Jimmy Bananas

My Feedback: (13)

Well I believe I found the paint scheme for mine...Will have the paint specially made and intend to use automotive type....Scheme is for a C-130E, based in Japan...21st Tactical Airlift Sq. The colors are:

FS 34079 Dark Green
FS 34102 Medium Green
FS 30219 Dark Tan
FS 36622 Camouflage Gray
FS 37038 Flat Black

Very few markings on the plane..Just the serial # on the rudder and 4 star and bars ( Very Small) and thats it..Like I said before,will paint it next spring...Heck, might even change my mind about engines..I figure the plane is going to weight around 25 Ibs with 4 Mag's 36 2 stroke engines....Sure would like to have 4 Saito 40's 4 strokes....More reliable when inverted...and a much nicer sound.....

Right now ,am working on a 3 engine Italian bomber...Heeeeeeeeeeyyyyyy,thats Italian :-))....And it's not "Honey Do " time either..am divorced..

Thanx for all the info Jim and Randy....

fossil

My Feedback: (25)

I have the Quality Fiberglass kit, but haven't started it yet. I have to admit I am a little intimidated by it. I bought mine second hand and instructions for completing this kit are not very good. I am a good builder but use to having instructions to help me. I am an Active duty Air Force Loadmaster on the C-130 (thats why I got it) I have over 4000 hours on E and H models including 6 years stationed at the Lockheed plant flying the new J model. Any help or a place to get better instructions for completing this bird would be appreciated.
fossil

c130nut

Hey Jim... you were talking about putting stringers in the fuse to help with the flex. I have another model that had a similar problem, but the put carbon fiber strips down the wing to keep it rigid. Do you tink that 1/2 in. carbon strips with thinned expoxy put on & under them would make them rigid enough?
Bill

Oh.... when you guys were getting ready to mount the nacells, did you put all of the "stuff" inside of them first? Give me some advise on the insides of these and tips on the subject of nacells

bill R.

rryman

My Feedback: (2)

Fossil, I felt the same way about mine when I got it. But, if you study the plans by section, it isn't too bad. Certainly not a beginners kit, but it actually goes together rather nicely. I got lots of help from Jimcork and some others on here, plus made some of my own changes as I went. I have been making a running account of the building of mine in digital pics, so if you would like a shot of some of the things I've done I'll send some pics if you send me your email address. I am assuming that you did get two plan sheets with the kit you bought in addition to the 8 1/2 x 11 sheet??
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C130nut, all the "guts" inside the nacelles are built on a frame that slides into the nacelle, and likewise slides out as a unit. I did mine a little different from the way Jim did, but hope it works out. I did install an access panel at the back of each nacelle for ease of hooking up the throttle servo wire, and routing also. The servo lead hole that goes from the center of the wing to the aileron and throttle servos passes right under this access panel. Jim mentioned that hooking up the throttle servo lead could be tricky, so I decided to make it a little easier. I'm big on being able to get to stuff when you need to. I like being able to pop off an access panel to get to something rather than having the frustrations of not being able to check it-especilly when I'm at the field, which is usually when you need to do the checking!
Randy

fossil

My Feedback: (25)

rryman I need to check to be sure but all I got was some 8 1/2 x 11 sheets of paper with some info on the kit, I don't believe I got any plans. I need to check to be sure, I'll check tomorrow. I would like to see the pics of your construction that you said you would send me, my email addy is: [email protected]
Thanks,
fossil

rryman

My Feedback: (2)

No wonder you thought the directions were a bit "skimpy"! You should have two (2) 24" x 36" plan sheets in there somewhere. If you don't you could contact Bob Sealy at Quality Fiberglass at 931-526-4770. Also got your email and will be forwarding some pics direct to you.
Randy

fossil

My Feedback: (25)

Thanks I'll call Bob and looking foward to the pics.
fossil

c130nut

There are two sheets of plans that came along with my kit.
Bill R.

jimcork1

My Feedback: (4)

The 2 stringers I installed were in the floor under the landing gear box. The box installed alone would result in the entire floor flexing unacceptable. (Based upon the first few landings it was good i put in the stringers)

The stringers were 36" long 1/4x1/4 and I cut a slot in the LG box for them. After they were epoxied to the floor I put 4 oz glas over them to strengthen. This has worked out well and added little weight.

c130nut

how far apart were the stringers? Do you think Carbon Fiber would work?
Bill R.

bobbyq

My Feedback: (1)

