My take on the Skidoo MXZ800 New Bright
#1
My take on the Skidoo MXZ800 New Bright
Ok, I have done extensive reading on other posts about this MXZ 800 and decided to go ahead and start this project. I bought this off from Ebay used, working in perfect condition. ( That didnt stay that way very long, opened the box , ran it about 10 feet, laughed and said how lame! ) I started with what every one else has done and gutted the old electronics and drive system out. Me being a machinist for over 25+ years helps alot in the way I approached this build.
The first hurdle I went after was the front suspension. Here I built a 2 pc alum clamp to tie the radius rod's to the belly pan, here I noticed everyone else had drilled holes, bolted and made a bracket to tie the front sus to the belly pan. I then tackled the upper shock brace/ steering servo mount. This set-up seems very ridged, and very smooth travel.
I then started in with the rear suspension and I found out for myself, they made it look great to scale but non-functioning. So, I made a pair of travel arms out of alum, oil light bushings in ALL wheels on the skid, made shock bolt down shafts to hold it all together. It flows more like the "M12" Suspensions found in full size sleds. Now this is just paliminairy, with ALOt more tuning here to do.
The drive system I am doing like other post 's and going with a timing style drive belt and pulley's. I am also doing the same with the drive sprockets and made a hub to attach the drive sprockets to. I also found the drivin pulley does NOT run true and will not take the rpms I am going to subject this rig to, so there I made another hub to attach the trued up drive sprocket to with 6-32 bolts.
I am to this point and waiting for the motor and ESC to finish the drivetrain, more to come........
The first hurdle I went after was the front suspension. Here I built a 2 pc alum clamp to tie the radius rod's to the belly pan, here I noticed everyone else had drilled holes, bolted and made a bracket to tie the front sus to the belly pan. I then tackled the upper shock brace/ steering servo mount. This set-up seems very ridged, and very smooth travel.
I then started in with the rear suspension and I found out for myself, they made it look great to scale but non-functioning. So, I made a pair of travel arms out of alum, oil light bushings in ALL wheels on the skid, made shock bolt down shafts to hold it all together. It flows more like the "M12" Suspensions found in full size sleds. Now this is just paliminairy, with ALOt more tuning here to do.
The drive system I am doing like other post 's and going with a timing style drive belt and pulley's. I am also doing the same with the drive sprockets and made a hub to attach the drive sprockets to. I also found the drivin pulley does NOT run true and will not take the rpms I am going to subject this rig to, so there I made another hub to attach the trued up drive sprocket to with 6-32 bolts.
I am to this point and waiting for the motor and ESC to finish the drivetrain, more to come........
#3
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I relly like some of the mods youve done to this so far. I just ordered a used/broken mxz off ebay for this type of purpose as well. Not sure whether to go electric or put some crazy nitro motor in it. The turnbuckles youve made look great and its one of the first replacements im going to be required to do on this for sure.
#5
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Ya i agree with ya there. One of the turnbuckles is already broken on this one, its why i got it so cheap compared to other ones. Ill be watching your build. Nitro is fun stuff but i might just leave that setup in my buggy and go big n brushless for this thing.
#7
Ok, after sum time now I have been able to get all the parts I needed to button up this project to get a little test run in. So I figured, test it in the house and make sure all is okey, went about 8 feet and SNAP, plastic suspension rails broke! Should have figured that was gunna happen, so back to the drawing board...... So what I did, I got 1/4 aluminium scraps and fabricated new rails, using the same locations as the stock ones ( rails are in rough state in pictures ). I also added mm bearings through out the idler and boogie wheels. Wow, there, issue resolved, plus it adds a little weight to the rear end where it really needed it! Sorry no videos but running on old batteries ( very short run time ).
Last edited by greendog; 03-06-2014 at 06:14 AM.
#8
Senior Member
NICE dude!! love the pic with trail from sled and the jolly green giants footprints walking up to it... Come over and grab that LiPo it WILL liven it up!! I will even make you a jumper conn..
#9
Ok, after 6 battery packs, I have come across a couple of issues with the drive system. First one , not liking the rear suspension due to the geometry, going to address this over the summer months. Second was the drive belt I purchased through McMaster Carr, very cheap belt! It was shaking the motor compartment sooooo bad due to the inconsistency of quality in belt. So I purchased a name brand (Jason Industrial), 120XL031, WOW! What a difference! No shaking and smooth, and best perk, faster and quicker to speed!
