AM
#60
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No, not ten- its been a while though. I intentionally got myself out of nitro because of people like you. 
but maybe i'll bring that one back just for you neal.
So, high oil content and detonation. Ive never heard of high oil causing detonation. the only thing ive ever heard or seen to cause that is too much compression or too much nitro. even the bushing 2 strokes that run 14-18% oil dont detonate. Ive heard of the oil robbing heat from the pipe, and cutting power that way, but im curious how you draw that conclusion. maybe you have a handy dyno chart that shows?
but maybe i'll bring that one back just for you neal. So, high oil content and detonation. Ive never heard of high oil causing detonation. the only thing ive ever heard or seen to cause that is too much compression or too much nitro. even the bushing 2 strokes that run 14-18% oil dont detonate. Ive heard of the oil robbing heat from the pipe, and cutting power that way, but im curious how you draw that conclusion. maybe you have a handy dyno chart that shows?
09-09-2014, 03:46 AM
#61
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09-09-2014, 04:24 AM
#62
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No, not ten- its been a while though. I intentionally got myself out of nitro because of people like you. but maybe i'll bring that one back just for you neal.
So, high oil content and detonation. Ive never heard of high oil causing detonation. the only thing ive ever heard or seen to cause that is too much compression or too much nitro. even the bushing 2 strokes that run 14-18% oil dont detonate. Ive heard of the oil robbing heat from the pipe, and cutting power that way, but im curious how you draw that conclusion. maybe you have a handy dyno chart that shows?
but maybe i'll bring that one back just for you neal. So, high oil content and detonation. Ive never heard of high oil causing detonation. the only thing ive ever heard or seen to cause that is too much compression or too much nitro. even the bushing 2 strokes that run 14-18% oil dont detonate. Ive heard of the oil robbing heat from the pipe, and cutting power that way, but im curious how you draw that conclusion. maybe you have a handy dyno chart that shows?
09-09-2014, 04:44 AM
#63
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Well be real and honest...what nitro engines have you actually run ? I Am not surprised that you are not aware of what high oil does to some of these engines as you probably haven't run too many of them..Without actually being there and doing it you would have no way to know any differently... which is why you are here arguing with me on the topicas you truly don't know any better, as you lack experience.......Bluster and bluff as much as you want, but you are not overly experienced with nitro and shave spent more time here trolling the forums then you have actually running nitro......
Are you going to answer my question?
09-09-2014, 05:39 AM
#64
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high oil destroys car engines and makes proper tuning impossible.....a 16% oil will be down 30% power and many thousand RPM over a lower oil 7% fuel.....The high oil will want to detonate and run hot as hell if any attempt is made to fully tune the engine....I have a legitimate dyno and have tested this many times over...not speaking out my ass...
If a offroad racer was to try to tune to performance and use a 16% oil fuel the engine would not last a day..it would detonate itself to death...as well be severely down on power and RPM
rapid acceleration is what kills engine bearings in offroad engines...not lack of oil
Airplanes have props that heavily load the engines and prevent violent RPM spikes....car engines do not have that..they see violent RPM spikes that kill bearings and hurts pistons......
Traxxass fuel is a horrendously bad product, it will not run correctly no mater who tunes it......the werks will be crisp and clean, the traxass will be broken and sputtery
HIgh oil has no place in our car engine whatsoever...... makes engines run terrible, tuning is impossible, engines detonate like crazy and power and RPM is severely depleted...... A quality fuel with low oil such as Werks is far more ideal and will give much better engine life and much broader tuning window.... the difference is massive.. ( Werks has 7% oil and it protects 10000X better then top fuel ever could )
Oil is a contaminate and the more of it in th fuel the leaner the mixture needs to be run and the hotter the engine will run, this in itself insit do bad but the extra heat and contamination causes excessive detonation.....The only way high oil runs is if he mixture is kept rich and the negine is never allowed to fully clear out, it will need to always run with a rich sputter and will never get that crisp on song 2 stroke sound...it will always sound like a misfiring Briggs and stratton.......if any attempt is made to tune further the engine will lose stability
If a offroad racer was to try to tune to performance and use a 16% oil fuel the engine would not last a day..it would detonate itself to death...as well be severely down on power and RPM
rapid acceleration is what kills engine bearings in offroad engines...not lack of oil
Airplanes have props that heavily load the engines and prevent violent RPM spikes....car engines do not have that..they see violent RPM spikes that kill bearings and hurts pistons......
