wolfie

Hi Mike

Tanks

bott i have a problem is this right on foto 1 and 2

foto 3 is the extendet verson c-130j-30 extra ribs

Tanks Thomas

oltimer

Travis;

What you are doing for the basic structure is the same as I did. However, when you put the outer wing and the center section together be sure to set the incidence BEFORE you start with the shear webbing. Otherwise you may have a twist in the wrong direction. I put the center section up side down on the table with Nac-1 clamped against my reference (your aluminum angle). Then I made sure the top of the outer panel was flat too, since the drawings show the wing top as a straight line. The bottom of the outer panel tapers up when the wing is up side down. Be careful of incidence when up side down. We want the engines at 0 degrees and the wing center section should be at -5 degrees. Adjust the outer wing accordingly. Make sure to fixture the outer panel very firmly so it doesn't change while you are putting in the shear webbing. After I had the wing fixtured and the webbing complete I sheeted the bottom of the wing to give it some stiffness. I then turned the whole assembly over and re-clamped the Nac-1 to the fixture (angle) and proceeded to construct the engine nacelle. I did put the firewall in place while the wing was up side down to get it aligned with the inboard engines. I used a staight edge scale to align all of the firewalls.

I did not make any of the ribs over since only one was real bad for alignment. What I did was to use a piece of 1/8" square spruce and lined it up with the first and last flap ribs. I used a 1/2 x 1/2 " alum angle to make sure the spruce piece was straight. I clamped everythng in place and glued the spruce strip to the trainling edge of each flap rib and let it dry. I then removed the angle and repaired any ribs that did not line up properly using 1/8 " square balsa pieces from the rear spar to the spruce end piece. In my case I plan to make use of the spruce piece when I put on the covering over the flap as I did on the center section. It is very strong and lighter than the plywood construction recommended. Ya, I did the math!! The fiberglass is about 1 3/4 lighter in fact and I only need one coat of primer then paint as opposed to glass, primer, filler and paint.

I used a round dowel of the approximate diameter of the cutout for the flap cove and sanded all ribs to batch the dowel. This made the flap fit perfect and without peaks and valleys in the ribs. I did the same with the aileron cove. I will use fiberglass to fill the cove after I sheet the rest of the wing with balsa and glass (glass over the flap area as on the center section).

All of my outer wing assembly was done with the outer panel bolted to the center section and the aluminum tube iinserted into the carbon fiber tubes. This is a MUST DO to get everythng aligned properly. After I had everythng set up the way it should be I cemented the outboard carbon fiber tube in place. I use a 1/4-20 bolt in the hole just in front of the front spar and a 1/4" dowel just behing the rear spar for wing alignment. This was done to make the ribs line up and the holes for the carbon fiber tube was fit AFTER the two rib joints were aligned. Now when I sheet the outer panel of he wing the sheeting will match perfectly. I will post pictures tomorrow when I have the flap and ailerons in place.

I hope this answers your questions correctly. I know this is a sticky wicket as they say in the U.K. but its well worth the extra effrot to get it right.

Regards, Frank

Please ask if you have any further questions as this is a comunity project after all and I have asked many, many questions myself on this forum.

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

Wolfie,
I believe that gap on your wheel well former is correct. I cannot remember exactly what it's for though. There might be a stringer that runs through that gap.


All,
If this project isn't hard enough, I started another side project. I decided to bash a GP Easy Sport 40. I'm removing the single engine and installing a pair of OS52 4c's. To complicate even further, I'm installing them as pushers. I started a separate thread to document this kit bashing. It should be a rocket![8D]

Mike

shoveldirt

Frank-

Okay. Just confirming that the outer wing should be jigged up with the center section BEFORE installing the shear webbing. I have installed some of the webbing, but stopped. Basically only up to the nacelle, front spars only. The carbon tube slid into place with only sanding the front or rear of the holes in the ribs; none vertically. I slid the outer wing onto the alum pole and WR9 and 10 lined up very well (I was surprised). So, clamp a straight edge to the top of the rear spars as opposed to the bottom. Should the front spars be done the same way? I thought the straight edge clamped to the leading edge would handle the front of the wing, but now that I think about it, the front spars should be straightened from the top as well. CRAP! I hope I can get the top edge straight now. I have glued all the ribs in place with both the top and bottom tapering to the wingtip. That explains all the weight you had on the bottoms.

