Props4ever

Hey 2engsout,

I have a question for you, i have read on this thread before that 6" main wheels should be on this model, now on the plans it calls for a lot smaller size then 6" yet you and others have said same. Now i really like to know the right scale size wheels for this model as i'm shooting to get 4.75" for mains and 3.75" for nose for my 310!.

I don't know about Hostetler 310 but i know G&L Hobbies fiberglass fuselage has longer nose with more streamlined top vs Nosen's!. Now i don't know what model his FG fuselage is based on but i am sure you would be able figure that one out.

Sam

donnyman

If I am not to late, rolled in a tube if you please.

donnyman

Man you really cramped my style Wendell H. is tops on my list of designers. Didn't know he had a 310 working especially the "R".
Now I have to start all over again. Gotta check out his plans. I was going to modify my kit. but now Awww -

Props4ever

Yep no problem Donny, i think i have enough spare tubes...

Will keep ya posted!...

2engsout

My Feedback: (2)

Hello Sam, my 310 was already built when I got it, but I have spent just as much time on it fixing all the mistakes and weak spots on the plane. If you browse thru all 600 310 pics on www.airliners.net like I have,,,,you will find atleast 6 different nose designs from 1955 thru 1975. G&L makes a nice fuse, but the nose is too short to be concidered a 1975 "R" model. His tip tanks are the scale lenth for the Nosen tip cord. The Hostetler tip cord is 2" longer thus a longer tip tank, which is sold along with the more scale cowlings by www.stansfibertech.com. The correct tip cord to tip tank lenth is ( tip cord x 248%) = tip tank lenth. Both tip tanks are the correct ratio for each model. I do alot of scratchbuilding, so I scale off of pics and do the math for the increase in % to model size. The scale mains are 6" and the scale nose is 4". Dennis at Glennis wheels (530-742-3957) is now making me the only scale 6" dia. mains for the Cessna in the world along with the only correctly scaled 4" nose wheel with the correct hub dia. to tire dia. ratio, (1.850 dia. hub). My nosen wing already had the stock Nosen aluminum wing tubes in place which were very sloppy !! I glued my wing to a one piece unit. Then I could notch out the tubes to fit a 4.5" main as in the first pic. Notice the necessary bridge work needed to support the retract rails in the 2nd pic !! Now in the 2nd and 3rd pic, the 6" main mods are shown with a mockup wheel assembly. I ran a sq. ply stock between the ribs foward and aft of the wheel wells to support the missing tubes. Its alot easier when you build the wing with this in mind Just space out the carbon wing tubes to clear the tire....... Rick

2engsout

My Feedback: (2)

Stans fibertech also makes the glass nacelles, glass nose, tip tanks, glass roof, and cowls for the Hostetler 310R version. That saves alot of time....Rick

HI847

Hi 2 engsout: I got myself the A&A Industries kit plus the G&L Fuse and fiber parts. Not much into the scale part but I know it will be a georgous model at the end when finished. Im following the 6" wheels thread as Im considering them as well but I noticed the aluminum tube was grinded for space. Questions: You have a one piece wing?, If you would build it in 2-3 pieces would you use the same type of aluminum tubes or would you carbon fiber?, is there enough space to move the spars apart and use fiber spars?.

Thanks for the help.

Christian

HI847

Another issue I would like to comment is the following: I know about the gas and the glow but I need more imput from you guys. So far Im stcuk with the Zenoah 26 fro my project but have you heard about the Evolution 26 gas?. Any comments?. I understand also that (on the glow side) either OS160 2 trokes could be installed as well as the twin cyl OS160 4 stroke. Your imput will be apreciated.

Christian

Props4ever

Hi Rick,

Even before you came on here i had visited A.net and J.net to see if can find some good and interesting Canadian Livery for my 310 but to my surprise except one or two rest were boring. I also looked at Landing gears and wheels though i had mixed feelings afterwards as some pictures show big main wheels and other not so big. As far as different noses and models are concerned i was amazed with there differences and variations!. Again some were very attractive and others were [:'(] also!. I do like the big planes and longer nose 310s are very attractive but since my models is intact i am not going to get newer parts just now but i do plan to get G&L Hobbies tip tanks and L/G doors as they are nice and price is very affordable also.
Now in regards of aluminum tubes i also have bit of concern, it seems as right OB wing panel when assembled to center with there feels to be a flex in tubes as wing does not but joins at both ribs as there becomes a 1/8" gap on the top portion of the ribs and when i push OB wing inwards it corrects it's dihedral angle but soon as i let it go, wing lop sides down!. I cant figure out why is this happening.

