CollectivelySpaced

My Feedback: (18)

Here are some pics of the DC-3 I was talking about, unfortunately I wasn't expecting to take any pics that day and all I had was a disposable camera - hence the bad quality.

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks CS,The control surfaces are covered in fabric(Sig Coverall) ,then the fabric was filled with Polybrush,finally they were painted in aluminum dope after the tape and stitching were done.I guess it looks like aluminum in the pics.I think if I build another one I'd build it bigger to accept one of the larger radial engines and add the cargo doors also...Steve

CollectivelySpaced

My Feedback: (18)

From what you describe it sounds exactly how the control surfaces on the full scale DC-3 looked to me, covered in fabric and then painted.

As I said before, excellent job - Keep up the good work!

richblin

Hi-
I am applying final scale touches to a 1/8 scale C-47, built in all-composite fiberglass/wood material. Basically this is a Ziroli design, but it has more wingtip washout and a slightly increased wingspan of 150 in. The model is based on "Dakota" L-BW, now exhibited in the flight museum at Oslo airport. This C-47 was built in 1943, was the last one to fly in the Royal Norwegian Air Force and was often used as a VIP transport by the late King Olav V. My engine installation is twin Saito 200Ti inline v-twins. As you can see they will only be visible on the cowling undersides with the cylinder tops slightly protruding. I expext this power outfit will invite a rather conservative throttle use for scale-like flying , as this is one light C-47!
Best regards
Richard Blindheim

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Nice work Richard;I guess you will be waiting till Spring before you fly like myself,just wondering,what does it weigh?

richblin

Hi Steve-
Yes, you're right. I'm waiting until spring when snow and freezing temperatures have cleared with this one - despite pressures from various friends to get the "Dak" airborne asap !
Haven't weighed it yet, but this should not be a problem as it's constructed light and strong.
Best rgds
Richard

richblin

Here are a few more shots of my motor installation, from the underside with cowlings on. APC 18x6W props for running in.
Best rgds
Ricard B.

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Those Saitos must sound pretty sweet running together Richard.Keep in touch and let us know how she flys next Spring..

richblin

Sure. I'm more of a glow than gasoline man anyhow, so I first thought about twin Moki 180 2-strokes but landed on the Saitos for the sound...
Best rgds
Richard

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Richard I was just admiring your glow plug connectors,I haven't seen them before and was wondering were I might pick up some.I just got my exhaust ring collectors from Keleo and are they ever nice.Kelvin did some mods to accomodate the DC3 and he did it at no extra charge.Great guy to deal with.

richblin

Hi Steve,
Just two regular glow plug remote connectors, connected to one glow socket on the side/underside of each cowling. Can't remember where they came from, but most manufacturers have them. Likely I'll fit some electronic glow units to ensure low and reliable idle and transition.
What are you fitting on your radials?
Rgds
Richard

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Sonictronics system with six leads powered by a 4.8volt nicad.I just got it.Should do the trick,I have to do a bit of soldering to attach the leads and charging plugin etc.......

richblin

Steve-
Good idea. From my experience with the Saito 170, the right lower cylinder sometimes tends to go "sour" and can die without such a system to assist. Had this engine on a Sea Fury first, then on a PT-23 (actually a bashed PT-19), nice sound there out in the open. If one cylinder stopped a power dive would usually bring it back, but this method is not always so practical
BTW, this has likely been discussed before: re cockpit kits for the 1/8 DC-3 - is Dynamic Balsa the best? And which whole body little pilots in say 1950's uniforms would fit?
Thanks
Richard

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

I had the same sort of flameouts with mine on a Top Flight SR9 with a Saito 170R Richard,It had an onboard system that was progammed to lite up at the low end and if and when I had a cylinder flame out it was dicey especially when your only 50' in the air.It always came back to life when I lite it up though.Yes Dynamic Balsa has the DC3 cockpit kits ,I just scratched mine because theres not much to see in those small windows.My pilots are the ones from Ziroli,they are military but one could change'em to civilan...Steve
ps ...........got my other S-170R in yesterday..

Zero

My Feedback: (42)

Hi Steve
I have followed your building since November 2004. Great looking plane. I still have not started mine yet. I cannot make up my mind
between a DC-3 and a C-47. The DC-3 offers so many different paint schemes and they a beautiful in Airline Colors. I have a set of plans for a British Horsa Glider used during WW2. Some of these were pulled by the C-47 however not many. I have seen a C-47 with a Waco glider in tow. There are two guys in the Sarasota, Florida club which each have this set up. I wanted something different thus the Horsa. Keep us posted as to the progress. Again Great Job.

mulligan

What's the word on rivets, Steve? If I missed it in an earlier post, I'm sorry.

Kelvin did a great job- knew he would. I can't wait to see you (well, the plane at least ) in Woodruff.

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

I may not use raised rivits,instead I may use something else,I haven't decided yet.I'm still working on the centre section,I'll post some pics soon.

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Just about finished the centre section.I still have to finish installing the onboard glow system and a few other things.The front of the cowl was a bit of work to cover with FM.After a few attempts to cover it in three sections,I ended up using the butt end cut method that layed down with no overlaps.It took 16 panels to cover this area.After the panels were laid down I sanded the area with scotchbrite to fill any panel line gaps and then rubbed down the panel lines to render them almost invisable.Still lots to do...

FliteMetal

My goodness Steve....Its The Look Of The Real Thing....excellent!
Your time investment is paying off. Next time, instead of using the
Scotch Bright to blend diagonally between multiple panels, use
200 wet~dry then work up to 1100.

What overlap are you using on the balance of the fuselage...1/32nd?

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Ya know how you get that sting in your eye just before a tear pushes. Just happened. MAN thats nice. I just gotta think this is a contest winning plane.
Edwin

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks Guys;Its been an enjoyable experience building and covering this airplane.The panel lines on the fuse are 1/16th approx Ed

F86_SABRE

Perhaps a practical example of how you covered it Steve?

Reuben

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Ruben;have you been working on your DC-3?A good description of how to apply flite metal is on the website www.flitemetal.com ,it gives you a good picture and detailed desciptions of the procedures.I'm basically finished the centre section.All the plumming and wireing is in place ready for testing.Just the final detailing like rivits ,panels etc.Now on to the outboard panels...heres a few pics of the center section installed on the fuse.

F86_SABRE

Hi Steve,
Thanks for the nice shots. You have done a marvellous job. Congrats!

Well The DC-3 is still in the hangar unfinished. I have the wings all ready for covering but I want to go the PROSKIN (fiberglass sheeting) way. However, at the moment I am doing a Yellow Aircraft At-6 which is at an advanced stage and I have a Kangaroo turbine trainer at the painters. It is likely that I will embark again on the DC-3 once these two jobs are done.

Yes I know that FLITEMETAL have a description there but since you have undertaken quite a big job of covering the model I am sure that you are an expert at that job now!

Will it still be the Canadian Search & Rescue scheme?

Anyway, again...a nice job indeed.

Reuben

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks Ruben;Sounds like you have your hands full also.Yes the experience with flitemetal becomes more rewarding and it becomes easier to apply as time goes on.I think I'll be doing a Spitty in 1/4 scale next with this material.I have the Mick Reeves short kit waiting on the shelf.I'm also thinking of doing a big Piper Navajo 114" span.
I'm still undecided on the colours for my DC3,the original plan was to do it in RCAF colours but I may just go with a civilian/cargo paint scheme.