"Nosen Cessna 310 Club"
03-05-2012, 02:37 PM
#1076
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RE: RE:
SWEET!!! 
I glued the rest of the ply doublers to the ribs this morning after work, so the left wing panel is ready for glueing together. Once that's finished, I will upload some more pictures.
I glued the rest of the ply doublers to the ribs this morning after work, so the left wing panel is ready for glueing together. Once that's finished, I will upload some more pictures.
03-05-2012, 10:19 PM
#1078
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RE: RE:
Hello All
I was wondering, Does anyone out there is Nosen Land have a set of cowls
They do not intend to use? My 310 is close and I can use my cowls for now
But would like to get a new set as the one's I have are cut up pretty good
by haveing multiple size motors mounted. Let Me know.
Thanks Cliff
I was wondering, Does anyone out there is Nosen Land have a set of cowls
They do not intend to use? My 310 is close and I can use my cowls for now
But would like to get a new set as the one's I have are cut up pretty good
by haveing multiple size motors mounted. Let Me know.
Thanks Cliff
03-05-2012, 11:12 PM
#1079
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Location: Indian Trail,
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RE: RE:
ORIGINAL: Warbirdguy
bps,
What airfoil did that come out to be?
WBG
bps,
What airfoil did that come out to be?
WBG
Any one switch to a diffrent one like a Clark-YH, or a NACA-2013?
03-06-2012, 03:04 AM
#1080
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RE: RE:
ORIGINAL: Warbirdguy
bps,
What airfoil did that come out to be?
WBG
bps,
What airfoil did that come out to be?
WBG
03-06-2012, 03:25 AM
#1081
Thread Starter
RE: RE:
ORIGINAL: Clavin01
Hello All
I was wondering, Does anyone out there is Nosen Land have a set of cowls
They do not intend to use? My 310 is close and I can use my cowls for now
But would like to get a new set as the one's I have are cut up pretty good
by haveing multiple size motors mounted. Let Me know.
Thanks Cliff
Hello All
I was wondering, Does anyone out there is Nosen Land have a set of cowls
They do not intend to use? My 310 is close and I can use my cowls for now
But would like to get a new set as the one's I have are cut up pretty good
by haveing multiple size motors mounted. Let Me know.
Thanks Cliff
Give Greg @ G & L Hobbies a call he should be able to ship you a set out fairly quickly
931 528-9312. or you might call Fiberglass Specialties, 479 359-2429, they both have
cowls for the Nosen Cessna 310 available.
http://www.fiberglassspecialtiesinc.com/catalog.htm
http://www.glhobbies.com/acessories/accessories.html
Greg shows a set with the nacelles and tips but I'm fairly sure he will sell just the cowls.........
Bill D.
03-06-2012, 06:15 PM
#1082
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Wartrace,
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RE: RE:
I have done some research and this is what I came up with. The Cessna 310 used a NACA 23018 for the root and a NACA 23015 for the tip. Here is what the root would look like, profile wise. You be the judge on how close it is 
03-07-2012, 05:59 AM
#1085
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RE: RE:
Washout! What's that? Just kidding... I wasnt planning on any washout myself since there is no mention of it in the instructions. Been thinking about the flaps though and wondering how I might do them. I have to find some pictures of the full scale flaps and try to make them somewhat scale as far as size goes, but I'm thinking of a couple ways of attachment and hinge points. Nothing to share as of yet, but if I come up with something interesting I will post pics. I have one more night at work and then I can get back to work on the left wing panel...
03-07-2012, 06:33 AM
#1086
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RE: RE:
On most designs that use a tapered wing, generally speaking, there is no washout. The tapered design is the washout. But, if I was going to put some in reguardless, I would probably do 1 to 2 deg and no more.
About the flap. Im not sure how the full size is. Guess I need to make a trip to the airport lol.
Now, just for fun, can any of you identify this baby? There are hints all over it if you look closely.
About the flap. Im not sure how the full size is. Guess I need to make a trip to the airport lol.
Now, just for fun, can any of you identify this baby? There are hints all over it if you look closely.
03-07-2012, 12:00 PM
#1089
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RE: RE:
Just thought of something. Those huge tip tanks. What will washout do with them? Do you tilt them 2 degrees also? If you don't would they cancel out the wasout? Better head over to the jet forums and find out what the T-33 pilots know about oversize tip tanks.
03-07-2012, 03:38 PM
#1090
My Feedback: (28)
RE: RE:
I was looking at my glass fuse over the weekend. To make it really look nice ,I want to make some vacuum form molds for
the front and side windows. I assume I have to make a male mold first, then the female. What products can I use to make a quick mold? Your comments and suggestion will be helpfull.
Thanks
Dennis
the front and side windows. I assume I have to make a male mold first, then the female. What products can I use to make a quick mold? Your comments and suggestion will be helpfull.
Thanks
Dennis
03-07-2012, 04:10 PM
#1091
Thread Starter
RE: RE:
ORIGINAL: Thisstrangeengine
Washout! What's that? Just kidding... I wasnt planning on any washout myself since there is no mention of it in the instructions. Been thinking about the flaps though and wondering how I might do them. I have to find some pictures of the full scale flaps and try to make them somewhat scale as far as size goes, but I'm thinking of a couple ways of attachment and hinge points. Nothing to share as of yet, but if I come up with something interesting I will post pics. I have one more night at work and then I can get back to work on the left wing panel...
Washout! What's that? Just kidding... I wasnt planning on any washout myself since there is no mention of it in the instructions. Been thinking about the flaps though and wondering how I might do them. I have to find some pictures of the full scale flaps and try to make them somewhat scale as far as size goes, but I'm thinking of a couple ways of attachment and hinge points. Nothing to share as of yet, but if I come up with something interesting I will post pics. I have one more night at work and then I can get back to work on the left wing panel...
Send TooLow a PM he owns a full size Cessna 310 H model I believe, he will tell you all about the flaps.
03-08-2012, 01:50 AM
#1093
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RE: RE:
ORIGINAL: dwhorn
I was looking at my glass fuse over the weekend. To make it really look nice ,I want to make some vacuum form molds for
the front and side windows. I assume I have to make a male mold first, then the female. What products can I use to make a quick mold? Your comments and suggestion will be helpfull.
Thanks
Dennis
I was looking at my glass fuse over the weekend. To make it really look nice ,I want to make some vacuum form molds for
the front and side windows. I assume I have to make a male mold first, then the female. What products can I use to make a quick mold? Your comments and suggestion will be helpfull.
Thanks
Dennis
If these windows are not very deep say 1/4" or less you can just do a male mold. Would make your job much easier. The mold needs to be polished to remove any scratches and imperfections that will just transfer over to the clear plastic. Most use PETG. I have been considering this fuse option as well but wanted windows as you do. At one time I owned a small industrial vac forming business and our shop built our own tools (molds) using different materials for different jobs. At the temps your going to form at and considering the thickness of the material you have a lot of options including plastic body filler.
I considered making windows using the following method.
1) Make an outside mold of the window areas of the fiberglass fuse. This temporary mold could be made using plaster.
2) Remove this female mold from the fuse and using a material like modelers clay, abs sheet or??? make a boarder around the window mold(s) maybe 1/8" deep or however deep you need the final window to be to fit the fuse properly.
3) Ready to use this temp female mold to cast the male molds your parts will be made from. Using the casting material of your choice fill this female mold with casting material and when it dries you have your mold! Do not forget to use a good mold release at each step, you do not want to bond parts together!
Your mold material could be plastic body filler, plaster, casting resin, or any of the professional casting materials depending upon how much you plan to use your molds. If you have problems with clairity I have even read where others have pulled a very thin plastic over the mold, used a lot of mold release and then made a final pull using the proper material. You need to use a great mold release for this though.
Hope this helps, others may have better ideas!
03-08-2012, 01:53 AM
#1094
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RE: RE:
ORIGINAL: slevin1
Hello fellow 310'ers. I am selling my NIB Bud Nosen Cessna 310 kit which I just posted today on RCU.
Saul
Hello fellow 310'ers. I am selling my NIB Bud Nosen Cessna 310 kit which I just posted today on RCU.
Saul
]
03-08-2012, 03:19 AM
#1097
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RE: RE:
BPS,
I two have a 310 for sale just have not had time to put it on RCU. this one is add rec and batts and go fly. look at my profile and it is the white with blue stripes.
Allen
I two have a 310 for sale just have not had time to put it on RCU. this one is add rec and batts and go fly. look at my profile and it is the white with blue stripes.
Allen
03-08-2012, 03:30 AM
#1099
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RE: RE:
ORIGINAL: handyman_alw_
BPS,
I two have a 310 for sale just have not had time to put it on RCU. this one is add rec and batts and go fly. look at my profile and it is the white with blue stripes.
Allen
BPS,
I two have a 310 for sale just have not had time to put it on RCU. this one is add rec and batts and go fly. look at my profile and it is the white with blue stripes.
Allen
03-08-2012, 04:51 AM
#1100
My Feedback: (28)
RE: RE:
ORIGINAL: bps
If these windows are not very deep say 1/4'' or less you can just do a male mold. Would make your job much easier. The mold needs to be polished to remove any scratches and imperfections that will just transfer over to the clear plastic. Most use PETG. I have been considering this fuse option as well but wanted windows as you do. At one time I owned a small industrial vac forming business and our shop built our own tools (molds) using different materials for different jobs. At the temps your going to form at and considering the thickness of the material you have a lot of options including plastic body filler.
I considered making windows using the following method.
1) Make an outside mold of the window areas of the fiberglass fuse. This temporary mold could be made using plaster.
2) Remove this female mold from the fuse and using a material like modelers clay, abs sheet or??? make a boarder around the window mold(s) maybe 1/8'' deep or however deep you need the final window to be to fit the fuse properly.
3) Ready to use this temp female mold to cast the male molds your parts will be made from. Using the casting material of your choice fill this female mold with casting material and when it dries you have your mold! Do not forget to use a good mold release at each step, you do not want to bond parts together!
Your mold material could be plastic body filler, plaster, casting resin, or any of the professional casting materials depending upon how much you plan to use your molds. If you have problems with clairity I have even read where others have pulled a very thin plastic over the mold, used a lot of mold release and then made a final pull using the proper material. You need to use a great mold release for this though.
Hope this helps, others may have better ideas!
ORIGINAL: dwhorn
I was looking at my glass fuse over the weekend. To make it really look nice ,I want to make some vacuum form molds for
the front and side windows. I assume I have to make a male mold first, then the female. What products can I use to make a quick mold? Your comments and suggestion will be helpfull.
Thanks
Dennis
I was looking at my glass fuse over the weekend. To make it really look nice ,I want to make some vacuum form molds for
the front and side windows. I assume I have to make a male mold first, then the female. What products can I use to make a quick mold? Your comments and suggestion will be helpfull.
Thanks
Dennis
If these windows are not very deep say 1/4'' or less you can just do a male mold. Would make your job much easier. The mold needs to be polished to remove any scratches and imperfections that will just transfer over to the clear plastic. Most use PETG. I have been considering this fuse option as well but wanted windows as you do. At one time I owned a small industrial vac forming business and our shop built our own tools (molds) using different materials for different jobs. At the temps your going to form at and considering the thickness of the material you have a lot of options including plastic body filler.
I considered making windows using the following method.
1) Make an outside mold of the window areas of the fiberglass fuse. This temporary mold could be made using plaster.
2) Remove this female mold from the fuse and using a material like modelers clay, abs sheet or??? make a boarder around the window mold(s) maybe 1/8'' deep or however deep you need the final window to be to fit the fuse properly.
3) Ready to use this temp female mold to cast the male molds your parts will be made from. Using the casting material of your choice fill this female mold with casting material and when it dries you have your mold! Do not forget to use a good mold release at each step, you do not want to bond parts together!
Your mold material could be plastic body filler, plaster, casting resin, or any of the professional casting materials depending upon how much you plan to use your molds. If you have problems with clairity I have even read where others have pulled a very thin plastic over the mold, used a lot of mold release and then made a final pull using the proper material. You need to use a great mold release for this though.
Hope this helps, others may have better ideas!
Thanks for your help!
Dennis