UkerDuker

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Picture Test...

F86_SABRE

To add on to UkerDuker's photo I am enclosing a sticker pertaining to VAW-123 that were on board USS AMERICA on its last journey back to the USA.

Reuben

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

Here's new pics. This is becoming easier now that the major construction and sanding is complete. Is there such thing as "balsa lung"?

William Robison

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UD:

Only among modelers.

Haw.

Bill.

UkerDuker

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Today I finished putting wood filler on my radar dome and tail fins and had some time to kill while it dries overnight. Since I have my Robart air retracts, I began the mockup of the engine nacelle. I need to make sure the gear fit and I had the correct size wheels. Plus I needed to see roughly how much room I had behind the fire wall for my fuel plumbing issue. I could install a header tank without a problem, even so, I will go with the one main tank on the CG in the fuselage and push fuel out to the engines with the crankcases tapped and a pair of fuel regulators (Pending testing).

I did have one question regarding the refueling of a pressurized system. With the following setup, what is the best way to setup for refueling?
1- one main tank in the fuselage
2- two OS 52 fs with tapped crankcases running to the tank with one-way valves to prevent the engine from working against each other.
3- two cline/ironbay fuel regulators mounts behind the fire wall
4- want to have a single point to refuel

My LHS felt I should go with the Robart super fueler, but my initial thought was for a Great Planes Easy fueler. Not sure the GP refueler would work in a pressurized system.

Attempting to be ready for the June 25-26th fly-in at Chattanooga. [X(]
More to follow...--Mike

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Mike:

Personally, I like the Du-Bro fuelling valves, but I wouldn't use one in a twin, I'm leery about having one line more restricted than the other.

If you put a fuel dot near the regulator, you can fill the tank at that point. remembering you have to open the pressure line also when you refuel. By having the fill dot near the engine you will also fill the line to that one engine, and a second dot on the same engine can be teed into the pressure line for venting while fuelling.

If you have not run the plane out of fuel from the previous flight both engines should restart with no problem. If you did run it dry, or on the first flight of the day, a third fuel dot on the other engine, again close to the regulator, will allow you to fill that line also. A second pressure vent is not needed.

Bill.

hellblastervolly

Hi Mike and the rest I have the same plans for the E2 Hawkeye I got them last year from the same guy on ebay, but I still don't have the space to build it right now but Im working on it. Can't wait to start mine, I was planing to scrach build everything but the idea of lazer cut sounds good now that I have been waiting for a long time, I have some catching up to do I see that your E2 is looking good so far. Your idea of making it a glow fuel is a good one. I also had the same idea. I know it will not be as easy as making it electric but in the end I know it will look, fly and sound more like the full scale.

Fernando

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

It's been a very productive day. I finally finished sanding the radar dome and glassed the bottom. I hope to glass the top tomorrow. I also glassed the first side of the radar pylon. Tomorrow I will be finishing the final sanding on the tail fins and might even get around to fiber glassing the rudders and elevators. I will wait to do the main structure of the tail until I mount it to the fuselage, for added strength.

I felt like a kid at Christmas today when the mailman arrived. I got my gearing for the radar dish. I modified my Futaba 3003 standard servo to spin continously, then mounted it in the frame. The final output turns at 9 RPM's. I will have to live with that, even though the scale turn speed is 7 RPM's. Thats the closest gearing I could find that would fit in my fuselage.

There's been a change in my plans. I have decided to go with a pair of VR-30 pumps to push fuel to my engines from the single tank. I never liked the idea of having a pressurized setup onboard, that could soak the plane with fuel if there was to be a leak. These pumps will fit perfectly behind the firewall and the total cost is much less. (Thanks Bill )

More to follow...--Mike

F86_SABRE

A question to the list:

Does the radome have any angle of incidence? In which case what angle would that be? I

What prompted me to ask was that I have seen some drawings where the radome had a negative incidence angle.
Any info on that?

Reuben

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

F86_SABRE, my plans call for negative 1.0 degree on the radome.

--Mike

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

Today I had a choice, go fly or continue building. I decided to stay indoors working. I finished the tail section with some final sanding and attached the elevators. I finished the glass work on the Radome and the Radome pylon. Both are now primed and need some filler. They both have a few areas to clean up and smooth out. After this, I am hooked on fiberglassing. Not sure what my big fear was, but it is TOO EASY! [8D] Just takes alittle patience.

