Hostetler 310 Build
01-06-2008, 07:04 PM
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RE: Hostetler 310 Build
Hey DelRay,
Venture a guess as to how much paint to get for this thing? Remember how much you used on yours?
Im trying to figure out a final weight.
Right now it looks like I'm going to end up around 45 lbs+.
Im guessing 1/2 gallon of paint is around 5 lbs? does that sound like enough paint for a bird this size?
Ted
Venture a guess as to how much paint to get for this thing? Remember how much you used on yours?
Im trying to figure out a final weight.
Right now it looks like I'm going to end up around 45 lbs+.
Im guessing 1/2 gallon of paint is around 5 lbs? does that sound like enough paint for a bird this size?
Ted
01-07-2008, 03:07 AM
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RE: Hostetler 310 Build
Hi Ted,
been following your project, so ........ right now waiting for the plans from Wendell
Meanwile, trying to get friendly with a few lumberyard owners ..... told the wife to move out ... (I´ll need all the space I can get)
Did you start out with the middle-section wings, or with the fuse first ??
Could use a few tips regarding the mentioned "problems" with the drawings though ....
I´m planning on using two 38cc engines as well, but getting pneum. landing gears this size in Europe .... probably I´ll have to have´m custom made.
Fantastic job you guys have been doing, I hope I can do just half as good ....
Regards,
Charles
been following your project, so ........ right now waiting for the plans from Wendell
Meanwile, trying to get friendly with a few lumberyard owners ..... told the wife to move out ... (I´ll need all the space I can get)
Did you start out with the middle-section wings, or with the fuse first ??
Could use a few tips regarding the mentioned "problems" with the drawings though ....
I´m planning on using two 38cc engines as well, but getting pneum. landing gears this size in Europe .... probably I´ll have to have´m custom made.
Fantastic job you guys have been doing, I hope I can do just half as good ....
Regards,
Charles
01-07-2008, 08:48 AM
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RE: Hostetler 310 Build
Hi Charles,
Start with the elevator and rudder, then the fuse. Make sure you have your gear before starting the wing.
You will have to engineer your own mounting rails for the gear, when you get the plans, you'll see what I mean.
On the full scale, the wheels protrude from under the wing, but the full scale has 'blistered' gear doors, to hide the wheels, so you cant really tell. You will have a tough time finding thin wheels. Do yourself a favor and order the cowls, nacelles, and tip tanks from stans fibertech here in the States, it will save you much work. Order now, because it will take some time, and you will want to have the nacelles on hand before you start the wing center section.
We thickened the wing in this center section to accomidate the thicker wheels.
The cabin, as drawn, is not scale, its too 'boxy'. We re-designed this, creating the proper contour. The fuse sides on the full scale are not flat, especially at the windscreen uprights and door jams. The downside is that we will have to vac-form the glass ourselves. The upside is you'll have a sleek looking fuse with the proper shape.
Ted
Start with the elevator and rudder, then the fuse. Make sure you have your gear before starting the wing.
You will have to engineer your own mounting rails for the gear, when you get the plans, you'll see what I mean.
On the full scale, the wheels protrude from under the wing, but the full scale has 'blistered' gear doors, to hide the wheels, so you cant really tell. You will have a tough time finding thin wheels. Do yourself a favor and order the cowls, nacelles, and tip tanks from stans fibertech here in the States, it will save you much work. Order now, because it will take some time, and you will want to have the nacelles on hand before you start the wing center section.
We thickened the wing in this center section to accomidate the thicker wheels.
The cabin, as drawn, is not scale, its too 'boxy'. We re-designed this, creating the proper contour. The fuse sides on the full scale are not flat, especially at the windscreen uprights and door jams. The downside is that we will have to vac-form the glass ourselves. The upside is you'll have a sleek looking fuse with the proper shape.
Ted
01-08-2008, 08:35 AM
#55
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RE: Hostetler 310 Build
Ted, it's been many, many moons ago that I painted my 310, so I don't remember how much I did use. I will say that with this last project, the 337 with the KlassKote paint system, the fella that took my order was very helpful as far as what amounts would be needed for an area size. It can and does add weight, I found that out and was surprised when I had to add a little ballast in the nose to compensate for the paint to the tail booms and stab/elev. That was a little off topic, but just letting you know, and I'm sure you are aware already of this that it does add weight. I would guess the type of paint you end up using would also be a weight factor and how many coats that's needed for good coverage. I don't think I really helped you on your question though. I would say the place you get your paint from shold have information as far as what is needed for coverage on a given area. Jim
01-08-2008, 09:50 AM
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RE: Hostetler 310 Build
Hi Ted,
thank you for the quick reply and useful suggestions.
