Robby

My Feedback: (18)

Take a 440 tap and run thru motor mount holes.. if no tap is available
then just use a 440 threaded rod, make one end pointed, put in drill,
and then run it thru the holes to thread them for motor mounting bolts..
Use the other eight 440 bolts to mount motor, four per nacelle... At this time,
look for the long control rod package.. there is a long grey tube in there.. Cut
off two four inch pieces for the throttle linkage to go thru... The holes may need
and 11/64 drill run thru them to open to proper size....
Once this is done the nacelles are ready to install fuel tanks...

Robby

My Feedback: (18)

Now we will do the fuel tanks so we can wrap up doing the nacelles...
Find the fuel tanks packages and open them.. Remove the
tanks from package, pull out the stopper, and there will be the internal parts
for the tank inside each one... The pick-up line seems a little too long so cut
about 1/4" off... The pice cut off is shown in red circle... There are three holes
in the metal pieces,, but, only two holes in the rubber stopper..
Make sure clunk goes all the way to rear of tank but doesn't get hung up anywhere..
Run the vent tube into tank and bend upwards but not so that it will hit the tank
as it might wear a hole into fuel tank... Now slid the stopper assey into the fuel
tank and tighten the screw tightly as described on page ten......

Cut out four pieces of 1/2" foam.. Lay one piece on the bottom of each nacelle..
Look in the wood parts package for the fuel tank top hold downs.. There is a left
and a right so make sure you use the correct one per side... Where the manual
does not state this, I put some RTV around neck of fuel tank to seal it , then installed
the tank into nacelle.. Now use another piece of foam on top of tank,, lay in the
top tank hold down,, drill as described for #2 screw,, and attach together.. I did
notice the #2 screw pokes thru firewall, as can be seen in the last pic,, so will have
to be cut down..
The foam pieces will hold the fuel tank but still keep it from being so rigid that it
causes fuel foaming..
Looks like the nacelles are ready to be glued into the wing.. ***** ****** [sm=thumbup.gif]

Robby

My Feedback: (18)

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Time to get the tail feathers ready to mount...
Pull out the fuselage, look where the horizonal stab and vertical fin
will mount into fuse.. Carefully trim away the covering on both sides
and on top of fuse where the 'slots' are...
Then insert horizonal stab and then insert vertical fin... Mark lightly
on the vertical fin where it meets the fuse... Remove, and carefully
trim covering off lower portion of vertical fin...
Lay it aside and then do the horizonal stab...

Robby

My Feedback: (18)

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Now we are going to do same with horizonal stab.. **** Except....

The stab has to be positioned properly so marks are correct.. Do not use
the trim coloring on the stab as I have noticed they are not centered..
Do all measurements from the stab itself..
First thing is to center the stab in the fuse.. Do measuring as shown by red arrows..
Once centered stick a straight pin in fuse right behind where wing attaches as seem in last pic....
Use something as a piece of string.. Run it from the pin to one side of stab hinge line <as pictured by
the green lines>, then do same on other side.. If off, then move stab till it is equeal on both
sides.. The manual does give an idea how this is done.. ******* [sm=thumbup.gif]
Now that horizonal stab is centered, mark it on top and on bottom...
Pull it out of fuse and again, carefully cut only the covering away on top and bottom of stab...
If by chance the cut goes into the wood,, take some thin CA and run it along the cut line only to strenghten the
wood again..

The horizonal stab and vertical fin are now ready to be glued into fuse... [color=#FFFFFF]***** [sm=sunsmiley.gif] *****
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Robby

My Feedback: (18)

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Looking at page 12, numbers 14, 15, and 16 of the manual, it is a little vague..
It is about installing the vartical fin ....As much as I am trying to stick to the manual,, here I had
to stray some... It does show to cut away the covering and then says to epoxy it and stick it in...


