Palmer 132" AC-130 Build
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RE: Palmer 132" C-130 Build
One of my elite recon team doing a preliminary check of the jump doors. Funny how my entire team is comprised of midgets.
The diagonal member will be re-routed to allow for full open access of the jump doors. The door walk-platform is completed
Mike
The diagonal member will be re-routed to allow for full open access of the jump doors. The door walk-platform is completed
Mike
#252
RE: Palmer 132" C-130 Build
ORIGINAL: gsmith6879
For the straight section a laser will work but the stringer will need to follow the curvature of the fuselage and that is where the "eyeball" method comes in. It is more of an art to get the stringers to work out right.
For the straight section a laser will work but the stringer will need to follow the curvature of the fuselage and that is where the "eyeball" method comes in. It is more of an art to get the stringers to work out right.
I was thinking of using a protractor to set the angle of the stringer from the center of the former then transit a line outside the fuselage to the point where the laser could be projected back onto the fuselage at the correct oblique angle and provide the straight line for the stringer or atleast a vast majority of the stringer provided it doesn't traverse more than 2 dimensions. Does that even make sense?
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RE: Palmer 132" C-130 Build
Uker, looks really good! That is some great project you embarked on there buddy, I'm sure following this thread with great interest. BTW what kind of mechanism will you be using to "urge" your recon men to jump out of a perfectly good airplane?
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RE: Palmer 132" C-130 Build
Orvel,
Not sure about the release mechanism yet. Could be anything from a simple tube with all the jumpers loaded, then they just slide out when "prompted. Could be a device that alternates pushing them out both jump doors. Either way, its just one of the many side projects I have included in my Herc.
I'm tinkering with several ideas, including a track system for pallet/cargo drops. I'm trying to keep it modular so I can plug in either deployment system using the same servo channel. Then the only thing I might have to adjust is this channel's travel percentage. Ideas must include:
- light weight as not to effect the CG significantly
- Modular, must be easy to install or remove at the field
- must run on a single servo or self contained mechanism. Options for this include using an alternate TX/RX.
- Must not effect of interfere with normal flight as its being deployed
I will have some of my ideas posted in the coming weeks. I have to get the cargo area track system worked out (servo mounted) before sheeting the belly.
Mike
Not sure about the release mechanism yet. Could be anything from a simple tube with all the jumpers loaded, then they just slide out when "prompted. Could be a device that alternates pushing them out both jump doors. Either way, its just one of the many side projects I have included in my Herc.
I'm tinkering with several ideas, including a track system for pallet/cargo drops. I'm trying to keep it modular so I can plug in either deployment system using the same servo channel. Then the only thing I might have to adjust is this channel's travel percentage. Ideas must include:
- light weight as not to effect the CG significantly
- Modular, must be easy to install or remove at the field
- must run on a single servo or self contained mechanism. Options for this include using an alternate TX/RX.
- Must not effect of interfere with normal flight as its being deployed
I will have some of my ideas posted in the coming weeks. I have to get the cargo area track system worked out (servo mounted) before sheeting the belly.
Mike
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RE: Palmer 132" C-130 Build
ORIGINAL: schwatd
I was thinking of using a protractor to set the angle of the stringer from the center of the former then transit a line outside the fuselage to the point where the laser could be projected back onto the fuselage at the correct oblique angle and provide the straight line for the stringer or atleast a vast majority of the stringer provided it doesn't traverse more than 2 dimensions. Does that even make sense?
ORIGINAL: gsmith6879
For the straight section a laser will work but the stringer will need to follow the curvature of the fuselage and that is where the "eyeball" method comes in. It is more of an art to get the stringers to work out right.
For the straight section a laser will work but the stringer will need to follow the curvature of the fuselage and that is where the "eyeball" method comes in. It is more of an art to get the stringers to work out right.
I was thinking of using a protractor to set the angle of the stringer from the center of the former then transit a line outside the fuselage to the point where the laser could be projected back onto the fuselage at the correct oblique angle and provide the straight line for the stringer or atleast a vast majority of the stringer provided it doesn't traverse more than 2 dimensions. Does that even make sense?
I think you are on the right track. Just don't get too precise. After all you will be covering all that stinger work up with sheeting.
Gaines
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RE: Palmer 132" C-130 Build
My LHS got my wheels in today. I bought the 4.5" Sullivan Skylite wheels with the aluminum hubs.
Pic#1- I painted the hubs white to match the nose wheels. I had to drill out the nylon bearings to 1/4" to match the Century Jet axles.
Pic#2 & #3 - Wheels mounted to the retract slider bar. They fit quite nicely.
