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  1. #851
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    RE: Nitroplanes 90


    ORIGINAL: panhandler

    Well there i go againg ,,, thinking to hard [img][/img]

    Thanks for the sugestion guys .Β*

    I will go through my stash of hard wood and build them up.
    Glad to help.

    BTW, be on the look out for some parts.
    Cheers,
    Gary P. / use Steel Powder for ballast not lead. PM me for more information.

  2. #852

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    RE: Nitroplanes 90

    Everything is looking real good now . I spent the past few days filling and sanding .

    Pod is ready for finishing also the booms are very close .

    I still need to reinforce the tail section of the booms , the way it came stock just bothers me . it looks to flimsy.

    I decided to go with the dual recievers to cut down on y-connections .

    Thank you Garyi'll keep a lookout for the parts , now i can get a good feel how to access the bats, if i can manuver around the tube supports ( still not to late to go with 4 strokes ) ;}
    I am still debaiting on rough sanding the original covering and painting over it ,, or just pull it all off and recover with fresh monokote.

    Decision decisions

    I feel as though i am getting close to putting her all together , i have to say this is the exciting part .

    Dan
    P-38 Lightning Brotherhood #21
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  3. #853
    ram3500-RCU's Avatar
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    RE: Nitroplanes 90

    ORIGINAL: panhandler

    Everything is looking real good now . I spent the past few days filling and sanding .

    Pod is ready for finishing also the booms are very close .

    I still need to reinforce the tail section of the booms , the way it came stock just bothers me . it looks to flimsy.

    I decided to go with the dual recievers to cut down on y-connections .

    Thank you GaryΒ*i'll keep a lookΒ*out for the parts Β*, now i can get a good feel how to access the bats, if i can manuver around the tube supports Β*( still not to late to go with 4 strokes ) ;}
    I am still debaiting on rough sanding the original covering and painting over it ,, or just pull it all off and recover with fresh monokote.

    DecisionΒ* decisions [img][/img]

    I feel as though i am getting close to putting her all together , i have to say this is the exciting part .

    Dan
    Dan, on the 4th, I had a chance to maiden an Aeroworks 1/5 scale P-51 that was built as an electric. It has a Hacker A80-8 motor, CC ICE speed control and two TP 6s 5000s. It is AWESOME, and I really believe that, when I open up the throttle, it sounds closer to the Merlin than a big single gas engine!

    Here is what I'm seriously thinking about now. When I rebuild, going electric. I can make battery compartments under the wing hatches. The skin can be cut out under the hatches to make room (makes no impact on wing strength), and they will be easy to access. I'll do contra rotating props as well.

    I'm even considering a Yellow or Ziroli P-38 on electric. The Hacker motor, battery, and speed control is just about the same cost as a DA 50, exhaust, fuel and ignition systems.

    One thing for sure. With the big motors, you go top shelf in batteries and speed controls.
    Cheers,
    Gary P. / use Steel Powder for ballast not lead. PM me for more information.

  4. #854

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    RE: Nitroplanes 90

    Sounds great with the P-51 , where is the video ?

    I can't believe your thinking of going with electric .

    If you need to flip a coin on the P-38 , hopefuly it falls on the Ziroli . If all goes well with this build i am definatly going that way.

    As far as power plant i am going with the lower end equitment , i am just getting back into building and flying so i think i should walk before i run .

    What i have on hand to power this bird is 2-Turnigy 6364 280kv motors and for power i have 2 Sky lipo's 4400 mAH 6s , with 2 Hobbyking platinum 80a series esc's . and to get the best performance from this is 2 APC 15 x13.5 x 3 props . And after bench testing all this pulls 44 amps on each bat and just over 18lbs of thrust . Motocalc says it shuold be in the range of 75 mph .

    I know what you meen about the sound , when i pull these APC props up to full throttle they sound sweet.

    Well back to more sanding .

    Dan
    P-38 Lightning Brotherhood #21
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  5. #855
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    RE: Nitroplanes 90


    ORIGINAL: panhandler

    Sounds great with the P-51 , where is the video ?

    I can't believe your thinking of going with electric .

    If you need to flip a coin on the P-38 , hopefuly it falls on the Ziroli . If all goes well with this build i am definatly going that way.

    As far as power plant i am going with the lower end equitment , i am just getting back into building and flying so i think i should walk before i run .

    What i have on hand to power this bird is 2-Turnigy 6364Β* 280kv motors and for powerΒ* i have 2 Sky lipo's 4400 mAH 6s , with 2 Hobbyking platinum 80a series esc's . and to get the best performance from this is 2 APC 15 x13.5 x 3 props . And after bench testing all this pulls 44 amps on each bat and just over 18lbs of thrust . Motocalc says it shuold be in the range of 75 mph .

