NEW KMP 95" B-25
#1077
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RE: NEW KMP 95
Hi, can you tell me where I can get replacement parts for my B25 Mitchell TBM? TBM does NOT sell replacement parts, would appreciate any and all info and/or help. Thank you
#1078
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Loveland, CO
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#1080
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RE: NEW KMP 95
The re-furb of Betty´s Dream was completed over the "winter".
This included new CJM Gear (Thanks Tomas @ vqwarbirds.com !) and a cosmetic freshening.
We flew her at a crawfish boil in April and she was beautiful in the air and simple to fly.
One interesting little bit of news is that the full-scale Dream has been purchased and is now based in Houston @ Ellington Field. I hope to take my Dream over to have a Photo session with mamma!
Regards,
Wally
This included new CJM Gear (Thanks Tomas @ vqwarbirds.com !) and a cosmetic freshening.
We flew her at a crawfish boil in April and she was beautiful in the air and simple to fly.
One interesting little bit of news is that the full-scale Dream has been purchased and is now based in Houston @ Ellington Field. I hope to take my Dream over to have a Photo session with mamma!
Regards,
Wally
#1081
RE: NEW KMP 95
ORIGINAL: gunny11
Any updates?
Mine is coming. Back ordered from last July at TBM.
Gunny
Any updates?
Mine is coming. Back ordered from last July at TBM.
Gunny
#1082
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: fort collins,
CO
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RE: NEW KMP 95
Glad to see continued interest in this plane. Mine is entering its 3rd flying season. She was upgraded last year with Robart retracts and brakes. I used the heavy duty gear . The brakes work great both for stopping as well as running up the engines to half throttle before starting the takeoff role.
#1083
RE: NEW KMP 95
eldher13-
I am making Doolittle's plane. I have DLE 20's for it and Wingspan Models bomb drop. I just finished cutting out the waist gunner windows and fiberglassing the holes closed. I am also repainting the entire plane and I will have to cut the tail off to install the correct turret. I am planning on Century Jet retracts with robart wheels and brakes.
Do you mind telling me what your setup is? Also should I fiberglass or add wood to the gear mounts?
Just curious also if there is a better setup for the wings than using rubber bands to secure them. I was considering using nylon thumbscrews like the 3D planes accessed through the bottom of the nacelles. Another idea is to glue the wing tubes into the wings and then slide them into the nacelle and drill and tap the tube for a bolt. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Tim
I am making Doolittle's plane. I have DLE 20's for it and Wingspan Models bomb drop. I just finished cutting out the waist gunner windows and fiberglassing the holes closed. I am also repainting the entire plane and I will have to cut the tail off to install the correct turret. I am planning on Century Jet retracts with robart wheels and brakes.
Do you mind telling me what your setup is? Also should I fiberglass or add wood to the gear mounts?
Just curious also if there is a better setup for the wings than using rubber bands to secure them. I was considering using nylon thumbscrews like the 3D planes accessed through the bottom of the nacelles. Another idea is to glue the wing tubes into the wings and then slide them into the nacelle and drill and tap the tube for a bolt. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Tim
#1084
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: fort collins,
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RE: NEW KMP 95
tvans55,
I have installed the folling Robart gear:
- 635RS 90 Degree Heavy Duty Mains
- Robart Straight RoboStrut 1/2"
- Disc Brakes For 4" - 4 1/2" Brake Ready Aluminum Wheels (pr.) (pt# 140)
- 4 1/2" Brake Ready Aluminum Wheels
- 641RS nose wheel retract, 110 degree
- RoboStrut 440 (7/16") for the nose wheel
- I am using the original ESM nose wheel
The 635RS is a beefy retract and looks excellant with the 1/2" struts. However, some of the existing mounting ply needs to be cut away as these retracts are larger than the ESM. There is more than enough room, though, for these retracts.
The existing ply mounts should, IMHO, be strengthened regardless of which retracts you use. This is easily done. Looking closely in the nacell retract bay you will note that there are 2 parallel ply plates. The gear screws into the top one. I cut hardwood blocks to fit between the 2 ply plates and epoxied them in. Then I used 3/4" by wood screws to hold the retracts in.