I guess I´ll just have to wait ´til I get my hands on the plans (they should arrive any day now), to really understand the situation.
Already checked the cowls and tip-tanks offered by Fiber-Tech, but ....... [
]
Even with the US$ falling through the bottom as it is now, and even with their prices being very attractive, the clue is by the shipping costs to Europe [>:]
It´s not as much the weight, but the volume that makes the shipping costs to Europe extremely high, thus "making the soup costing more than the roast"
I´ll probably have to resort to making these parts myself, instead of purchasing them in the US.
If I may, I´d like to get back to you for some possible additional advice after I had a chance to study the plans though.
Regards,
Charles
thank you for the quick reply and useful suggestions.
I guess I´ll just have to wait ´til I get my hands on the plans (they should arrive any day now), to really understand the situation.
Already checked the cowls and tip-tanks offered by Fiber-Tech, but ....... [
]Even with the US$ falling through the bottom as it is now, and even with their prices being very attractive, the clue is by the shipping costs to Europe [>:]
It´s not as much the weight, but the volume that makes the shipping costs to Europe extremely high, thus "making the soup costing more than the roast"
I´ll probably have to resort to making these parts myself, instead of purchasing them in the US.
If I may, I´d like to get back to you for some possible additional advice after I had a chance to study the plans though.
Regards,
Charles
01-11-2008, 12:52 AM
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RE: Hostetler 310 Build
I cant believe i'm even thinking about this............
How cool would this be! Just imagine, sitting in the pit, flip the kill switch on the tx to 'on', engage brakes, start port engine, start starboard engine, nav lights blaring, mag-check, run-up, hole shot down the pike........oh my!
182 euro
less 19% vat (german sales tax)
shipping to states from germany........
lets guess how many US dollars.
How cool would this be! Just imagine, sitting in the pit, flip the kill switch on the tx to 'on', engage brakes, start port engine, start starboard engine, nav lights blaring, mag-check, run-up, hole shot down the pike........oh my!
182 euro
less 19% vat (german sales tax)
shipping to states from germany........
lets guess how many US dollars.
01-11-2008, 08:45 AM
#58
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RE: Hostetler 310 Build
F2G-1,it's an addiction, one really hard to put down. That "routine" sounds like an excellent plan to me, wish I could be there to watch. I don't have the nav lights but do have two strobes located in each tip tank nose. I'm planning on building a landing light that attaches to the nose gear. Setting the brakes and popping wheelies is also a blast. I'm getting older but I refuse to grow up.
The onboard starting would be awesome, ya better "go for it all". See how easy it is to spend someone elses money? Jim
That "routine" sounds like an excellent plan to me, wish I could be there to watch. I don't have the nav lights but do have two strobes located in each tip tank nose. I'm planning on building a landing light that attaches to the nose gear. Setting the brakes and popping wheelies is also a blast. I'm getting older but I refuse to grow up.The onboard starting would be awesome, ya better "go for it all". See how easy it is to spend someone elses money?
Jim
01-11-2008, 10:51 AM
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RE: Hostetler 310 Build
Addiction? - No,.....Its more like a sickness!!!
Tight fit in them nacelles......wheres my calipers...............................
Ted
Tight fit in them nacelles......wheres my calipers...............................
Ted
01-13-2008, 09:27 AM
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RE: Hostetler 310 Build
Hi Ted,
the magnet-ignition is a good choice to avoid the extra lead weight, but I´d rather use the electronic ignition in order to be able to syncronize both engines.
I´ll be using "TwinSync" for this, and I can use the ignitions sensors as signal source.
Just talked to my buddy about the landing gears and he promised to build them as soon as he gets the drawings, so it´s just up to me now ....
Charles
the magnet-ignition is a good choice to avoid the extra lead weight, but I´d rather use the electronic ignition in order to be able to syncronize both engines.
I´ll be using "TwinSync" for this, and I can use the ignitions sensors as signal source.
Just talked to my buddy about the landing gears and he promised to build them as soon as he gets the drawings, so it´s just up to me now ....
