FliteMetal

If throttle control is "the" question than you need a seperate servo per engine. Use a ball link on each end of your "rod", be it a stable
nyrod or a solid wire with threaded ends. I prefer solid wire with silver soldered threaded ends and nylon ball end cups. This minimizes
play in linkage and permits you to route the solid wire through sleeved guides between the throttle and servo arm.

Because I was using JR originally, I coupled the second throttle servo to the left stick to permit me to "adjust" the second throttle setting
with a rotary dial to permit detuning the two engines to the one with the poorest performance. Poorest performance adjustability is one
of those necessary things to contend with inconsistancies between flight sessions. You must make adjustment easy across the throttle's
complete range...without having to constantly be bending over tweaking a needle to that too lean or too fat point.

Tach the engines and after adjustment of your high end flow, adjust getting them closer with the rotary adjustment. A choice of engine
is the best place to start adjusting your throttles...either twice as much fun or trouble. The results are predictable when you ask around.

FliteMetal

Use of two receivers works with proper power management and a radio which tolerates two receivers at X distance apart.
That is the way I have set up my Multiplex system with filtering to prevent cross talk between receivers. You should test
your twin receiver system for abnormal behavior and end point adjustments "before" placing any of it into your twin. Make
a test board with the receivers placed exactly the distance apart they will be in the model.

Hassansassd

Yes, i meant throttle pushrods. Thx for the advices!!

cmoore806

My Feedback: (82)

I cant find a place to subscribe to this thread without writing something =)

jrf

My Feedback: (551)

Top right, just above the ad.

Jim

cmoore806

My Feedback: (82)

Found it, thanks! Have any of you guys put together a bill of materials for the Giant Bronco by uravitch? I am waiting on my plans and would like to get the wood ordered ahead of time if possible.

Thanks,

Chris

naviguesser

Regards the cockpit: I have close up pic's of the "real thing". Took the pic's and reduced them down till they fit the cockpit instrument panel I made (both pilot and radio operator stations). Got lots of reviews.

Flare

Hi Guys,

I purchased the ScaleTech OV-10 Bronco ARF (81") a while back and never got around to building it until now.
But when I opened the box, the assembly manual was missing! I am desperately seeking the manual!
Would anyone be able to help with a softcopy?

Thanks in Advance!

Dayan.

FliteMetal

Why not simply contact Rich and ask if he could email it to you?

dmyers0403

My Feedback: (48)

Give me your fax number or I can scan and email it to you on "Adobe" format. Give me the number of how it is to be sent. Manual is not much, gives you the basics and you can adlib the rest. It pretty easy build.

dmyers0403

My Feedback: (48)

OK - Thought I would activate this post with pic of flap & wing modifications. Plane is in final assembly stage for test flite this weekend - will finish detailing after first flight etc.

naviguesser

[size=1]Interesting pic's. What brand and how did you come to use those particular hinges on the flaps? Would like to see full pic of the a/c. I've started putting Urivitch 81" wing together in 3 sections. Would be interested on pic of how you acnchored the outer panels to center.[/size]

Johng

My Feedback: (4)

Nice, slotted flap hinges. Have you shaped the flap's top surface with an airfoil curve? What about extending the top skin of the wing back to form a slot lip?

Ooops, wait. I'm looking closely at your setup, and you actually want to reverse the hinges, so the hinge point (axle) is under the flap. That will give the flaps the correct motion to open the slot.

If you do those things, you'll have a decent slotted flap setup. With slotted flaps being blown in the propblast, you'll develop an unbelieveable amount of lift. The thing will float like a foamy. If it flies slow enough, you might even need ailerons & elevator on high rate to get enough control power.

You can do a search on slotted flaps in the Aero forum and get plenty of info and diagrams on good setup.

Anyway, good luck with that. Good Stuff.

gsmith6879

My Feedback: (37)

Dick,

Looks great!! Can't wait to see the Bronco fly. We may have as many as three Broncos flying at Hatbox Friday. Mike and I have ours ready for more test flights Friday and maybe some formation flying at the IMAA Flyin on Saturday.

Gaines

dmyers0403

My Feedback: (48)

Gains - What did you do about nose steering on yours - The Nose retract unit has the single arm with slide bar for steering control rod which flexes a lot and concernes me somewhat - I may switch too a pull-pull cable system in future if I can find a 3/16 double arm.
PS: Have I got horror stories about my paint job which will have to be redone later - seems like Ultracote paint never dries and curdles on top of it's self?? dont look close.

FliteMetal

I know its probably just me...but how do you achieve a slotted flap mechanics with the offset hinge? I
somehow can not envision it operating from a fixed single axis.

The answer must be on the top side of the wing out of view. Where is the slot?