It appears that quite a few of my C-130 kits are under construction. The average modeler is always full of good ideas that they can do to improve on someone else's design. Numerous people have expressed a desire to stiffen the fuselage. Most builders that have done so, have done so with success. Most of these planes appear to have a flying weight in the mid 20 pound range. At this weight, a slightly stiffer fuselage is desired. The prototype has no stiffening, is laid up just like the kit version, and flies at 14 pounds. At this lower weight, the flex in the fuselage is not a problem. The prototype flies with OS 26 four strokes, and flies quite well. It will maintain altitude at about 3/4 throttle. It does not have any power to spare, as most of the flight is at full throttle, but this is my style of flying. Build it with adequate power, not excessive power. To each his own. One local modeler is building his with a rear ramp and plans to drop parachutists. My c-130 was built as simple as possible, just four channels, no electronic mixing of any type, and a color scheme to match, primer grey to match the Tennessee Air National Guard. On the other end of the scale, I see many of you installing retracts, flaps, door ramps, and many other add ons. All of these featrures really help to enhance the looks and flyability of your C-130. Again, personal preference, plane jane, or a Cadilac. Of course, the Cadilac is far more impressive. Enough for now. I am currently working on the tooling for a Lockheed Constellation with about a 114inch or so wingspan. Hope to have the prototype ready to fly by March. Gotta go, Bob Sealy Quality Fiberglass

rryman

My Feedback: (2)

Well, I liked the primer grey scheme also. The late model gunships have pretty much gone to that as standard. But, believe it or not, the wife said she liked the camo look, I guess because my AC-47 is done that way, so I think I'll go with that, to keep them alike and please the little woman. She doesn't mind the hobby, and has never once said, "How much did that cost?" (lucky for me!!) I also take care not to leave any invoices laying around either!!!
Randy

jimcork1

My Feedback: (4)

Wow 14#'s.. I guess I build heavy with 23#. Mine flies on 4 saito .30 and will fly very slowy at 2/3 throttle. Very stable I might add. Stalls are very soft and it just slowly drops a wing, usually the left wing. Perhaps due to torque.

I only added a small bulkhead to attach the leading edge of the removable stab, and one for the nose wheel.

These were only 1/2 bulkheads and not full cover the open fuse. No other bulkheads were added. I did have to cut out the cockpit to reach the retract nosewheel.

Still weigh 23# wet. Jim

B Vial

I just thought I would jump in here and let you all know how I go about filling pin holes. I put some primer in a jar. I usually use some epoxy primer as it is most compatible with different paints although I have also used 21st Century and automotive sandable primers out of a spray can too in a pinch by just spraying it into a jar. Next pour some micro balloons into another jar. Use a 2 inch brush and dip it into the primer. Next dip it into the micro balloons loading up the brush quite well with them. Now paint this mixture all over the whole model's fiberglass surface. I know, I know... it looks very ugly and very bumpy. But you use a good sandable primer along with the micro balloons and you would not believe how easy it is to sand off using some medium to fine grit paper.

This also works excellent on filling the glass weave of a wing that has a balsa skin and fiberglass outer coat. Don't add multiple coatings of heavy epoxy to fill the weave, use the lighter primer/micro balloons slurry to fill it.

When you get the surface completed and apply a first true coat of primer and sand and you do find you missed still a couple of pin holes now you may use that spot putty. Its better to use it only in a couple of holes than a 1000 that seams of fiberglass models have to start with.

rryman

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for that information on the microballons. I'll admit,it doesn't sound that good, but I'm willing to give it a try. Little too late for this one, as I started putting on the paint today.
A friend of mine also told me about something available at auto body supply stores called "Body Butter" or "Body Batter", don't know which, but it is supposed to be a polyester filler especially for filling holes in fiberglass, and it won't shrink like putty will. I'm also going to give that a try one of these days. I guess tomorrow I'll find out how much weight I've added with the paint. All I have left to do is assemble the plane and apply the camo to the top surfaces. the other 80% is gloss black.
Randy

Smoky

Hi guys. Gorgeous Planes! I like em.

I just have to add my two cents on the 2 vs 3 blade prop question.
A 2 Blade 10x6 prop would change over to a 3 Blade 9x7 prop. Not a 9x5.
A Rule of thumb is, from 2 to 3 Blade, (1 inch in diameter decrease, and 1 inch in pitch increase).
This is just a suggestion of where to start. hopefully to save you some money.

