Don Smith A-26
11-13-2006, 04:36 PM
#1
Don Smith A-26
I've got started on a Don Smith 120" A-26 Invader a few months ago . I've got two Quadra-Arrow 400 engines with C&H ignition. Retracts will be from Sierra. I plan to use 5955tg servos for the main flight controls. Also I will be building the "C" model instead of the gun nosed "B".
Has anyone here either built or flown this plane??? I'm hoping for a build time of around 1.5 years. Flight time will hopefully much longer.
Dave
Has anyone here either built or flown this plane??? I'm hoping for a build time of around 1.5 years. Flight time will hopefully much longer.
Dave
11-14-2006, 09:13 AM
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RE: Don Smith A-26
Sorry that you had problems posting at RCSB. Would like to see you continue your build here. Mine is going to take considerably longer than 1.5 years. 
Past that benchmark a long time ago! Here are some pictures.
Past that benchmark a long time ago! Here are some pictures.
11-14-2006, 12:11 PM
#3
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RE: Don Smith A-26
Hi there,
Mine has taken considerably longer than 1.5 yrs, I guess this is the 4th year or so. Long hours on the job limit my building time considerably, but fortunately, a fried of mine retired last year and gave me a helping hand on the monster and it is now nearing the painting stage. Originally, I was going to power it with twin 3W 24 engines, however I has serious reservations about this setup, and have now bought two Zenoah G45's. The build proved quite challenging, as the plans lack detail, especially for mating the centre section with the fuse. Anyway, I have tried to attach some photos but am not sure if I did it right. Good luck on the building.
Joseph
Mine has taken considerably longer than 1.5 yrs, I guess this is the 4th year or so. Long hours on the job limit my building time considerably, but fortunately, a fried of mine retired last year and gave me a helping hand on the monster and it is now nearing the painting stage. Originally, I was going to power it with twin 3W 24 engines, however I has serious reservations about this setup, and have now bought two Zenoah G45's. The build proved quite challenging, as the plans lack detail, especially for mating the centre section with the fuse. Anyway, I have tried to attach some photos but am not sure if I did it right. Good luck on the building.
Joseph
11-15-2006, 11:57 AM
#5
RE: Don Smith A-26
I'll restart my build here. First off I've been out of the hobby for about 14 years. It's good to be cutting balsa again. being my favorite plane ordered out a set of Don Smith plans in 1/7 scale. This gives it a 120" wingspar. The first thing you have to remember is that this paln is a blow up of his 105" plan. Thus when you put a piece of 3/8" balsa on the plan it is samll. Or don't order out a 4.5" nose wheel as called out on the plan or you will be sorry[sm=cry_smile.gif]
I always start with the tail. This plan calls for building a top and bottom half. Seemed to go ok but when I was done the tail had warped and was unusable. Probabily something I had done or humidity, etc. I built a new stab by sandwiching in 1/32 plywood with two pieces of balsa at the rear. This made the rear stab very strong and it just won't bend or warp. I built the stab as one peice covered with 1/16" balsa. The plan shows the elevator hinge line very near the elevator leading edge. I choose to use a more scale approach. This should help relieve some servo load. Once done I fiberglassed the stab. I started using West System resin but it was alittle on the thick side even after warming it and tended to set up to fast as least for me. I then changed over to System 3 epoxy which was very thin and gave lots of time before it started to cure. No rushing needed with this.
I always start with the tail. This plan calls for building a top and bottom half. Seemed to go ok but when I was done the tail had warped and was unusable. Probabily something I had done or humidity, etc. I built a new stab by sandwiching in 1/32 plywood with two pieces of balsa at the rear. This made the rear stab very strong and it just won't bend or warp. I built the stab as one peice covered with 1/16" balsa. The plan shows the elevator hinge line very near the elevator leading edge. I choose to use a more scale approach. This should help relieve some servo load. Once done I fiberglassed the stab. I started using West System resin but it was alittle on the thick side even after warming it and tended to set up to fast as least for me. I then changed over to System 3 epoxy which was very thin and gave lots of time before it started to cure. No rushing needed with this.