I'm gonna order a couple of those incidence meters you have to make sure everything is perfect.

Do you have any pictures of the process you used to align the trailing edges of the ribs (1/8" square)? Did you only glue the ribs that met the square spruce? Did you cut the ribs behind the rear spars and fill in the gaps?

Thanks,
Travis


Mike...dude-

You sure are a glutton for punishment.

shoveldirt

Frank-

I've gone back and looked at some of the pictures you posted earlier of the wing in the jig. I just noticed that you built it right side up. I think I've got it now. Thanks for all the help.

On another note, how are you going to attach the center section to the fuse? I notice that you didn't have the weird "T" shaped pieces in place.

Travis

oltimer

Wolfe;

The gap is for the side sheeting to fit into when you sheet the side of the airplane.

Frank

oltimer

Travis;

I have them made up but I will fit them when I join the two assemblies and everything is aligned. I need to make sure that the wingtip to fuselage is the same on both sides so I had to build the wings to get that dimension. There is too much chance of error if you use only the center section tips.

Frank

shoveldirt

Frank-

How are you going to get the carbon tube trough them? Or are you going to split them somehow?

Travis

oltimer

Travis;

I am posting some pictures of my build so far for your inspection and use. I did cut a quadrant out of the wing mounting parts so I could get it around the C/F spar. I will use Fiberglass tape across the gaps for insurance.

Most of my rib T.E. lined up pretty good except two and I rebuilt the rear of them to match. Pictures will show this too. I may have to send them in two batches. There are seven pictures that I have selected that should answer some of your questions. Good Luck! Just go easy and stay with it. The best thing to do is keep everything on each side in a fixture until you have it built. You may have to turn the assembly over for items on the bottom and then back upright for items for assembly on the top. I started the assembly process with the wing upside down as I said earlier and completed the bottom sheeting and as much of the nacelle as I could. The I re-fixtured it again right side up as you will see in the pictures. I did this to ensure that the incidence stayed put!

Picture 1 shows the center section upside down and clamped in place with the engine nacelle's clamped to the reference board at 0 degrees incidence. The wing center section incidence reads -5 degrees at this point (being upside down). This picture also shows the long aluminum bar that I used to align the firewalls on the center section and the outboard panel. I clamped all in alignment and then cemented the outboard in place being sure that it was perpendicular to the work surface for 0 degrees thrust line like the inboards are.

Picture 2 shows overall wing layout in the fixture with the L.H. outer panel in place right side up. The incidence on the center section of the wing will now be +5 degrees as it is for flight. The tip of the outer panel should be +3 degrees for a net 2 degrees of washout. This part is where you really do need to have at least one incidence meter (two would be better) but the one will do. You just have to move it back and forth.
I will do the same thing on the R.H. panel.

Picture 3 shows the 1/8" square spruce stringer across the T.E. of the flap ribs. I used gussets to give so added strength. If the rib didn't match the spruce spar (with the 1/2 x 1/2 alum angle or something straight to make sure the spruce stringer is straight) I re-built the rib T.E. to match the others. As I said earlier I only needed to do this to two ribs.

Picture 4 shows a 1/2" spacer under the engine firewall as this is approximately what the plans show. This also helps to align the outboard engine nacelle. The next picture shows how I alligned the firewalls.

Picture 5 shows the location of my outboard wing fastener and acess hatch in the bottom of the wing.

Picture 6 shows the wooden dowel that keeps the T.E. in alignment I drilled both left and rignt wing ribs at the same time so they would match. I then secured them with the bolt to the center section and then connected the outer panel to these ribs. I had to adjust the spar ends to match the WR-10 rib.