Traxxass fuel is a horrendously bad product, it will not run correctly no mater who tunes it......the werks will be crisp and clean, the traxass will be broken and sputtery
HIgh oil has no place in our car engine whatsoever...... makes engines run terrible, tuning is impossible, engines detonate like crazy and power and RPM is severely depleted...... A quality fuel with low oil such as Werks is far more ideal and will give much better engine life and much broader tuning window.... the difference is massive.. ( Werks has 7% oil and it protects 10000X better then top fuel ever could )
Oil is a contaminate and the more of it in th fuel the leaner the mixture needs to be run and the hotter the engine will run, this in itself insit do bad but the extra heat and contamination causes excessive detonation.....The only way high oil runs is if he mixture is kept rich and the negine is never allowed to fully clear out, it will need to always run with a rich sputter and will never get that crisp on song 2 stroke sound...it will always sound like a misfiring Briggs and stratton.......if any attempt is made to tune further the engine will lose stability
09-09-2014, 02:41 PM
#65
He admit basically that more oil can add power because of a better seal on the average engine.
I don't think he's straight up lying.....but if high oil is causing detonation than you must have too much nitro or compression. I think its fair to use plane engine because they can run hot as well when in tight cowls. 16+% apparently has been used for years. I always ran omega in my TT .46. Lots add oil to it to make it a true 17+% oil by volume. Both of my TT look perfect inside. No pitting from too much oil.
If used 20% nitro I'd most likely have problems...because it was designed for 5-10 and no more than15%.
Nitro adds power sure. But in these engines with no ignition.....too much and you need to lower the compression because it acts as a timing advance. That's why you can get away with 5-15% nitro and have similar power to one at 30%. Simply rasie the compression to get similar timing on the higher nitro.
I don't understand either how oil causes detonation.
The oils getting vaporized. What doesn't gets spit out the exhaust. Thats the oil that's keeping things lubed up.
I don't have misfiring brigs. As long as there's power and its not saving or bogging....why worry about the temp?
Maybe you need an extra shim or 2. Must be running them race engine right on the edge.
1 lean run or lean tank and I'm sure the damage is being done with 6-8% oil. Not enough fuel at 30k will starve it....but more importantly its not getting enough oil to keep up either. I'm sure a fuel with double that oil will protect more in case of a lean run.
I just don't buy that cars can go with less oil because they aren't under as much load.
Winding that little piston 600 times per second is quite the load I believe lol. If aero engine start to suffer with 10% oil then surely a car engine will too. Not to say it won't work or run...just a lot shorter.
I don't believe werks castor oil is better than others.
Their synthetic isn't equivalent to 18% oil. If its good enough for 40k then its surely good enough in any plane engine. Try it for awhile and let me know how it lasts.
I don't think he's straight up lying.....but if high oil is causing detonation than you must have too much nitro or compression. I think its fair to use plane engine because they can run hot as well when in tight cowls. 16+% apparently has been used for years. I always ran omega in my TT .46. Lots add oil to it to make it a true 17+% oil by volume. Both of my TT look perfect inside. No pitting from too much oil.
If used 20% nitro I'd most likely have problems...because it was designed for 5-10 and no more than15%.
Nitro adds power sure. But in these engines with no ignition.....too much and you need to lower the compression because it acts as a timing advance. That's why you can get away with 5-15% nitro and have similar power to one at 30%. Simply rasie the compression to get similar timing on the higher nitro.
I don't understand either how oil causes detonation.
The oils getting vaporized. What doesn't gets spit out the exhaust. Thats the oil that's keeping things lubed up.
I don't have misfiring brigs. As long as there's power and its not saving or bogging....why worry about the temp?
Maybe you need an extra shim or 2. Must be running them race engine right on the edge.
1 lean run or lean tank and I'm sure the damage is being done with 6-8% oil. Not enough fuel at 30k will starve it....but more importantly its not getting enough oil to keep up either. I'm sure a fuel with double that oil will protect more in case of a lean run.
I just don't buy that cars can go with less oil because they aren't under as much load.
Winding that little piston 600 times per second is quite the load I believe lol. If aero engine start to suffer with 10% oil then surely a car engine will too. Not to say it won't work or run...just a lot shorter.
I don't believe werks castor oil is better than others.
Their synthetic isn't equivalent to 18% oil. If its good enough for 40k then its surely good enough in any plane engine. Try it for awhile and let me know how it lasts.
