Nosen Cessna 310
09-25-2007, 03:35 PM
#1
Nosen Cessna 310
Ive read alot of post on using gas engines for the power source for the 310.
If anyone is using the g23 or g26 size engines please send me pictures of how you mounted the engines.
I cant see how they can be mounted without the carb sticking out the top on a sideways mount or with the jugs hanging out the botom.
So here is your chance to post those pictures to brag about the best looking twin that I feel has ever been built.
If anyone is using the g23 or g26 size engines please send me pictures of how you mounted the engines.
I cant see how they can be mounted without the carb sticking out the top on a sideways mount or with the jugs hanging out the botom.
So here is your chance to post those pictures to brag about the best looking twin that I feel has ever been built.
10-11-2007, 07:53 AM
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RE: Nosen Cessna 310
I will try and post a pick of how I have them mounted....You are correct in the fact that one way or another the engine will hang out the top or bottom. I have a set of G-23's in mine (mounted upside down) with the jug hanging out the bottom.
10-15-2007, 12:32 AM
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RE: Nosen Cessna 310
Hi Guys, I have inverted G-26's on mine and it flys just fantastic. I use APC 17-8, turning 8600 rpms with Abel mufflers. Weighs 36lbs. I have NO lead in the nose and the CG is exactly 6" behind the leading edge. Best flying plane I own!! Use a twin sync and beef up the area between the retract rails and the underside of the nacelles for more support !! Rick
10-16-2007, 08:49 PM
#5
RE: Nosen Cessna 310
Would it be possible to see a few pictures of your plane?
How and where did you mount your wing servos?
Did you build your wing as a 3 piece as with the plans?
Im trying something I thought up from the old Byrons jets.
Using a aluminum bar and slide to make a 2 piece wing.
I can take photos if anyone wants to take a look but you need to let me know asap cause I am going to start building the wing in a day or so and the parts will be buried in the wing.
How and where did you mount your wing servos?
Did you build your wing as a 3 piece as with the plans?
Im trying something I thought up from the old Byrons jets.
Using a aluminum bar and slide to make a 2 piece wing.
I can take photos if anyone wants to take a look but you need to let me know asap cause I am going to start building the wing in a day or so and the parts will be buried in the wing.
10-16-2007, 10:11 PM
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RE: Nosen Cessna 310
Hello, this is the only pic I have of it, sorry. I glued my wing panals together and it made it alot more stable flyer. If you can possibly haul it to the field as one piece, do it. With the dihedral envolved,,,I am not sure how secure the connection can be as a 2 piece wing. Also configure your spar posistions in the wing using the scale 6" dia. main tire. The plans only allow for a 4" dia. tire. Mine was already built when I bought it, so I had to cutout some material and then re-enforce it just to use 5" tires. I changed the roof line to the 1973 "Q" model, and added the rear and vista side windows. I really like the way it looks compared to the funky "G" model the plans are drawn from. Go to www.airliners.net and search "Cessna 310" and you will see 500 pics of the 310 from all angles. Its my main sorce of documentation. I skined the underside of the nacelle sheeting with 1/16" basswood epoxied in directly under the retract rails to secure a solid foundation for the 1/4" thick hardwood bridges that will support the bottom of the retract rails. As designed per plans,,,its a very weak area and I have seen several others break the rail mounting as I did before the re-enforcment. The wing servos are mounted in the wing directly ahead of the control horn with a short 4-40 pushrod with the servo shaft pointing towards the ground. Only the servo arm will be exposed. You will need acess to the servo so dont hide it. Use some 3/8" sq. hardwood stock to mount your aleron servos. You can use a wing spar and a wing rib to epoxy the stock to in conjunction with the wing sheeting. Use some aleron differential= more up throw than down throw. Down throw adds drag to the high wing, which you dont want when trying to bank. My plane banked soo much better after adding differential. My plane has exactly one half degree of positive wing incidence with the stab at "ZERO". Wing incidence was measured just outboard of the nacelles. Flys great ! Dont fly this plane without a twin sync ! Its got a ton and a half of drag on the dead engine side when you loose an engine!!= BAD..With a twin sync,,,the plane just slows down with the wings level= very nice. I personally would not want engines smaller than G-26's to fly this plane. Rick Simmons Zenoah engine beta tester for the twin sync.
