davidaxper

I ordered DX2.0 and put the TQ on eBay. Also ordered a roll cage from New Era.

I got the pull start replacement today and put through another tank of break in today. The thing has more off the line snap with break in settings than a well tuned 3.3... and this is on 5% nitro w/18% oil.

I sold a lot of the stock equipment, like: Radio, stock 3.3, spare OWB/Shaft, 3 different pipes, my Losi XXX-NT (Which I had no longer interest in)... and many other little parts/components that I can't remmember. This alone financed about 75% of my project.

When I'm completely finished, I can either update this thread with lots of new pictures and videos or make a new one

dkh210

I might try and get the Spektrum 3.0

bigsteel

My Feedback: (2)

im looking to do what you did but with the .26 truggy version of the "big red" is it the same size and did you just rotate the carb around to work with your linkage? thanks josh

davidaxper

Yes I just rotated the carb and setting up the linkage was not a big deal. You should be ok. Post up some pics of your project.

I ran my tanks 4 and 5 today. And and even with rich tune wheelies are a problem. It's gonig to be mental when I tune if for performance. I'm uploading a video to youtube now so I'll post it up. My rear drive shaft kept popping out of the drive cup and I don't have the extended arms. What do you think might cause this? What would be the best fix for this issue. You can wait for the video tomorrow if you're not sure what I'm talking about.

Thanks guys

bigsteel

My Feedback: (2)

are you strengthening the diffs or the tranny? i was looking into finding stronger diff and tranny gears but so far no luck...the thought of the money pit i could turn a BB power version of my revo into is kinda scary LOLjosh

davidaxper

I've heard too many horror stories of revo big blocks... shredded gears, broken drive shafts, etc... Also I've spoken with several revo BB owners that don't have problems with stock gears/shafts... so what's their secret? Common sense!!! Don't land from jumps with full power, adjust slipper properly. When the truck is overpowered for some reason, something has to give... and the slipper is there for a reason. If it's too tight, you will break something. If it's too loose, you'll lose power and melt the slipper. The way I have it is, tight enough so when I grab on to it with my two fingers and try move the truck backwards while pressing on it... it will barely slip. The video I am about to post will show you that this method gives enough grip for wheelies while still making the shift to the second gear smooth (meaning not slamming into 2nd) I'm sure others have some more experience with dealing with this... so maybe they can chime in too.

fabrimacator21

No luck? Look up robinson racing tranny and diff gears.

I run a full steel tranny with a picco .28 and she's taking some SERIOUS abuse without flinching. I had to put some aluminum diff cups in the front and rear but after that it's pretty much bullet proof.

bigsteel

My Feedback: (2)

thanks,i didnt know robinson made a full steel tranny gear set,sounds like i got a plan!josh

bigsteel

My Feedback: (2)

ok,i found the robinson racing forward only kit,i already have the center diff kit so what would the robinson kit replace? i dont want to lose my diff.if you could can you post a link to the gera set to use with a center diff?josh

davidaxper

Robinson racing has diff gears as well. Pricey though....

It took me a few hours to get this roll cage to fit just right. Needed to trim some plastic off the wing mount, use a spacer on the side where there is no stearing servo, and fiddling with the new radio.

I have to say, I am very happy with the way it turned out. Enjoy the pics.































This is my 3.3 with a THS pipe running on 5% plane fuel.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jLlZVVJML4c
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74N6yqOHt7U

And here it is with a big block

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpTk9t85Epw

Turb02

Ive been ordering the exact parts for my Big Red upgrade(minus the axles...yet)and found this thread. Ive got a few questions though. What flywheel/clutch setupare you using? Imade a carbon fiber engine brace and dont want to remove it for a huge flywheel since Iwont/cant use a bump start with the new era mount.

Since your build/break in, have you had any issues with your setup? What plug would you recommend for 20% nitro?

I know this is my first post on this forum but Ineed to know because Iwill be upgrading my basher hopefully over the next week, as parts arrive. Ill be running a dynamite 086 side pipewith aunknown style cage that Imightmodify for more protection for the pipe.


Thanks in advance.

davidaxper

I'm using Integy aluminum 3 shoe clutch flywheel and shoes and their 17T Bell and 36T spur... I know it's Ingegy, but it worked fine with the 3.3 and it works with this motor too. I recommend going 21T bell and 34T bell... trust me, on a Revo this motor will push any gearing you throw at it.

I upgraded both my center and wheel drive shafts to steel, may your motor have mercy on your plastic shafts lol.

The THS rear BB pipe is rather big, so some sort of roll cage is needed to protect it during roll overs. I got the new era one... it goes over the pipe and engine, pricey... but was worth it for me... since it can accommodate their bb mount and a .28 motor... I heard from another member that had the same pipe and broke it during roll overs. It's large and sticks out enough to touch the ground on rolls.