Charles
01-14-2008, 11:43 PM
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RE: Hostetler 310 Build
Charles,
Which ignitions are you going to use? you dont have to switch to EI to use the TS on the G38, there is a way to put the sensor at the rear. (and put the $200 - 300 in your pocket, unless you already have EI)
Check out robarts website - They have drawings for the retracts online, just find the 310's on their website, and you'll have a really good starting point. (hint hint)
I think i'm giving up the idea of the on board starting units. The FEMA units mount in the rear, where the twinsinc sensor needs to be (because the magneto is in front - sensors need to keep there distance), and at approx.150.00 EACH to replace the mags with elec. ignition, I'll be at $1000.00 to make it happen. For $1000.00, I'll put my welding glove on and flip the damn props myself! The wife is due this May, and baby boy needs alot of diapers! I gotta take care of my future co-pilot! I bought Baby Teddy his first airplane already, I'll post a picture of it later, you'll get a kick out of it, it'll blow you away, (hint, hint)
Dont worry about me....got enough surpluss stock in the basement to keep me flyin for a while! (TF Staggerwing w/ saito 220, Cermark F-16 w/ JETT 90L, Laser 200 w/ saito 125 - all need to be hatched from their boxes! I knew there was a reason I was putting them away in the basement - like a bear eating before hibernation to build up his fat stores!)
Maybe i'll put a FEMA starter on my TF stag, it needs the nose weight.
Later,
Ted
Do yourself a favor, check out robarts site.
Which ignitions are you going to use? you dont have to switch to EI to use the TS on the G38, there is a way to put the sensor at the rear. (and put the $200 - 300 in your pocket, unless you already have EI)
Check out robarts website - They have drawings for the retracts online, just find the 310's on their website, and you'll have a really good starting point. (hint hint)
I think i'm giving up the idea of the on board starting units. The FEMA units mount in the rear, where the twinsinc sensor needs to be (because the magneto is in front - sensors need to keep there distance), and at approx.150.00 EACH to replace the mags with elec. ignition, I'll be at $1000.00 to make it happen. For $1000.00, I'll put my welding glove on and flip the damn props myself! The wife is due this May, and baby boy needs alot of diapers! I gotta take care of my future co-pilot! I bought Baby Teddy his first airplane already, I'll post a picture of it later, you'll get a kick out of it, it'll blow you away, (hint, hint)
Dont worry about me....got enough surpluss stock in the basement to keep me flyin for a while! (TF Staggerwing w/ saito 220, Cermark F-16 w/ JETT 90L, Laser 200 w/ saito 125 - all need to be hatched from their boxes! I knew there was a reason I was putting them away in the basement - like a bear eating before hibernation to build up his fat stores!)
Maybe i'll put a FEMA starter on my TF stag, it needs the nose weight.
Later,
Ted
Do yourself a favor, check out robarts site.
03-12-2008, 05:59 PM
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RE: Hostetler 310 Build
Whos got a good idea for radio knobs? I'm thinking craft store might have something. Little tiny beads? cut off dowl rod & paint?
Time to carve some seats out of foam - anybody have any good techniques for 'upholstery'? The more I stare at this thing, the more I want to scale it up.
any good ideas on panel lines and rivets - I like new sugestions - I was thinking taping the lines off in between coats, and poking the rivets with a tiny sharpened tube. - lotsa work.
Time to carve some seats out of foam - anybody have any good techniques for 'upholstery'? The more I stare at this thing, the more I want to scale it up.
any good ideas on panel lines and rivets - I like new sugestions - I was thinking taping the lines off in between coats, and poking the rivets with a tiny sharpened tube. - lotsa work.
03-22-2008, 02:37 AM
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RE: Hostetler 310 Build
Hi Ted,
any info on the right engine angle ?? My C-160 (2x 15ccm) has a 4° off-set, so I was just wondering .....
I can´t find any reference to this on the drawings ....
Done with the rudder and the stabs, but it was quite a pain in the rear, while rib drawings for the stabs did not match at all .......
I´ve also adapted your solution for the removable stabilizers (16mm Dur-Alu tubing) and still working on the central control-linkage for the elevators inside the tail ...
Landing gear mechanisms are comming along nicely, only the pneum. cylinders (probably FESTO) are still an issue ...
Thank God we just moved to a 200 year old farm-house last summer with a barn attached big enough for three tennis-courts inside
For radio-knobs you could cut them off of an appropriate dia. carbon stab and just polish them up a bit, then glue in place ...
As for the seats, carve them out of styrofoam and covered with spray-glue just dip them into a fine fibre-granulate (available in div. colours at craft shops) that railroad modellers or architectural modellers use for surfaces .... you´ll get a perfect courdroy effect ....
For the seat-panel separations use a very thin cord or sewing-thread glued on the seat/backrest-cushion lines (Recaro-style ? ) ....
Panel lines and rivets are really fun to do !!! Best to etch them in with a fine needle (very carefully) along a steel lineal onto the primed surface ... the rivets like you said ......
Regards,
Charles
any info on the right engine angle ?? My C-160 (2x 15ccm) has a 4° off-set, so I was just wondering .....
I can´t find any reference to this on the drawings ....