    I know what you meen about the sound , when i pull these APC props up to full throttle they sound sweet.

    Well back to more sanding .

    Dan
    After flying that big P-51, I'm definitely thinking more about electric. I didn't expect the cool sound from the big electric equipment. Also, the breaking power you get being able to slow the motor down to just a few RPM.

    Cheers,
    Gary P. / use Steel Powder for ballast not lead. PM me for more information.

  6. #856

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    RE: Nitroplanes 90

    I did a little testing with paint the past few days and i am not realy happy with the results.
    I prepedthwe podwith roughing it up with 400 grit paper , cleaned it very well.

    Then shot it with 2 coats of grey primer from Sherwin Williams , and of course wet sanding between coats .

    I thought i found a close match with the finish color to come close to the original silver skin.
    I shot a test piece of balsasheeting to check the final color ,,SW chrome aluminum , it looked pretty close . Now i shot thepod
    and wow is that bright , looks more like polished aluminum .

    I have yet to try rustolium colors .I just may stay with this color but the only draw back is every imperfection stands out .

    Gary i hope we have better luck with snail mail then we do with emails , still no parts bud . If you sent them i hope our mail delivery person din't deliver to the wrong house , ( he has done this many times before ,, hmm wonder what he has under his seat ).

    Dan
    P-38 Lightning Brotherhood #21
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  7. #857
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    RE: Nitroplanes 90


    ORIGINAL: panhandler

    I did a little testing with paint the past few days and i am not realy happy with the results.
    Β*I preped one of the cowls with roughing it up with 400 grit paper , cleaned it very well.

    Then shot it with 2 coats of grey primer from Sherwin Williams , and of course wet sanding between coats .

    I thought i found a close match with the finish color to come close to the original silver skin.
    I shot a test piece of balsaΒ*sheeting to check the final color ,,SW chrome aluminum , it looked pretty close . Now i shot the cowl
    and wow is that bright , looks more like polished aluminum .

    I have yet to try rustolium colors .Β*Β*I just Β*may stay with this color but the only draw back is every imperfection stands out .

    Gary i hope we have better luck with snail mail then we do with emails , still no parts bud . If you sent them i hope our mail delivery person din't deliver to the wrong house , ( he has done this many times before ,, hmm wonder what he has under his seatΒ* [img][/img]).

    Dan
    Hang in there pal.
    Cheers,
    Gary P. / use Steel Powder for ballast not lead. PM me for more information.

  8. #858

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    RE: Nitroplanes 90

    No worries i am relieved the mailman didn't make another one of his goofs.

    I have been thinking of adding some more scale apperance to the gear doors on the inside , i think it would look great with the apperance of the metal frame work when there open .
    I was thinking of using .020 thick aluminum and punch the reliefe holes in them or form them from 2 oz. fiberglass .

    I have some more ideas for more detail work but that will have to wait till winter .
    P-38 Lightning Brotherhood #21
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  9. #859

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    RE: Nitroplanes 90

    Hi Guys,
    The wings of my P-38 are now finished and flight ready. I'm now making the bottom cover plate, for the nacelle main landing gear and servo's. I will be starting the removable stab next. The model does sit tail low and I'm happy with the outcome. My main landing gear does hang down below the nacelle's a bit...but I'll just have to live with it. I will not go to smaller main tires, and using 4" robart scale wheels now. I was surprised at how cramped everything got in the nacelles, but I was able to hook everything up, while I assembled the model for control testing. All worked as planed and my landing gear is able to retract with out any issues.

    The Super Monokote does not seem to be like it once was. It seems not to cover other colors like it did years ago...but it does seem to shrink up better.

    Both my wings, flight ready weight out to 3 lbs 8 oz.

    Soft Landings Always,
    Bobby of Maui
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  10. #860
    ram3500-RCU's Avatar
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    RE: Nitroplanes 90


    ORIGINAL: panhandler

    No worries i am relieved the mailman didn't make another one of his goofs.

    I have been thinking of addingΒ* some more scale apperance to the gear doorsΒ* on the inside , i think it would look great with the apperance of the metal frame work when there open .
    I was thinking of using .020 thick aluminum and punch the reliefe holes in them orΒ* form them from Β*2 oz. fiberglass .

    I have some more ideas for more detail work but that will have to wait till winter .
    I will do this on my next one as well. Especially the nose door. It is clearly visible most of the time.
    Cheers,
    Gary P. / use Steel Powder for ballast not lead. PM me for more information.