This motor on 20% fuel should run fine on a medium hot plug. I run a hot plug since I run on 5% fuel.

I am surprised that it has been trouble free for the past 1/2 gallon it has seen. The only minor issue I had is various screws loosening due to extra vibrations and power... especially the screws that hold all the drive shafts. Use locktite around the engine and driveshafts. Inspect for loose screws after each run...

Good luck and post up some pics/vids of your project

Turb02

Thanks for the input.  I was just thinking about having the new era mount and a side pipe, I think the side pipe will be really high due to the mount orientation for the motor.  I guess I will have to see once I get the mount in the mail.

Im sure I will go through the plastic shafts but the budget is tight right now so the steel shafts will have to wait.  Not sure how its gonna act with the locker in the rear either...

As for the gearing, that seems tall!  I only bash and dont do any long runs and that is why I was considering going 17 38 and see how that goes, thoughts on that gear combo?

davidaxper

Because the engine is tilted you need a custom/long header to fit a side pipe. Check my vid where I run it in the dry leaves... that's 17/36 combo and it's asking for more. With this gearing I can't drive on pavement without doing backflips. I would gear it higher not to do high speed runs... but to keep that power manageable. Even if you lock it into second gear it will still wheelie on takeoff... ... Locked rear diff will die as soon as you tune it after break in, trust me don't do it. It twists stock shafts with the 3.3... I can't imagine what it will do with the .28

Turb02

what do you mean the rear locked diff will die?  As for the gearing, I thought you mentioned clearance issues between the pull start and the a arm.  How will going to a larger CB affect this?

davidaxper

Locked diffs with bb engine twist axles, break diff gears... etc. It may last if you run on loose soil... as soon as you run on pavement those things will happen... search for yourself.

Rear arm and pullstart. On full suspension compression, with 17/36 arm barely touches the pull. May or may not be a problem during hard landings from big jumps. To move the pull away from the arm I would go to a smaller spur gear like 34t... so the engine tilts more away from the pull start. Also, you should run stiff springs and thicker oil in the rear suspension... due to extra weight of the engine and the extra stability needed with such power.

davidaxper

Also, you may look into replacing the pull with tiger drive. It has a thinner profile and may help you with your arm/pull clearance if you choose gearing that creates that problem

Turb02

My suspension is really stiff now but if I need to I will run a higher rate oil.  springs are good.

I dont run on pavement, I live in the country, its a MT not a street car!!

So I should look at integy bell and smaller spurs for my options, got it. Thank you David. 

I will post up pics when I get the parts, in a new thread of course

davidaxper

No problem. Good Luck.
I'm looking forward seeing another bb revo build.

Off topic but... I wonder if the TRX .26 that's supposed to come out will fit our Revos without clearance problems... we'll see...

Turb02

Well I mounted the motor last night.  It took a while to get it on there but I got it.  I had an issue with the throttle arm, needed to bend it up a little for it to open. It doesnt open all the way though, about 85%.  I placed the return spring where the New Era kit suggests and it "seems" to be a little finicky, like it doesnt want to return all the way closed.  Now Im thinking that I may need to recharge my rx battery and see if it opens the throttle all the way.

If that doesnt work, what should I do?  I have a new 2055 traxxas servo for my throttle.

I still gotta get the flywheel, new gearing, and intake system (my dog ate my motor saver!) and pipe before I can finalize the install but if you (David) can maybe shed some light on my issues, that would be awesome.

davidaxper

You're using the same exact kit and engine? If so you don't need to bend anything, it worked fine for me. Look at the pics in this thread again for help. Did you set your TQ radio to 75/25? that's the only way you can do it. It worked for me, tinker with it, it should work. Post a pic here of your linkage so I can take a look

Turb02

so..how is your flywheel farther out from the engine?  Mine sits really close to it?

I also see that you are running abearing on the outside of the CB, is there a washer between the bearing and the screw that holds in?

thanks again!

davidaxper

Flywheel is farther out because I added several shims between it and the block. Bearing outside the CB acts as a thick shim, nothing more. Then the screw. The kit comes with a thick shim, u can use that... but the extra bearing was thicker and was just the right size.

Turb02

hmm, ive gone through 2 clutch springs within 2 tanks of gas (tank 5 and 6 of break in) The spring doesnt seem to be sitting all the way down into the groove of the 3-shoe clutches.  Im using the traxxas clutch spring since the LHS told me that it was the correct spring for the integy FW and clutch kit.


Any input?  I need to get a spring so I can get this thing tuned in.

davidaxper

Did you get this clutch...

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXPUL7&P=FR

that's what I have... the indiv springs last until the shoes are worn out. You're not supposed to use trx spring with that clutch.