jfail1

My Feedback: (2)

It has a Independent run up mode. That lets you run up one engine for mixture settings etc. while leaving the other engine at idle, then you can reverse that process and run up the other engine for mixture settings while idling the other one. It requires you to setup a three position switch on your transmitter (if it has that capability, I am using a Futaba 12Z which makes it a piece of cake to set up the switch) one end of the three runs up one engine the other at idle, the other extreme of the switch reverses that process. The middle position of the switch places both engines back in the sync mode. It works great, I set up my TwinStar using it yesterday and works fantastic. The sync process is defeated when in the run up mode but is re-engaged when in the middle position for flying the plane.

It has a second mode which allows you to use a two position switch to either run in sync mode or run without sync to allow you to tune up the engines. You cannot have both, you have to select one mode or the other. The manual is very specific about it.

You could engage it in the air by going to the two extreme positions and simulate a failure. I have not tried it, I am sure Bill will comment on it.

I ran my TwinSync for the first time yesterday and it works flawless. it was really neat to hear the two O.S. 32's sync up every time I moved the throttle stick. Just spend time carefully reading the manual from end to end several times. There is a lot to take in and understand but it is very worth while.

Blade47

Have the main install done ..now need to install the display into the cockpit and put the power to it ...see what lights up

Blade47

I mounted the unit with foam and double sided carpet tape both sides .....the battery holders are mounted with the same two sided carpet tape ..just worked out that the battery's are right on top of my C/G

yl5295

My Feedback: (1)

Blade47,

Are those sensor extension cables 22 or 28 AWG? Should be 22AWG (heavy duty)?
I can't really tell from the pictures what your glowplug wires are from the TwinSync to the plug clips but it looks heavy enough.
Sensor mount looks good as long as you bent the sensors and the face of the sensor is facing the magnet and not the top.

Good looking install as long as the items above are OK.

Blade47

Thank you Bill! The wire on the sensors are HD extensions (12") and I used 20 for the glow plugs The face of the sensors have been bent and I tested last night to mark the magnet face ....worked great.... I just had time to mount the RPM LED and put the power to it [X(][X(] MAN IT IS WAY TO COOL [sm=thumbs_up.gif] it is just perfect ..I will try and get more pic tonight of the rpm install and what it looks like ..others I am sure will want one.

cheers

Blade47

???? will this make the switch positions for the servos 1: and 2: ( for centering ) also reversed ??

Is there any other reason for the Red glow indicator to flash fast other then (<1. and 2.0> ) the reason I ask is that I tested the glow to make sure it works and they do .... I get a nice white hot plug but the red is flashing ( for both plugs ) .... I did take the batteries that I have been taking the pictures with and change out the fresh ones that I had used and still get the same indication ( the plugs are not as hot looking ) but still flash?

I have a Hitec Optic 6 and had set all settings back to normal ( on the TX ) in order to set up the linkage to 100% both ways when done I found that I had the yellow led go OFF at the top of throttle ...so ... I set the TX to revers the servos FROM normal setting and the LED went to OFF at the bottom ...but .... the servos would still travel in the wrong direction .... used the TwinSync to reverse the servo travel (position 7 ) and I ( think ) I noticed that the buttons assigned to each servo was also back wards ( I was nervous on doing my first programing ) The travel direction is now fine ...but would like to know if the buttons are OK.

IF I send back my IC version 1.4.1 on the next major update will all be put back to normal and the above corrected or am I stuck with this backward version? also in sending back the IC to you for update are all user programing inputs deleted?

Blade47

RPM Install

yl5295

My Feedback: (1)

Blade 47,

Yes the centering and reversing buttons are reversed on 1.4.1. If you want to send me the IC then I can update it to 1.4.2 that switches the servos back to the way they were but there is no real reason to do so since it is just a matter of knowing which one is which. I don't expect anymore software changes or updates for a while since there have been no new bugs or features requested in quite a while. 1.4.1 and 1.4.2 seem to solve everything.

As for the glow plug drivers. The red LED will flash for the following reasons:
1. If either of the two battery connections are not between 1.0 and 2.0 volts
2. If either of the glow plugs are burned out. (no or a bad connection of the brown wire will be sensed as a burned out glow plug)

If you want me to help you debug why your red LEDs are flashing the measure the voltage from RX ground (rx battery (-)) to both the brown glow plug wires while the plugs are turned on. The brown wires should be at 1.5 - 2.0 volts.

Otherwise all of your programming sounds correct.

If you get a software update for your IC on the TwinSync everything is reset to factory defaults.

Bill

Blade47

Thanks for the answer Bill I will check the voltage this weekend and let you know. I will have my new spinners next week and can finish the install then.