In addition to removing the covering from the lower part of the fin,, where the fin sits on top of
the fuse should also be carefully cut to remove the covering in front of and behind fin slot as
shown in the second pic...
Taking in to thought about hanger rash or tieing off plane while starting, if the front part of fin is
not glued,, it could break...***** [&o]
In an effort to make alignment easier, straight pins, after heads were cut off, were pushed into
the fin.. The pins will then push thru into the horizonal stab... This will help insure the fin stays
perpendicular to the stab while glue sets...
So all cuts have been made, time to glue... Using 30 minute epoxy to glue the fin inside the fuse
and med CA to fin where it meets fuse on outside, on top, both front and on the rear of the fin slot..

Now is the time to make any final adjustments to insure the vertical fin is true perpendicular to the
horizonal stab... Squirt some kicker where the CA was applied to set it then set fuse aside and let
epoxy cure.. After a couple minutes check for any epoxy that may have run out and wipe away
with some alcohol on a cloth rag..
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William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

All:

If you want some insight into our "Ferless Leader" in this thread, look at the attached picture. It is extracted from the fourth picture in Robby's last post.

He asked me if he could take that engine, cut it in two, then file the 60s down a bit to get a pair of FA-56 engines for his Twinstar.

Can you imagine?

Haw! Gotcha, Robby!

Bill.

Robby

My Feedback: (18)

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Annndddd.. ??***** You never did answer me... [sm=punching.gif]
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Robby

My Feedback: (18)

Seeing as Bill never told me how to convert my Saito 120 into two .60,,
guess we will just have to glue on the nacelles for something to do...

Looking at the first pic right behind where nacelle goes into wing there is a square 'cut out' under
the covering .. Cut away covering as in second pic.. This is where the throttle servo will be placed..
As manual stated in the beginning, test fit nacelles into wing... I noticed the left one was a little loose
but not enought to be concerned... Make sure to put left nacelle into left wing and right nacelle into
right wing as in pic three.. This is how the engines out thrust is done..
After cutting away covering for servo hole, test fitting nacelle into wing, what I did was roughen the
wood on both nacelle and wing area where it mounts.. The manual doesn't say to do this but being
as this has the force of the engine pulling on it just seemed like a good idea to make very sure there
is good adhesion of this part... The fourth pic give you the idea...

Robby

My Feedback: (18)

Ok,, lets go for it....
Mix up some 30 minute epoxy, spread it onto the bare wood of the nacelle
and then onto the bare wood on the wing... A little trick I do is to heat the
wood prior to putting on the epoxy as it makes it the epoxy thin out some
till it cools with out loosing strenght.. This helps to spread the epoxy out
as well as soak into the bare wood...
After glueing nacelle into wing wipe away the excess with alcohol on a rag
all the way around joining area...
I found it best to then lightly clamped to hold it in place and true till epoxy cures....
[sm=idea.gif]********* [sm=idea.gif]********* [sm=idea.gif] ******* [sm=idea.gif]
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Robby

My Feedback: (18)

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Look in the parts package for the two servo trays...
Do a test fit and if needed lightly sand the sides to make it fit...
The covering should be removed where the servo tray sits as shown
in the first pic...
Once both have been fitted, the manual says to use thin CA to attach
them to wing.. I'll admit, I used med CA as the servo trays do not sit
flush onto the wing... *****
When installing the servo tray make sure the 'notch' is pointing to the
right on both sides for the servo wires to go thru during servo installation...

Also make sure the string is free at this time...
The string is there to make pulling the throttle servo wires thru the wing easier..
***** [sm=thumbup.gif] ***** [sm=thumbup.gif]***** [sm=thumbup.gif]

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Robby

My Feedback: (18)

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While waiting for the glues to thourghly set on the wing lets get the electronics
out and ready....
Find the small parts package again as in the first pic... This has the control horns
for the elevator and rubber.. Pull out the two control horns, two clevis, and two lock
clips as shown in second pic .. Also get out four #2x½" screws... We will also need
to get out the two longest control rods from the rod package....