#10
Well, old man winter has finally let up and now is the fun part of modding everything I didnt like about this build. The first issue I am addressing, is the rear suspension. I am im the process of making a fully functioning rear suspension that both front and rear of the skid will float indapendantly from each other. The picture is of new suspension rails, im really getting into the design and slotting the rail bottoms to reduce weight, and appearance. More to come.....
#11
Ok, so with the summer months burning up my free time, little îs left to spend on the upgrade's I have planned for but, I managed to squeeze out enough time to make the center idler wheels out of aluminium with flanged 1/4 inch ID bearings. This upgrade should be more rugged, less rolling resistance and perk, bling bling!!!!!
Last edited by greendog; 06-10-2014 at 05:37 AM.
#12
So with a few extra minute's, I got the cross shaft done for the idler wheels above, bearings sit on the outer edges and center undercut to reduce weight, using 4-40 tapped holes to lag it together.
Anyone that would like further info or prints of what ive done, feel free to ask, dont mind helping fellow modelers, nothing here is top secret!
Anyone that would like further info or prints of what ive done, feel free to ask, dont mind helping fellow modelers, nothing here is top secret!
Last edited by greendog; 06-24-2014 at 04:57 AM.
#13
So as the next pic's are of the uppper shock tower/steering servo bracket, changes here consisted of lightning up the the cross member with cut-outs, and going with a thinner alum for the servo bracket. Anywhere to shed the weight upfront is a plus!!!!!
#15
Nice job, looks like you are going in the direction I would like to with my next sled, with gear to gear drive! Have you done much with the rear suspension yet? I am in the mitts of hashing out the rear suspension, when I get it closer, ill be posting more pics.
#16
So here it is finally, the rear suspension after countless hours of machining, fitting and functioning. Now what might you ask is so different from other builds? Well, if you are any type of snowmobile fanatic, you will be able to see the scale realism of it, if not here is the break down of it. What I was shooting for is the scale, "working" version of this era sled. Now this suspension allows the the two rear pivots arms to work independantly from one another, until it hits the hard stop limiters. Now, I thought I might needs a front shock on the skid but, its working so smoothly, that I am going to stick with one shock for now with possibilities later if needed for another. As the pictures show, the skid is able to move freely to contour the terrain which in turn will alllow for greater traction and control, plus this geometery of this skid keeps the proper tension on the track in any position. Now if Old Man winter will cooperate, im looking forward to the first snow!!!!
#17
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Recommended battery replacement?
I have the same Skeedoo RC, but the 19.2v NiCd, 600mah battery is shot. Do you have a recommendation on a replacement or ideas to rebuild the battery? Thanks.
#19
So as I was just admirring my hobbizm on this project (yes there is alot of ego in that statement lol), I got slapped in the brain for some finishing touches. Every one that works on snowmobile's (full size), knows how much these lifts, save your back from bending over maintaining them, so......... This is where the idea hit pencil and paper, and made a true working lift for it! The perk is that, I can take what ever apart, and the sled stays put! COME ON OLD MAN WINTER
#20
So in this update, I redone the front suspension mount and radius rods by making the block from nylon and the rods from aluminum and got a big weight savings of 36.54grams or 1.318 oz's!!!!!!! Thats a huge weight reduction for this scale! I also changed the location of the lower radius rod mounts, which now is like full size sleds!
Last edited by greendog; 11-20-2014 at 06:46 AM.
#21
Well,got the first run in for the year and after a couple packs, noticed the idler wheel in the middle of the rear skid acting funny. Upon closer look, the plastic wheel is cracking and ready to explode! So now I came up with this next replacement's, its going to fit with no mods to the skid. Their, no more broken wheels! Will post more pic's when installed and lookin gooooood.......
Last edited by greendog; 11-20-2014 at 01:28 PM.
#22
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: leominster, MA
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i love snow
https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/IMG_1091
Last edited by buckydr1; 12-01-2014 at 07:51 AM.
#23
i love snow
https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/img-1091{1} mov
#24
So, as this project is finishing up,this is where I have taken this. I recently just mod the front ski spindles to accommodate Artattack's high flotation skis, what a difference in the powder, plus MUCH better quality. The rear skid is as done as im going to take it, full ball bearings wheels, all aluminum suspension and wheels, no more broken plastic in the skid anymore! As of right now, im in the process of replicating the rear skid and will be availible for sale!
Last edited by greendog; 01-16-2015 at 09:21 AM.
#25
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