I will hold off updating the IC till next spring if there is a major by then.

cheers

Blade47

Bill just another fast test until I get my hands on a volt meter ... With Two new plugs and two off the shelf standard 1.5 everyday EverReady's I still get the same thing ... a nice hot looking plug on both plugs at the same time and stay lite for the 10 sec but the red is still flashing .... the other plugs used to date are still good as well.

Blade47

I would just like to inform the readers of this thread that after corresponding with Bill I found that it was my own mistake and NOT the fault of the unit that the red led continued to flash after it had energized the plugs then off after 10 seconds.... I needed to pulse the magnet for more RPM oops [sm=red_smile.gif]

I would like to thank Bill for his time...great product and even better support. [sm=thumbs_up.gif]

cheers

yl5295

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for the compliment. Yes the glow plug drivers are fine. They read battery voltage and plug resistance while there is rpm. So with one rotation of the prop the plugs and battery may not have time to get a correct reading as the driver ciruit is powering up. They will still come on for 10 seconds but the led might flash during that period if only given one rotation. If the prop is rotated a second time the plugs will be hot and it will read the correct battery voltage and plug resistance on the second rotation.

Blade47 did find a bug though very minor. I disabled the servo centering function in the 1.4.1 and 1.4.2 software. This is because there is no real way to reset it back to factory default of zero centering correction besides just using a servo and receiver and setting it to where it looks like it is centered. It will only become a problem if someone moves center too far and the servo binds. I will turn it back on in 1.4.3 but I will also add a reset programming option to set everything back to factory defaults incase someone move the centers too far.

Blade47

I like the RESET option ... it will give me the chance to explore the full range of the unit and be able to back out if I muck it up. Also will the pin out for the servos be changed back to J3 and J4?

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

A reset option would be great!

Put J3 & J4 back to original.

Add polarity markings to diagrams in manual, and you'd have pefection!!!

Blade47

Bill! In mode four Rudder steering it states in the manual to "assume" that the Alux channel is plugged into rudder on the RX ...would "assume"= "Y" cable to Rx+rudder servo+ Alux channel ?

yl5295

My Feedback: (1)

yes

Blade47

Thanks

deltatech

I have a Top Flite DC-3 with 2 OS 40la engines. I have prop nuts/hubs for scale look but not spinners I don't really see a way to mount magnets securly. If I get the Twin Sync system could I place an aluminum plate behind the prop to hold the magnets? What do you suggest? What dia/can I use a rectangular aluminum plate rather that a disk?

yl5295

My Feedback: (1)

Deltatech,

There are three options:
1. Plate behind prop that magnet mounts into. Magnets are 3/16" x 1/16". So plate needs to be at least the diameter of the prop hub + 1/2". You could use aluminum or PCB matterial (fiberglass).
2. I have diametric magnets that are 1/8" diameter x 1/4" long. Diametric means the North/South poles are on the sides rather than ends. You can drill a 1/8" hole in the front of the prop hub parallel to the crank shaft 1/4" deep. Put the magnet in there and the sensor then can sense the magnet in the prop hub and no disk is needed. They are $2.50 per pair.
3. I will come out with optical sensors in the near future. TBD

Bill

Acetronics

Hi, Bill

May be another Way to sense the engine rotation ...

From the rear side cover, detecting the crankshaft pin ( sorry ...what's the exact word ? Where the rod big end is ), the magnet needs to be placed ON The sensor.
May be you saw such use in DATAS ( Hall applications guide from ALLEGRO p.33 ... i.e. ).

Webra engines used such a detection principle for their electronic ignition a while ago ... so it works !!!

Alain

yl5295

My Feedback: (1)

The sensors I use are digital with other circuitry in them. Sensors used in turbines and one that would work like you propose are analog and would require support circuitry that is not on the twinsync. Additionally crank mount would require a press and re-balancing the crank. Much more involved than most people would want to get into.

Acetronics

You're right, Bill


Your sensors are a bit special ( High sensitivy US ... ) I've already used a "second source" of those sensors ... to detect if my portal is well closed !!!

Note that Support circuitry for linear sensors wouldn't be so difficult to add whithout any mod to existing Twinsyncs. One more option [&o] ???

Alain

yl5295

My Feedback: (1)

Deltatech,

In talking with customers today I found out that the OS LA engines are about the only engine that the diametric magnets will not work in because of the prop hub design.

So you are back to two options:
1. plate behind prop.
2. Wait for me to delevelop the optical sensor.

Bill

Blade47

Bill! In mode four Rudder steering ... Is the mode disengaged above 1/2 throttle when flying?

yl5295

My Feedback: (1)

Yes as designed...

It is designed for steering -- not aerobatics. I asked if anyone wanted a mode for aerobatics and no one spoke up.

It has a 10% deadband in the middle so rudder trim does not affect sync. Then +/- 100% rudder throw results in +/- 50% throttle that is linear except for the dead band in the center.

If I were to add an aerobatic mode it would operate above 25% throttle and go +/- 100% throttle with +/- 100% rudder.