Now the bad news. Although everything fits, I found another area to watch out for. I could not test fit my main gear doors. The wheels were sticking out too far in the retracted position. After alittle investigating, I see the retract slider board I got from Precisioncutkits is the wrong height. It's off by 1/4". And this small distance allows the doors to close flush. I did have to trim some of the formers at 14 and 15 so the tire would not rub. Just be sure to measure the distance of these two formers from the box frame before gluing
Correction: I need to remeasure my lower strut holes and move them 1/4" closer to the top of the slider board. Not a big issue, just a minor setback.
I framed the aft wheel wells instead of using a block of shaped soft balsa. It seemed to work well. As I sheet this section, I can start to see the shape of the fuselage. Is there an intake scoop on one of the wheel wells?
Mike
Pic#1- I painted the hubs white to match the nose wheels. I had to drill out the nylon bearings to 1/4" to match the Century Jet axles.
Pic#2 & #3 - Wheels mounted to the retract slider bar. They fit quite nicely.
Now the bad news. Although everything fits, I found another area to watch out for. I could not test fit my main gear doors. The wheels were sticking out too far in the retracted position. After alittle investigating, I see the retract slider board I got from Precisioncutkits is the wrong height. It's off by 1/4". And this small distance allows the doors to close flush. I did have to trim some of the formers at 14 and 15 so the tire would not rub. Just be sure to measure the distance of these two formers from the box frame before gluing
Correction: I need to remeasure my lower strut holes and move them 1/4" closer to the top of the slider board. Not a big issue, just a minor setback.
I framed the aft wheel wells instead of using a block of shaped soft balsa. It seemed to work well. As I sheet this section, I can start to see the shape of the fuselage. Is there an intake scoop on one of the wheel wells?
Mike
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RE: Palmer 132" C-130 Build
ORIGINAL: schwatd
Nice work Mike, the wheels look outstanding. Yes there is an air inlet here's a couple of pics.
Nice work Mike, the wheels look outstanding. Yes there is an air inlet here's a couple of pics.
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RE: Palmer 132" C-130 Build
After cutting, shaping, and sanding, I still cant quite get my main gear doors to close flush. Here are some of the initial pictures when I found out the doors would not fit. After moving the main struts to the correct mount point, the gear doors were still not mounting flush. I have decided to build the doors out of fiberglass.
Mike
Mike
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RE: Palmer 132" C-130 Build
Hi Mike,
You have excellent and beautiful subject and build going on, C-130 is one of my want to do subject also but i recently got myself Palmer 165" WS B-24. Some work has already being done to its fuselage but all remaining work still has to be done. It seems as Dan Palmer preferred struss box method for his design on model fuselages, i see same on you Herky bird also. I have started another thread for my model but it seems as either not that many guys like B24 or not many have been built at 1/8th scale. Keep the awesome work going on as i am keeping eye on it now and i am sure at one point or another we both can exchange some aspect of similarities between our builds....
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5697820/tm.htm
Sorry didn't mean to hijack your thread.
Sammy
You have excellent and beautiful subject and build going on, C-130 is one of my want to do subject also but i recently got myself Palmer 165" WS B-24. Some work has already being done to its fuselage but all remaining work still has to be done. It seems as Dan Palmer preferred struss box method for his design on model fuselages, i see same on you Herky bird also. I have started another thread for my model but it seems as either not that many guys like B24 or not many have been built at 1/8th scale. Keep the awesome work going on as i am keeping eye on it now and i am sure at one point or another we both can exchange some aspect of similarities between our builds....
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5697820/tm.htm
Sorry didn't mean to hijack your thread.
Sammy
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RE: Palmer 132" C-130 Build
Props4ever/Sammy,
Welcome to the world of Palmer Plans insanity. I'm slowly begining to see his way of thinking.[X(] Just a word of caution when building from the Palmer plans. ALWAYS read ahead 5-7 steps and STUDY the plans. Always watch how the current portion of your build will impact a later section. I haven't made any critical errors (fingers corssed) yet. Beware that measurements may not be consistent from sheet to sheet. Other than that, have fun. These are planes that take a considerable amount of time to complete.
It may be premature, but I'm shooting for a spring/summer 2008 test flight.
Mike
Welcome to the world of Palmer Plans insanity. I'm slowly begining to see his way of thinking.[X(] Just a word of caution when building from the Palmer plans. ALWAYS read ahead 5-7 steps and STUDY the plans. Always watch how the current portion of your build will impact a later section. I haven't made any critical errors (fingers corssed) yet. Beware that measurements may not be consistent from sheet to sheet. Other than that, have fun. These are planes that take a considerable amount of time to complete.
