Johng

My Feedback: (4)

Sweet

Johng

My Feedback: (4)

Just an FYI for Bronco fans. There's a fuse & pods fiberglass set for an 81" Bronco for sale here:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=947034

yojoelay

I am about to start assembly of my NIB ESM Bronco (same as the KMP version). I am going electric with two Hyperion motors (4025-16 320kv on 8s). My question is about servos. Up until this point my default servos have been the hitec 625 and 645. This plane looks to be a bit bigger though, especially the stab surface. I would prefer to stay with analogue servos if possible, what have people used on this plane?

Joel

lozza1965

Hi John, anyidea of when your beremoving the nose off yours, getting close to the point where I'm going to decide what to do.

Cheers

Loz

fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

Hey Joel,
I had one of these. You can see pic's on page 3 i think... I used standard 43oz servos on all surfaces. Nothing special. It flew very well and never had a problem. One thing I did is that I did split the elevator into 2 halves. and a servo in each stab to run each half of the elevator...

Ty

Johng

My Feedback: (4)

Well, you know how projects go. Well behind schedule I intend to get flying after the new year, but not really sure when I'll change the nose.

lozza1965

Hi Jon

Thanks for quick reply John, may have to make one as want to commit to paint early Feb, if you get bored after Christmas dinner, you could always remove it then lol.

Merry Christmas

loz

Thunderbolt47

My Feedback: (8)

I agree with Ty. I saw his fly years ago and wanted one ever sence. I finally got mine. It came with 645 though out. (overkill for sure) I also split the elevator like Ty. This is too big a plane to trust to just one servo.
Kelly

pattnut

I also used two (mini) servos to oprerate the elevator. All the rest of my servos are "standard" size; some digital, all coreless.

Old Dawg

yojoelay

Ok, 645s it is, thanks.

Joel

lozza1965

Time for a little update, model coming on nicely, have fitted Lenny Shindlin retracts with 5 inch wheels on the mains and 4 inch on the nose, lots of cutting to fit these but have kept things nice a tidy, engines all been trial fitted, was going to use DLE 20's but have changed for the new DLE 20RA engines, these fitted superbly into the cowl, just got hold of the 1/5 scale machine gun muzzles so still got to fit these, as luck would have it had some spare dummy drop tanks lying around so with a little work this week they are now fitted, fully removeable being held in with two screws.
Hoping to start paint job in a few weeks, colour scheme I think will be arctic camo, ok so I've not seen a real one but what the hell think it will look cool.



lozza

lozza1965

Got it fully assembled today on its wheels

dmyers0403

My Feedback: (48)

How did you find a canopy with no painted panel lines?? Guess kit was the unpainted version. Would love to have one as mine has become cracked and yellow over the years. This is a great flyer, You will love it. Awesome on steep landing approach with full flaps. I have Hitech 645 on all surfaces and just one on elevator with no problems since kit came out many years ago. Made a wood tab from each nacelle to attache each outer wing. Used Sierra gear, everything else is stock.
A friend has considered kitting several from his own detailed cad plans (awesome work) for the same size but with greater scale detail. We need to find a source for the canopy pull.

lozza1965

My kit came unpainted, have used Lenny Shindlin retracts, wings are attached from inside using 4mm bolt will add pics to show how i did it, Savox servo's all round, using carbon horns, doubled on elevator on all control surfaces except rudders

dmyers0403

My Feedback: (48)

Interested in where you got the machine gun muzzles. Planning on refinishing mine before flying season. I bought new fiberglass scale cowls and nose. The Zenoa 20's have been smooth and reliable but would like to change to the rear exhaust DL20 as you have done to avoid all the cut out of cowl. Let me know how they work for you. Mine has plenty of power for scale flying but will not pull loop from level flight, Have the Dynamic cockpit kit to install, decent kit but will reserve what I think until completed. Good place to add weight as I had to put couple of lbs in nose.

Thunderbolt47

My Feedback: (8)

Are you running 2 or 3 bladers with your DLE 20s?

dmyers0403

My Feedback: (48)

I have the Zenoa 20 with master 16x8 2-blade. Have not tried any 3-blades and I did not want to sacrifice any power. Surprisingly the Master composite 2-blades pull better than the 16x8 wood props we ran. Interested in how well the DL20RE you have will run. Would be nice to get a bit more power and run a 3-Blade. May consider the DL35RE but was surprised by amount of vibration on the only one I have seen run. My Zenoa 20's are very very smooth running engines and never a falter, just don't like the carb and muffler eating big holes in cowl.

Thunderbolt47

My Feedback: (8)

Sorry I didn't catch the Zen 20s. Yea I deffinantly wouldn't run 3bs on them. I'm running DLE20 side exhast. They are turning 16x10(I think) master airscrews @ 7200 static. It is a little slow to get moving but pulls hard. I keep a little up EL and when she ready for the air, she rotates just like a full scale. In the air it's not a speed demon and wont loop from level. Landing is awsome. It shocks people that I climb up to land. Half flaps and point the nose down. The 3bs really slow her down and landing are amazing. (love this plane)

I could get more umph with 2Bs but I love the look of 3.

As for the vibration of a 35. are you sure they had a balanced prop? I take great care to balance my props, but some people don't.

I thought about the 35s on mine, but would have to had moved the fire wall back and at the time I didn't feel like messing with it. Beside the 20 run great run strong and I can crank them with a standard starter with out a choke.
Kelly

dmyers0403

My Feedback: (48)

16x10 3-blade on the DL20's are awesome. Looks great also. You did a nice job with your plane especially with the tanks and armament. I need to make the engine change, thanks for info. Will probably have to do the canopy method per Palmer planes as the canopy clear pieces are available and will build the canopy frame. I have his plans. Have you considered brakes for yours as it is a perfect candidate.

Thunderbolt47

My Feedback: (8)

So far I haven't needed brakes, but I did look into then a little bit. The club in Raleigh NC (RDRC) has the only asphalt runway in the area that I fly off of. It's 300' and I can get the plane down and stopped before the end.

Next project. If you look at the second pix you will notice the main wheel is leaning. That is a flaw in the Century Jet gear. I have some new parts fabricated to fix this. I have to get up with my welder friend so he can weld them up. (he's good)

I had to send my gear back to CJ to add more retratiojn to them. They where at about 70 something.They are almost 90degs now. (88degs) They are still sloppy, but they have worked everytime.

Johng

My Feedback: (4)

I have that same LG issue. Would love to see your mods..

Thunderbolt47

My Feedback: (8)

ok john, it will be a few week though. I will post pix.
Kelly

lozza1965

Hi guys

its been a while been finishing off my Bronco, almost done will get some photos next week, but can I ask, C of G , are the KMP instructions correct or do I need a different reference point,.

Many thanks

lozza

pattnut

KMP's recomended CG is SPOT ON!! I now have many flights on mine, and I haven't changed the CG one bit, and I have Sierra retracts in mine (balanced it gear up).

Old Dawg

lozza1965

Cheers Pat was going to balance gear down, got Lenny Shindlin retracts on mine.