yl5295

My Feedback: (1)

one other comment...

You were not clear on using ignition magnets whether you were refering to an electronic ignition with a crank mounted rare earth magnet or or magneto engine with flywheel mounted common magnets.

Crank mounted rare earth magnets will definitely work and are supported as per the manual.

The jury is still deliberating on flywheel mounted magneto magnets. That's needs more testing for a clear answer.

goodinmw

Thanks All,
Great support! I'll let you all know what I try to do and the results- Primary reason I didn't want to mount to the spinner was I wanted to be able to experiment between two and three bladed props. I know two blades are more efficient that three, but the plane only weighs 15 lb and the twin 61s provide tons of power with the three blades, and they sound great!
The collar around the hub sounds intriguing as well.
Mahalo,
Mark[8D]

Acetronics

Hi, Bill

I had asked some enlightments to the " tech support " at RC Showcase ... but, may be, the " tech support" is supposed to be here.

My Questions are about Selector Switch Position 4 :

1) I suppose I am to use Button 1 or Button 2 for changing response time ... am I right ??? ( I really hate surprises, when programming a device !!! )

2) Could you tell me which setting you use with your Cessna's OS Engines ... I'll use a pair of OS 46 SF at first ( aboard a 1/9 Scale B.A.C. CANBERRA ...) .

One more time, thanks to all that work ... I suppose you use Highly advanced programming environment, but your work is still remarkable !!!

Alain

yl5295

My Feedback: (1)

In response to your questions:

1) both buttons change the response time (one goes one direction and the other button goes the other direction)
2) I recomend position 2 for glow engines (with 1.4.X software). For the older 1.2.X software probably about position 4

Thanks for the compliment... code was written in assembly...but yes the chip IC design software is very advanced. This is not just a MCU obviously.

Bill

Blade47

In manual version 1.4.1 front page should it not read....

Engine 1 sensor = JP1
Engine 2 sensor = JP2
Engine 1 servo = JP4
Engine 2 servo = JP3 ..... ????

Very confusing with the typo there can you give the right Engine Sensor/Servo jumper for version 1.4.1

thank you

Cheers

yl5295

My Feedback: (1)

I see what you mean...

IT SHOULD READ:

IMPORTANT: With this version 1.4.1 Software Engine 1 sensor is JP1 and Engine 1 Servo is JP4 (Not JP3 like earlier versions). Engine 2 sensor is JP2 and engine 2 servo is JP3 (Not JP4 like earlier versions).

I HAVE SENT AN UPDATE TO RCS


Here is the deal... The 1.4.1 devices had the servo connections reversed from previous versions of the TwinSync. I will move it back for 1.4.2. So 1.4.2 and newer will be the same as the previos versions. However the inventory at RCS is 1.4.1. My appologies but you have to know if you have version 1.4.1 and if so the servo connections are different from other versions.

It will be very obvious if you have the servo connections backwards. When you move the throttle above the sync point with the engines running one will go to full power and the other will go to idle... Truely an ANTI-SYNC. If this happens to you just swap the servo leads on JP3 and JP4.

Blade47

Should your number 2) answer be ... position 3 for 1.4.x ??

yl5295

My Feedback: (1)

I run on (pos 2) but I have very slow standard servos. Servo speeds affect this setting as well as engine and carb response time. Factory default (pos 4) is for big gas engines. You can speed it up a little for glow but it you set it too fast the will oscilate or hunt a little. The impact of speeding it up is about .5 sec to sync rather than about 1 second.

Blade47

I hate to be a bug [] but again looking at the table in the manual ..If I count down then factory setting is (5) but from the bottom up it is (4) .. I would think most would count the table downward ... possible making the answer 3 or 4

Blade47

I am about to install cable / hardware and have a couple ideas for the glow battery's install. ... would it be OK to post the pics of the install on this thread or should I start another thread?

yl5295

My Feedback: (1)

I think in hex... positions are 0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7 so position 4 is the default (5th line in the table) which corresponds to 04 hex which is 100 binary that matches the leds of OFF, ON, ON.

This thread is fine for posting pictures.

Blade47

OK then this is the project 2/60 that I will be putting the Twin Sync and Display into. I am planning on using Two Glow batteries and will use the the modified holders from your local electronics store..... I also found this handy energizer Charger with four 2300 mah batteries ( very reasonable price )..I would think you could charge and go for the whole weekend. More later

Acetronics

Hi, Blade

I'd like to give an advice about those " low cost" AA Batteries ...

