RC Snowmobile Polaris Fusion 900 Build Thread
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RC Snowmobile Polaris Fusion 900 Build Thread
I am going to be building up my Polaris Fusion snowmobile and i will be posting up pic's as i go.I hope others who have a Polaris Fusion snowmobile can look here to help there own build along.I will be useing a brushed motor something between a 15t and a 27t.I'll probably use a novak rooster esc and run it on 7 cell's(ib4200).For a servo i'll use the one from my rock crawler.
The main issue i am having is how to fabricate a driveshaft for the track-pulley that can ride in some bearings.The track-pulley has a square hole for the stock square driveshaft.So it is posing a problem.Once i figure out how to build a drive shaft that can ride on bearings and have the track pulley locked on i will move forward with the build.
All ideas and sugestions welcomed
So- Please Post up your Polaris Fusion build's, tip's and idea's
The main issue i am having is how to fabricate a driveshaft for the track-pulley that can ride in some bearings.The track-pulley has a square hole for the stock square driveshaft.So it is posing a problem.Once i figure out how to build a drive shaft that can ride on bearings and have the track pulley locked on i will move forward with the build.
All ideas and sugestions welcomed
So- Please Post up your Polaris Fusion build's, tip's and idea's
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RE: RC Snowmobile Polaris Fusion 900 Build Thread
This by far one of the greatest looking ones out there. I have the same one but I ended up frying my controller and the company won't give me a replacment. I will follow this thread completely and I hope it goes well!
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RE: RC Snowmobile Polaris Fusion 900 Build Thread
Well i have done some work.I built up a shock tower and i used the front end parts from a stampede.I used the front bulkhead and cut it in half then cut it down to mount to the plate on the bottom of the body.This makes mounting all the other front end parts a lot more easy.I mounted the camber links to the inside of the "fender"and it is atatched to the rear servo mount,so it is strong.I used some threaded rod to make up the steering links and i enlarged the holes in the body so the won't rub.You can see in the pics how i mounted the servo,it is pretty straight forward.I used some spacers under the front bracket, 1/4 inch.I have front stampede shocks they are shorter than the rear and seem like they will work out.I have a 12t motor in there with a 18t pinion just for testing and it moves along pretty quick in the living room.
I will be building some rails for my track skid with some aluminum i have.I'm useing some roller wheels for sliding glass dors as bogie wheels.I'll see how it comes out
I will be building some rails for my track skid with some aluminum i have.I'm useing some roller wheels for sliding glass dors as bogie wheels.I'll see how it comes out
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RE: RC Snowmobile Polaris Fusion 900 Build Thread
Well i finished the track skid.I used some roller wheels that are for sliding glass doors as my small bogie wheels.I also used two of them on the inside of the rails to keep the track centered.I used a hpi rs 4 front arm for the rear swing arm and i used a stampede front aluminum arm.The shock is a front short stampede shock and it is attached in the center of the rear upper track wheel axle.The shock mounts to the front swing arm in the stock holes in the arm.I have a steel wire for the front arm to pivot on and i used some pinion's as locking collers to keep the front arm centered.The stock red and black bogie wheels have 5x11 bearings in them every thing is spinning on bearings except for the drive axle it's stiil useing the plastic bushings.I plan to change them to a bearing but i'm not sure if i'm going to build a tranny or use a belt drive,any sugestions would be very helpfull.
I am running a traxxas X L 5 esc and a peak racing 15x2 motor with a 18t pinion and a 6 cell ib 4200 bat pack.
It was 8*f out last night and i ran it for about 8 min.It is faster than stock,fast enough to get the rear end fish tailing probably about 15 mph and fast enough to drive in 5'' of snow and stay on top but barely.So i checked the motor and it was very hot and the esc was not.The motor pinion has to go around 9 times to make the main track gear go around once and then the main gear has to go around 3.5 times to have the track make one full revolution.SO i'm thinking the motor is over reving but id did really sound like it was working hard .I did'nt have my temp guage but i could smell the brushes i came close to smoking it.