This part is interesting.. I have gone thru the manual entirely... It gives on page #3
"hardware and accessories" listing a "Y" harness, foam, and fuel tubing... Then goes
into building supplies.. But nowhere does it state type of servos required... The first
hint of servos is on page #13 for aileron and it shows a picture of a Futaba 3003..
Then on page #16 it shows rudder and elevator servo installation and again pictures
Futaba 3003 servos... So guess this plane uses standard type servos...
The third pic shows I got Futaba 3004 for this plane as I expect it to see a lot of action
and think the extra $4 dollar per servo for a ball bearing top case servo to be a worthwhile
investment.. For a reciever I will be using a Futaba 127DF....
Next to get the servo arm ready... In the last pic it shows a six sides "star" arm that the
servos come with.. Take on and carefully cut off all but two opposing arm and on another
carefully cut off all but one arm... The two arm is for the rudder and the single is to use on
the elevator... [/color]
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Robby

My Feedback: (18)

Take the long control rods and screw the clevis onto them just about till thread start to come
out other side...
Next, rub finger across fuse where rudder control exit is, then carefully trim away covering
to expose exit hole as in first pic.. .. Flip fuse over and do same for elevator control rod exit
hole as in second pic...
Now we can install the surface control horns... When installing the control horns make sure the
four rod holes are in line with the hinge line so proper and equal surface deflection can be obtained
as shown in the last two pics... The control horn are attached with 2 of the #2x½ screws per horn..

Robby

My Feedback: (18)

A hint to help make it easier to install the control horns....

Before drilling screw hole,, take a couple pieces of soft balsa and a couple clamps
as in the first pic to hold surface while aligning control horn holes to hinge line.. This
will keep surface for deflecting while trying to drill holes...


Now that the control horns and control rods are installed time to drop
in the servos..
Before installing the servos I twist the servo wire.. This is done to help
reduce any chance of internal disruption of the servo signal... Yesss,, that
dreaded RF noise...

Now lets drop in the servos and put on the servo arms... As you are looking
inside fuse from the bottom the servo on left is for rudder and the one on the
right is for elevator....
The rudder servo gets the two sides arm and the elevator gets the
single sided arm...***** [sm=surprised.gif]

Run the servo wires under the servo tray and exit towards the front....

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chrishwegner

My Feedback: (38)

Hint:
When installing the servo trays for the throttle servos cut one side off the tray ( the long side ) and install the 'U' shaped under the wing skin and against the spar. It can be glued in by wicking with thin CA. Use the leftover piece the glue together the sides of the nacelle just behind the servo so that the servo can sit flat down on the wing skin. This will allow you to have a secure surface to screw in the servo screws and more importantly solve the problem of having insufficient clearance for the servo arm without having to cut out the plastic nacelle cover later.
Chris

Robby

My Feedback: (18)

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Hooking up the rudder and elevator control rods is pretty easy...
As in a couple post back I found it easier to clamp the control surface
so it doesn't move and then screw on the clevis to the control rod..
Then the manual says to attach it to the second hole from outside on
the control horn..
Once this is done the control rod can be marked where the bend will
be for it to go into the servo arm.. The first pic shows marking it ...
Remove clamp form control surface, disconnect clevis so rod can be
slid in and out as needed while doing the bend...
In the third pic it shows after control has been cut to approx ½" from
bend... Then insert thru servo arm, attach quick clip,, reattach clevis
on horn, center servos thru RX and do initial adjustment..

Robby

My Feedback: (18)

Next remove the longest rod in rod package and the grey tube left over from
when the motor linkage was done... Also get the last part from the wood package
which is what holds tube in place within fuse.. Get out another clevis and small blue
lock tubing piece..
Screw clevis on, insert grey tube into fuse, cut to where approx 1/8" is protruding
out front of the nose gear bulkhead.. Should be about 2" from tube to servo inside
the fuse... Roughen the tube where is exits steering gear bulkhead then slid it into
fuse while lsidding control rod into tube from inside.. Now using thin CA glue wooden
tube bracket to side of fuse....
Attach clevis to opposite side of rudder servo arm.. Done...***** *****

Robby

My Feedback: (18)

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So you were wondering what those strings were for on both
sides of the wing.... Hobbico was king enough to supply them so the
throttle servo wire could be pulled thru the wing easily... As long as
no glue gets onto them they work very well... Thank you, Hobbico..
Pull the servo wire thru the wing and out the aileron servo hole.. Then
slid the throttle servo wire between the aileron servo tray and the wing
so the aileron servo can be installed....
Once in, connect both throttles with a wye cord...