I just bought a tool to measure the internal resistance of Batteries, and the result of measurements is awful !!!

C NiMh cells ( GP 3000 ) , freshly charged, offer a good result with 100 mOhms for 4 cells, plus the 3 pole, 30 cm connector ... no problem, then.

BUT AA cells, also freshly charged, have been measured for 600 mOhms( SANYO NiMh 2100 mAh ) for 4 cells and connector ...

let's take the worst case : the connector is 100mOhms.

125 " real" mOhms per cell ... 3 amp drain .... 375mV lost, ( we can forget the Twinsync P Mos : 7 mOhms typ ) result is your Glow plug will only see 925 mV ... won't glow too much !!!

NOT That GOOD !!!

AND, of course, I do not want to Think to what could happend using those cells to power the radio set and servos ...

NiCads HAVE to be kept for that Battery size, to avoid bad surprises. ( resetting a µP receiver ... i.e. )


PS: SANYO AA cells gave the best-of-all results ( or should I say, the least bad ??? ) , I confirmed those measurements with another home made tester ( Mr Cam's µMetros , see RC-Cam site : http://www.rc-cam.com/forum/index.ph...16&hl=µMetros )

Alain

Blade47

Yikes [X(] !! I can see that it is waaay over my head with the technical and expert advise on this thread .. the only thing about " Hex " that I know about is a Hex Nut and well maybe putting a Hex on someone and as for "resistance" well that Is what I get from my wife when I want to order RC stuff and be measured by the resistance of her hand writing on the check .

( just kidding with you ) I very much appreciate the expert advise given .. I will look into Sanyo AA batteries.

Saw/Hammer kinda of guy.

Acetronics

Hi, Blade

Do not worry with Hex numbering ...

0 to 9 are the same ... but 10 is A , 11 is B ... and so on ... till 15 is F ( just something NOT to speak like others ... I'm just joking )

so, as 18 is 1 time 10 plus 8 times 1 ... FD is 15 times 16 plus 13 times 1 ( 253 as common people say...) !!!

Some people, not very "long sighted" only use 0 and 1s ... that's called Binary [:-] : 1011 is 1 times 8, plus 0 times 4, plus 1 times 2, plus 1 time 1 ... 11 as we say, or also B in Hex.

Now, as number Zero is the first position ... It becomes a bit trickier to find it's way !!! ... just a habbit of cerebral jogging !!!

Same people only know YES or NO answers ... we really are more intelligent as we kwow " May be YES" and " May be NO " !!! ( the question was : Will the inverted looping pass, this afternoon ??? )

Soooooo, Bill ... I Offer you all my apologizing for that " crime de lèse Majesté " [>:] ....

To close the subject ..., Blade, I strongly recommend you to use 3000 Mah Batteries ( 2 x 1700 or 1900 Mah parallelled is also a good choice - but not for the weigh !!! ) for a full afternoon, including the starting and tuning of your engines ... moreover if they are 4 Strokes.

Best Regards

Alain

Blade47

Acetronics: Is the 3000 Mah to feed BOTH plugs or just one?

Acetronics

Hi,

The 3000 mah cell offers me one full flying afternoon for an ASP 80 4 Stroke ... nothing left when time to go home for dinner !!!

1 per engine gives ~ 1 Hour of use ( full time ) ... so, say 10 flights of 10-15 mins , plus starting the engine ( no pain with that ASP !!! )

As a simple calculating rule ... let's say 300 mah per flight and per engine for 4 Stroke , and 250 mah for a 2 Stroke !!!

Alain

Blade47

Stared to fish the wire back to the center of the wing .... with 36" of wire from the engine to the battery ( this will be shortened a lot ) this is the nice fire I get at the other end with the 2700 BUNNY Battery.

cheers

Acetronics

Hi, Bill

Blade's thread gives me an idea : I'll build slave circuits with a power Mosfet and the battery, to place close to each engine ...

That involves absolutely no mod. aboard the twinsync PCB [:-] , I'll just have to build a voltage inverter to drive a P Mosfet's gate ( yours are perfect ) ... due to the Batt voltage detection .

I do not think it would be much complicated ...[]

I'll post you my results as soon as possible ... if you want them.