  11. #861
    ram3500-RCU's Avatar
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    RE: Nitroplanes 90


    ORIGINAL: Bob Paris

    Hi Guys,
    The wings of my P-38 are now finished and flight ready. I'm now making the bottom cover plate, for the nacelle main landing gear and servo's. I will be starting the removable stab next. The model does sit tail low and I'm happy with the outcome. My mail landing gear do hang down below the nacelle's a bit...but I'll just have to live with it. I will not go to smaller main tires, and using 4'' robart scale wheels now. I was surprised at how cramped everything got in the nacelles, but I was able to hook everything up, while I assembled the model for control testing. All worked as planed and my landing gear is able to retract with out any issues.

    The Super Monokote does not seem to be like it once was. It seems not to cover other colors like it did years ago...but it does seem to shrink up better.

    Both my wings, flight ready weight out to 3 lbs 8 oz.

    Soft Landings Always,
    Bobby of Maui
    Looking good Bob. Exciting times. It is really taking shape now.
    Cheers,
    Gary P. / use Steel Powder for ballast not lead. PM me for more information.

  12. #862

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    RE: Nitroplanes 90

    Hi Guys...
    I managed to re-make the pilot pod nose wheel cover plate...then make my nacelle wheel/servo cover plates too. I've still the port nacell to cut out and fit, but after this, its on to the removable stab.

    The springs on my Spring Air retracts seem to be weak, and I sent an e-mail to Spring Air about this. The Robart 4" wheels have a bit more weight to them, then the foam type...and I wonder if I'm asking to much of the 20# return spring, in each unit-with the weight of the struts and 4" wheel.

    I may be sending the three units in for new springs...I want them checked out and the springs replaced (I plan on doing this while I'm painting the airframe).

    I have also contacted Magnum R/C and see if I can get a set of Lado's installed onto my retracts. I have three sets of Lado's...and all have worked as published, near perfect. I will add 7~8 oz. with Lado's...but they work, work well and its a pug-in and forget system.

    I've enclosed a few pictures of the progress.

    Soft Landings Always,
    Bobby of Maui
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  13. #863

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    RE: Nitroplanes 90

    Hi Guys...
    I managed to finish the port cover plate...and I'm now offically into making my removable stab. I believe I've worked it out and I'll fill you in after I get it set up. It is just a beautiful day, mild winds all morning and in the low 80's.

    I charged up both my Rx batteries, and hooked everything up again. I then set the airframe onto my working table and got juiced again... : ) She sure is big and the need for an assembly frame is growing stronger.

    I cut and fit my canopy, but yet to finalize it...more work here. I've tried to order hatch laches...for my turbo covers...but every body seems to be out of stock.

    Soft Landings Always,
    Bobby of Maui
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  14. #864

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    RE: Nitroplanes 90

    Hi Gary
                  I'm trying to PM you, but not having any luck. I'm not sure if your back home yet. I'm just wondering what is happening with my kit.
    Or if anyone else can enlighten me on where Gary is that would be helpful.
    Thanks
    Barry in OZ

  15. #865
    ram3500-RCU's Avatar
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    RE: Nitroplanes 90


    ORIGINAL: kakariki

    Hi Gary
    Β*Β*Β*Β*Β*Β*Β*Β*Β*Β*Β*Β*Β* I'm trying to PM you, but not having any luck. I'm not sure if your back home yet. I'm just wondering what is happening with my kit.
    Or if anyone else can enlighten me on where Gary is that would be helpful.
    Thanks
    Barry in OZ
    I am here Barry. The PM system is not the most reliable thing I have found. Here is my e-mail. ram3500-rcu@juno.com
    Cheers,
    Gary P. / use Steel Powder for ballast not lead. PM me for more information.

  16. #866

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    RE: Nitroplanes 90

    Hi Gary
                 I have sent you an email.
    Thanks Barry

  17. #867

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    RE: Nitroplanes 90

    Ok Guys...
    Here is how I'm going to build up my removable horizontal tail section.

    The pictures show my Stab and Rudder. As you can see, the rudder is a split rudder, but connected in the aft end, of the movable serface. If you look closely, you will see the dark mark on the aft fuselage, just above the center part of the horizontal stab. This mark is where I will place my aircraft quality ply wood (no lite ply here), on both the top and bottom of the stab slot, cut into the aft fuselage (where the stab slides into), flush with the oposit inside of the fusaloge, but not through the oposite fusealoge balsa. I will cut and glue these pieces in, before I cut and mod the horizontal stab. I will need the full size horizontal tail to be used as a gluing guide, for my inserted plywood supports.