It may be premature, but I'm shooting for a spring/summer 2008 test flight.
Mike
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RE: Palmer 132" C-130 Build
ORIGINAL: UkerDuker
ALWAYS read ahead 5-7 steps and STUDY the plans. Always watch how the current portion of your build will impact a later section.
Mike
ALWAYS read ahead 5-7 steps and STUDY the plans. Always watch how the current portion of your build will impact a later section.
Mike
WOW i didn't knew these were so complicated plans, mind you i just looked at them briefly but sounds like they are not designed to do step by step build as many other Plans and kits out there..What ways did you took when you started this build and what were or are your methods/system to achieve this goal?.
Regards,
Sammy
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RE: Palmer 132" C-130 Build
Troy,
Here's a couple pics to show my progress up to today.
Pic#1- Overall picture showing the extent of my weeks of working on this. I just finished framing the nose tonight. I'm having a slight mating issue with my removeable cockpit and the cockpit mount platform.
Pic#2- Nose view looking aft. Thats my large robart air tank installed in the forward cargo area.
Pic#3- This is my new fiberglass main gear doors. After my original doors didnt fit, I laid-up some 4oz glass over them. I just need to cut to the correct shape, then add some internal ribs for support.
Mike
Here's a couple pics to show my progress up to today.
Pic#1- Overall picture showing the extent of my weeks of working on this. I just finished framing the nose tonight. I'm having a slight mating issue with my removeable cockpit and the cockpit mount platform.
Pic#2- Nose view looking aft. Thats my large robart air tank installed in the forward cargo area.
Pic#3- This is my new fiberglass main gear doors. After my original doors didnt fit, I laid-up some 4oz glass over them. I just need to cut to the correct shape, then add some internal ribs for support.
Mike
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RE: Palmer 132" C-130 Build
ORIGINAL: UkerDuker
Props4ever/Sammy,
Just a word of caution when building from the Palmer plans. ALWAYS read ahead 5-7 steps and STUDY the plans. Always watch how the current portion of your build will impact a later section.
Beware that measurements may not be consistent from sheet to sheet.
Mike
Props4ever/Sammy,
Just a word of caution when building from the Palmer plans. ALWAYS read ahead 5-7 steps and STUDY the plans. Always watch how the current portion of your build will impact a later section.
Beware that measurements may not be consistent from sheet to sheet.
Mike
You are so right about reading few steps ahead and studying about Palmer plans!!, i just went over first full side sheet and to my surprise it doesn't have conventional wing and fuselage mating area!, Both inner wings actually plug into fuselage with copper wing tubes going through cross section of the fuselage according to the plans and what i got in box of bits!.
I will be replacing these copper tubes with aluminum tubes as wing and fuselage joiners...Thanks for the early advice.
#268
RE: Palmer 132" C-130 Build
Mike,
Boy that really have rohe classic C-130 look going on, are you going to add the raydomes and gun blisters now? before you get too mach more sheeted so that you can mate some of the structual componets to the guns and cameras. Got my tires,...wow are they big. Not very soft though, well, back to work, have a nice weekend!
Boy that really have rohe classic C-130 look going on, are you going to add the raydomes and gun blisters now? before you get too mach more sheeted so that you can mate some of the structual componets to the guns and cameras. Got my tires,...wow are they big. Not very soft though, well, back to work, have a nice weekend!
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RE: Palmer 132" C-130 Build
ukerduker i have a c-130 coast guard scrach build 105 inch L and 144 wingspan , all the big letters is the plane now , but the small letters like , main door letters , engines letters, and all small letters to decorate my plane , my plane look sow empty and so clean that i need some grahpics to get the plane more scale and realistic look, do you know any company who can make me those decals please reply [email protected]
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RE: Palmer 132" C-130 Build
Mario,
If you have pictures of the graphics you want to add to your Herc, you can contact Callie at http://www.hobbies-n-stuff.com/ . She made my decals/graphics for my E-2c Hawkeye (still slowly coming along). Very nice!
Troy,
I think I an staying with a slick version for my Herc. I would love to have the visual effect of having all the AC-130 add-on parts, but doing paradrops would be alot more fun. I'm trying to get the nose section finished and get my removeable cockpit mounting hardware setup done. Have you looked at how the outboard wing sections attach? Have you tried to find the "SIG Wing Joiner" that the plans call for? I haven't found anything.
