gsmith6879

My Feedback: (37)

Man you guys are tough!

The fuselage will be next. I need to get it framed up so that I can start on the plugs for the new nose cone and the canopy. The only reason I started on the tail feathers was that I didn't have enough wood to start and finish anything else. My wood order shipping yesterday. So I will be picking up the pace early next week.

Gaines

gsmith6879

My Feedback: (37)

Woops!

gsmith6879

My Feedback: (37)

I got my wood order for the Bronco Friday and was able to get the fuselage framed up. Had some issues with the scale nose shape but worked it out.

rinnander

Gaines,

What degree or angle did you use for your nose wheel? I am putting mine in and I don't want to waste a bunch of wood to see what works. I have the ARF not the kit if it makes a difference. Are you putting the the nose wheel steering servo in the nose cone? Thanks for your help.

Paul

gsmith6879

My Feedback: (37)

Paul,

My gear is a 110 degree Robart with custom made scale struts. The gear blocks are installed at 12 degrees off of the center line of the fuselage. You can use the bottom as a reference. This angle lets the gear cant about 3 degrees forward which is about scale. The steering is accomplished with pull-pull cables to a tiller bar and servo mounted in the nose but behind the first former. I hope the drawing helps.


Gaines

jbarnes

My Sierra gear I mounted at 15 degrees and slid it back just aft of the former so the wheel does not interfere with the nose cone. I don't think with the Sierra gear I can get the nose wheel tucked into the nose cone as it seems to want to protrude above the nose cone.

CanDo

Rinnander, if you have the ARF, check the nose gear mount to make sure it is braced properly. I installed the Sierra Precision nose gear, then tested the strut a few times by pushing down on the fuse nose. The nose gear mounting beams broke loose from the bulkhead. After I secured the beams better and reinforced the bulkhead, no more problems. Note, my nose gear rotates aft, not forward.

jbarnes

Cando, you got the scale Sierra gear and it rotates aft?

CanDo

Yes, I ordered mine a few years ago; you could get either the "scale" nose gear that rotates forward, or the "sport scale" gear that rotates aft. I assume you can still order either type. (Sorry, I'm slow to respond because I'm suppose to be working right now!)

gsmith6879

My Feedback: (37)

Paul,

Here is a short video of the nose gear and steering operation on my Bronco.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2sbdZ...1&feature=plcp


Gaines

gsmith6879

My Feedback: (37)

Guys,

I posted this YouTube link on RCSB but in case you missed it, check out the 38% 105 pound Bronco.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KgKtDsicDqU

Gaines

BadLemon

My Feedback: (37)

Gaines

Nice video! Great pilot but to me the wing looks longer then it should or is it just me. Here is a video of Rich Uravitch's 109" Electric OV-10 Bronco Monster! He scaled it up just like you are doing! I would love to have one one day. Enjoy

http://www.rcuvideos.com/video/MonsterOV-10-wmv

jbarnes

Gains, curious how you fasten your three piece wing. I'm getting ready to build the wing and plan on a three piece but not exactly sure how I'm going to secure the outside wings to the pods. Jerry.

gsmith6879

My Feedback: (37)

Jerry,

I use a 36" 7/8" aluminum tube and phenolic sleeve from TNT cut into 2 18" pieces. Rich's plans show the tube location. I build the wing in one piece halves leaving a small space between the 2 ribs that separate the wing outside of the nacelle. I don't cut them apart until all sheeting is done. Before sheeting, I install a block in the center section over the phenolic to accept a 4-40 socket head screw. Install the block and screw as far inboard as possible. After I have completed the wing and it has been covered or painted, I then epoxy the 7/8" tube in the wing tip. After the epoxy has set then I insert the tube into the center section and carefully drill through the block and into the aluminum tube with a #43 drill bit and then tap the aluminum 4-40. I like to add a piece of hard wood inside the aluminum tube to give the 4-40 screw something to bite into. I hope this make sense.