Alain

yl5295

My Feedback: (1)

Alain,

I understand what you are talking about but I really don't think it is necessary and I don't want people to perceive that there is an issue here. My advice to people making really long runs from the TwinSync to use 16 or 18 AWG wire. I just measured the voltage drop across 10 feet of the 22 AWG 60 strand wire that is on the twinsync glow plug drivers driving a glow plug. It was about 0.250 volts. That makes the glow plug visibly a little weak. I also measured the drop across 30 ft. of 16 AWG common hardware store multistrand wire and it was .310 volts. Both were still hot enough to crank an engine. So 6 ft of 16 AWG would result in about 0.050 volt drop when driving the plugs.

I also tried using a new cheap 1200 mAH AA NiCad battery I paid $0.90 for and it was better that the older Sub-C I have been using. It was 1.25V unloaded and 1.13V with a glow plug connected. So assume that it was putting out 2-4AMPs then that is an internal resistance of 0.025- 0.050 ohms. So I think a single AA is still an option for some people depending on if they are just cranking or always running the plugs at idle.

If you want to build a remote glow switch it will not be obvious because the black wire that goes to glow battery (-) is not ground. It calculates the glow battery voltage through a series of resistor dividers. You basically will have to connect the red and black wire directly to the battery and then use the orange and red wire to operate your circuit (S and D of a p-mos tx). BTW specs on the PMOS I am using is 7mOhms at 4.5V and 13mOhms at 1.8V. Also Good luck finding a mosfet that has a low enough resistance at 1.0V to drive a glow plug. I went through 100s before finding a good one. On resistance goes up as voltage (VGS) goes down. That is probably why most onboard glow driver systems run on 4 cells rather than 1 cell.

Maybe I should productize an onboard glow driver since it would be a whole lot lighter and cheaper and require only one cell.

Bill

Acetronics

Hi, Bill

1) no Pb to drive the P-Mos ... I'll have 3 to 4 volts S to G ... héhé. The Brown wire stays unused ...

2) For the Onboard Glow Driver ... I committed one w/Those features :

- 3 programmation points : Glow off ( High Throttle side ) , Glow Off ( Low Throttle side ) and Fail Safe
- Use of 1 Cell, Power Mosfet is a IRLZ44 or IRL 2203 for multi-cylinders.
- Throttle servo is driven by the Unit : Speed travel limitation ( and Glitches canceller ...) . The servo is driven to Fail-Safe pos. if signal lost, and at Power-up. Throttle stick must be placed on Fail-Safe pos. to unlock the driver.
- 3 more seconds glow lighting if Throttle goes high side. ( Past programmable point )
- Low R/C Batt survey ... if < 4.3v, the servo is Driven 1 Time to Fail Safe. Only 1 Time ...
- Two Leds and a Buzzer offer programming and Alarm for the user.

- Moreover, the device locks if no programming has been done ...

- 50+ have been built and run quietly ( no commercial design ...).

Processor is a 16F628 ...

AND you can find it here : http://aeronews.free.fr/archivesarti...ropratique.zip ... it's FREE.

Electronic files are in the " Thebrain.zip " folder ...

Alain

EDIT : and I've forgotten the best ... This design is totally "Bullet Proof"

Robby

My Feedback: (18)

ok,, So here is a question....
Instead of making the Twin Syn with a glow driver
make the Twin Syn as a base unit,, a Twin Syn..
Then as options offer the glow driver as a seperate unit
and offer the LED tach as seperate unit..
Then make the options as plug-in onto the T/S to an avaliable
port <plug-in> to the T/S..

Possible..?

I have not messed with the glow driver feature of the unit..
I have done some of the other things and also have the LED..

I also prefer the magnets in the hub instead of the spinner..
The only motor I have encountered that presents a proplem
doing this with is the OS LA series..

Acetronics

[&o][&o][&o]

Poor Bill ... as many guys on this forum ... as many options !!!

Alain

yl5295

My Feedback: (1)

I just got off the phone with Robby...

I think he was glad to hear that I basically am already working on prototypes of what he is asking for to be available in December - but with other enhancements.

bigbri

My Feedback: (287)

Just ordered one. Got a question. Does it allow me to run up each engine seperately...IE run up in the AM to see how each is running. And Can I override it in the air to perform single engine out operations.
Thanks
Brian