11-15-2006, 12:17 PM
#6
RE: Don Smith A-26
I cut out all the formers for the fuselage. I moved the plywood support in the nose area more to the side to allow a full cockpit. Before planking I tried sanding high spots down and fill in the low spots on the formers. Since these plans are hand drawn and enlarged, any errors are magnified. I used 1/8" balsa for the planking as stated on the plan but I think I should have used 3/16" due to increased spacing between the formers and to allow more sanding and less filling for a fair surface. I'm also building the 'C" model so the nose was alter accordingly.
11-15-2006, 01:38 PM
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RE: Don Smith A-26
Hi Dave,
the gunners part is where I housed all the air valves, I have an ultra precision controlling the gear and gear doors, and one valve for the brakes, and another to open the bomb bay doors. I also put the batteries and power box under the hatch. If I end up tail heavy, which I doubt, as the G 45's are quite heavy, Ill place the batteries further forward and extend the wiring. I placed the air reservoirs above the wing. As for the flaps, they are as per plans, however, I used the robart fowler flap hinges, which are horrendously expensive, and the outer one jutted a little above the wing, which is why we made that blister. I still need to have a good look at the robart hinges as there is excessive play in the flaps.
If you will be using Century Jet gear, be careful about the gear mounting beams, as mine ended up wider after following the plan spacing. Also, the nose gear which is supposed to take a 4 1/2 inch wheel, will only tahe a 4" one. The gear is beautifully made however I did not expect century to use pop rivets to hold the scissors, etc, in an expensive gear as this.
Keep on building and post pics, at this rate you will end up flying it before I do !!!!!
If I can help in any way, let me know.
Joseph
the gunners part is where I housed all the air valves, I have an ultra precision controlling the gear and gear doors, and one valve for the brakes, and another to open the bomb bay doors. I also put the batteries and power box under the hatch. If I end up tail heavy, which I doubt, as the G 45's are quite heavy, Ill place the batteries further forward and extend the wiring. I placed the air reservoirs above the wing. As for the flaps, they are as per plans, however, I used the robart fowler flap hinges, which are horrendously expensive, and the outer one jutted a little above the wing, which is why we made that blister. I still need to have a good look at the robart hinges as there is excessive play in the flaps.
If you will be using Century Jet gear, be careful about the gear mounting beams, as mine ended up wider after following the plan spacing. Also, the nose gear which is supposed to take a 4 1/2 inch wheel, will only tahe a 4" one. The gear is beautifully made however I did not expect century to use pop rivets to hold the scissors, etc, in an expensive gear as this.
Keep on building and post pics, at this rate you will end up flying it before I do !!!!!
If I can help in any way, let me know.
Joseph
11-15-2006, 03:14 PM
#8
RE: Don Smith A-26
I'm using retracts from Sierra. I've set the rail spacing per Darrell. The wheel size measured on the plans are about 5.25" And they will fit fine on Sierras retracts. I just wish they would arrive>[sm=sad_smile.gif]
My cowls haven't arrived yet. Does your engine stick out the bottom?? Looks like only part of the spark plug on mine will extend beyond the cowl.
Are you building the 120" version? The plans call out for a 4.5" front tire but if you measure it it's about 5.25.
Dave
Building slowly but steady
My cowls haven't arrived yet. Does your engine stick out the bottom?? Looks like only part of the spark plug on mine will extend beyond the cowl.
Are you building the 120" version? The plans call out for a 4.5" front tire but if you measure it it's about 5.25.
Dave
Building slowly but steady
11-16-2006, 11:40 AM
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RE: Don Smith A-26
On mine, the gunner's compartment is where the air filler and switches reside along with the rudder servo (pull-pull). Under that floor are the two elevator servos. I can access these through the bomb bay door (non-functional) For flaps I am going to try to make something similar to the photos below. I found these on the internet but do not know who drew them. Tried to look for the site yesterday but can not find it.