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Robby

My Feedback: (18)

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[size=2]
Aileron servo/linkage installation is easy...
Get two of the controls rod that are left..
Look in the small parts package for the two clevis, two blue silcone lock tubes,
two aileron torque rod horns, and two quick clips like in the first pic....
Screwing on the aileron torque rod horns can be a pain,, BUT... If you look you
will notice that on one side there is a bevel to make starting it onto the torque
rod easier... Screw them down leaving about three or four threads showing...
The third pic shows centering servo arm with radio and then mark and bend as
was done with tail surface control rods.. Hook up to servo arm and put on the
quick clips.. At this time go ahead and do mechincal adjustment of ailerons.... ******* [sm=thumbup.gif]

Robby

My Feedback: (18)

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Looking at page #14 in the manual it provides somewhat for the
throttle linkage.. Part #13 and #14 of manual shows the bend
required for throttle control rod where it exits firewall tube which
can be seen in the first pic.. Then #15 and #16 says to mark and
bend it... Then it proceeds not to say anything about how to connect
control rod to the servo.. If we assume it is done as with the other
control rods and use a fast clip when servo arm goes forward it hits
control rod tube.... What I ended up doing is making a Z bend and
then twisting the top end inward so it clears nacelle cover.. At this
time make the mechanical adjustments on both engines and check
tobe sure linkage fully opens and closes the carb...

With the throttle servo tray and the servo properly mounted it makes
the linkage higher than what the control rod tube is.. The manual does
state when doing control rods to make very sure there is no binding...
However, with the servo higher than the tube the control rod has to be
slightly bent to accomplish this.. By doing the bend the fast clip can not
be safely used.... The second and third pic shows how far off this is...
There is an additional problem with the servo being so high is interference
with servo arm and linkage with the nacelle cover...

A great suggestion was provided by chrishwegner a few post up to put
the servo tray under the wing skin.. Then everything lines up pretty well... [sm=thumbup.gif]**** [sm=thumbup.gif]**** [sm=thumbup.gif]

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Robby

My Feedback: (18)

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Now its time cover everything up in the nacelles with the nacelle covers... ******
Covers seem to be vacuum formed ABS plastic.... There has been some discussion
that they might be thicker than previous.. The answer is yes and no.. No, the plastic
is not realy thicker, yes, the paint on them makes them thicker,, Yes, I said paint...
They are painted plastic covers... They are painted inside and out...**** [sm=surprised.gif]
As the paint on them is rather heavy you will have to look carefully to make sure
where the trim lines are.. The first pic gives a good idea where to look...
This is another area where the manual is rather vague.. There are only a couple of
frontal views of the covers and all it says is trim, drill, attach... Thankfully there is
a good side view on front cover of manual ...
The manual does suggest to drop in some thin CA into the holes to harden the screw
holes which is a good idea... There is also a right and left as shown in the second pic..
The third pic shows what they should look like once trimed..
Drill three holes as described in manual and attach the nacelle covers... **** [sm=sunsmiley.gif]
And of course the fouth pic shows them installed...
[/color]
We are getting close, folks...
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Robby

My Feedback: (18)

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Now we can lay the wing aside for a few minutes and do the nose gear...
Page #17 shows this..
Pull out all the parts required from the parts package as shown in first pic...
Use the 4-40 bolts to mount the nylon bearing block but do not tighten yet..
Slide the nose gear leg into the bearing block after all four bolts are in to line
up the holes and to position the nose gear wire ... Then tighten bolts as in the
second pic...
The steering arm uses a wheel collar except has a bolt thru it into the collar..
Prior to using the wheel collars might be a good idea to run a dril thru them to
make sure they are full open as the lock bolt hole is drilled and tapped after the
collar is made and might interfere with sliding collar onto gear wire..
The nose gear has a flat where the steering arm is to lock onto it...*** Minor
problem here... If done as this,, steering arm won't have enough travel in one
direction... In the third pic this is how I took care of it.. I bent/twisted the nose
gear to have appropriate travel in both direction and be able to use locking flat...
The fourth pic shows it all assembled.. Just cut off the control rod wire leaving a
small piece out in case it may be needed for a future adjustment..*** ***