I even had time to being testing my electrical setup. I finally worked out the glitch in my Radome rotation. I have a servo (See Pic below) with 2 micro-switches. The one side of the servo arm works the switches, while the other side will control the Robart air control valve. When the gear is down, the first micro switch is engaged, turning the landing lights on. When the gear retract, the Radome starts to turn.

I should be receiving kit for the fuselage and wing at the end of March. I love it when a plan comes together!

More to follow...--Mike

hellblastervolly

Hey Mike, looking good.. looking good man, can't wait to see the rest. I know that you order all the wood laser cut my questions are:

1. You know that the plans show only half of each former, do you have any idea how to complete them on a template or to the piece of plywood to be cut? ( this is just in case I go with making all the parts myself) and :

2. How do you make a servo spin continuously?


Thanks
Fernando

rcmiket

I just stack a couple of ply or balsa then cut the half former leaving 2 halfs that can be joined by how ever you like. Its always worked well for me. Mike

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

Now that several people have copies of the plans, any thoughts on the landing gear doors? Is it possible to installed sequenced doors with the retracts? I know there is very limited amount of space in the engine nacelles. Does there have to be a air cylinder/actuator for each door half? How would I setup the front gear when there is a door that swings forward and two that swing out left and right? How would that tie into the retracts? Another mixing valve? Would this take a larger air cylinder? Is this going to be too much weight?[:@] Man, my brain hurts thinking about it!!

I have all these questions, because if it is possible, I want to try to install the doors. I don't want to settle for just holes for the retracts to go up into.

Am I living in a fantasy world????[&:]
--Mike

elmshoot

My Feedback: (6)

Never flew the hummer but you know that only three out of the four verticle stabilizers have a movable rudder. I saw lots of them from the Cockpit of an A-6
Sparky

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

On my aircraft, only the outboard vertical fins will move. Right now I am working to correct the deficiencies on my radome. Perfection is very hard when working with a circular item. The Pylon that the radome mounts to is rock solid since I fiberglassed it. I'm working the final few bumps out of the surface before the final primer coat. The real trick is trying to smooth it out without sanding through the glass weave.

I will be out of town for the next couple weeks, so I guess I'll just start ordering parts when I'm gone. Still need a few large items:
1- the wing and fuselage kit from Kitcutters.com
2- a second OS FS-52
3- a pair of perry pumps VP-30
4- Robart Air system
4a- accessories for sequenced landing gear doors
5- yards of 1/2 OZ fiberglass
6- bucket of Z-poxy
7- onboard Glow parts
8- 2 hot stewardesses
9- battery backup controller
10- a second mortgage
11- everything else

I need funding, guess I better put my kid to work in a sweatshop. I have to get this project airborne NLT JUNE 15th!!!

AAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRR[X(][X(][X(][X(]
--Mike

hellblastervolly

Thanks for the info rcmiket.

Hey mike (UkerDuker) for the front landing gear you don't need air cylinder/actuator for each door. For the door that swings forward you just hook it up with music wire to the robart struts this will pull it up with it and the two that swing out left and right will close when the wheel get to the up position. This is done by adding a piece of plywood or rods to the other side of the doors. So when the wheel close it push the plywood or rods making the door go up and close tight, just play with it. I think I saw this in one of my old Model Airplane News Mag or in a RC book. If i find it I'll scan the pic and post it. This set up dosen't take to mush space or ad much weight and you can use it for the other two landing gear doors. Hope this help or give you some other ideas.

By the way how do you make the servo spin continously?

Fernando

hellblastervolly

There is a guy here in RCUniverse that use control horns in each door with elastic band across the two on his VQ P-61. Here is the page that talk about it just scroll down a little.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_24..._7/key_/tm.htm

Fernando

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

Here's the link to modify a servo:
http://www.mgsweb.com/an116/GAN116_3003.shtml

This was real easy and works great. The only other issue I need to work out is having that servo run off its own battery. I don't want one servo constantly spinning running off the flight servos battery. My thought was to add a battery backer, basically using 2 batteries. When one gets low, it automatically switched to the other. I plan to use 6V batteries for this project.
--Mike

hellblastervolly

Thanks for the link Mike. You can go with adding a battery backer or maybe you can use the second battery just for the radome servo. I don't have much experience with electric fly but maybe you can use one of those lithium polymer batteries that power brushless motor. I know they are lightweight but I think they need a different connection or they can melt. Im flying blind here [8D] a little help here anyone. If they work you will only have to connect your servo to one of the aux channel of the receiver and turn it on and off any time like a smoke pump.