09-15-2014, 07:09 AM
#66
Senior Member
He admit basically that more oil can add power because of a better seal on the average engine.
I don't think he's straight up lying.....but if high oil is causing detonation than you must have too much nitro or compression. I think its fair to use plane engine because they can run hot as well when in tight cowls. 16+% apparently has been used for years. I always ran omega in my TT .46. Lots add oil to it to make it a true 17+% oil by volume. Both of my TT look perfect inside. No pitting from too much oil.
If used 20% nitro I'd most likely have problems...because it was designed for 5-10 and no more than15%.
Nitro adds power sure. But in these engines with no ignition.....too much and you need to lower the compression because it acts as a timing advance. That's why you can get away with 5-15% nitro and have similar power to one at 30%. Simply rasie the compression to get similar timing on the higher nitro.
I don't understand either how oil causes detonation.
The oils getting vaporized. What doesn't gets spit out the exhaust. Thats the oil that's keeping things lubed up.
I don't have misfiring brigs. As long as there's power and its not saving or bogging....why worry about the temp?
Maybe you need an extra shim or 2. Must be running them race engine right on the edge.
1 lean run or lean tank and I'm sure the damage is being done with 6-8% oil. Not enough fuel at 30k will starve it....but more importantly its not getting enough oil to keep up either. I'm sure a fuel with double that oil will protect more in case of a lean run.
I just don't buy that cars can go with less oil because they aren't under as much load.
Winding that little piston 600 times per second is quite the load I believe lol. If aero engine start to suffer with 10% oil then surely a car engine will too. Not to say it won't work or run...just a lot shorter.
I don't believe werks castor oil is better than others.
Their synthetic isn't equivalent to 18% oil. If its good enough for 40k then its surely good enough in any plane engine. Try it for awhile and let me know how it lasts.
I don't think he's straight up lying.....but if high oil is causing detonation than you must have too much nitro or compression. I think its fair to use plane engine because they can run hot as well when in tight cowls. 16+% apparently has been used for years. I always ran omega in my TT .46. Lots add oil to it to make it a true 17+% oil by volume. Both of my TT look perfect inside. No pitting from too much oil.
If used 20% nitro I'd most likely have problems...because it was designed for 5-10 and no more than15%.
Nitro adds power sure. But in these engines with no ignition.....too much and you need to lower the compression because it acts as a timing advance. That's why you can get away with 5-15% nitro and have similar power to one at 30%. Simply rasie the compression to get similar timing on the higher nitro.
I don't understand either how oil causes detonation.
The oils getting vaporized. What doesn't gets spit out the exhaust. Thats the oil that's keeping things lubed up.
I don't have misfiring brigs. As long as there's power and its not saving or bogging....why worry about the temp?
Maybe you need an extra shim or 2. Must be running them race engine right on the edge.
1 lean run or lean tank and I'm sure the damage is being done with 6-8% oil. Not enough fuel at 30k will starve it....but more importantly its not getting enough oil to keep up either. I'm sure a fuel with double that oil will protect more in case of a lean run.
I just don't buy that cars can go with less oil because they aren't under as much load.
Winding that little piston 600 times per second is quite the load I believe lol. If aero engine start to suffer with 10% oil then surely a car engine will too. Not to say it won't work or run...just a lot shorter.
I don't believe werks castor oil is better than others.
Their synthetic isn't equivalent to 18% oil. If its good enough for 40k then its surely good enough in any plane engine. Try it for awhile and let me know how it lasts.
Not average engine...cheaply made Taiwanese RTR engine's with poor tolerances ( HPI, LRP ) .....Average engine like a Novarossi or OS don't like high oil, nor do they need high oil to seal correctly.......Your clapped out basher engines that are loose and sloppy may run better with more oil , however a good engine with proper tolerances will not.....
Lower nitro with compression adjusted does not make similar power to higher nitro....wen both are set correctly more nitro makes more power.... This is something I know as I own a dyno and in the past have tested fuels.... High oil, low oil, high nitro, low nitro......
As for the castor oil in Werks...yes it is superior. we even have lab test from DOW chemicals comparing its properties to other top fuels lubricants........ without question the lube used is superior to almost all other fuels... especially something like Traxass...
Once you graduate beyond Tawianese RTR l engines I think you will start learning many of the things I am trying to tell you now....