2engsout

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Guys, The retract centerline will stay the same when going with the 6" mains. You can use the Dubro TL 600 tires. Nice and light and just paint the hubs white. When retracted, the tire will touch the underside of the wing skin, so you will have to use 1/4" hardwood spacers under each side of the rails to jack it up high enough to get the locking pin to function. I also had to use tapered shims pancaked on the other shims to get the struts plum when the gear is down. I think you can see those in the pics? Shim to get the angles correct and build a hardwood bridge to support the rails or you will rip out the front ones on the 1st rough langing you make!! I skinned the underside of the nacelles with 1/16" basswood for a solid base to glue the bridges to. Use G-26's with the magnetos and a APC 17-8 prop = 8600 RPMS on the ground with a ABLE muffler....They are more reliable than the electronic version because there is less stuff to fail ! I have never had one quit!! There should be enough room to go with a 3/4" dia. carbon wing tube in front and a 3/4" tube in the rear if you need a 3 piece wing. Check the dimensions of the ribs for proper placement. The aluminum rod is very weak and bends way too easy. It also fits loose in the aluminum tube. It's not fixable unless you do what I did. JB weld the tubes and then quickly slide the wing panal in place and then tighten the hold down screws with the wing inverted, closing the gap at the top of the wing skin = the 1/8" gap will actually be on the bottom of the wing. Do one side at a time and let it dry overnight. Then put a monocoat strip 1" wide along the top of the wing panal to center section joint. Then invert the wing again and mix up some 30 minute epoxy and pour 1 ounce of it down thru the 1/8" gap and use a heat gun or hair dryer to help make it flow and run all the way down to the top of the wing skin, which is the only parts that are acually touching each other. The monocoat keeps it from running out onto the table. Then do the other side. Then go back and mix another 1 ounce and top off the 1st joint and repeat for the 2nd. Then cover the bottom with monocoat and your good to go! This will increase aleron response greatly and your plane won't look like a giant seagull flaping it's wings like it use to!!. I use aleron differential and it turns better!! = more up throw, than down throw. About twice as much up, than down. And don't forget your Twinsync ! www.rcshowcase.com Rick

Props4ever

Donny we have to find another option now, check your pm and reply back, Thanks
Sam

DelRay

Christian, last year I installed two, new Saito 1.20's to replace the older O.S. 1.20's that were used in my 310. The new Saitos are very reliable and plenty of power. I use onboard glo drivers for starting purposes only, the Saitos have a very reliable idle. I use no sync systems either, they tune within 100 rpm of each other.

donnyman

Delray, are your 120's four stroke or two? I didn't think 120 fs would pull the 310 very well.
Also, are you using retracts? if so what brand? If you use 12o fs my 160 fs 's should haul.

DelRay

Donnyman, the 1.20's I had on my 310 before were O.S. four strokers on CH Ignition and performed very well for many years. I'm using Robart gear. My 310 weighs in about 36 pounds, and the new Saito four strokes haul it around very nicely. I'm using Graupner 14/7 three blade props. The 1.60's should do a good job for you.

donnyman

Delray been looking at this thread and realized I did not respond to the answer you gave me So! Thank you And HAPPY NEW YEAR.

handyman_alw_

My Feedback: (14)

Donnyman,

Don't worry about Del Ray everyone that knows him ingores him too so you fit right in.[:-][sm=drowning.gif] Have a great new year. You to del ray.

Allen

preditor

Do you still have the wing rib templates to your 310. I have everything except the rib temps. Thanks

2engsout

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Guys, anyone wanting to go to larger main tires should probably use the 5.5" dia. tires. That's Dubro pt # is 550TL. I have switched to the 5.5 and I think I like them better than the 6". I don't think this post will matter much since I don't know of anyone using the larger mains anyway. My scratchbuilt Cessna 414 with take a trip to the airport for some great pics here shortly. I will post as soon as I can.........Rick

vmeek

My Feedback: (38)

I will have to open a kit to draw templates of the ribs if you can wait.

handyman_alw_

My Feedback: (14)

I think i still have two sets of plans. if can not find any let me know and i will get a copy to you.

Allen

Bill Diedrich

E-mail on the way with former plans attached, download to CD take to Blueprint shop
and have them printed, will cost $4-$5 approx. for one sheet. of formers only.

Cheers

Bill D.

Bill Diedrich

For those of you out there that have been following this
thread, TooLow and I have come up with the idea of
formiong a "Nosen Cessna 310 Club", check out the
following thread: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8623774/tm.htm

flyme2moon

My Feedback: (1)

hi guys,  recently started my nosen 310   have the fuselage partly built up, working on the nose gear doors, this is plan "B"   I didn't like Plan "A" reviewed this entire thread and nothing on gear doors, got to have doors

2engsout

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Guys, I have this Nosen 310 fuse for sale. I flew it about 15 flights. Never crashed. I used the wing from it to build a 24% Cessna 414, so I want to sell it to somebody who will get her flying. It has been modified to
1973 Q model specifacations with the Vista View side windows, rear window and 95%
complete cockpit. I also reshaped the roof line and flatened it out to scale profile. It sure
would save somebody alot of work getting this one RTF. It dose not come with the nose retract unit, or elevator or rudder servos, but it dose come with the retract servo and Robart air valve with large air tank and fill port all in place. I have $150 already invested in the cockpit and another $100 in the air system and switches. It only weighs 8 lbs. I would consider the best offer over $375.00. You could'nt build it for that and it would probably take a good 3 months to build. I have never seen a Nosen fuse modified to 1973 Q model specs like this before. This is too big to ship so it's a local pickup here in Omaha NE. Feel free to ask questions. Let me know by sending me a PM. Thanks Guys ! Rick Simmons