10-16-2007, 10:52 PM
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RE: Nosen Cessna 310
Hi again, since your just starting your project, look at the Cessna 310's on airliners.net and make sure which version of the 310 turns you on, cause its gonna be a long project. You may want to consider building the later "R" version (1975 thru 1980). Fiberglass Specialties sell glass cowls, tip tanks and nacells for the Wendell Hostetler Cessna 310"R" that can be fitted to the Nosen 310 to convert it to the later versions. Call Brad at 479-359-2429. The glass parts are scaled for the later versions of the 310 and will save you a bunch of work. About 1971 thru 1980 models. You could even get the glass "long" nose piece to build the 1975 "R" model which was a much better looking plane in my opinion. I will eventually add the longer nose piece to mine. I am currently building a Cessna 414. I will post a pic maybe next week of the fuse in primer. Rick
10-16-2007, 11:09 PM
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RE: Nosen Cessna 310
Hi VMEEK, let me clarify the retract re-enforcement procedure. I epoxied 1/16 thick basswood sheeting about 4" wide to the inside of the nacelle sheeting. 30 minute epoxy here. It exstended 3" ahead of the front rail and about 3" behind the rear rail to base a large area solid foundation to glue 1/4" thick hardwood bridges under EACH retract rail for support. This is done after the retract rails are glued into the stock location as per plans. Simply make a cardstock pattern of the proper size to fill this void. If I were to build one from the start, I would definatly follow the recomendations above for a great looking 310 !! Hope this helps. Rick
10-16-2007, 11:20 PM
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RE: Nosen Cessna 310
Vmeek, if you look at my pic above, you will see a little black hole on the right side of the cowl. This is where the stock black plastic velocity stack exstends to meet the cowl. Its flush and is hardly noticable. This will help answer your question about inverting the G-26's. P.S. I have never had a G-26 quit on me. But plan on using a twin sync anyway, its insurance !! Rick
10-17-2007, 09:56 PM
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RE: Nosen Cessna 310
Vmeek, you can download the manual from www.rcshowcase.com I think its in the accesory link. Its not too late to re-shape that roofline if you want to bring it up to a later model version. Rick
10-17-2007, 10:38 PM
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RE: Nosen Cessna 310
Vmeek, looking at your pics, I need you to be aware that alot of the guys I know who have owned and flown the Nosen 310,,,when built to plan specifacations,,,have broken or cracked the rudder at its base where it connects to the fuse. The rudder post really needs to be 3" longer than it is so that it can tie in to the bottom of the fuse as it exstends down thru the stab. Preferably, using carbon fiber laminated to the wood rudder post. The first time I fired up both of my engines,,,I thought the rudder was going to break off. Since my plane was built to specs,,, I had to tie in some Kevlar flying wires from the top of the vertical fin down to the tips of the stabs, and then along the bottom side of the stab also for equal tension on the stab. I think Sullivan makes these with Kevlar string and clevisis. I have had no issues what so ever with vibration induced cracks. I suspect you will have to do the same, but do what you can to better secure the rudder to stab connection. If you can still remove the rudder from the vertical stab,,,you can take some .030 thick carbon fiber laminate, the same shape as the rudder post,,,only about 3" longer, and epoxy it right on top of the post thats already there. From top to bottom, plus 3", or what ever it takes to get to the bottom of the fuse. Also, web sparing on the wing ribs is recomended from nacelle to nacelle. The guy who told me about all these mods I have mentioned thus far was a professional builder who had built 3 of these Nosen 310's and also a full scale charter pilot flying the 310. Rick
10-17-2007, 11:00 PM
#15
RE: Nosen Cessna 310
No prob with the carbon fiber I have rods and strips.
I do plan on extending both the leading and trailing post to the bottom of the fuse.
This is my second build of this model. the first one died before its first flight in New York when I moved to Arizona. I built the tail section as a modulor unit in case I changed my mind about how to support it before final gluing. so far nothing is glued together.
I like to get a feel for how things are going to line up and level out.
My tail sits at 0 degrees to the datum line. I have carbon rods in the stab and carbon strips in the vertical.
A trick I learned from my ducted fan days was to use carbon strips in all trailing edges of all surfaces to stop warpage and helps with hanger rash.
what do you think of my center section? my aluminum is 1/8in thick and 1in wide and as long as the brace. the rear bease is the same as the other but is 1/2 in wide.