I have installed the folling Robart gear:
- 635RS 90 Degree Heavy Duty Mains
- Robart Straight RoboStrut 1/2"
- Disc Brakes For 4" - 4 1/2" Brake Ready Aluminum Wheels (pr.) (pt# 140)
- 4 1/2" Brake Ready Aluminum Wheels
- 641RS nose wheel retract, 110 degree
- RoboStrut 440 (7/16") for the nose wheel
- I am using the original ESM nose wheel
The 635RS is a beefy retract and looks excellant with the 1/2" struts. However, some of the existing mounting ply needs to be cut away as these retracts are larger than the ESM. There is more than enough room, though, for these retracts.
The existing ply mounts should, IMHO, be strengthened regardless of which retracts you use. This is easily done. Looking closely in the nacell retract bay you will note that there are 2 parallel ply plates. The gear screws into the top one. I cut hardwood blocks to fit between the 2 ply plates and epoxied them in. Then I used 3/4" by wood screws to hold the retracts in.
#1085
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: fort collins,
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RE: NEW KMP 95
tevans55,
also meant to comment on securing the outer wing panels. I agree, you don't want to use the rubber bands. Generally people seem to be glueing the tube into the outer wing panel and then securing that. The best method I've seen is to glue a piece of threaded rod into the wing panel and drill a hole in the nacel. Then put a wing nut on the inside. Best to beef up the fiberglass where the rod comes through. I think this is much like your thumb screw idea and should work just fine.
also meant to comment on securing the outer wing panels. I agree, you don't want to use the rubber bands. Generally people seem to be glueing the tube into the outer wing panel and then securing that. The best method I've seen is to glue a piece of threaded rod into the wing panel and drill a hole in the nacel. Then put a wing nut on the inside. Best to beef up the fiberglass where the rod comes through. I think this is much like your thumb screw idea and should work just fine.
#1086
RE: NEW KMP 95
Thanks Eldher13. Now that the waist windows are closed up I have to get some paint to start painting. I was surprised at how easy the decals covered using just a sandable primer and a little wet sanding.
#1087
RE: NEW KMP 95
ORIGINAL: eldher13
The best method I've seen is to glue a piece of threaded rod into the wing panel and drill a hole in the nacel. Then put a wing nut on the inside.
The best method I've seen is to glue a piece of threaded rod into the wing panel and drill a hole in the nacel. Then put a wing nut on the inside.
tevan I used 1/2" threaded rod from home depot. You can afix the wing nut thru the gear "door" area
#1088
RE: NEW KMP 95
ORIGINAL: kahloq
tevan I used 1/2'' threaded rod from home depot. You can afix the wing nut thru the gear ''door'' area
ORIGINAL: eldher13
The best method I've seen is to glue a piece of threaded rod into the wing panel and drill a hole in the nacel. Then put a wing nut on the inside.
The best method I've seen is to glue a piece of threaded rod into the wing panel and drill a hole in the nacel. Then put a wing nut on the inside.
tevan I used 1/2'' threaded rod from home depot. You can afix the wing nut thru the gear ''door'' area
Also, does anyone know where I can purchase a "B" model tail turret for this plane. I can make a plug and form one but If someone makes them I would like to purchase. It looks like the 101" Ziroli might fit...does anyone know for sure. The Wing Manuf. tail cone does not fit. Thanks for any assistance.
#1089
RE: NEW KMP 95
ORIGINAL: tevans55
Are you attaching the threaded rod about 2/3 back from the leading edge? That's where it looks like you can get your hands on it.
ORIGINAL: kahloq
tevan I used 1/2'' threaded rod from home depot. You can afix the wing nut thru the gear ''door'' area
ORIGINAL: eldher13
The best method I've seen is to glue a piece of threaded rod into the wing panel and drill a hole in the nacel. Then put a wing nut on the inside.
