panhandler

I got time to apply Bobs idea on reinforcing the tail section of the nacelle.

The resulsts are very satisfying . Thank you Bob .

I wraped the entire section with 1/64" ply after soaking the ply with water .Then i applied non expanding Gorilla glue to the front and upper section. This glue works great with wet wood .For filler i used lightweight spakling and had to feathure it some 4 inches forward to get it to blend.
Then very carefuly cut the stab and rudder slots with a Dremel. This mod greatly improves the stability of this section.

Also i reinstalled all the plywood in the tail section that i had to cut out when i removed the horizontal stab and rudders.

While i was working in this area i decided to blend in the bottom side of the tail, She is looking real good and much stronger.

I am just about ready to put the final covering on . I have been talking to the people at Wowplanes and i am convinced on going with there product Liquid Sheeting-2.
http://www.wowplanes.com/product_inf...roducts_id=130 I intend to cover both booms , pod and mid wing section before painting.I feel very confident she is going to come out great , the suport from Wowplanes is fantastic , thank you Fahim

I am getting very anxiuos to get her all together,,,,, still waiting on few parts from Gary .

Pics to come .

Dan

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay Dan,
Nice work. I liked your blending idea...and I've yet to do this on my model. After I read your first write up about covering the piece like you did, I thought about doing the same. But I figured if I ever knock this part of the tail off flying the model, I will have other more serious issues to deal with...so I went with the shorter piece.

I have managed to recover the tail feathers and will start the turbo covers next.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

kakariki

My Feedback: (6)

Hi All
          Do any of you forum members know Gary who sells the P-38 kits, I cannot contact him here in the forum or PM or his email.
I purchased one back in April but haven't received it yet and as a paraplegic pensioner I cannot afford to lose money like this and need to get the kit or a refund so I can do something else.
Thanks Barry

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hi Guys,
Slooowly, I'm getting my bird together. I finished the removable tail mod and Super Monokoted all surfaces. I'm getting to like the new Super Monokote and it does apply better then the old stuff. I just wonder if the new Super Monokote will be as durable as the old covering.

I'm officially onto building my turbo charger wing hatches.

The little critter in the last picture landed next to my bird bath. It had a wing span of about 2", (I think it was a real young Finch)...and figured it was new to the flying game, for it had a long take off run... : )...when it departed the area.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

panhandler

Got time to get a few more things done
I applied LS2 to the pod today .
I figure i would start with the pod sense it is the smallest section that i want to do , Then i will do both booms and mid wing section.

I did some testing first on scrap pieces to see how the material flowed and if you all have watched the video on Wowplanes it is a must to keep what ever your covering moving as in rotating .The first 20 mins are crucial ,,, keep it moving !!!!

There are other threads that gointo quite a bit of detail so i wont here .

As directed i primerd the pod first with a latex primer ,,,Zinsser 1 2 3( my choice of primer ) I applied 2 thin coats straight from the can and sanded with 400 grit before and after each coat.
This seem to seal the raw balsa very well.

After letting the primer dry for 3 days it came time to apply LS2. I rigged the rotisserie from my BBQ to keep the pod in motion with a makeshift head and tail stock.
This worked very well.

What i learned from my test pieces is don't be stingy on applying the LS2 .

To mix it i bought 2 oz. squeezable bottles with capsfrom MSC and marked them at 1" and 2" from the bottom of the bottle and this made it very easy to get the right mixture correct.

panhandler

A few pics of the process .

I decided to keep the main gear door attached so to keep it from flopping as it turned , first i tried masking tape , but it didn't last long so i used my small clamps on the hinges to keep it in place.

panhandler

I must have deleted coat number 2 by accident but here are coats 3 and 4.

I will let this set up for 24 hours and then sand with 400 grit then apply the last coat .

I am vary happy with the reults so far ,

If anyone is wondering just how much i applied ,, the first 3 coats were a toatal of 2 ounces ( as per the squeeze bottle size ) and the fourth coat i applied a bit more , at about 3/4 of an ounce .I got the hang of it at this point .


Dan

panhandler

4th coat

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Really nice work Dan. I bet she is very strong as well. Do you think aluminum foil would go over it pretty good now?

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

That is some awesome work....
Bob Paris

panhandler

The LS2 can be considered as a tough shell . I tried the finger nail test and pushed in on a spot that wont be noticed and all i can say is that balsa would have definatly gave way.Gary as for covering in aluminum , if this type of covering works well with a sheer smooth surface then yes . I would rough it up a bit with 300 or 400 grit first .
Like i said earlier it took me a few coats before i got the hang of applying LS2. My final coats i got brave and applied it very heavy and it worked great..