Prop4ever-
Notice in one of my last posted pics, I have not run my stringers on the upper fuselage. This is one area I know will impact another. Somewhere on top I will be mounting my center wing section. I just haven't reached that point, so I leave it only half-build for now. I have read my instructions several times just to make sure I'm not screwing anything up.
Mike
If you have pictures of the graphics you want to add to your Herc, you can contact Callie at http://www.hobbies-n-stuff.com/ . She made my decals/graphics for my E-2c Hawkeye (still slowly coming along). Very nice!
Troy,
I think I an staying with a slick version for my Herc. I would love to have the visual effect of having all the AC-130 add-on parts, but doing paradrops would be alot more fun. I'm trying to get the nose section finished and get my removeable cockpit mounting hardware setup done. Have you looked at how the outboard wing sections attach? Have you tried to find the "SIG Wing Joiner" that the plans call for? I haven't found anything.
Prop4ever-
Notice in one of my last posted pics, I have not run my stringers on the upper fuselage. This is one area I know will impact another. Somewhere on top I will be mounting my center wing section. I just haven't reached that point, so I leave it only half-build for now. I have read my instructions several times just to make sure I'm not screwing anything up.
Mike
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RE: Palmer 132" C-130 Build
Something exciting for all C-130 enthusiasts enjoy:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=SgN7toNH3ng
Mike,
I will check the your last posted pictures shortly....
In another video same pilot landed it at 100mph, bounced few times and then turned sharp to right while model clipped its left wing with the ground to stop the model!![:@], no wonder he broke the spar in above video due to horsing around nonsensely , guy was hot roding with sweet and gentle Herky bird......
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ecdDV5zT09A
http://youtube.com/watch?v=SgN7toNH3ng
Mike,
I will check the your last posted pictures shortly....
In another video same pilot landed it at 100mph, bounced few times and then turned sharp to right while model clipped its left wing with the ground to stop the model!![:@], no wonder he broke the spar in above video due to horsing around nonsensely , guy was hot roding with sweet and gentle Herky bird......
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ecdDV5zT09A
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RE: Palmer 132" C-130 Build
Props4ever-
WOW, that was a nice Herc in the video. Not sure what happened on that last landing. Looks like the wing spar failed.
I have been working on getting my cockpit mounting finalized. I bought some Bob Violett hatch pins to line everything up.
Pic#1- hatch in place where I want it. Ready to drill pilot holes to mark my hatch pins.
Pic#2- Female hatch pin receivers installed.
This works really well. Its a snugg fit when installing the cockpit, but fits perfectly. I do have to shim a small gap that I didnt account for after I mounted the pins. No biggie.
I have started sheeting the nose. I'll have more pics when I have then initial sanding done.
Mike
WOW, that was a nice Herc in the video. Not sure what happened on that last landing. Looks like the wing spar failed.
I have been working on getting my cockpit mounting finalized. I bought some Bob Violett hatch pins to line everything up.
Pic#1- hatch in place where I want it. Ready to drill pilot holes to mark my hatch pins.
Pic#2- Female hatch pin receivers installed.
This works really well. Its a snugg fit when installing the cockpit, but fits perfectly. I do have to shim a small gap that I didnt account for after I mounted the pins. No biggie.
I have started sheeting the nose. I'll have more pics when I have then initial sanding done.
Mike
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RE: Palmer 132" C-130 Build
ORIGINAL: UkerDuker
Props4ever-
WOW, that was a nice Herc in the video. Not sure what happened on that last landing. Looks like the wing spar failed.
Props4ever-
WOW, that was a nice Herc in the video. Not sure what happened on that last landing. Looks like the wing spar failed.
Your answers are in this video, seems they have more money then brains on how to fly properly!:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=ecdDV5zT0...elated&search=
#274
RE: Palmer 132" C-130 Build
That video was great, shows how to land late with the needed amount of room and forcing the plane down to the ground, oh and breaking the wing! Beautiful plane though, did they build it or buy it from a builder,....hum. Mike I love the idea of those pins, I hadn't even considered them, great move!
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RE: Palmer 132" C-130 Build
Troy,
The nose is really starting to take shape. These pics show the small gap I was talking about. I should have placed the pins higher on the forward cockpit former. I need that gap to allow for installation. It shouldnt be too noticable once its painted.
The nose still needs a final sanding to clean it up and get the right shape.
Mike
The nose is really starting to take shape. These pics show the small gap I was talking about. I should have placed the pins higher on the forward cockpit former. I need that gap to allow for installation. It shouldnt be too noticable once its painted.
The nose still needs a final sanding to clean it up and get the right shape.
Mike