SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

What is the best insulation for gas engines?

yl5295

My Feedback: (1)

I would recomend silicon tubing.

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

Thanks and I have another ? you said to avoid contact with the crankcase because of RF noise. What is the mininum spacing of Twin-sync wires and ignition wiring? For example can they both pass through the same hole in the firewall ? I want to use one of the hold down screws on the igniton sensor to mount a bracket that I made for the Twin-sync sensor. This
will place them about 1/2 inch apart


Thanks
N

2engsout

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Nelson, I was the gas engine beta tester for the twin sync. It maybe alright to mount the hall sensor that close to the ignition hall sensor, but it's best to mount it on the other side of the case if at all possible. I am assuming you want to use the magnets that trigger the ignition to also trigger the twin sync?? I have personally seen this work on the DL 50, but I cannot promise it will work on anything else. Check that the green LED's on the twin sync light up only once per revolution when you test it. From my vast experience in this particular field...it has always yeilded better range when the twin sync hall sensor lead was given it's own route back to the board,,,as far away as possible from all other ignition related wires,,,at all times...You should concentrate all ignition wires on the bottom half of the cowling and route the twin sync hall sensor lead at the very top of the cowling passing thru it's own hole in the firewall. I will email my "Twin Sync installation Requirements for gas engines" supplement to anyone planning on installing the twin sync on a gas engine. It is a must read and will eliminate all potential problems before they occur and explain why it must be done. I will also send my Troubleshooting guide along with it. Chime in with your email address and I will send it. Rick Simmons

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

Hello Rick, Yes I do plan to use the ignition magnets.I am using XYZ 26CC engines.
I have sent my e-mail address .

Thanks,
Nelson

3dsky

My Feedback: (84)

The ver 2.0.1 April 17, 2007 TWINSYNC is not programming to the stick positions. I had to do a Reset to factory and the unit works but I still have problems.
1) RPM is reading 2 X the engine RPM
2) JR 9303 has the Throttle in reverse for the unit to work, in NORM direction the servos jump in different directions when programmed. The yellow light was on at idle in NORM direction all the way up to max stick then it would turn off. Works as described if I reverse it.
3) I need to reduce the end points for the OS 70 engines. Arms are in as far as possible and still have too much through. Engine idles at ½ stick. (need to set HI 100% L at 31%)

The unit will sync up engines only from 7/8 to max stick, not where I programmed them.
The glow units turn on and off as described.

4) Reset everything (TX in NORM) again and the yellow light is on until the stick is at max. Ran engines and this time the engines chase each other and will only run ok when the yellow light is out. Engines try to kill each other.

Send unit in? or am I missing something? [:@]

2engsout

My Feedback: (2)

Hi 3DSKY, let's try a few things first. I believe you have the unit that has the glow driver wires that hang from the board. Correct me if you don't before proceeding. I will have to send you a slightly modified proceedure. #1. the twin sync has the alibity to read 1 or 2 magnets per backplate depending on the programing. The factory default is the 1 magnet read. The only way it can read 2 x eng rpm is to run 2 magnets with the twin sync set for a 1 magnet read. It would still work fine as long as engine rpm dose not exceed 11,000 rpms. Are you running 2 magnets per backplate? If not, then lets get these other issues worked out first. If so then lets reprogram for a 2 magnet read just to keep things simple. This is done by turning the rotary switch to posistion #6. Now press and hold both buttons while applying power. Now turn power off. Turn rotary switch back to #0. Power on and your good. Make a note that this unit is programed for a 2 magnet read. There is NO indication of the LED's that you are now in the 2 magnet read mode. If you ever want to switch back, simply repeat process.
#2. The JR TX throttle ch MUST be in reverse and the Futabas MUST be in Normal. Period. The yellow LED must not be lit at bottom stick. The twin sync snycronization process is activated ONLY when that Yellow LED is ON, above 20% throttle. This too, is programable.
#3. If your engine is idling at 1/2 stick then your throttle geomety is waaaaay off. Lets fix that. Keep the ball as close as possible (.375 max) on the arm to the servo shaft,= max resolution with minumum linear pushrod travel. With the pushrod off the carb arm, program 120% ATV on the bottom half of neutral, and atleast 100% ATV on the top half of neutral. The distance between the center of the servo shaft and the carb shaft is ALWAYS the correct distance between the center of the ball links of the throttle pushrod. Make this happen. You may or may not be able to rotate the arm on the carb to get the carb at 1/2 throttle opening at 1/2 stick?? Put the pushrod back on. Repeat for the other engine. You will have to tweek the ATV to finalize the output. Send some pics of your geometry if this is not working for you...Now lets reprogram the ATV's for the throttle ch at the twin sync unit. To program the idle ATV, select rotory switch to #3, and then apply power. Move stick to bottom with idle trim set approximatly where the engines will idle. Usually between 2-10% output on your throttle curve. Push each button once, and each of the yellow LED's will flash once. Then turn rotory switch to #"0" and turn off power. Your low ATV is now established. This will be your "good engine" idle setting for any engine failure situations. You can always change this after you have started the engines and experimented with "dead engine " senario situations by killing one engine on the ground. For engines without an ignition kill switch, simply raise the RPMS above the "sync point" and unplug a hall sensor to simulate a "dead engine. The good engine will throttle back to this preset rpm, along with the engine that the hall sensor lead was just pulled. Repeat this for both engines. To change this RPM setting, simply repeat steps at the new prefered % output. To establish your "HI" ATV setting, move stick to full throttle and turn rotory switch to #5. Apply power. Now, ONLY push the button FARTHEST to the rotory switch and a yellow LED will flash. Turn rotory switch to #"0", and turn power off. Your "HI" ATV is now established. Your throttle servos will never exceed this ATV setting. To establish initial "sync activation point", move stick to 20% output on your throttle curve. This activation point tells the twin sync unit to "NOW" begin moving the throttle servos towards RPM syncronization. Turn rotory switch to #5 and then apply power. Push button CLOSEST to the rotory switch and a yellow LED will flash. Turn rotory switch to #"0" and power off. Your "sync point" is now programmed. Now Apply power and confirm that the yellow LED comes on when the throttle stick passes thru 20% output on your throttle curve and stays lit to full throttle. Your initial sync point is now set, but you may change it to your % preference after you have run the engines. Now start your engines and see how this works. Let us know. Let me know what your email address is and I will send you my 3 supplements to the manual. Rick Simmons