When i get to covering the booms i think i can cut down on the number of coats by applying it on the heavy side.

Here are a few pics after sanding the fourth coat with 400 grit , just to take the sheen off , but in the pic it still looks glassy under the lights.
Oh ya i found one thing that is a must , have plenty of lighting on the project this makes it much easier to see the flow .

The last pic is the final 5th coat . This time i marked my 2 oz. bottle at 5/8" and 1-1/4" from the base and poured it on with just pushing the material and not painting it , sense LS2 will still move a bit while rotating to make an even coat.

At the time i am planning on spray painting with a chrome aluminum color. Still need to get the nerve to sand and paint the original wings and tail feathures to match .

Thank you Gary and Bob i am venturing into territories i never thought i would go. Isn't this hobby we have great !!!!!!

Dan

wowplanes

Dan

I have been silently following your work here with LS2. I must say, you have mastered the technique very well in such a short time. The pod looks great.
If anyone has any questions about LS2, I will be glad to help.

Fahim

panhandler

The more i look at the finish product using LS2 i have to say i am very satisfied .

I am pushing forward and instaled the pod dooropening system .

The trick was coming up with just the right spring with the right tention toopen the door , but Glaciergirl and Ram found the solution.
A simple ball point pen spring mounted back to back with a washer to seperate the two springs works just right .( WTG )

Instead of using aluminum angle to anchor the assembly , i used something i had on hand .I just replaced my screen door and took a look at the Z bar on the top of the frame( this mite work ) . Sense it was aluminum and just about the right shape i cut a piece of it about 5/8" long . Then bent it to the correct angle , drilled a 5/32" hole thru one legg. And glued it in position inline with the hinge.

Now onto the door closing sytem and valve gear tray to complete the pod .

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Nice work. Your pod looks better than mine.

panhandler

Well sense i had the table and rotater setup i thought i would get the bay doors coverd in LS2.

I put the doors back to back on the rotisserie rod and luck would have it when the robart hinges are in this position the rod fit right thru them, just add clamps and everything is stable.

Picking away at her , Next is the wing mod . The plywood i ordered should be here in a few days , then i can make the rest of the ribs i need .

Gary we will see how she looks after the panel lines and rivets are on .

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hi Guys,
I've managed to finish my turbo charger covers, epoxy on my coolent housings and epoxy on my out board elevators. Tomorrow I will epoxy on the rudders, install the push rods for the stab and rudders, then all I will need to do is final my canopy. I will be in painting mode soon.

I have water based Varithane to use as a primer...do you know how much talcum powder I use when I mix for my weave filling primer-I've never used this process before ?

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Gary,
I am wondering on where exactly to balance the model. Do I balance it outboard of the engine naceles (like it shows in the instructions), or inboard next to the pilot pod ? What about control surface deflection...what did you use for your model ? If I balance next to the pilot pod...my model may be tail heavy. I will give you my final gross weight, prior to painting.
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Bob, I balance next to the crew pod.

Here are my recommendations. They have proven to be good settings.

Elevator - 1� up 3/4� down 65% expo

Rudder - max left and right 65% expo

Ailerons - 3/4� up 5/8� down 60% expo ( I have flown it using a Y on one channel with 3/4" both ways as well, and it was fine)

Flaps - 1st notch 3/4� 2nd notch 1 3/4�

Flap speed - down 7.50, up 1.00

CG - 5.25� to 5.5� from the leading edge next to the pod (gear up, dry)

Battery is in the nose of the crew pod.

Hope this helps.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Thanks for the information...

But is the CG checked next to the crew pod or the engine pods...? Please clearify. Gear retracted will push the CG more aft...I've always checked the CG with the wheels down and locked before.

I've now finished installing the tail flight controls and now hooking up the servo's. Yesterday, while installing new servo's...I managed to get a bad one...new out of the box. It is also important to make shure when you give left rudder...the nose wheel turns left (dont' ask how I found this out)...right along with your rudders.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

I checked the CG next to the crew pod, NOT THE BOOMS.

Setting the CG with the gear UP, insures that you have a comfortably nose heavy plane for take-offs and landings. Especially with rearward retracting gear, I ALWAYS set the CG with the gear UP. The last thing you want is a tail heavy plane, as you know.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Aloha from Maui...
Well I managed to get all my radio gear in and working properly. I then weighed the airframe, and it came out to 17 lbs.-6 oz. Then I did a C.G. check...and I needed to add 1 (one) pound of lead to the nose, to get a good balance. I am not happy with dead weight...so I will be ordering two "C" size 5 cell NiCad batteries from SR Batteries @ 10.1 oz. each - 2200ma. I'll remove the light weight nickle hydride's in the engine pods above the fuel tanks and this should balance the bird propely with out any dead weight. Total weight prior to paint is 18 lbs.-6 oz. balanced.

