JET FX

Great thread guys, lots of great info especially the FM tips! Steve your DC-3 is going to be a show stopper for sure....

Ed, One question relating to FM Iam truly curious about...
If I sand the FM after application to my models surface to create a dull finish also sanding various adjacent panels in different directions to create opposing textured surface appearance then weather using artist chalks and finally create the desired finish I am looking for, how do I seal the finish without the clear coat filling finished panel grain and altering chalk weathering tones? is there a suggested method as I cannot see how you can seal finish without loosing all the fine sanding detail etc?

The models I want to do metal finishes on are a Mig 15 which will have various weathered panel textures. and an F-15 which would have vastly different coloured panels (Streak Eagle) I have no problems achieving desired look but I'm worried about then sealing with (clear top coat) and thus loosing the dull weathered effect..
hope what I am asking makes sense

Cheers-

FliteMetal

Not all pastels will turn dark when clear coated with PPG as a light flow coat. The finish, dulled by sanding will remain dulled. The panel lines will not fill in if you shoot a light flow coat. You can steel wool your clear coat lightly with 0000 to totally remove any sheen when finished...it will probably take a couple of hours to do. Using a crystal clear flow coat will seal the entire surface finish and prevent further oxidation.

Delta 3

Hey Steve,

It's been a while, I just received my wood from precision and had a few of the main fuse ply (F4, F6, through F9) broken in several places. Is this something that could be fixed or should I cut some new ones?

Did you start on the wing panels first and the fuse last? Is there an advantage?

Finally, It may be a stupid question, but how do you

Delta 3

I must have cut off my question.

How do you gain access to your v stab horn and push rod connectors?

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Could probabily fix them,I would let Larry know ,maybe he'll send you some replacements.I started the stab/elev fin/rudder first then jumped back and forth from framing the fuse,to building the wings and centre section.I have a pull pull setup for my rudder and if I remember there is no access at the rudder end.Everything is sheeted over there.Adjustments can be made at the servo end.One could make inspection panels there.
Quick update on mine;I just got some more pinking tape in and will resume finishing the ailerons soon.And then finish installing them and the flaps.Since flying season is here I had to get a couple of other planes ready as well.....you all know how that goes.

smokebox12000

Hi
Building my DC3 here in the UK saw your pics from a while back if you can remember
where did you get the hinges for the flaps on your DC3 never seen them before but they look good
Thanks Paul

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Just happen to be working on my flaps today Paul.I am using Robart Hinge Points,I think a piano type hinge would also work well.I finally got my ailerons setup and am currently adding servos to control the outboard flap sections.This was an afterthought,I was going to use inboard to out board linkage but decided there was too much chance for problems to occur , I just happen to have some JR 4721's available so I'm using those for that job...
Shouldn't take to much longer before I get on to metallizing this DC-3,next week sometime.

smokebox12000

Hi Steve
Thanks for the info first rate as usual, your DC3 is sure looking good mine has still to go through
its first inspection we have to have ours over here checked at certain stages before we can move on to the next stage. Anyway steve hope all goes well next week with the metal covering look forward to seeing
some pics when she is done
All the best
Paul

PS if the file uploaded the hinges i would like are shown in the photo.

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Those hinges are the ones I wanted to get also.I asked Kregg but never got a response if I remember right,maybe if you PM him you can get some info...

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Paul and Steve:

Check the Du-Bro catalogue or web site.

Bill.

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Finally starting to add some flitemetal ,starting with the fuse tailcone.I had to draw out the panel lines,then laid out some tape to reference the cut lines allowing 1/16" for overlap.Ended up with a couple of wrinkles that I'll work out later,but was pleased with the initial results.Next I'll keep moving towards the front of the fuse till the bottoms completed..

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

The more you use this stuff the easier the process becomes as long as you have a good sharp knife,otherwise you have problems.I also use Goo Gone to clean and lube the blade before each cut.Then I resharpen my blade with a pass over the fine belt sander.Works for me.Some more pics..

smokebox12000

Hi
Very nice work the Flite Metal does your work justice i have included a pic of my colour scheme
the actual aircraft is still used and is about 3 miles from where i live very handy, As usual a question
for you How did you join the inner and outer flaps i did see a pic somewhere of a pin through the
two to project the movement to the outer flaps. Keep up the good work and the pics flowing
all the best
Paul

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

I've seen it done with dowels into sockets,but after time ,wear causes a bit of sloppyness.Also seen steel rods into brass tubes.You install the rod and tube approximately an inch or so aft of the hinge line.I decided to go with 4 flap servos to keep things simple with no linkage worries.I'm sure there are other ways out there Paul..

