Completed the nacelle and cowling fit-out today except for the throttle linkages.
I want to use either a clevis or ball link on the carburettor throttle arm rather than the Z Bend as suggested in the kit. I used the Z Band arrangement on my Dual Ace and felt that there was a little too much free play. Obviously with the twinsync, it will be beneficial to minimise any play on the throttles. I also noticed that the hole in the firewall for the throttle pushrod would be better in a different position, so I'll come back to throttle linkages later.
Cutting cowlings has always been a long job for me. I'm tend to take out a little less than I think, then refit the cowling, check, remove, dremel, refit etc etc etc. Perhaps I'm too fussy but I think the effort is worth it even if it did take all day to cut the two
Generally, I cut my cowls to allow removal without having to remove the muffler, but in this case, I felt it better to keep the structural integrity of the cowl and the finnish is much better this way for this aircraft.
You will notice that the hole cut for the needle valve is a little oversize, this is to allow access to the front muffler bolt and also to make it easier to remove the cowl without removing the whole needle valve assembly from the carburettor (I do need to remove the needle itself, but can live with that.) The small hole behind the needle valve allows access to the rear muffler bolt, and the hole underneath the carburettor is for adjusting the idle mixture.
I also fitted the nose cone using Three (one each side in the top stripe and one underneath) of those nice rivet head wood screws that I used on the nacelle cowlings.
I really couldn't come to terms with that moulded in "red light" in the nose cone........ I was going to paint it out with white, but I had a spare white LED and decided to put it in there instead. (not strictly scale, but it looks cool
I've included some photos of the lights on in full daylight, the photos probably show them a bit dimmer than they appear in real life but I expect that they will be quite visible in flight even in daylight.
Not photographed, but I fitted the fuel tanks as well. First job was to throw away the nylon tubes supplied with the tanks and bend my own from brass tube. Over the years, I have tried all sorts of fuelling systems, quick valves, etc. Eventually, these fancy systems all seem to fail, so I now fit all my planes with a three tube tank. The pressure/overflow tube bends up to the top of the tank and connects directly to the muffler pressure nipple. A single clunk is used on the pickup pipe which is then connected directly to the carburettor and the third pipe is bent down to the bottom/front of the tank and is connected to a standard 1/4 turn fuel dot. This way I can fill without removing any hoses, just observe overflow from the muffler when full and to drain the tanks at the end of the day, simply angle the plane nose down and drain through the fuel dot pipe. (pictures are a bit difficult but let me know if you want a diagram).