pilot727

DR. Doom
It is people like you that help so many others in this fine hobby, you have done a great job, rollie

drdoom

My Feedback: (9)

It works flawlessly, Here it is with the wheels.

Here is the clip. http://www.rcuvideos.com/view_video....ae1dcd16df71fd

Another clip. http://www.rcuvideos.com/view_video....ad8476f5f7efb2 even under 20 Lbs of air , it will restand it self.

Tjetfire94

Hi, i was just wonderin if i should get one of those JHI C-130s and put 4 MW 44 or 54 turboprops on it. And maybe cargo doors etc.
I also figured out a way to drop little paratroopers out the back in flight.

drdoom

My Feedback: (9)

Parts from my 102 inch C-130 Nacelle with panel lines, hatches and double air scoop's on the chin.
Not Flawless. But will be nice when finished. Handmade retracts work Flawless.

jimcork1

My Feedback: (4)

How's the building going. Been away a while. Replaced #4 engine on my Herk with factory warranty rebuilt engine. Fuel just arrived and possibly I can make the Mobile fly in next month. Jim

jimcork1

My Feedback: (4)

Here's the update on the Herk #4 engine. Got it back from Horizon rebuilt, they did a nice job. Ran it on the bird and it would die after about 80 seconds. I swapped carbs with Engine #5 (spare) and engine #4 ran well. Disassembled carb from engine #4 and found the smallest foreign object in the fuel nipple just before the needle valve. I tried to remove it with a pin and could not. 125# psi air pressure blew it out. All is well. Test run of #4 engine for full throttle burned an entire tank of fuel. Then I ran all 4 engines at full throttle for a full tank to verify the problem was solved. I used the last of fuel in my fuel jug. I packed up and went to Mobile for fly in. Opened new gal of (same type / brand ) fuel and filled tanks. I could not get any of the 4 engines to run. I started #1 and it would not hold needle setting so I thought plugged needle. Spent about an hr on #1. Then it was running marginally so I tried to start the remaining 3 engines. They started but would not hold setting and would die. Then I had a brain [8D] and thought fuel,, new gallon. I borrowed some Mac 7 15% fuel (I normally run 15% all syn ) and gassed up. In about 5 minutes I had all 4 engines running perfect. I made 1 flight on the borrowed fuel which was probably the best flight in 3 years (given Katrina took me out for a while). Pics attached.

I won't mention brand of bad fuel but I plan to call mfg Monday. Jim

gator8287

Is this thread still alive I am currently working on a 100" C-130 arf and am going electric.

penceaviation

Anyone still on this thread? I'm about 30 days away from having a scratch built 105" span c-130 done and I'm thinking about pulling a mold from it if anyone is interested in a short kit. I'm thinking fiberglass nacelles, fiberglass body and wing/ tail foam cores for about $300. Drop me a line if you are interested.

rryman

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..............................I'm thinking fiberglass nacelles, fiberglass body and wing/ tail foam cores for about $300

That's about what the QF kit consists of. Think I paid $350 for mine, delivered. There were lots of people trying to get one of those before that ASM C-130 ARF came out. I haven't really kept up with how popular that one has been. My QF kit is still going strong.
Put some feelers out and see what kind of response you get, just like some of the manufacturers have done. I remember one case where they advertised a kit , and it was a full year before anyone got one.
In any event, if you could do one for $300, that would certainly be a bargain as far as I'm concerned.
Good Luck,
Randy

SUPRAMP

hey guys. i just acquired a set of prints for a 65" c-130. i think im going to go electric with it. the plans say it cand do either glow or electric, but calls for O.S. .10 engines, so i think im going to go with 400 long cans. the plans are balsa not fiber, but id rather not monokote it. is their a way to seal the balsa and paint it. it calls to fully balsa sheet it so i was curious. ill take any advice i can get. i also want to use alot of the ideas ive seen in htis thread. it took my hours to read it all, but theirs some great stuff, and alot of experience. obviousely i cant do alot of the air stuff because weight is a big factor but im going to try. any advice about the coating though

rryman

My Feedback: (2)

I have the Quality Fiberglass Herk, and on the sheeted surfaces, wing and horizontal stab, I used 3/4 oz. fiberglass cloth and Minwax "Polycrylic water based protective coating." It is the water base version of polyurethane. It doesn't hurt foam if it gets on it, and it fills well, dries fast and doesn't smell nearly as much as epoxy or fiberglass resin. Some use .5 oz. fiberglass, guess that's a preference. The fiberglass cloth blends around contours really well. My monokoting skills are minimal, despite years of doing it.
Anyway, lay down the cloth, and brush on the Minwax. Let it dry, and add as many more coats as you think necessary to achieve the finish you want. Then wet sand.
There's a lot of ways to do it and products to use, but this has become my choice for finishing when I don't use iron on covering. And, as far as that, I prefer Ultracote over Monokote. Seems to work better for me.
Randy

SUPRAMP

so your suggesting to fiberglass over the balsa, or just urethane it?

rryman

My Feedback: (2)

I suppose the fiberglass does offer some structural stability to it, but I guess you could put the urethane directly to the wood if you wanted to. Personally, I would use the light weight cloth and the urethane. The cloth would add very little more weight, and also help fill over slight imperfections in the wood.
Years ago, we did have someone come to the field with a completely naked plane. They had framed it up, was a balsa fuse and sheeted wing, put the radio and engine in it, and was going to fly it. Someone told him that if he flew it and got exhaust oil on the balsa, he would have a difficult time covering it, plus the fact that the iron on covering offered some streength to the wing. He said he wanted to see if it flew before he went to the trouble of covering it. Don't remember if he flew it or not.
Randy