There will be guide pins forward and aft to prevent twisting.
My out board wing, I replaced the metal rods with 1/2 in dowels which are light in weight and will be epoxied in place for support that eliminates out board flapping.
I do plan on extending both the leading and trailing post to the bottom of the fuse.
This is my second build of this model. the first one died before its first flight in New York when I moved to Arizona. I built the tail section as a modulor unit in case I changed my mind about how to support it before final gluing. so far nothing is glued together.
I like to get a feel for how things are going to line up and level out.
My tail sits at 0 degrees to the datum line. I have carbon rods in the stab and carbon strips in the vertical.
A trick I learned from my ducted fan days was to use carbon strips in all trailing edges of all surfaces to stop warpage and helps with hanger rash.
what do you think of my center section? my aluminum is 1/8in thick and 1in wide and as long as the brace. the rear bease is the same as the other but is 1/2 in wide.
There will be guide pins forward and aft to prevent twisting.
My out board wing, I replaced the metal rods with 1/2 in dowels which are light in weight and will be epoxied in place for support that eliminates out board flapping.
10-18-2007, 08:20 PM
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RE: Nosen Cessna 310
Vmeek, I stand corrected, you can call Craig at Fiberglass Specialties for stock early version 310 glass cowls at 479-359-2429... You can call Brad at Stans Fiberglass for the Wendell Hostetler later version cowls , tip tanks, nacelle covers, and the roof cover. BUT, the roof cover is too wide for the Nosen fuse, because the the Hostetler fuse is 12" wide and the Nosen fuse is 10" wide. It can be sectioned down the middle lenthwise to fit if you want to take the time. The glass nacelles have the fillets molded in, but, they fit the Hostetler wing airfoil,,,which is slightly different than the Nosen airfoil. Rick
10-18-2007, 08:28 PM
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RE: Nosen Cessna 310
Vmeek, Stans fiberglass # is 805-922-3262. Ask for Brad. They also make the long glass "R" model nose piece. It can be re-tro fitted to go on the stock Nosen short nose. Good people to work with. Rick
10-19-2007, 08:53 AM
#18
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RE: Nosen Cessna 310
Vmeek,
Any 310 project has interest to me. Here's a few things I did with mine, and it looks like you're in the right place of the build to possibly utilize some of the ideas. The rudder linkage is all concealed behind the access panel, also the cross linkage for the elevator. The panel on the nose is for the two rcvr switches and the pneumatic fill for the brakes and retracts. The warning l.e.d. for the redundant battery switchover is in the center of the dash behind the windshield, visible from outside. I have two Saito 1.2's for power on mine, and use M.P.I. onboard glo units. I don't use any electronic engine syncing system. Jim
Any 310 project has interest to me. Here's a few things I did with mine, and it looks like you're in the right place of the build to possibly utilize some of the ideas. The rudder linkage is all concealed behind the access panel, also the cross linkage for the elevator. The panel on the nose is for the two rcvr switches and the pneumatic fill for the brakes and retracts. The warning l.e.d. for the redundant battery switchover is in the center of the dash behind the windshield, visible from outside. I have two Saito 1.2's for power on mine, and use M.P.I. onboard glo units. I don't use any electronic engine syncing system. Jim
10-25-2007, 01:49 AM
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RE: Nosen Cessna 310
Hi VMEEK, the G-23 will fly it but slower than the G-26's in mine. I like my planes a little on the fast side. Put a APC 17-8 on that G-23 with a free flowing muffler (Abel), mounted on the bench, and see how close you can come to 8600 rpms. Thats what mine turn it, and I would not enjoy flying mine as much if I had to slow down. Tie in the firewall to the wing with some 1/8"th plywood along the insides of the nacelles to help add strenth and mass which reduses vibration transfer to the rest of the airframe. 32's would be overkill, because it wont fly any faster than it dose with the G-26"s. Too much drag..... Rick
10-25-2007, 02:20 PM
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RE: Nosen Cessna 310
I fly mine with a pair of Fox 2.4 or 40cc with 3-blade props. it is fast and climbs out very well. check out my profile for i am flying 3 nosen's 310's. two are glow and the third is gas.
Allen
Allen
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