The Three Blade Prop is very inefficient compared to the two blade.
The ONLY advantage to a 3 Blade Prop is Clearance issues. They are also about 3 times the price of a good 2 blade prop.

FWIW.
Rick.

rryman

My Feedback: (2)

I'm running 3 blades on my AC-47, but only because it is overpowered in the first place with .40's. It looks good on the ground, and something about 3 blade props sound better. I lose enough efficiency with them to make the airplane fly pretty scale.
Years ago I conducted a prop test when I built a Royal B-25. As UN-scientific as it was, it gave me what I believed to be accurate data among props. I had a scale hooked up with a pulley arrangement to a pull cord which was attached to the tail of the airplane, which was sitting on a smooth piece of plywood. the three blade props simply don't cut it as far as static thrust is concerned. Sure would be nice to find a 3 blade that would work with this Herk though. You know, someone ought to come up with a chart for this. I've seen all of the suggestions of what you should do, maybe we should put together something solid. I just like the looks when you taxi in and shut down the engines and those 3 bladed fans come to a stop. But, I guess everyone has their little quirks!!
Gotta go, time to put some camo on this bird. It's 30 deg., 20kt. winds and 9" of sonw on the ground, I think it will be lonnesome at the field today, so I'll hold up in the garage!
Randy

rryman

My Feedback: (2)

Here it is with the paint attached and the son-on-law checking it out.
Randy

c130nut

GREAT JOB!!!! You know, oyu guys are making me feel a little lazy! I really gotta get back on my C130. Maybe I will go ahead and work on the body over the holidays and start on my "new" wing from bob sealy after I finish the body stuff. He cut it for me Friday. I just think that I need to redo the wing like it should have been done in the first place. Looking back at the first wing project, I am going to do the wire channels differently, and add flaps. OH IS ANYONE RUNNING ANY SORT OF AMPLIFIERS OR SPECIAL FILTERS FOR THE LONG SERVO EXTENSIONS?

Bill R.

rryman

My Feedback: (2)

----------OH IS ANYONE RUNNING ANY SORT OF AMPLIFIERS OR SPECIAL FILTERS FOR THE LONG SERVO EXTENSIONS?
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I'm not planning on it at the moment. I 've never had a problem before, although I do use hevy duty extensions and "Y" connectors. Don't know if I mentioned it before, but I am adding RAM landing lights and a rotating beacon. I've never had either on a plane before. The rotating beacon will have it's own 9v battery on a switch, and the landing lights will operate from the gear channel. Couldn't get the landing lights to work, but the directions said I might need an amplifier and that came today from RAM. Might get that stuff installed tonight. I did weigh everything last night, and all up dry weight is now 18#, less what it will take to balance it. I'm hoping the battery packs in the nose will help that out. I'm also putting in a JHM flight battery back up that I currently have in my Edge 540. I'm either going to do that or put in a dual system.
Randy

gunny11

My Feedback: (6)

hi, for those guys who are currently flying their c-130's, can you tell us what the control throws are for the elevator and ailerons. there is no suggestions for throws on the plans or the two instructional sheets.
thanks

gunny11

rryman

My Feedback: (2)

Excellent point, Gunny, I guess Jimcork is the only one who can anwer the throw issue, since he's been burnin' up the sky with his. Mine will probably be ready to go shortly, but I'll be down for weather till about spring.
Randy.

gunny11

My Feedback: (6)

yes i'm ready to start on mine. time to buy alot of 1/16" balsa wing sheeting and hope to have it ready by end of spring

rryman

My Feedback: (2)

For what it's worth, I bought 48" sheets to do the center section of the wing so it would go end to end without any splices. I think it will probably help the strength of it.
Randy

rryman

My Feedback: (2)

12/13- Today I managed to get all 4 engines broke in according to OS manual. Ran about 8-9 oz. of fuel through each one during break in. All 4 are turning a 9 x 5 master airscrew at 15k. +- 50rpm. I think I can live with that. Can't wait to hear all 4 of them singing in harmony! reinstalled all engines on their respective pods and mounted in nacelles this evening. After some rough checking, it appears that I won't need much nose weight, if any, to balance the thing. Still have to add the cowlings, props and spinners, which is all ahead of the CG, so it might be close. I currently have a 1100mah pack in the nose and plan on putting in at least a 1500. I should know for sure in the next few days. Still, I'm shooting for slightly under 20# dry.
Randy