ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

A local guy had an engine out on his maiden and using the 55AX (not the engines fault but a tuning issue). He was high enough to catch the short spin, recover, and actually fly the circuit while getting set up for a landing. The one engine had plenty of power for flight, approach, and a safe landing. I wouldn't have believed it myself at this weight. The OS 55AX is amazing. If I had one of these, I wouldn't use anything else. A larger engine just isn't needed. Oh, did I mention his 310 is a screamer on a fast fly by as well? He has all the options on board also. What a plane engine combo!

finchase4

Walt

I've contacted Bob, and he's going to get me the extensions, wheels and needle valve tool..

Going to start the build this evening.

Thanks again..

Rich

finchase4

Mike:

A quick question for you..

Did you have to redrill a new hole in the L.H. firewall for the throttle rod?

My nacelles are a true mirror image of each other and as the engines get mounted facing the same direction that places the throttle rod hole on the wrong side of the firewall.

Thanks..

Rich

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

I honestly don't recall how the throttle pushrods were arranged. I don't even recall weather I drilled the holes or if they were pre-drilled.

But according to [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/reviews/870/cesE03.jpg]THIS PICTURE[/link] the hole looks like it's in the center of the firewall.

finchase4

Mike:

Thanks for your info.. I see in the parts inventory page of the manual, as well as the pic you enclosed, that those throttle rod holes are on the centerline under the tank neck hole. I guess they've changed their design since then. Mine are offset from the centerline of the nacelle as well as the centerline of the engine. I think its time for a call to Tech Support tomorrow.. Perhaps I'm missing some obvious information..

Rich

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

If It were me, I'd just drill them where I needed them

finchase4

Mike..

I've installed the mounts and engines, test fitted the nacelles over the top of each and all seems fine except the throttle rod hole. So I believe that I'll take your advice and just drill another hole for it.. Seems like the right thing to do..

Thanks again for the help..

Rich

Pilot P51

My Feedback: (6)

Rich
They must have changed this on the later models. I don't remember having to drill an extra hole for the linkage on mine. As Mike said, if you need to drill another hole then do so. You can always patch it with wood filler. Just make sure it is lined up correctly.

Walt

finchase4

Walt:

Yes, they have changed the nacelles.. I've found 3 or 4 changes between the pics in the manual and the nacelles I have on my plane.. I've drilled the hole and it all fits now..

Bob is supposed to get back to me tomorrow with the info on the .55 AX needle valve tool then I'll get all those goodies ordered..

So far, the build is going remarkably well, *knock on wood, with very few problems, thanks in large part to the help received here.

Thanks again for yours

Rich

finchase4

Does anyone know how to remove canopy glue from a windscreen? The factory was unkind enough to leave a rather obvious glob in the top center of mine.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

I use a utility knife blade, flex the canopy slightly, carefully work under the edge of the glue spot and pry it off. It is very hard to scrape them off without leaving marks. Running hot water on it sometimes helps as well. I don't use any other kind of heat though.

thetireman1

My Feedback: (5)

HELP Guys!!! I am very interested in one of the TF 310's. The situation with the wing structure is concerning to me. One of my fellow R/Cer's has one built that he wants to do some trading with. It has experienced a hard landing with a cracked place in the wheel opening that he fixed. What should I do here? I want one bad but do not want to "Restore" it when I get it...



Thanks!

uri

I also suffer from some cracks in the main spar of the wing near the main gear doors.
Can anyone post some pictures + description on how to fix the wing cracking problem?
Would covering the wing root till engine nozzle with 50-70 gram fiberglass do the trick? has anyone tried it and found it to be sufficient?
Thanks!

Bill D

My Feedback: (2)

Chrish: Sir you build a great model. I have a few question with respect to my 310 build. can you tell me what size tires ,what make are the brakes. Thanks for the help. Bill Downs.

wtfisittou

Well i finally bit the bullet and have purchased my TF cessna 310. I have read this thread from front to back and i am excited to be building a model like this. It is here and it looks and feels top class. There is a lot of history here and thank all before me for their invaluable input. I am sure this will make the build far easier.

mschneider2005

My Feedback: (34)

Good luck with you new project! These are enjoyable to build. I'm on #3 now and they keep getting better. Here are some of the "mods" I did on #3.

I uncovered the wings and horz stab parts. I used a large blade screwdriver to recess the top and bottom of the trailing edge by scraping it allong a straight edge. Then I cut and installed 1/32 plywood and rounded the trailing edge of the Stab and leading edge of the elevator. Same deal on the ailerons. I used Robart hing points and made scale rotating hinges. Then recovered the parts. I used CA hinges on the rudder for obvious reasons.

I cut the luggage hatch open on the right side of the nose and installed a panel with 2 Hd switches, air filler valve and air pressure guage. I hinged the door with Sonictronic hinges.