3dsky

My Feedback: (84)

My glow driver is pluged into the board. Firmware 2.0.0 Hardware 2.0
Thanks Tom

2engsout

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Tom, if your LED's are square it's the 1st style board. If they are round, it is the 2nd style. Witch one? Rick

3dsky

My Feedback: (84)

I have the round LED's.

Question about the servo hookup. Stock servo travel is 90 degrees and the OS 70 Surpass is less than 90 degrees, about 50 degrees max and that will cut the engine off. Useful movement is about 40 degrees. I have the arms in as far as they can go (drilled an extra hole in the engine arm) and on the JR 9303 at 100 % / -100% the carb is over driven. The servo adjustment on the board will move the low throttle point but it moves the HI end also so that is not an option. The unit must be able to work with the low end adjustable at less than 100%.

I did try the JR in reverse and was able to get it to somewhat work. I had random engine cuts, both engine would go to idle and stop from full throttle after 2 minutes. I also could not set the sync point. Once the engines started the sync point changed to a higher stick position. The only thing that worked was the on/off of the glow drivers. I did do a reset several times and came up with different results each time.

I set this up on a test stand to break-in the engines and to set up the TwinSync. I now have the engines mounted in the plane and will be using a Futaba 9CAP.

Thanks for your time, Tom

2engsout

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Tom, OK, you have the later style twin sync board. The only changes from the instrutions above is push the opposite buttons on the board ( farthest / closest to the rotory switch) when programing. Send me your email and I will send you my complete (more detailed) programing guide for the newer style twin sync. OK, concerning your throttle geometry, get the pushrod lenth established according to the above instructions, and pull back your ATV's (end points) on your throttle channel. Useful movement of about 40 degrees rotation sounds wrong....confirm that visually by looking down the carb throat. Should be closer to 80 degrees rotation. You could also have carb issues that are cutting the fuel delievery off below half throttle = low end too lean...richen it up and try again after getting the geometry correct. Start at 50 / 50% both sides of neutral and work your way up in %. Make sure both halves are within 5% when finished. Then do the other engines geometry the same. Confirm both sides are the same and no binding, then reprogram the endpoints at the twin sync unit according to the manual. (I will send you mine.) Confirm you are using only 1 magnet per backplate. Your other issues should be resolved by reading my supplemental programing guide and following it step by step. Don't assume anything. Follow the proceedure. It's easy, and it works.... Rick

3dsky

My Feedback: (84)

Hi Rick sent PM, Tom

BUCKAROO

Hi Rick

Sent you a pm.

regards,

Craig.

yl5295

My Feedback: (1)

Guys,

Sorry for the delay in responding. For some reason I am not getting email when people post to this thread as I should.

Anyway is the problem solved now or still working on it?

Thanks for jumping in 2engsout...