Picture 7 shows the top of the engine nacelle that you asked me about a while back. I have built a "pocket" alongside of the nacelle that the cowl fits into The pocket is about 3/8" deep so I can put screws through it to hold the cowl in place. This has worked out pretty good and keeps the waviness out of the cowl sides when they are installed.

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

Frank,

What are the dimensions of you wing assembly table? The problem I have right now is the lack of space to setup the wing to achieve the proper washout. I can setup the center section and one wing half, but not the second wing panel.

Mike

oltimer

Mike;

I'm only doing one half of the wing at a time. Right now I'm doing the L.H. outboard wing with the cneter section attached as the reference. My table is 96" long and 48" wide, but I'm only using about 24" of the width. As long as you watch the incidence angles during your fixturing it doesn't matter if you do one or both wings at the same time.

Frank

wolfie

hallo all /Mike do you make the frame too the windue or is it in the kit

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

Wolfie,

I'm not sure what your asking. Can you explain further?

Mike

wolfie

Hi Mike i am making the nose frame the wood frame too make the cockpit

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

OK, I think I understand now. The windows are formed when I assembled the cockpit. Yes, this was part of the kit.

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

OK guys,

After a short break I am back to working on my wing. I took some time to build a small twin pusher plane. It flew great, but ultimately died when I got hit with some interference at my field. It flew great, but spiraled in to its death. I attached the before and after pics. SInce this incident, I will be adding the 2.4ghz setup to my Herc. I'm not losing this bird to radio interference, I would prefer to lose it to stupidity.

I finally took some time to clean off the mess from my work bench and I now have a flat surface to build on. I got an email from Dan. I should have my lights this week. I'm also still working to get my lower ramp door right. I might have to scrap it and start over. I will post some pictures if I make any progress.

Mike

mario tavarez14

My Feedback: (37)

finnally you back , so i can keeping saving pictures hahahahha

wolfie

Hi Mick the nose i a pain in the bott it is total disaster i dont now whot too do

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

Wolfie,

The key to building the cockpit assembly is ALOT of patience. You have to make sure every part, as per the plan, is placed exactly where it needs to go. If not your windows will not be symetrical.

I am concerned about your construction of FF4, FF6, & FF7. Something does not look right. Shouldnt there be a lower keel that extends from the fuselage frame? Also, make sure your mounting blocks for the nose gear will mount correctly.

Mike

wolfie

Hi
the lower keel is to make the nose not drop the front is too havy
i sendt the landing gear back too centery jet the gear where too small

oltimer

Travis, Mike;

Travis, a while back you asked me how I covered the cowl. I said it was covered with fiberglass sheeting, .010 thick. I have taken pictures this time to show you how I did it. I hope this helps you. How is the wing coming along?

Attached are four pictures of the cowl covering and one of my modified landing light that I got from Dan. I used a flashlight that I bought from Batteries Plus and modified it to use Dan's LED. It has a much brighter light with the flashlight reflector.

Frank

roger2525

Hi
I see you didnt use the plywood fomers in the front nose. That is my hold up on my plane as i cant get them to fit right. Can anyone help on this on how to get them to fit or should I leave them out

Thank Roger

oltimer

Roger;

My cut kit didn't come with these parts cut right either. I made a template out of poster board and cut and fit it to make it fit the notches in the formers. When the template fit and looked O.K. I cut four set of parts out of 3/32" lite ply and glued one in place on each side of the fuse. Then when they were dry I laminated the second piece over the first sandwich style. I found it much easier to handle two thinner pieces than to wrestle with one thick piece that doesn't want to bend very well. Hope this gives you some ideas!

Frank

rtigg

My Feedback: (7)

hello Guys, just got plans,,,ordering wood later,,,keep up the hard work thanks

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

rtigg,

Welcome to the Palmer build!! This will be a very challenging build, but there is alot of help in this forum.

Good luck.
Mike