Here is the way it is achieved with the CB 2214 hinge set:
note that its the illustration to the left of the one showing a regular flap with the 2214. As it swings
down the slot opens, though on the OV-10 there is a door facing forward attached to the leading
edge of the flap. As the flap rotates it pulls the door open.


Also....Gaines, I thought you were using pull pull on the nose strut...

Johng

My Feedback: (4)

From Mike James' website, Nextcraft.com - here is a gif that shows a single hinge point slotted flap. A minor geometry change and you don't need to worry about the "double" slot 'flaplet'.

FliteMetal

That's close to the way the OV-10 flap works. The airfoil sits back against the flap surface closer
and the door is attached to the lower leading edge of the flap itself.

Probably easier to visualize by looking at the actual 2214 numbered flap illustration. The door
and slot area would be taken from the wing trailing edge area. Below is an OV-10 slotted flap.

dmyers0403

My Feedback: (48)

Thanks for input - I will take pic in down position. I am not a flap expert so I assumed that the flap was to drop down and not pivot upward but that can be corrected if installed wrong. Open to input. Yes the flap top has been reshaped with arch (whill post pic) and flaps recovered. I had installed a 1/16ply edge to trailing edge of wing at flap area. I also installed 1/8 ply into flaps and wing to anchor hing attachement screws. I previously installed robart scale control horns at flaps but they allowed linkage to pivot downward and flaps were sloppy so I used taller heavy duty Dubro units shown and it held the flaps firmly in place.
I will also post my wing joiner system. In hind sight I would use the 7/8" wing tube since the wing is cut per original planes and the tube holes exist for tube. My attempt to save a few penneys cost a few dollars. My design is not all that great - added wieght but I got to a point of no return. Tube/removeable ends would be a very easy mod to stock wing to do, then recover with ultracote etc.

fancman

My Feedback: (16)

I use the single arm and it works just fine.

dmyers0403

My Feedback: (48)

Per my other reply - I would use a wing tube but will post pics of mine which may be an embarresment. Gains will make fun of me at the fly-in this weekend but now the whole forum will know - but that is what makes this hobby fun. I hang out with a rough group - my mistakes dont go by without due heckling and verbal punishment but then again what are friends for !!!!

gsmith6879

My Feedback: (37)

Dick,

I used the single arm. The mechanics of the hook up is tricky but doable. I did make an aluminum arm (I thought I made one for you?) that didn't flex. You will have to use at least a 40oz servo as this installation takes a beating on landing.

Gaines

Johng

My Feedback: (4)

Flite:

I have not seen a lower surface door on slotted flaps before. I wonder what that's about. Even on airliners where cruise drag is king, they just have the bottom skins faired to the flaps in general, I think.

Dmyers, the flap pivot should be underneath where the flap surface meets the slot-lip (extended upper skin) or just slightly forward. That makes the circular geometry so the flap slides backward away from the skin, then down. What you get (look at the picture) is a converging passage between the wing and the flap. large on bottom, small on top. Air thru a converging passage accelerates. This jet of high speed air over the top of the flap is what makes the airflow stay attached and the high lift. Seems weird to let 'high-pressure' air thru the wing and get more lift, but the net result is more lift on the top skin. As long as you place the pivot so you get a converging passage at the flap settings you want to use, it should work very well.

I've used slots on a few planes, and they do work well. I'd love to see how yours does with the flaps walled off between fuse and nacelles and immersed in the prop blast. I've seen wind tunnel CL values reported around 5 for those sections - while a high CL for a plain airfoil is around 1.5

At some point of deflection, 40, 50, 60 deg or more, there is no longer a converging passage and the lift advantage is completely lost. This can work to advantage as well, if you want to make super steep high drag approaches.

FliteMetal

Actually the flap on the OV-10 simply rotates down and not back. The by-pass effect and additional lift are achieved
through the door opening and the additional airfoil on top of the flap leading edge. The only additional movement is
the door being "pushed" open by the pivot link between the leading edge of the flap and the trailing edge of the wing
(at the by-pass cut out) The original design for this on the YOV-10 was different, it actually had an air shovel and it
was extremly narrow compared to the production OV-10s. The door to flap link collapses flush with the door when it
is closed and the flap is completely upright.

dmyers0403

My Feedback: (48)

You may have made the steering arm but as Jim Miller will tell you some things get lost in my shop simpley because I forget about them or where I put them. I am using the plastic arm that came with the gear.
Trust me, compared to how well organized your shop is, my looks like Katrina hit, then backed up to hit what it missed the first time. I think I have a tiller arm from the H9 Cessna nose gear that may work but I wont have time to change it until after the Muskogee Fly-In.