    I will use four 6/32 blind nuts and four allen headed screws, to hold down the stab. I will also notch the forward part of the removable stab, to lock it into both fuselage slots, forward end leading edge. The slot will key into the fuse by 3/8" wide x 1/2" long, on both sides and give me a constant hold down placement of the removable stabilizer. I will also replace the leading edge of the removable stab and part of both outer ends of the removable stab with good plywood (or bass wood), for strength and keep things here a bit more rigid. The out board secton of the stab and the full rudder will be permanitly attached to each nacelle.

    I will need to keep things a little loose when I assemble the bird, and not tighten down the wing, nacelles and pilot pod hold down plastic screws-until the stab is set into place.

    I will need to attach the elevator control rods (there will be two control rods to hook up on the removable stab)...but I'll do that with a ball link...easy to pop off and on...and even easier to replace if they get warn down.

    I'm going to be pulling out my stash of plywood and starting the modification today. It took me a while to figure out what I was going to do, and my main concern was to make the mod very simple and straight forward, without me building in, induced incidence problems. I wanted it strong, easy to always get the same placement and simple to assemble at the field. I decided that this is a stand off bird...but not to standoff scale...: )

    Soft Landings Always,
    Bobby of Maui
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  18. #868
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    RE: Nitroplanes 90

    Best solution I have seen for the stock wing setup to date Bob. I think it is will work well. I don't like taking controls loose all the time, but it is not the first time this has been done to a tail, just a little different to see it on a P-38.

    I still believe that the very best set up is the three piece wing and permanent tail assembly, but your solution should be fairly easy to do.

    Good job.
    Cheers,
    Gary P. / use Steel Powder for ballast not lead. PM me for more information.

  19. #869

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    RE: Nitroplanes 90

    Hi Guys,
    Well I'm well on my way to finishing the removable horizontal tail...but I managed to run into a problem. I managed to brake off the top part of the very end of the nacelle, where the stab slides into the nacelle aft secton. I was concerned with this before and covered it three layers of .6 of an oz. glass cloth. But it needed more strength...and though I bumped the end piece that broke it...I didn't bump it that hard. It surprised me at how weak this area was, and if you look close to how the aft part of the nacelle was built up, its easy to see why it broke.

    If you look at the first picture, you can see a dark line...this is where it broke. The next picture shows how I bent the 1/64" ply, with amonia and water...with the last, the job complete.

    So I used med. CA and glued the piece back on...making very sure all was straight and true. I then made a 1/64" ply wood doubler and this piece covered over the area that needed additional strength. I used epoxy to glue the doubler onto the fuse and this seemed to give me the strength I was looking for, for this part of the nacelle.

    I want you to know that I dreamed up several ways to do this...but settled on this one...for its simple and strong. The 1/64" ply is very strong, light and once painted and filled in proper, you will not notice it...( I hope ).

    Moving along...

    Soft Landings Always,
    Bobby of Maui
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  20. #870

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    RE: Nitroplanes 90

    Hi Guys...
    I managed to get the first part of my removable stab finished to day. I cut the four holding plates, sanded them down and cut my holes for them in the upper and lower aft nacelles. I then installed my blind nuts into the lower holding plates and epoxyed them onto the nacelles. It came out ok...not to intrusive to the eyes, and will do the job.

    I have to remove the covering on the tail feathers, inlay plywood where the bolts come threw the removable stab, and then recover the rudders and stab. Then...I will cut the stab and epoxy in the rudders and outboard horizontal stab peices.

    Moving right along here... : )

    Soft Landings Always,
    Bobby of Maui
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    AMA 15016
    Hellcat Brotherhood #21
    P-38 Brotherhood #51
    Say what you mean, mean what you say...and !#$& it if you can\'\'t take a joke.

  21. #871

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    RE: Nitroplanes 90


    ORIGINAL: ram3500-RCU


    ORIGINAL: panhandler

    Well there i go againg ,,, thinking to hard [img][/img]

    Thanks for the sugestion guys .

    I will go through my stash of hard wood and build them up.
    Glad to help.

    BTW, be on the look out for some parts.
    P-38 Lightning Brotherhood #21
    Custom Pipes rc

  22. #872

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    RE: Nitroplanes 90


    ORIGINAL: Bob Paris

    Hi Guys,
    Well I'm well on my way to finishing the removable horizontal tail...but I managed to run into a problem. I managed to brake off the top part of the very end of the nacelle, where the stab slides into the nacelle aft secton. I was concerned with this before and covered it three layers of .6 of an oz. glass cloth. But it needed more strength...and though I bumped the end piece that broke it...I didn't bump it that hard. It surprised me at how weak this area was, and if you look close to how the aft part of the nacelle was built up, its easy to see why it broke.