I cut a small hatch on the top side of the wing alligned with the wire exit hole and aft of the spar. I epoxied in a hardwood block and used that to mount the air cyl for the inner gear doors.

I removed about 1/2 of the lead from the nose.

I cut and installed a 3/16" thick aircraft ply bulkhead directly over the nose gear mounting blocks. ( I am considering making them available to other builders since I have the template done) This mod will reduce stress fractures from bumpy fields or bumpy landings.

I made and installed a battery tray that mounts on the inside of the nose wheel well to move the batteries forward to the bulkhead.

I made and installed a tray for the rudder and elevator servos in the rear hatch location. Now instead of 30" pushrods they are 3" long.

I added a twinsync and I run OS .50s

I am thinking of adding a TamJet gear-down failsafe just incase I lose too much air pressure in flight.

http://www.tamjets.com/original/prod...roducts_id=226

I have installed two volume tanks because of the sequencing gear doors.

I'll post some pictures of my mods.

Have fun!

Mike

handyman_alw_

My Feedback: (14)

I'am drilling small holes in the leading edge in between the ribs and filling the wing with the expandable foam. then doing the same thing behind the spars to fill in the bays between the ribs. I have a friend that has been doing this to all his planes during the build and it does a couple of things, first it will take all the flex out of the wing and will make it about 3 or 4 times as strong ,in talking to my friend alot of gaint scale builders use this to strengthen there wings. the nice things about the holes you drill is it gives the foam a place to go when it expands. take a small peice of covering to cover the holes and you are all done. i have seen my friends war birds put through there paces that would tear up a normal wing but his just keep flying.

Allen

DAN AVILLA

My Feedback: (12)

[quote]ORIGINAL: Pilot P51

Hey Rich,
You will not be disappointed in the power of the 55’s. I test flew mine on the 13 x 7 two blades and it was like a rocket, I then when over to the 3 blade. It is still very fast for a twin. I fly mine around half throttle most of the time. I have about 50 flights on mine and I love it. I own a full scale 340 and the 310 on final with full flaps looks like a real plane landing.
Again you will enjoy this plane.

Walt


Walt I have been flying mine with 55's also. I'm useing APC 11/6's . Mine is a dog on take off. Do you think the 13x 7's should give me better take off speed ? Are you useing APC ? I allso did wheel brakes like Meesh. That was a mistake. The exaust oils down the brakes even with the stacks. Thanks Dan Avilla

Pilot P51

My Feedback: (6)

Hey Dan
The 13 x 7 two blade will make this plane into a rocket. This is what I used to test fly mine with. I then changed over to the Graupner 3 blade 12 x 8 and it is still like a rocket. I fly most of the time at half throttle. I have flown mine off of grass and asphalt strips with no problems. I did not add the brakes to mine I really did not need them.
I am still running 2.5” spinners (Tru-Turn).
Yes I agree even with the extensions on, the under belly still gets oil on it.
In fact I flew mine this morning. Have you had any issues with the wing like some of the other guys have been having? So far I have not had any problems and I think I have about 80 flights on mine. I will keep my fingers crossed on this one.
Have any other problems let me know.

Walt

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

mine weighs 22,6 lbs and is a leccy eflite power 60s each side 6s 1p 5000mah batts in the nacelles. flys around 9 minutes really smooth i do a lot of dead stick landings and use the stopped props as air brakes, never had a problem. leccy is the hassle free way to go! freaks people out when i cut the power glide a bit then power up then they ask if i have on board start. I say yes and when i land I pop off nacelle covers and show them shes electric they cant believe it

thetireman1

My Feedback: (5)

I would like to replace the cheap foam wheels in the kit...What have you guys been replacing them with? I don't think I want to mess with a brake set up...just some nice wheel/tires.

dbrown711

I am planning to 'open' the door on the copilot side. Has anyone attempted this yet? I wasn't sure if it would weaken the structure or not. I don't think that will be an issue because it appears that the load is all transfered at the saddle. Anyone with an oppinion please share it.... Thanks

mschneider2005

My Feedback: (34)

Are you talking about the cabin door or the hatch(s)? I would be cautious about opening a cabin door. That could really weaken the structure. I'm thinking of the twisting loads from the tail during a turn.... I could be wrong.

--Mike

DAN AVILLA

My Feedback: (12)

Walt I picked up some APC 13/7's will give them a try. I cannot beleave that the 55's will pull 12/7 3 blades. Sounds good. My wing cracked on the 4th landing. I replaced the wings and glassed them with 1 1/2 OZ cloth. Then I painted them. So far no problem. The foam idea on this site sounds like a great way to go. Alot less work. Thanks Dan

dbrown711

I'm referring to the cabin door. It seems as though the structural support would still be sufficient but I wasn't sure. Has anyone hinged their pilot or copilot doors?