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Robby

My Feedback: (18)

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Now go grab the wing,, again,,** **Time to do the MAIN GEAR ...
Remove the required parts from the parts package..
Then go into the parts box and get the main gear and wheels out....
Rub your finger across the covering where the main gear goes into wing to find the receiver slot...
Carefully cut covering.. What I did rather than cut it away was to cut slit it from one end to the other..
This is important to test fit the main gear wire into the wing...
The receiver slot is directly perpendicular to the hole which is drilled straight into gear block in wing..
The wire has a curved bend... What I did was to take a drill <or dremel> and round off the corner of the slot to the hole to fit the curve of the gear wire...
Test fit the gear again and this time it should fit all the way into receiver slot...
Next lay out a strap and drill the screw holes.. Do same for all four straps... Then screw them on...

And guess what... All the landing gear is now on... **** ****[sm=thumbup.gif]

[i][b]Now would be a good time to attach wing and lay plane on level surface
to check if it sits level...
If adjustment is wanted the nose gear has enough wire to adjust the
stance of the plane...
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DrDeath

My Feedback: (3)

Hey Robby,

Good idea on the twist!!! I will have to use it on my project. I was wondering if I was going to do what someone else did which was add a plate to the gear. Your way is much cleaner. Just a little muscle and you are set.

Lee

Robby

My Feedback: (18)

******
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[font="Trebuchet MS"]
Thanks, Lee.. Hopefully this thread will let people know what this plane is like and entice
them to get it... And to also help those who already do have it to see how someone
else handles putting it together.... *****

Now that the landing gear has been done and all adjustments are done the nose can go on...
The manual says to have 'your assistant' to help.. Well, kids,, Unkle Robby does not have an
assistant here right now so its allll up to me...
What I did was set it on the front of fuse and lined up the stripes on both side then used marker
to mark where it is... This is more of an insurance thing to make sure it says in alignment... Then
drill a hole and screw in a screw and then do it for the other three... I do have to admit,,, I made
a minor variation here... I know,, I know,, suppose to be "by the manual"...*** [:-]
I just had a hard time using the phillips screws they supplied.. So instead I used Great Planes
#GPMQ3124 which is a #4x½" button head screw... It looks sooooo much smoother plus I like the
allen head look..****
In the last two pics it shows with the fiberglass nose on the fuse..*** Two thumbs up to Hobbico for
supplying a quality fiberglass nose with this plane... ****** [sm=thumbup.gif] ******[sm=thumbup.gif]

Robby

My Feedback: (18)

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Time now to do finish the electronics in this project...
The servos are all in and adjusted so now all needed is to plug everything into the receiver..
Ok,, So I deviated from the manual again.. On page 18 it gives the basics..Rather than go
with the suggested switch with seperate charge jack I opted to go with a MPI Charge Switch..
Instead of doing as suggested in the manual to run antenna out fuse behind wing rearward
and pin it to fuse I elected to run a small tube inside the fuse to hide the antenna..
To feed it thru the tube just run a Nyrod into tube, put *a* drop on thin CA on very end on
antenna, and stick it into the end of Nyrod about 1/16" ....
Pull the Nyrod out from the rear and till end of antenna is exposed as shown in second
and third pics... Carefully pull out the antenna from the Nyrod and clean
off any CA that may still be on it.. Make very sure that the end of antenna has nothing on it..
At this time the Charge Switch hole can be cut out...
Using the inside mount plate trace where the hole needs to be cut, and then
carefully cut it out... Install switch and back plate make sure it is secure...

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