Got any ideas on what to use to replace the pop rivets on the retracts? I do not like them either.
Great looking plane Joseph. You guys are getting me exited to get back on this again!
Got any ideas on what to use to replace the pop rivets on the retracts? I do not like them either.
Great looking plane Joseph. You guys are getting me exited to get back on this again!
11-16-2006, 12:30 PM
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RE: Don Smith A-26
Hi,
Ichy, I am leaving the rivets as they are for the moment. The rudder and elevator servos (2) are housed about 1ft forward from the rear tip of the fuse, and all likages are very short. I had to make three hatches to access the servos, and also to acces the links from the pushrods to the torque rods.
Dave, it is the 120" version, and you are right, the nose wheel should be 5.25", but the century nose gear can only take a 4" wheel in the offset strut. I was really disappointed to find this fault, but I guess I have to live with it. The plug cables will stick out of the cowl. The 3W 24's would have been completely hidden, but I do not think that I would have been happy with the amount of power I would have had available.
Keep them coming....
Joseph
Ichy, I am leaving the rivets as they are for the moment. The rudder and elevator servos (2) are housed about 1ft forward from the rear tip of the fuse, and all likages are very short. I had to make three hatches to access the servos, and also to acces the links from the pushrods to the torque rods.
Dave, it is the 120" version, and you are right, the nose wheel should be 5.25", but the century nose gear can only take a 4" wheel in the offset strut. I was really disappointed to find this fault, but I guess I have to live with it. The plug cables will stick out of the cowl. The 3W 24's would have been completely hidden, but I do not think that I would have been happy with the amount of power I would have had available.
Keep them coming....
Joseph
11-17-2006, 12:00 PM
#11
RE: Don Smith A-26
I should be starting on the wing by mid December or January at the latest. More pics to follow this week-end.
KKN, Are you going to fly it in primer? I plan to before committing all those hours to detailing, cockpit, etc.
Ichy, hope you do start working on it more if possible. I do know how time can be a problem. Interesting flap actuation system. However it looks to me that where the two channels come together would destroy any strenght as it appears to me that the channels are in the middle and the rods that attach to the actual flap at both ends. I was thinking of just using a simply sliding hinge assembly for the slotted flaps.
How was the wing construction? Judging by some of the parts fit so far I'm thinking of using my CAD program to redraw the wing ribs. That way I'll know they will fit.
Dave
Building slowly but steady
KKN, Are you going to fly it in primer? I plan to before committing all those hours to detailing, cockpit, etc.
Ichy, hope you do start working on it more if possible. I do know how time can be a problem. Interesting flap actuation system. However it looks to me that where the two channels come together would destroy any strenght as it appears to me that the channels are in the middle and the rods that attach to the actual flap at both ends. I was thinking of just using a simply sliding hinge assembly for the slotted flaps.
How was the wing construction? Judging by some of the parts fit so far I'm thinking of using my CAD program to redraw the wing ribs. That way I'll know they will fit.
Dave
Building slowly but steady
11-17-2006, 01:58 PM
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RE: Don Smith A-26
Hi Dave,
I think that it is a good idea to fly it in primer, but I am some way off yet, the plane still need a lot of filling and sanding. Also I need to have a good look at the flap hinges, as there is a lot of play on them, and I will have to use a JR matchbox to synchronise them. Also, the plane has grown too big for my workshop, so I am converting another garage I have to work on it there. The problem is time.....I can never seem to find time for working on models, and when I do find some time, I would be dead tired from work, or would need some time with the family. I know that this depends on a lot of factors, but does anyone have any idea about what sort of takeoff roll would this beast need in let's say calm conditions? i am estimating about 50lbs weight with 2 g 45's...............
The wings went together reasonably well.