3dsky

My Feedback: (84)

I will have to hold off checking out the TwinSync, snow and more snow is stopping me from running the engines. Thanks for the help, I am programming the (JR 9303 for testing) Futaba 9CAP and I will bench check as much as I can.

kahloq

I am considering using one in a KMP 95" B-25 with saito 170 radials

dbkvn

Please excuse my ignorance, but here goes non-the-less...I am going to build a 108" PBY-5A from Vintage R/C Plans (Sid Morgan) using OS .91's, DX-7 radio, retracts and it will weigh about 23-25 lbs...Seeing that the scale PBY's could be flown with one engine, then would one NEED to purchase one of these Twin Sync units then...There seems to be a lot of give and take, it works GREAT, the it works NOT SO GREAT...Please advise...Kevin in Denver

yl5295

My Feedback: (1)

dbkvn,

I am the designer and manufcturer of the product so I will need to depend on people that have used the Twinsync to provide the downsides of using it. The downsides that I am aware of (from supporting customers) is that the installation and programming take time and careful attention. I would very much like to know if there is any other downside of using one besides the purchase price.

As for the upsides I would rank them as the following:
1. alway equal thrust side to side (beneficial even on twin stable on one engine). Most airplanes that are stable on one engine are less stable at full power and with other airplanes in the air you can not determine that you are on one engine except from flight behavior (and in usually in a bad way when you realize it). Automatic idle of other engine when one quits. But it acutally more than that, it matches rpm of the stonger engine to the weaker. So you have sync and equal response even with a bad mixture on one engine (check out you tube video of twinman hovering a twin engine airplane with a twinsync)
2. Sound... people spend lots of money on multi-cylinder engines and exhaust systems for their models to sound great. Nothing sounds better than a synchronised twin. Nothing sounds worse than a badly out of sync twin (watch the demo video on youtube).
3. RPM based on board glow drivers for 4 cycle engines based on RPM. (this is #3 because of your application) Much cheap than other alternatives. These also eliminate the need for glow driver and switch/throttle based glow driver system. Just flip or starter the motors and glow plugs come on.
4. Independant runup and rudder steer mode. Many float plane pilots with twins are now using the rudder steer mode to steer planes on the water with differential engine thrust based on rudder input rather than having rudders on the floats. (nice to have on a PBY). Independant run up lets you adjust and run each engine throughout the throttle range while the other is held in idle.
5) specialized features... This include specific features for the Cessna 337, Ziroli DC3, Palmer C130 quad-sync, custom display modes, and customer sound modes to make engines drone.
6) PCM mode. Twinsync provides PCM like feature of idling both engines if transmitter signal is lost.

The only reason I designed and built it is because I fly (and crash) twins. The other option is a "Y" cable or constant tweaking and programming in heli modes (very unnatural and too much noise polution in the pits each day as the weather changes). It really makes flying a twin like flying a single (until an engine quits). Then control is passed back to you to decide what to do. Pull the stick back and then you have control of the running engine. Throttle up if you are confident. I dead sticked a 100" P-38 six times on one engine. Got too slow on the seventh (oops)... that is another downside of the twinsync... it can give you too much confidence... If you are on one engine find place to land!!!

dbkvn

Thanks for the quick response...Looks like I will getting one of the Twin Sync units when the time comes...Thanks again...Kevin in Denver

jagfab

kevin
i know it is wrong place to post it. have just finished my sid morgan pby 108". in case you have not please do not buy the .90 on account of prop clearance. I am using 2 x75 ax engines with zinger wood props 13x7 and after this i have less than half a inch of space left.

puneet

blampkin

What is the difference between the 2.2 unit that I have and the 2.3 units that are shipping now?

Thanks!

yl5295

My Feedback: (1)

There is no difference in the 2.2 and the 2.3 unit. The 2.3 unit has some PCB provisions for future options that I was considering offering. (i had to build several hundred so I went ahead nd rev'ed it just in case it ws possible). It doesn't look like they are going work out so there is no difference in the 2.3 and 2.2 units. Both have the same chip/firmware.

I was thinking about adding Cyclinder head temp monitoring but I don't think it is going to work. So 2.3 is the same as 2.2.

nemesis4u

My Feedback: (77)

OK... what is the status of the 4 SYNC "QUAD SYNC" ?

Available?

-thanks,

TOMAS
www.vqwarbirds.com
www.bomberfieldusa.com

yl5295

My Feedback: (1)

It has been shipping in production for over a year now with dozens in the field.

nemesis4u

My Feedback: (77)

OK!! PURRRR FECT!!

-TOMAS
www.vqwarbirds.com
[email protected]