Done with the rudder and the stabs, but it was quite a pain in the rear, while rib drawings for the stabs did not match at all .......
I´ve also adapted your solution for the removable stabilizers (16mm Dur-Alu tubing) and still working on the central control-linkage for the elevators inside the tail ...
Landing gear mechanisms are comming along nicely, only the pneum. cylinders (probably FESTO) are still an issue ...
Thank God we just moved to a 200 year old farm-house last summer with a barn attached big enough for three tennis-courts inside
For radio-knobs you could cut them off of an appropriate dia. carbon stab and just polish them up a bit, then glue in place ...
As for the seats, carve them out of styrofoam and covered with spray-glue just dip them into a fine fibre-granulate (available in div. colours at craft shops) that railroad modellers or architectural modellers use for surfaces .... you´ll get a perfect courdroy effect ....
For the seat-panel separations use a very thin cord or sewing-thread glued on the seat/backrest-cushion lines (Recaro-style ?
) ....Panel lines and rivets are really fun to do !!!
Best to etch them in with a fine needle (very carefully) along a steel lineal onto the primed surface ... the rivets like you said ......Regards,
Charles
03-22-2008, 03:36 AM
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RE: Hostetler 310 Build
Hi Ted, for seats, I used the Hanger 9, pt # 1889, for their 1/5th Scale Cessna 182. You will need 6 seats. Sold in sets of 4. They may not still be available?? Cut 5/16th wide stips of suede for seat belts. For a more accurate scale appearence, I wish I had shortened the seat back and the lenth of the seat itself and also made a frame to hold it up off the floor.......next time. Rick
03-29-2008, 01:21 AM
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RE: Hostetler 310 Build
6 seats! Hey, wait, i think i found a pict. on airliners.net of a 310R interior that has a minibar in the last row - 2 less seats to make! just kidding....
I think i'm going to try somthing new - tell me what you think. I'll end up looking like a big pink gorilla if i sand 6 seats by hand - the pink stuff gets everywhere!
I'm just thinking out loud here, so bear with me.....
make one 'plug' seat out of clay - 3 parts - bottom, top, headrest...
make a plaster mold (ala plaster of paris)
pour that 2 part foam the boat guys use that expands to like 9 go-zillion times the original volume. cut the excess foam off the back.
6 identical looking seats, ready for covering.
..........or i could just buy the H9 seats, but thats no fun!
Hey Rick, what did you make your quadrant out of? looks like resin?
Ted
I think i'm going to try somthing new - tell me what you think. I'll end up looking like a big pink gorilla if i sand 6 seats by hand - the pink stuff gets everywhere!
I'm just thinking out loud here, so bear with me.....
make one 'plug' seat out of clay - 3 parts - bottom, top, headrest...
make a plaster mold (ala plaster of paris)
pour that 2 part foam the boat guys use that expands to like 9 go-zillion times the original volume. cut the excess foam off the back.
6 identical looking seats, ready for covering.
..........or i could just buy the H9 seats, but thats no fun!
Hey Rick, what did you make your quadrant out of? looks like resin?
Ted
03-29-2008, 03:08 AM
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RE: Hostetler 310 Build
Hi Ted, thats alot of work making 6 of those seats.....but suede covering would look the best, but the 1st few attemps may be disappointing till you get the procedure down....2 sets of the Hanger 9 seats cost me about $85.00. .My center console is from a "Bob Divley" Bud Nosen Cessna 310 cockpit kit. But thats all I used from it since I already had it. Carve one out of solid balsa block...scatchbuild the levers from flat 1/16" aluminum stock with 3/16" dia. wood dowel 1/8th" wide, painted black, blue and red. Rick
05-31-2008, 07:54 AM
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RE: Hostetler 310 Build
im building a nosen 310.. im making my tip tank so they are real tanks.. hold 20 oz fuel in each one. using quick disconnects when i take wings apart to transport. thought well they are there why not make them work like real ones.. will have refuel connects on each tank.
06-02-2008, 01:03 AM
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RE: Hostetler 310 Build
I have a silly question what is the difference between this kit and a bud nosen 310 im new to the big gun kits i got ahold of two bud nosen kits that one is complete mabe i could get some pointers from you the plane is looking real nice so far i see the dates in the post and from the looks of it its taken quite a bit thanks good luck
06-02-2008, 09:05 AM
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RE: Hostetler 310 Build
this biggest difference is how the drawer of the plans laid it out. everyone has there own ideal when they draw up plans. i noticed the wings were built different.. this one uses spars to hook the wings togeather.. nosen uses alum. tubes to hook the wings togeather. I took the nosen and changed alot of it up to do what i wanted with it.