..that Air Atlantic scheme is really nice,it makes me want to consider a civi paint scheme....Steve

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Update;Still working on the tail section,the lower surfaces are finished and am now doing the top.Time consumeing work,hopefully I'll get it done this summer.I'm still wondering about how I'll be applying my rivits.And I don't want to use clear drying rivits.I want aluminum ones where there is unpainted aluminum surfaces.Do you add aluminum powder to the mix Ed ?

F86_SABRE

Here is your answer Steve:

http://www.su27projekt.de/seite7.htm

I suppose the round tip of the screwdriver would be lightly applied over FLITEMETAL as I suppose that this type of covering is soft.

Harald has made a nice project of this SU-27

Anyway, enjoy

Reuben

wotfly

Absolutely Brilliant ! Your Photography and Publishing skills are second only to your Building Skills.

We are another two U.K guys who are in the process of starting a Ziroli based DC-3 Build, we weren't quite sure if we wanted to do it until another Brit. ( smokebox12000)thanks, put me in touch with this great web site.

Having now studied your Building, we are itching to get at the plans when they arrive.

If we can do it half as well as you Steve, we will be welll pleased..............

Keep up the good work , very impressive.

Regards Pete .

FliteMetal

Hi Steve:

Just dropped in to check on where you might be on the DC-3.. WOW, you've not let moss grow between your toes on this. We're about to begin our new application and finishing instruction "booklet" to bring all the latest how-2's and why's for applying and finishing Flite-Metal.

The most appropriate manner of recreating flush rivets is with two shades of metal paint as described within the Rosie Riveter site. However I believe you'd be hard pressed to find flush rivets on a DC-3

Metal powder can be added to polymer resins we use for our rivet material. The only concern I would have is the powder being darkened beyond what you want for your rivet color.

Looking good! Be sure to burn me a CD of your images and add some blurbs about your Flite-Metal application if you'd like to have your DC-3 included in our new How-2 and Finishing Instructions.

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks guys;Found some time to do a little more work with the FM.Right now I'm working the wing fillet area.Things are going prettty smoothly to this point.The fillet is going on with no problems.Lots and lots of panels to apply but if you keep at it,things begin to appear like they are getting done a lot quicker.

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

These inclimate temps sure encourage the builders to keep building because it's to damn cold and wet to fly,which is a good thing for my DC-3 progress.The underside of the fuse is now complete,as is the right fillet and fuse up to the windows.I'll go back to the tail section now and work forward again to complete the right side.Note on the first pic that I'm pushing my knife which allows for a clear view to "steer"the blade in a straight line or around a curve.I find it much easier to push the blade rather than pulling it,although I'm sure everyone has their own methods including pulling the knife...

FliteMetal

Hi Steve:

Using the various curved Xacto and other brand blades which are semitar in shape will provide an easier solution to your cutting from heel to toe with these blades. If mineral spirits is dropped onto a cotton ball in a "peanut butter jar top" (note this has to be Peter Pan brand only) and you lightly dab your blade edge in it between cuts...your cuts will be smoother than ever with the semitar blade. You might experiment with the diameter of the handle as well. Some customers say its easier or more comfortable with a slightly larger diameter handle. Looking good! I'm curious, how much overlap did you decide to use on your DC-3?

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks Ed:I'll try some other blade types I'm sure through this process.I like the bigger handles also.My overlaps are mostly 1/16" ,some are 3/32".

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Ed:

In my experience, the "JIF" brand peanut butter jar lids work better than "Peter Pan" brand for holding the mineral spirits/cotton ball.

Haw.

Bill.

FliteMetal

Bill: No other brand comes close to supporting Flite-Metal than Peter Pan. Ever look under that paper seal on each and very jar? Yeah, you got it...Flite-Metal sealed for freshness... If it aint Pan, it aint real peanut butter...ask Cap'n Hook. Tic Toc, Tic Toc, Tic Toc...That's no crock...

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

What about mineral spirts,any brand names?