The best method I've seen is to glue a piece of threaded rod into the wing panel and drill a hole in the nacel. Then put a wing nut on the inside.
tevan I used 1/2'' threaded rod from home depot. You can afix the wing nut thru the gear ''door'' area
#1091
RE: NEW KMP 95
ORIGINAL: tevans55
Thanks Kahlog...that would be very helpful.
Thanks Kahlog...that would be very helpful.
As you can see in the pics....I have alignment pins as well as the 1/4" threaded rod. The nylon washer and wing nut are mounted obviously once the wing is slide in against the nacelle. They can be put in position with the plane sitting on its own wheels. Takes a bit of lying on the ground.....unless the plane is sitting on a work table at the field...we have several so I actually dont have to lie on the ground.... if you dont want to flip the plane over to do it....but not hard at all.
I did it this way specifially to avoid trying to drill and tap the aluminum rod and also avoid flipping the plane over since mine is 32 pounds
#1092
RE: NEW KMP 95
kahlog-
Thanks for the photo. That helps alot. I am assuming that rod is a bolt that has been cut off and inserted through a drilled hole in the rib and epoxied into place. Did you reinforce the back side of that rib?
Thanks for your help.
Thanks for the photo. That helps alot. I am assuming that rod is a bolt that has been cut off and inserted through a drilled hole in the rib and epoxied into place. Did you reinforce the back side of that rib?
Thanks for your help.
#1093
RE: NEW KMP 95
ORIGINAL: tevans55
kahlog-
Thanks for the photo. That helps alot. I am assuming that rod is a bolt that has been cut off and inserted through a drilled hole in the rib and epoxied into place. Did you reinforce the back side of that rib?
Thanks for your help.
kahlog-
Thanks for the photo. That helps alot. I am assuming that rod is a bolt that has been cut off and inserted through a drilled hole in the rib and epoxied into place. Did you reinforce the back side of that rib?
Thanks for your help.
Link is to an example with pic on homedepot's website:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053
#1094
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Location: Republic, MO
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RE: NEW KMP 95
Hi Guys , Is this plane still available from KMP, I would love to get one and start putting it together, am sorry I am a year late in contactacting Spaul813 since I am located in sothwest Missouri and perhaps not that far from him. Thanks Tim
#1095
RE: NEW KMP 95
Kahlog-
Thanks again for the help. I went to Lowe's and picked up the rod, washers and thumb screw. It looks like there is about a 1/2" block behind the spot you drilled into so I think I've got it now.
Nuts4planes-
This plane is available from Arfpros.com. Don't wait to purchase...I waited 8 months from the time I ordered...Something to do with a slow boat from China.
Thanks again for the help. I went to Lowe's and picked up the rod, washers and thumb screw. It looks like there is about a 1/2" block behind the spot you drilled into so I think I've got it now.
Nuts4planes-
This plane is available from Arfpros.com. Don't wait to purchase...I waited 8 months from the time I ordered...Something to do with a slow boat from China.
#1096
RE: NEW KMP 95
ORIGINAL: Nuts4planes
Hi Guys , Is this plane still available from KMP, I would love to get one and start putting it together, am sorry I am a year late in contactacting Spaul813 since I am located in sothwest Missouri and perhaps not that far from him. Thanks Tim
Hi Guys , Is this plane still available from KMP, I would love to get one and start putting it together, am sorry I am a year late in contactacting Spaul813 since I am located in sothwest Missouri and perhaps not that far from him. Thanks Tim
http://www.arfpromodelplanes.com/
#1097
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: fort collins,
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RE: NEW KMP 95
Here's another method for holding the wing on, done by one of the members of our club.
"The rod extends about 2" from the outer wing panel. Then the wood block is sized and shaped appropriately to fit into the nacelle. The extra width allows the wire clip to be inserted or removed through the wheel well opening."
See the photos for detail.
"The rod extends about 2" from the outer wing panel. Then the wood block is sized and shaped appropriately to fit into the nacelle. The extra width allows the wire clip to be inserted or removed through the wheel well opening."
See the photos for detail.