Joseph
I think that it is a good idea to fly it in primer, but I am some way off yet, the plane still need a lot of filling and sanding. Also I need to have a good look at the flap hinges, as there is a lot of play on them, and I will have to use a JR matchbox to synchronise them. Also, the plane has grown too big for my workshop, so I am converting another garage I have to work on it there. The problem is time.....I can never seem to find time for working on models, and when I do find some time, I would be dead tired from work, or would need some time with the family. I know that this depends on a lot of factors, but does anyone have any idea about what sort of takeoff roll would this beast need in let's say calm conditions? i am estimating about 50lbs weight with 2 g 45's...............
The wings went together reasonably well.
Joseph
11-20-2006, 11:18 AM
#13
RE: Don Smith A-26
Constructing the fin....
Using CAD I redrew the rib and increased the number by one. This gave closer spacing. I also covered the fin with 3/32 balsa and went with a scale hinge for the rudder to reduce servo loads. I also "fatten up" toward the leading edge of the base of the fin so it doesn't have that starved horse look or the need for a lot of filler. Then the tail and fin were attached to the fuselage with a lot of measuring, shimming, adjusting, more measuring,etc. And now onto the rudder! Total weight so far is just under six pounds.
Dave
Building slow but steady
Using CAD I redrew the rib and increased the number by one. This gave closer spacing. I also covered the fin with 3/32 balsa and went with a scale hinge for the rudder to reduce servo loads. I also "fatten up" toward the leading edge of the base of the fin so it doesn't have that starved horse look or the need for a lot of filler. Then the tail and fin were attached to the fuselage with a lot of measuring, shimming, adjusting, more measuring,etc. And now onto the rudder! Total weight so far is just under six pounds.
Dave
Building slow but steady
11-26-2006, 07:35 PM
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RE: Don Smith A-26
Gear Doors.....
I'm close to finishing my Don Smith 120" A-26 and am down to the gear doors. Any good suggestions on hinges and mechanism for opening and closing the doors? I'm using Robart retracts.
Tom
11-27-2006, 10:05 AM
#15
RE: Don Smith A-26
ttomm:
Hinges... I plan on using something like this for my gear door hinges.
They are Made by Robart P# 350. Other manufactures also make similar products. As for making the gear doors open and close, there are a various methods for doing this. Some guys use springs to hold the doors open and have a budgy type cord attached to the gear strut to pull the doors closed when the gear retracts. Or a cam is operated that is attached to the gear doors and activated when the struts retracts or use small air cylinders that are connected to a special type of retract control unit that also can control the doors. Robart p# 174 is one example. Go to Robarts website and view the PDF under part # 174. This would be one example.
Post some pics.
Dave
Building slowly but steady
Hinges... I plan on using something like this for my gear door hinges.
They are Made by Robart P# 350. Other manufactures also make similar products. As for making the gear doors open and close, there are a various methods for doing this. Some guys use springs to hold the doors open and have a budgy type cord attached to the gear strut to pull the doors closed when the gear retracts. Or a cam is operated that is attached to the gear doors and activated when the struts retracts or use small air cylinders that are connected to a special type of retract control unit that also can control the doors. Robart p# 174 is one example. Go to Robarts website and view the PDF under part # 174. This would be one example.
Post some pics.
Dave
Building slowly but steady
11-27-2006, 12:31 PM
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RE: Don Smith A-26
Dave, go ahead and redraw the wing ribs. The way they are they are off as much as 3/4 inch in length. The following is what I wrote in RCSB about the problem and including a picture.
"I think I found the problem of the wrong size ribs. In the upper picture there is a small tick mark on the horizontal line, indicating the length of each rib. Most of the ribs were drawn short because he added the length of the wing sheeting before instead of after drawing the rib. Does that make since? Anyway, I got the length off the plan view and when I compare each rib to this drawing, they all line up with the tick marks."
Also I would check the plans for length of port and starboard wings. I think due to changes in reproduction of the plans, they are off by a little.
