ELK

i just put it back together and now the steering doesn't works the brakes are always on and the engine rev extremly high then bogs down then fire back up.

RIP_nitrodan

My Feedback: (1)

Sounds like your radio might be having problems. If the servos aren't receiving signals, the brake/throttle servo could be stuck on BRAKE, and the steering wouldn't function.

Also sounds like you are running too rich. Lean the HSN.

rcslsafut

sounds like when you put it back together ,you put your servo horn out of time!!!!!

T-MaxxxedOwt

Make sure all the connectors on the receiver are all going the same way...The black wires all should betowards the outter edge of the unit

ELK

the servos move but the the steering one doesn't fully move to turn the wheels, when i put it back together i forgot to tighten the slipper clutch. so now it will go in a straight line but the brakes are still partially engaged.

snoking16

so adjust the linkage so they are not engaged unless you hit the breaks.

ELK

im tryin that its just mad confusing

RC Panda

Lean out engine and check to make sure all connection are in. Also check to make sure no wires have damage.

ELK

yea i leaned it out i think it is the glo plug, would a glow starter be better than the one on the ez-start.

Snook Man

Yes it would.

Also check that you didn't over tighten the pivot ball caps. If they are too tight,the servo will not be able to turn the wheels.

r/c 4 life

is this your frist time or what

ELK

its my second time puttin the truck back together but first time by myself

James c harrell

My Feedback: (18)

Don't get discouraged Joe. I thought I would go bald the first couple of times I went into mine. It really sounds like to me the pivot balls are to tight on your steering. Just loosen them up till you have a little slop in the wheel. If you put your finger on the joint of the pivot ball you can feel the movement when you rock the wheel. As far as the throttle-brake linkage, I would get the engine or throttle set up with a 1mm gap at idle and fully open at wide open set first with the brake dis-connected. Then set the brake. All of these adjustments done without starting it or any-thing. Like I said it can get real confusing but after a while, if you like it as much as I do, it gets just as fun to fix em as it is to run em. I get plenty of time to fix em too with a 14 year old that loves to drive em or should I say destroy em. It's all good.

ELK

thanks james someone that hasn't bashed me for once

James c harrell

My Feedback: (18)

I get enough of that from these two trucks! I spent most of the day making a new course for my son and ended up with a busted exhaust manifold, broke pull-start, and a broke rear shock tower!! Got to make those courses a little easier! To the work bench I go! By the way did you get yours going?

T-MaxxxedOwt

Joe ....snoking has a point about the pivot balls possibly being too tight.

They can be tight two ways..The ball can be set too close to the a-arms and the pivot ball cups could be too tight..

Try turning all front 4 pivot balls out 1 turn each and readjusting the streeing track straightness with the turnbuckles..

WhenI set my cup tension I snug them til I feel resistance then back off 1/8 turn..Sort of the same thing you do to set spindle mounted wheel bearings on a real car....

I put an end to all my steering problems in all my T-Maxxes by adding a second stering servo to them....now my bashers steer like the vid below...sorry for the poor vid quality..It was taken with my cell phone

TheT-Maxx in the vidjust has two standard Traxxas 2018 servospowered by6 volts 2450 mah of power and stock Traxxas 3 channel remote.My BiggMaxx has twin OFNA metal gear servos;-So does my MGT..The other Maxxes have Ofna's,HiTechs and Futabas..I also noticed when you use a true 12 voltsofbattery powerin the transmitter it actually works very well..most aa batteries are only 1.2 volts making the transmitter 9.6 volts with 8 batts...

http://s709.photobucket.com/albums/ww99/CAM2_photo/4908%20Wild%20Maxx/4908%20WildMaxx%20vids/?action=view¤t=M4V02814.flv

James c harrell

My Feedback: (18)

That is pretty cool. I have heard about two servoes but have not seen it. Couldn't see it in your pic so I cleaned it up. Hope I can get it up here. Think while I got mine on the bench I will have to try it. Thanks

T-MaxxxedOwt

Heres a few better ones for you...I took thisfrom the thread i posted...i also did the dual steering servosin my MGT8.0 and soon Im gonna do my Savage SS

T-MaxxxedOwt

heres how I did it.........



To acheive the dual steering servos the following tools are needed to complete this task: Dremel toolset with cutting wheels and the normal r/c car hand tools for dis-assembly....

For supplies youre gonna need a secondary bellcrank assembly,secondary servo plus additional servo mounts aswell as miscellaneous extra hardware like screws/nuts and washers and a y-connector for hooking the two servos together to add to the receiver box unless you have a receiver box with a 4th auxillary space like the Revos have...

snoking16

if you dont have the talent or tools to do the dual steering servo set up you can buy [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTHR3&P=ML]THIS[/link]

MPevine11

why with revos people take a servo out and just upgrade the single one, and with tmaxxes apperntly people are now adding another servo?

Snook Man

Two steering servos work for the cool factor but just like the revo you will have the continuing problem of the two servos fighting each other for center if not adjusted exactly.

I have done the two servo mod many times and each time I always revert back to a single high torque servo.

1 servo uses less power, is easier to adjust, lighter and less parts to break.



Even with my puller maxx I reverted to a single high torque servo. 1 was plenty of torque to turn even the Jumbo Kong’s.