SUPRAMP

is it harder to cover with light weight cloth than with ultracote, and does it look good. i mean im goin to airbrush it with all the details, and im running electric so oils and fuels wont be an issue. and if its not to much to ask, what is the cloth called, and where online can i purchase it. theirs no hobby stores within 500 miles of me, so i have to do it all online, thanks for the patience and the insite Randy
~mike~

rryman

My Feedback: (2)

is it harder to cover with light weight cloth than with ultracote, and does it look good..............
======In my opinion, using the fiberglass cloth and the water based urethane is easier than using ultracote on a C-130, primarily due to all the curves and contours involved around the nacelles, etc. I find it much easier to get the cloth around those curves than iron on coverings. You can add coats of urethane and sand until you are satisfied with the surface. I finished my Herk as a AC-130 gun ship of the 70s, and being a combat aircraft, I wanted some weathered look to it.
But, like I said, I'm not that good at iron on coverings, and I've been doing it for 30 years. (guess I should be pretty good by now!)

what is the cloth called, and where online can i purchase it.============
=====It's called fiberglass cloth, and tower has it at the website below. I don't know if you have anyone closer than that, but doing a search, you should be able to find it.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXL491&P=ML

I once fiberglassed a pattern ship with fiberglass cloth and resin, mainly because we had a guy in the club who knew how to do it and I always wanted to try it. It was a very messy, smelly deal, but the results were fantastic. Took as long to fiberglass and paint it as it did to build the plane. Painted it with arcrlic lacquer, then buffed it to a mirror finish. It's the last one I did like that.
Randy

SUPRAMP

Randy, thanks for all the information. you have no idea how much of a help you have been, i really do appreciate it, and everyone who has put entries on this 5 year thread.
How much do you know about electric? with this plane being 65" wingspan, and doing what i can to lighten it slightly, and adding 2 or three extra micro servoes and possibly a small air system for retracts, do you think 4 Graupner long can 400s running parallel off a single 50 amp ESC will be enough to power it? or any other suggestions, and thats if i go with a thin layer of the 3/4 oz fiber. or if you know of a better setup that wont cost me an arm and a leg.
I know youv helped so much already, but i figured you might know, or if anyone knows, please help. as you can tell i havent been doing this for 30 years, but only a couple. and this plan makes me so ambitious. i mean i am an mp in the army, and ive been on the spetres a few times and on the c-130's many times, so it means alot to me, thanks for the help
~mike~

gator8287

I use a single esc per engine rated at the engine amprage, with seperate battery for each engine. This has worked well for me where some of my friends have had troubles running one esc or powering all engines from one battery source. I also use the 100+ watts per lb as referance to power. Useing this formula I have a twin Bronco 3.5 lbs with 3300ma 3s1p packs and have goten 15 min flight times and have only put 1150ma back in the pack during chargeing. I am using the same set up for my c-130 110" and 81 " Bronco. May not be the right way but it works for me. Hope I have been able to help

rryman

My Feedback: (2)

Sorry, Mike, can't help you with the electrics. (yo would think that an electrician could, though, wouldn't you!!). I just never got into them deep enough to know anything about it, but there are lots of others on here that can help.
Good Luck,
Randy

gunny11

My Feedback: (6)

I would glass the wings and put some sort of spar in it. Mine is still going strong too. Flies so good.

Check out this video I found on youtube.

[link]http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=5333242407553588856&q=c-130&total=3430&start=10&num=10&so=0&type=search&plindex=4[/link]

gunny

longflyer

hey guys i started painting my c130.. got 14 foot span est weight 50 lbs 4 65's to move it i hope.
check out scratch built c130 on the forum.
john

gunny11

My Feedback: (6)

can you post pictures of the paint job?

gunny

hear's mine comming in just before touch down.

longflyer

where did you get the 4 bladed props.....
john

gunny11

My Feedback: (6)

look back on page 55 post # 1357 and read on. I built them.

gunny

jimcork1

My Feedback: (4)

Update. I have been flying my herk. Finally solved #4 engine out issues. Very tiny piece of trash in the fuel nipple but would not make the turn to pass through the carb. It would move around the inlet and cause the engine to go lean. After clean out the Saito's run sweet.

Warning though on laminating the wing sheeting to foam. I use DB sorgum if I remember correctly. The landing gear does not have any shock adsorbing to it. I made a smooth landing hit a bump bounced and the right removable wing delaminate the balsa skin to the foam core. I split the trailing edge of the wing poured finish epoxy and resealed. Good to go. What scares me is that some other part of the wing might delaminate in flight. I would recommend you get some 30 min epoxy in strips under the balsa sheeting. If you can get some shock adsorbing on the landing gear this would be good also.

Currently take off weight is just over 21#'s, Saito 30's turn 9900 rpm MAS 10x6 prop. Take off full flaps, landing at half flaps. Definitely a plus if you can add just a click of power in the flare to soften the landing given the delamination issue and lack of shock adsorbing. Jim

I took more movies but found the QT movies are too big to email.

longflyer

hello every one.. getting close on my c130.. pics are under scratch built c130 in the forums.. got some more pics of it there.. let me know what you think
john
1 is main bd.
2 is wiring from wing center section
3exhaust pipe coming out back of nacel.