"I think I found the problem of the wrong size ribs. In the upper picture there is a small tick mark on the horizontal line, indicating the length of each rib. Most of the ribs were drawn short because he added the length of the wing sheeting before instead of after drawing the rib. Does that make since? Anyway, I got the length off the plan view and when I compare each rib to this drawing, they all line up with the tick marks."
Also I would check the plans for length of port and starboard wings. I think due to changes in reproduction of the plans, they are off by a little.
11-27-2006, 01:24 PM
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RE: Don Smith A-26
Hi ttom and wingspar,
I used the robart hinges on the nacelle doors, but they would not work on the nose gear doors. Normal hinges worked fine. I guess its the curve of the door. the nose doors are nearly flat.
Joseph
I used the robart hinges on the nacelle doors, but they would not work on the nose gear doors. Normal hinges worked fine. I guess its the curve of the door. the nose doors are nearly flat.
Joseph
11-27-2006, 04:38 PM
#18
RE: Don Smith A-26
Itchy, Thanks for the info. I thinbk I'll redraw...CAD... the ribs but using a 747A315 airfoil instead. It has a much "softer" stall then the NACA 2415. I wonder if anyone has ever tried this airfoil for model usage? Building is slowing due to very cold conditions in my garage [&o] I'll post some pictures of my progress.
Dave
Building slowly but steady
Dave
Building slowly but steady
11-29-2006, 01:41 AM
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RE: Don Smith A-26
Hi Guys:
I'm preparing to start building my A-26 some time in the next four months. Right now I'm gathering the items that I'll need, my kit was cut by precision cutters and I modified two 25cc weed-eater engines,purchased the cockpit interior and recently the century jet retracts. My question to you is, which Wheels and brake system are you using? Robart or Glennis?
I would be building the B model INVADER 105" span. Will any of you be installing retractable landing lights? if so could you please enlighten me on the process.
You are all doing a wonderful job on your models. Keep up the faith Dave and before you know it, your slow and steady pace will seem like only yesterday as you near the finish project.
Eric B.
I'm preparing to start building my A-26 some time in the next four months. Right now I'm gathering the items that I'll need, my kit was cut by precision cutters and I modified two 25cc weed-eater engines,purchased the cockpit interior and recently the century jet retracts. My question to you is, which Wheels and brake system are you using? Robart or Glennis?
I would be building the B model INVADER 105" span. Will any of you be installing retractable landing lights? if so could you please enlighten me on the process.
You are all doing a wonderful job on your models. Keep up the faith Dave and before you know it, your slow and steady pace will seem like only yesterday as you near the finish project.
Eric B.
11-29-2006, 10:25 AM
#20
RE: Don Smith A-26
For wheels I'm using Skylite with aluminum hubs from Sullivan. For brakes I'm still doing some research on that one. Possibly the one from Sierra retracts or a cam operated shoe type brake that I can made myself. I'm probably not going to make an operational landing light. I know that Ichy has done it on his plane. You can see his build at rcscalebuilder.com assuming you don't have login problems. [:@]
Please start a build here. I'd love to see your progress.
27 degrees in the garage today [
]
Dave
Building very slowly but making progress
Please start a build here. I'd love to see your progress.
27 degrees in the garage today [
]Dave
Building very slowly but making progress
11-29-2006, 11:22 AM
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RE: Don Smith A-26
I'm sorry that I cannot send you some of our weather to warm up your garage; we are experiencing a heavily overcast day of 83 degrees here in Panama.
I am leaning towards the Glennis wheels due to the weight of the model, you see it is normally hot here even though we do have a nine month rain season we fly off of warm or hot asphalt runways and this do take its' tole on light wheel when used on heavy models that are been flown often.
I will check out Ichys' model.
Eric B.
I am leaning towards the Glennis wheels due to the weight of the model, you see it is normally hot here even though we do have a nine month rain season we fly off of warm or hot asphalt runways and this do take its' tole on light wheel when used on heavy models that are been flown often.
I will check out Ichys' model.
Eric B.
11-30-2006, 10:12 AM
#22
RE: Don Smith A-26
A little bit of progress...