And no 1 lean run doesn't destroy the engine with Werks..in fact I would guarantee a 40 000 RPM race engine would be far better protected with Werks then the home brew your making...Klotz lube is no match for Werks lube.....Your fuel would ruin a race engine and makes its performance unstable and intolerable....would also be severely down on power....
09-16-2014, 08:13 PM
#67
I can respect that. I guess I don't race so I don't know what its like to lose. Lol jk man.
I suppose it could be superior. I've started running 80/20 now. Klots lite and some benol. Its apparently been around a while. A bit lighter viscosity than the benol. I'd like to think a good synthetic is better than good old castor....but since I don't have time or money to try and test that I'll do 80/20.
Id really like to run 2 same engines, 1 straight castor and the other synthetic. Both leaned out to drive the temps way high. See which survives the longest.
Anyways....you made me try a small 200cc mix of 10% oil. 80/20.
Needed leaned out as usual on both needles.
Ivw been watching my temps closely with the high oil fuel. If its a bit lean temps will start going up and up. Didn't let it passed 300. At that setting it got to the rpm limit faster but didn't actually make much more rpms. I guess I can see a gun being handy with higher oil because yes its true.....a beginner is liable to keep leaning it. It will run but get hotter.
So I tried 10%. Tuned lsn and HSN. I tuned it a bit lean and ran it and temps went up to 260s before I stopped. Imagine it too would continue to 290+.
At this setting it didn't really make more rpms than high oil when a bit lean.
Proper tune that didn't have temps keep climbing....performed a bit better I suppose than high oil. Mostly just a bit crisper. But top rpm sounded close to same to my ear. It just wasn't worth it to me I guess. It ran in the 230s with a good tune. But so does the high oil tune. Towards the end of back to back tanks its a bit higher 240s sometimes more if its 90 out. Although any fuel will do that I believe. As the chassis is heat soaked by tank 2....then it leans out a bit when almost empty.
I didn't have a problem tuning with 10 or 18%. Both seemed equal enough as far as ease.
Once again...I'm not racing just running it hard in the yard. So what I do doesn't prove much.
Racers need run time a crisp response. Low oil does that. I needed to go over 2 hours leaner on HSN from 18 to 10. Not huge but it will save a few seconds per tank and run a bit crisper.
Question for you. How long does noticeable mechanical pinch last on your engines? Glow plug out cold?
Do you notice a performance increase when that goes away for the most part?
I suppose it could be superior. I've started running 80/20 now. Klots lite and some benol. Its apparently been around a while. A bit lighter viscosity than the benol. I'd like to think a good synthetic is better than good old castor....but since I don't have time or money to try and test that I'll do 80/20.
Id really like to run 2 same engines, 1 straight castor and the other synthetic. Both leaned out to drive the temps way high. See which survives the longest.
Anyways....you made me try a small 200cc mix of 10% oil. 80/20.
Needed leaned out as usual on both needles.
Ivw been watching my temps closely with the high oil fuel. If its a bit lean temps will start going up and up. Didn't let it passed 300. At that setting it got to the rpm limit faster but didn't actually make much more rpms. I guess I can see a gun being handy with higher oil because yes its true.....a beginner is liable to keep leaning it. It will run but get hotter.
So I tried 10%. Tuned lsn and HSN. I tuned it a bit lean and ran it and temps went up to 260s before I stopped. Imagine it too would continue to 290+.
At this setting it didn't really make more rpms than high oil when a bit lean.
Proper tune that didn't have temps keep climbing....performed a bit better I suppose than high oil. Mostly just a bit crisper. But top rpm sounded close to same to my ear. It just wasn't worth it to me I guess. It ran in the 230s with a good tune. But so does the high oil tune. Towards the end of back to back tanks its a bit higher 240s sometimes more if its 90 out. Although any fuel will do that I believe. As the chassis is heat soaked by tank 2....then it leans out a bit when almost empty.
I didn't have a problem tuning with 10 or 18%. Both seemed equal enough as far as ease.
Once again...I'm not racing just running it hard in the yard. So what I do doesn't prove much.
Racers need run time a crisp response. Low oil does that. I needed to go over 2 hours leaner on HSN from 18 to 10. Not huge but it will save a few seconds per tank and run a bit crisper.
Question for you. How long does noticeable mechanical pinch last on your engines? Glow plug out cold?
Do you notice a performance increase when that goes away for the most part?
Last edited by rcbence; 09-16-2014 at 08:17 PM.