Fernando

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

My original design (or until I find another solution) for my radome rotation has been modified. I planned to have a microswitch engage when the gear was down and this would turn on the lights. The second switch would engage with the gear up and start the radome rotation. Since I can't place a separate battery between the radome and the RX, I had to substitute a Y-harness on the gear servo. After the radome servo gets modified, you can adjust when and the direction the servo rotates. I fine tuned the servo, so when the gear is down=it's stopped. When the gear is up=rotation is on.

Until my kit arrives, I am filling and sanding the radome and pylonand working on the tail fins. This radome is tough. The circular shape is much more difficult than I originally suspected. The part I'm not sure I will ever get right is the outside edges. I built the structure with leading edge pieces on the outside, so I could get a general top-to-bottom shape, plus I could sand it into a round disk. Might sound confusing, it's not, just takes alot of sanding and filler. I'll get it soon enough.

Trivia question that I need answered: WHat direction, looking down on the radome, does it rotate?

Update on the laser cuttting. I emailed Kitcutters.com today to find out the status of delivery. The estimated delivery date was mid-late march. Now it's early-mid April. If this gets pushed back beyond Apr 15th, I will be getting my plans cut locally. I want to be test flight complete by Mid-June so I can attend the Fly-in at Chattanooga the last weekend in June. (Fingers are crossed[&:])

More to follow...--Mike

hellblastervolly

I can see what you said about the outside edges of the radome and your right it will take a lot of sanding if you do it by hand. Maybe you can make a jig with a perfect round shape and glue very coarse sanding paper and see if will work faster. I don't know how strong is the radome because if it is... it can be hook to a variable speed drill and with the jig in a clamp turn it until is round. I know this sound crazy, thats why it will have to be strong if not, hand, hand hand with it. For your trivia question: Im sure the radome rotate clockwise looking down to it. Erly-mid April??[X(] thats not much time to finish by Mid-June you will have to work day and night to finish way earlier then that. It's not the building but the trimming of the engines and all the systems even after the maiden flight.[sm=spinnyeyes.gif] Well I will have my Fingers crossed to.

Fernando

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

I'm coming to the hard realization that I won't be flying my Hawkeye that last week in June for the twin fly-in[&o](pending any miracles). I got home from my business trip to find a TowerHobbies package. I received my Robart air system, front wheels, 1 of 2 perry pumps(vp-30), and 2 micro servos for my throttles. Since I have been gone for some time, all I did today was continue glassing the tail section. This will take a few more days. Continueing the patience.....[>:]

I also worked on laying out my gear that would be mounted in the fuselage. First thought, damn, this is alot of stuff. (see pics) I have to really think about having a working tail hook. Plus, the rudder servo will be a challenge to mount around the radome mechanics.

I will be using Klass epoxy paints for the final finish. I'll be working out the details to finalize my order this week.

More to follow...--Mike

rcmiket

Mike;
Have you recived you "kit" from the cutters yet? I'm holding off on this till I see how yours looks. Your right about all that stuff you have to stick in there. I'm stilllooking into the electric option, I think it will solve a bunch of issues as far as room goes. From what I've seen your work looks great. Hang in there. Mike

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

No, no kit yet. I am scheduled to see it the 1-2nd week in April. That fine with me, because I am traveling alot lately. I have a few pending challenges once I start building the fuselage.
1- the mounting of the tailhook and the retract air valve to the same servo. Just need alittle engineering to get the different throw to work together.

2- The mounting of the rudder servo, depends on the exact placement of the radome mechanics. My concern is for the nose wheel steering arm.

And the final issue, that is always taken into consideration, is the CG. When ever I have a need modification or change of plan, I have to determine how it will effect my CG.

Here's a question I did have when I was laying out my equipment. When looking at the plans, they show the furthest AFT CG line. Should I center my fuel tank on the line or place the back of the tank on the line?

More to follow...--Mike