Instead of using a balsa block where the fuselage makes an upturn just aft of the bomb bay I uses pink foam instead. Shapes very easily. When I fiberglass the fuselage I'll probably use two layers in this area.
The rudder was built up from 1/8 balsa base with a 1/8 inch brass tube for the hinging. I laminated two pieces of 3/8 inch balsa on each side to form the rudder's leading edge. 1/8 inch balsa ribs were installed as indicated on the plan. Lightening holes still need to be drilled. Positioning the rudder actuator and getting it perfectly aligned with the hinge line is proving to be a challange. After this is done the rudder pull pull control and servo will be installed along with the elevator controls. Sierra retracts says the front gear should be shipped this week. Hopefully it won't be to much of a problem to install.
Dave
Building slowly but steady
Instead of using a balsa block where the fuselage makes an upturn just aft of the bomb bay I uses pink foam instead. Shapes very easily. When I fiberglass the fuselage I'll probably use two layers in this area.
The rudder was built up from 1/8 balsa base with a 1/8 inch brass tube for the hinging. I laminated two pieces of 3/8 inch balsa on each side to form the rudder's leading edge. 1/8 inch balsa ribs were installed as indicated on the plan. Lightening holes still need to be drilled. Positioning the rudder actuator and getting it perfectly aligned with the hinge line is proving to be a challange. After this is done the rudder pull pull control and servo will be installed along with the elevator controls. Sierra retracts says the front gear should be shipped this week. Hopefully it won't be to much of a problem to install.
Dave
Building slowly but steady
11-30-2006, 11:58 AM
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RE: Don Smith A-26
Pink foam. Darn, wish I had done that. Balsa blocks and filler took a lot of time. Are you going to install the lower gun turret?
Eric, glad you are also building an Invader! I am using Glennis wheels and tires. Very heavy duty, but adds a lot of weight. Should hold up nicely for you. I will have to modify the front retact to make the tire fit because I wanted a scale wheel. The CJ retract I found out is not scale.
I am almost done with putting together an 80" Yak 54 ARF, so am in the process of cleaning up the work table to restart where I left off on the A-26. But I am in the same boat as you Dave, it is so blasted cold here, I am turning blue! [&:]
Eric, glad you are also building an Invader! I am using Glennis wheels and tires. Very heavy duty, but adds a lot of weight. Should hold up nicely for you. I will have to modify the front retact to make the tire fit because I wanted a scale wheel. The CJ retract I found out is not scale.
I am almost done with putting together an 80" Yak 54 ARF, so am in the process of cleaning up the work table to restart where I left off on the A-26.
But I am in the same boat as you Dave, it is so blasted cold here, I am turning blue! [&:]
11-30-2006, 11:01 PM
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RE: Don Smith A-26
Glad to see you moving forward Dave. every little bit counts. Good idea the pink foam; I wondered the same as Ichy,are you going to install the lower turret?
Ichy: I checked out your forum at scalebuilder, Beautiful idea the use of the pinpong ball on the landing light. Are you going to coat it with resin or will it stand the heat of the bulb. Did you use a mini or a micro servo to actuate the retract sequence?
Again my hat's off to all of you, wonderful job so far.
Eric B.
Ichy: I checked out your forum at scalebuilder, Beautiful idea the use of the pinpong ball on the landing light. Are you going to coat it with resin or will it stand the heat of the bulb. Did you use a mini or a micro servo to actuate the retract sequence?
Again my hat's off to all of you, wonderful job so far.
Eric B.
11-30-2006, 11:38 PM
#25
RE: Don Smith A-26
I'm planning on modeling "Dream girl" which had the lower turret so I will be putting it in.
Now looks like I'm going to be remodeling the kitchen which is going to slow me down. I'm shooting for a test flight in primer sometime in September.
Dave
Building slowly but steady
Now looks like I'm going to be remodeling the kitchen which is going to slow me down. I'm shooting for a test flight in primer sometime in September.
Dave
Building slowly but steady