    If you look at the first picture, you can see a dark line...this is where it broke. The next picture shows how I bent the 1/64" ply, with amonia and water...with the last, the job complete.

    So I used med. CA and glued the piece back on...making very sure all was straight and true. I then made a 1/64" ply wood doubler and this piece covered over the area that needed additional strength. I used epoxy to glue the doubler onto the fuse and this seemed to give me the strength I was looking for, for this part of the nacelle.


    Moving along...

    Soft Landings Always,
    Bobby of Maui
    Hey Bob the same thing happened to me . I don't know why they stopped the sheeting in thisvunerable area . It split in the same spot . I took a close look at your fix and i like it . I am atempting the same fix as you but i am taking the 1/64" ply all the way back to the end of the nacelle this should give me even more much needed strength. At the moment i have it soaked and wraped around the nacelle. I am using Garrys idea of shrink wrap to form it in place . I will let it set for a few days and see how it forms . If all goes well i will use non expandeding gorilla glue and after it is set up then cut the slots for the stabs. I realy like your idea of the removable stab you should have no prob of fitting her in the back of that VW.

    Dan
    P-38 Lightning Brotherhood #21
    Custom Pipes rc

  23. #873

    Join Date
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    RE: Nitroplanes 90

    Hay guys,
    I managed to finish the work to make my horizontal stab removable. I've yet to cover it with Super Monokote, but thats next. I will not install the out board stabs or rudders, until I prepare my nacelles for paint...then install, finish sanding and paint the nacelles with the rudders and out board stabs glued in.

    I installed the stab checking everything, I then removed the covering, marked and then cut the stab into three pieces. I then cut and made my slotted thicker piece of ply for both sides, and inlayed a piece of 3/32 ply into and next to the slotted thicker ply. I fit every thing to each side and after this-glued the works with med. CA. I then covered the whole upper surface of the stab with 1/64' ply to tie it all together-with med. CA, then sanded it and fit it into the two nacelles. I doubled checked everything, then screwed the stab into place. The stab is tight, stiff and there is no side play anywhere.

    Next is the turbo covers...

    I've had thoughts on a three piece wing, vs. a two peice wing. There are advantiges in both...and problems with both. With a two piece wing...and the way I built up my P-38-you will have easy access to your fuel tank, and battery area. I can also easily access my engine servo, receiver and switching harness. On the down side...I have to assemble the airframe at the field...and I will have four pieces to put together, with six connections and four plastic bolts. I plan on assembling the wing and center pilot pod at home...with just the nacelles and stab to assemble at the field. With a three piece wing...you just have the out board wings to slide into place, and four servo connections. The only issues with a three piece wing that I can see, is there is no easy access to your radio and fuel tank area's, without major work. I wanted easy access to everything...and the only problem I see ahead for me, is taking the canapy on and off all the time. I will need to reinforce the plastic canopy some how, so it doesn't get damaged while assembling the model. There are no replacement canopies, and hanger rash sucks...but reality.

    Just a note...when I removed the covering on the stab, there were about a dozen places that needed glue...it was the covering that kept it all together. I just wonder what would have happened if I didn't mod my stab... ?

    Soft Landings Always,
    Bobby of Maui
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    AMA 15016
    Hellcat Brotherhood #21
    P-38 Brotherhood #51
    Say what you mean, mean what you say...and !#$& it if you can\'\'t take a joke.

  24. #874

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    RE: Nitroplanes 90

    Hi Guys,
    I've not done much this past ten day's, but I did manage to get my rudder covered. I've ordered black numbers from Tower and as soon as they arrive to me, I'll finish the rudder graphics.

    The Super Monokote I'm using now does not seem to be the same as I am used to using. It shrinks up better, but the colors do not cover over other colors as they once did before. I do like how it shrinks up now and it is more easy to get a good covering job now, but the old stuff seemed to be a bit stronger and the colors were more solid.

    Have a great weekend...
    Soft Landings Always,
    Bobby of Maui
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    AMA 15016
    Hellcat Brotherhood #21
    P-38 Brotherhood #51
    Say what you mean, mean what you say...and !#$& it if you can\'\'t take a joke.

  25. #875

    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    MorningtonVictoria, AUSTRALIA
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    62

    RE: Nitroplanes 90

    Hi Gary
                  I'm not hearing anything back from emailing you, I thought I'd try here as your here daily.
    Can you tell me if my kit has been sent and when?
    Thanks Barry


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