I've yet to attach and final the canopy...but thats next. I've still to make a stand for the bird and I'm going to make a stand just like yours. I like being able to cycle the gear and check everything prior to flight.

I want to thank you for all your help and advice...it's made this project a bit more easy to build.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

panhandler

Looking real good Bob .

I hope to get mine to wiegh in less than 20 lbs. At the rate your going your going to get your maiden in before me.

i hope you have better luck with your canopy then me . My canopy is extremely thin on one side and very thick on the oppisit side .

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay Panhandler,
Thanks for the kind words... and I would like to start the paint work in the coming week. My canopy is ok...not the best I've ever had, but usable. God bless, I would love a good replacement canopy. The quality control on some of N.P. airframes realy sucks.

A buddy of mine gave me 1.48 lbs of lead shot, and I will just drill a hole in my solid balsa nose, and place it there.

I'm not sure how the landing gear will hold up...the model is 4#'s heavyer then I planned on, but flying at a bit over 18#'s is one of the more lighter N.P. P-38's I've read about. My buddy Jerry Drake in Reno told me he witness a N.P. P-38 fly at 22.5#'s...and he said it flew like it was on rails, flew quite well, was powered by two OS .60 two strokes and that it was fast.

I've been flying my Real Flight P-38 and can manage to land it well enough, that I not to lose the landing gear. This computer P-38 is not easy to land and I pray my model flies like my compter model does. If I am able to land my model with any class at all, my landing gear should hold up. But I wish I went with more heavy built landing gear on my in my airframe. I've been known to do less then squeeker landings...in my past. But if the model is predictable, then I will be ok. I flew my ugly stick bi-plane today and belive me, its not an easy model to take off and land with any finess. But I did ok... : )

Ram3500RCU,
From what I understand, your going to rebuild your P-38. I do have three coolent housings (the fourth one was sent to N.P. but never replaced) that came with my kit...if you want them, just let me know and I'll mail them off to you.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Looking good Bob.

Keep in mind Steel Powder for ballast. Much better than lead.

I have the parts from #1[] (not in the best shape), plus 1 NIB complete kit, and another that is 90% complete. I'm good for now on parts, but maybe someone else will have need of them. Thanks for the offer. Hope someone can use them.

I will be going all out on the next one (aluminum, lights, and other scale detail). This wing is the best ever on an RC P-38 IMO. Takes the Meister approach. Make it fly good (flat bottom wing), then do what you can with the appearance. Nitro Planes just fell way short of what they could have done in that department, as we are proving.

Wish I could start soon, but not for awhile. These 110" Corsairs have both of us occupied for some time.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay Ram3500,
What is the difference between lead and steel powder ? What does 1.5 pounds of steel powder cost shipped to 96761.

I'm working on my canopy, and I am making a couple of mods to the canopy and its attachment. The kit instructions tell you to use sheet metal screws in three places up front and one in the aft part of the canopy next the the trailing edge of the wing. The aft attachment got me thinking a bit...

I put my P-38 together from the beginning as a weekend flyer. I wanted my airframe to look scale enough, but also easy to transport, assemble and fly. I can get at every thing and I've beefed every thing up I felt needed, for a long life...accept the canopy. To me, canopies can be a hastle, and if your flying a twin...the extra vibration can cause them to crack. The canopy on our P-38 was not as well made as...lets say, as Sig use to sell. If I need to take the canopy on and off many times...its going to, in time, crack. The aft section is the weakest part for IMHO...so I am going to try something new, to help keep it in one piece.

I made up some 20 min. epoxy, mixed in some chopped fiberglass, and filled in the last 1-1/2" of the canopy with the mixture. I made a dam of sorts with some blue tape, and I also ruffed up the aft under part of the canopy-so the epoxy would stick better. I made sure all was filled and level, and after it is set up, I'll drill through the canopy, epoxy, wing and into the aft part of the pilot pod. I will set in a blind nut to the bottom of the wing/pod, and this should do the trick to holding down that part of the canopy, and give it some good support. I hope it works...and no matter what, it will give me a solid connection.

I will use some 4 oz. cloth, cutting a half circle, 1" diam., and epoxy this on the the out side of the canopy, where the forward screws will go. I've done this in the past and it works great for keeping my canopy holes from growing bigger over time.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui