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  1. #1076
    Thisstrangeengine's Avatar
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    RE: RE:

    SWEET!!!
    I glued the rest of the ply doublers to the ribs this morning after work, so the left wing panel is ready for glueing together. Once that's finished, I will upload some more pictures.
    Nosen Cessna 310 Club Member #54

  2. #1077
    Warbirdguy's Avatar
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    RE: RE:

    bps,

    What airfoil did that come out to be?

    WBG
    Spitfire Brotherhood member #23

  3. #1078
    Clavin01's Avatar
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    RE: RE:

    Hello All
    I was wondering, Does anyone out there is Nosen Land have a set of cowls
    They do not intend to use? My 310 is close and I can use my cowls for now
    But would like to get a new set as the one's I have are cut up pretty good
    by haveing multiple size motors mounted. Let Me know.
    Thanks Cliff
    Nosen Cessna 310 Club #56

  4. #1079
    AmishWarlord's Avatar
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    RE: RE:


    ORIGINAL: Warbirdguy

    bps,

    What airfoil did that come out to be?

    WBG
    Yeah what airfiol is one this thing? NACA 2412?

    Any one switch to a diffrent one like a Clark-YH, or a NACA-2013?

  5. #1080
    bps's Avatar
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    RE: RE:


    ORIGINAL: Warbirdguy

    bps,

    What airfoil did that come out to be?

    WBG
    I have no idea what airfoil Bud Nosen used on this plane. This rib is just drawn to best reflect the plans side view, and the rest of the ribs to match the parts sheet. All of the notches in the ribs are now sized correctly and the entire rib profile cleaned up a bit. Still finishing up on this part.
    JEB
    Giant Scale P-47, Knight Twister, 33% BD-8, 40% Gee Bee Z, 25% Dr1, 25% Clip Wing Cub, #45 Bud Nosen 310 Club

  6. #1081
    Bill Diedrich's Avatar
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    RE: RE:


    ORIGINAL: Clavin01

    Hello All
    I was wondering, Does anyone out there is Nosen Land have a set of cowls
    They do not intend to use? My 310 is close and I can use my cowls for now
    But would like to get a new set as the one's I have are cut up pretty good
    by haveing multiple size motors mounted. Let Me know.
    Thanks Cliff

    Give Greg @ G & L Hobbies a call he should be able to ship you a set out fairly quickly
    931 528-9312. or you might call Fiberglass Specialties, 479 359-2429, they both have
    cowls for the Nosen Cessna 310 available.

    http://www.fiberglassspecialtiesinc.com/catalog.htm

    http://www.glhobbies.com/acessories/accessories.html

    Greg shows a set with the nacelles and tips but I'm fairly sure he will sell just the cowls.........

    Bill D.
    Founder \"Nosen Cessna 310 Club\"
    Waco Brotherhood # 43
    P-39 Brotherhood # 5

  7. #1082
    Warbirdguy's Avatar
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    RE: RE:

    I have done some research and this is what I came up with. The Cessna 310 used a NACA 23018 for the root and a NACA 23015 for the tip. Here is what the root would look like, profile wise. You be the judge on how close it is

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Spitfire Brotherhood member #23

  8. #1083
    AmishWarlord's Avatar
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    RE: RE:

    LOL thats funny. I just used the NACA 23018 on the plane I'm building now.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #1084
    bps's Avatar
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    RE:

    Nice work on the research. How much washout if any are you guys planning?
    JEB
    Giant Scale P-47, Knight Twister, 33% BD-8, 40% Gee Bee Z, 25% Dr1, 25% Clip Wing Cub, #45 Bud Nosen 310 Club

  10. #1085
    Thisstrangeengine's Avatar
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    RE: RE:

    Washout! What's that? Just kidding... I wasnt planning on any washout myself since there is no mention of it in the instructions. Been thinking about the flaps though and wondering how I might do them. I have to find some pictures of the full scale flaps and try to make them somewhat scale as far as size goes, but I'm thinking of a couple ways of attachment and hinge points. Nothing to share as of yet, but if I come up with something interesting I will post pics. I have one more night at work and then I can get back to work on the left wing panel...
    Nosen Cessna 310 Club Member #54

  11. #1086
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    RE: RE:

    On most designs that use a tapered wing, generally speaking, there is no washout. The tapered design is the washout. But, if I was going to put some in reguardless, I would probably do 1 to 2 deg and no more.

    About the flap. Im not sure how the full size is. Guess I need to make a trip to the airport lol.

    Now, just for fun, can any of you identify this baby? There are hints all over it if you look closely.
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    Spitfire Brotherhood member #23

  12. #1087
    bps's Avatar
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    RE:

    That was my thinking on the washout as well. Thanks for the input.
    JEB
    Giant Scale P-47, Knight Twister, 33% BD-8, 40% Gee Bee Z, 25% Dr1, 25% Clip Wing Cub, #45 Bud Nosen 310 Club

  13. #1088
    bps's Avatar
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    RE:

    What are most folks using for wing tubes and sleeves and where is the best place to purchase? Thanks
    JEB
    Giant Scale P-47, Knight Twister, 33% BD-8, 40% Gee Bee Z, 25% Dr1, 25% Clip Wing Cub, #45 Bud Nosen 310 Club

  14. #1089
    AmishWarlord's Avatar
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    RE: RE:

    Just thought of something. Those huge tip tanks. What will washout do with them? Do you tilt them 2 degrees also? If you don't would they cancel out the wasout? Better head over to the jet forums and find out what the T-33 pilots know about oversize tip tanks.

  15. #1090

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    RE: RE:

    I was looking at my glass fuse over the weekend. To make it really look nice ,I want to make some vacuum form molds for
    the front and side windows. I assume I have to make a male mold first, then the female. What products can I use to make a quick mold? Your comments and suggestion will be helpfull.

    Thanks

    Dennis

  16. #1091
    Bill Diedrich's Avatar
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    RE: RE:


    ORIGINAL: Thisstrangeengine

    Washout! What's that? Just kidding... I wasnt planning on any washout myself since there is no mention of it in the instructions. Been thinking about the flaps though and wondering how I might do them. I have to find some pictures of the full scale flaps and try to make them somewhat scale as far as size goes, but I'm thinking of a couple ways of attachment and hinge points. Nothing to share as of yet, but if I come up with something interesting I will post pics. I have one more night at work and then I can get back to work on the left wing panel...

    Send TooLow a PM he owns a full size Cessna 310 H model I believe, he will tell you all about the flaps.
    Founder \"Nosen Cessna 310 Club\"
    Waco Brotherhood # 43
    P-39 Brotherhood # 5

  17. #1092

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    RE:

    Hello fellow 310'ers. I am selling my NIB Bud Nosen Cessna 310 kit which I just posted today on RCU.

    Saul

  18. #1093
    bps's Avatar
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    RE: RE:


    ORIGINAL: dwhorn

    I was looking at my glass fuse over the weekend. To make it really look nice ,I want to make some vacuum form molds for
    the front and side windows. I assume I have to make a male mold first, then the female. What products can I use to make a quick mold? Your comments and suggestion will be helpfull.

    Thanks

    Dennis

    If these windows are not very deep say 1/4" or less you can just do a male mold. Would make your job much easier. The mold needs to be polished to remove any scratches and imperfections that will just transfer over to the clear plastic. Most use PETG. I have been considering this fuse option as well but wanted windows as you do. At one time I owned a small industrial vac forming business and our shop built our own tools (molds) using different materials for different jobs. At the temps your going to form at and considering the thickness of the material you have a lot of options including plastic body filler.

    I considered making windows using the following method.
    1) Make an outside mold of the window areas of the fiberglass fuse. This temporary mold could be made using plaster.
    2) Remove this female mold from the fuse and using a material like modelers clay, abs sheet or??? make a boarder around the window mold(s) maybe 1/8" deep or however deep you need the final window to be to fit the fuse properly.
    3) Ready to use this temp female mold to cast the male molds your parts will be made from. Using the casting material of your choice fill this female mold with casting material and when it dries you have your mold! Do not forget to use a good mold release at each step, you do not want to bond parts together!

    Your mold material could be plastic body filler, plaster, casting resin, or any of the professional casting materials depending upon how much you plan to use your molds. If you have problems with clairity I have even read where others have pulled a very thin plastic over the mold, used a lot of mold release and then made a final pull using the proper material. You need to use a great mold release for this though.

    Hope this helps, others may have better ideas!
    JEB
    Giant Scale P-47, Knight Twister, 33% BD-8, 40% Gee Bee Z, 25% Dr1, 25% Clip Wing Cub, #45 Bud Nosen 310 Club

  19. #1094
    bps's Avatar
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    RE: RE:


    ORIGINAL: slevin1

    Hello fellow 310'ers. I am selling my NIB Bud Nosen Cessna 310 kit which I just posted today on RCU.

    Saul
    I looked but did not see the ad[&o]
    JEB
    Giant Scale P-47, Knight Twister, 33% BD-8, 40% Gee Bee Z, 25% Dr1, 25% Clip Wing Cub, #45 Bud Nosen 310 Club

  20. #1095
    Clavin01's Avatar
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    RE: RE:

    hey bps

    The nosen 310 has sold already. []
    Nosen Cessna 310 Club #56

  21. #1096
    bps's Avatar
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    RE:

    WOW! Congrats
    JEB
    Giant Scale P-47, Knight Twister, 33% BD-8, 40% Gee Bee Z, 25% Dr1, 25% Clip Wing Cub, #45 Bud Nosen 310 Club

  22. #1097
    handyman_alw_'s Avatar
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    RE: RE:

    BPS,

    I two have a 310 for sale just have not had time to put it on RCU. this one is add rec and batts and go fly. look at my profile and it is the white with blue stripes.

    Allen
    Nosen 310 Club #5
    You Don\'\'t have to be rich to fly a 310 but it sure helps,and one is never enough.

  23. #1098

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    RE:

    Sorry guys. I posted it at 6pm EST and sold it by 9pm EST.


    I am bowing out of the club. Take care.

    Saul

  24. #1099
    bps's Avatar
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    RE: RE:


    ORIGINAL: handyman_alw_

    BPS,

    I two have a 310 for sale just have not had time to put it on RCU. this one is add rec and batts and go fly. look at my profile and it is the white with blue stripes.

    Allen
    Thanks Allen, nice plane but I want to build it myself. Kinda old school in that I enjoy building.
    JEB
    Giant Scale P-47, Knight Twister, 33% BD-8, 40% Gee Bee Z, 25% Dr1, 25% Clip Wing Cub, #45 Bud Nosen 310 Club

  25. #1100

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    RE: RE:


    ORIGINAL: bps


    ORIGINAL: dwhorn

    I was looking at my glass fuse over the weekend. To make it really look nice ,I want to make some vacuum form molds for
    the front and side windows. I assume I have to make a male mold first, then the female. What products can I use to make a quick mold? Your comments and suggestion will be helpfull.

    Thanks

    Dennis

    If these windows are not very deep say 1/4'' or less you can just do a male mold. Would make your job much easier. The mold needs to be polished to remove any scratches and imperfections that will just transfer over to the clear plastic. Most use PETG. I have been considering this fuse option as well but wanted windows as you do. At one time I owned a small industrial vac forming business and our shop built our own tools (molds) using different materials for different jobs. At the temps your going to form at and considering the thickness of the material you have a lot of options including plastic body filler.

    I considered making windows using the following method.
    1) Make an outside mold of the window areas of the fiberglass fuse. This temporary mold could be made using plaster.
    2) Remove this female mold from the fuse and using a material like modelers clay, abs sheet or??? make a boarder around the window mold(s) maybe 1/8'' deep or however deep you need the final window to be to fit the fuse properly.
    3) Ready to use this temp female mold to cast the male molds your parts will be made from. Using the casting material of your choice fill this female mold with casting material and when it dries you have your mold! Do not forget to use a good mold release at each step, you do not want to bond parts together!

    Your mold material could be plastic body filler, plaster, casting resin, or any of the professional casting materials depending upon how much you plan to use your molds. If you have problems with clairity I have even read where others have pulled a very thin plastic over the mold, used a lot of mold release and then made a final pull using the proper material. You need to use a great mold release for this though.

    Hope this helps, others may have better ideas!

    Thanks for your help!

    Dennis



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