jbarnes

Ok, I'm following you. I guess the down side to that kind of solution is the tube is glued in the outer wing making the wing harder to store in a limited space. But, I do understand what you are saying and it makes perfect sense. I have the tubes from TNT and hope to get started on the wing next week. Jerry.

gsmith6879

My Feedback: (37)

Jerry,

I should have explained that you can use the same method of attachment on the tube that goes in the wing tip. Blocks and screws at both ends of the tube. I built a Ziroli Skyraider a couple of years ago and Nick glues his tubes in the tips. I did that and it has worked very well. The other downside is if you ding the wing and bend the tube you are going to have a lot more work repairing the damage.

One other thing. When you build the wing, make sure you take the aluminum tube out of the phenolic sleeve before gluing the sleeve into the wing. My buddy left the tube in and then we had to cut through the tubes to get the wing sections apart. Replacement aluminum tubes were ordered:-)

jbarnes

Funny how the simply things go right past you when you build and then come back to cause you hours of extra work later. I never seem to learn those lessons. After I get this wing built I'll have to get some advice on setting the incident of the horizontal stab. I did mine different than the plans. I have two 6/32 bolts going through the vertical stab into the horizontal stab. I drilled the front holes but left the rears one un-drilled so I could set the incidence to the correct value. Jerry.

gsmith6879

My Feedback: (37)

Jerry,

Looks like you did your stab attachment almost exactly like I did my first 2 Broncos and very close to what I have on the new one. The horizontal stab incidences are bit tricky. Rich just shows a line on the vertical stab. If you don't get the stab in the right place then the incidences will be off. Your idea of leaving the back holes un-drilled will work. After you bolt everything together then you can just simply put a incidence meter on the stab and set the angle. Since Rich doesn't show this on the plans I took measurements from the plan and plotted it in CAD and they come out with the stab at 0 degrees, the wing is at 1.5 degrees positive and the motor is at 1 degree down thrust.

jbarnes

I don't have a incident meter but was wondering about using my digital level. If the main fuse is sitting on the table and the table is level then the horizontal stab should be set to level also? Wasn't sure if the bottom of the fuse sitting on the table was a good reference to then set the stab. Like you said the plans aren't real clear in that area.

gsmith6879

My Feedback: (37)

Jerry,

Actually the only incidence that Rich provides on the drawings is the wing to fuselage. It is shown on the side view of the drawing as 1 degree. With the fuselage setting flat on the bench the stab should be -.5 degree. To make it easier to understand, I have attached a drawing with all of the incidences plotted. The digital level should work great for the flat stab.

Gaines

rinnander

Gaines,

Thanks for all of the great info, the plans will help I am sure. I do have a set of Rich's 80" ov10 plans, I have not opened them yet is that where your plans came from?

Thanks again

Paul

rinnander

CanDo,

Thanks for the heads up!!! I have already taken out all of the nose wheel stuff and am going to rebuild it so the nose wheel will retracts forward. This is my first time doing all of this building, normally bolt on the wings and go. After all of this work I don't know if I want to fly it, she is starting to look real nice.

Thanks for all of your help,

Paul

gsmith6879

My Feedback: (37)

Paul,

I took Rich's design and re-drew it in Cad to allow me to remove most of the light ply and to get the tail surfaces and the fuselage and canopy more scale but if you build it exactly to the plans it will fly great.

jbarnes

Maybe I'm missing the tree in the forest but I'm not seeing anywhere on this wing plan where it states the spar as being balsa or spruce. I'm guessing balsa is fine but thought I'd ask you guys first. Jerry.

gsmith6879

My Feedback: (37)

Jerry,

I couldn't find it on the plans either but I seem to remember that it was specified in the magazine instructions. Since Rich doesn't use shear webs I used 3/8" basswood spars. On my new Bronco I plan to use 1/4" basswood and 1/16" balsa shear webs.