So what is a motor that will be strong enough to over come all the drag , i'm not sure what i should be looking for as far as a gear ratio from the motor to the track gear, i could use some help.I have a 550 12t ,550 24t,540 13t,540 15tand a cobalt 27t.i also have a novak hv super duty esc and manny good nimh bat's.I need to try and work with what i have any sugestions?
Enjoy the pics
I am running a traxxas X L 5 esc and a peak racing 15x2 motor with a 18t pinion and a 6 cell ib 4200 bat pack.
It was 8*f out last night and i ran it for about 8 min.It is faster than stock,fast enough to get the rear end fish tailing probably about 15 mph and fast enough to drive in 5'' of snow and stay on top but barely.So i checked the motor and it was very hot and the esc was not.The motor pinion has to go around 9 times to make the main track gear go around once and then the main gear has to go around 3.5 times to have the track make one full revolution.SO i'm thinking the motor is over reving but id did really sound like it was working hard .I did'nt have my temp guage but i could smell the brushes i came close to smoking it.
So what is a motor that will be strong enough to over come all the drag , i'm not sure what i should be looking for as far as a gear ratio from the motor to the track gear, i could use some help.I have a 550 12t ,550 24t,540 13t,540 15tand a cobalt 27t.i also have a novak hv super duty esc and manny good nimh bat's.I need to try and work with what i have any sugestions?
Enjoy the pics
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RE: RC Snowmobile Polaris Fusion 900 Build Thread
I'm running an e-maxx motor and two ib 4200 bat packs.I have a 21t pinion turnning the stock tranny.No more over heating.I get about 15-20 min runtime at 25*f.I would say it is running 30 mph but i don't have a big enough area to let it top out.I am very happy with the speed.
enjoy the pics,feel free to ask if you need help with yours
enjoy the pics,feel free to ask if you need help with yours
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RE: RC Snowmobile Polaris Fusion 900 Build Thread
Could you give out some more motor setup pics. I just wanna see were everything is .So far ive got my sled torn apart and im just starting to order some parts. Would you be willing to sell me a complete rear suspension setup later if I needed it?
THNX ALOT!!!! For your help on this man its lookin excellent. I am sure lots of peopel would love to see some video of this in action too.
THNX ALOT!!!! For your help on this man its lookin excellent. I am sure lots of peopel would love to see some video of this in action too.
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RE: RC Snowmobile Polaris Fusion 900 Build Thread
Here are some more pic's.I took some pic's of the track undercarriage.I have been asked if i have a problem with snow packing in that area as well as the track pulley.As you can see in the pics i don't have any snow packing in any critical area's.There is a "dusting" of snow on everything but not on the track pulley so i don't have any problems with the track pulley slipping because of packed snow.
These pic's were taken after 15 min of driving at 8*f.I let the sled sit outside for about 2 min before i started driving it to let it get cooled down to the outside temp to help with any snow sticking issues.I also wiped the track pulley with some rain-x,also to prevent the snow from sticking to the track pulley.The combo of letting the sled cool down for a couple min and the rain-x really helped out a lot.The rain-x does make a big difference on the snow sticking, well worth useing.
RC Snowmobiler-I will get some close ups under the hood for you.I would be able to assist with the rear suspension for any one,just pm me.
These pic's were taken after 15 min of driving at 8*f.I let the sled sit outside for about 2 min before i started driving it to let it get cooled down to the outside temp to help with any snow sticking issues.I also wiped the track pulley with some rain-x,also to prevent the snow from sticking to the track pulley.The combo of letting the sled cool down for a couple min and the rain-x really helped out a lot.The rain-x does make a big difference on the snow sticking, well worth useing.
RC Snowmobiler-I will get some close ups under the hood for you.I would be able to assist with the rear suspension for any one,just pm me.
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RE: RC Snowmobile Polaris Fusion 900 Build Thread
Do you know of a place where I can buy these batteries that you are using. Doesn't seem to be any on ebay or in my near by hobby store.
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RE: RC Snowmobile Polaris Fusion 900 Build Thread
I got mine at new era,they are one of my local hobby stores.Here is a link http://2008.neweramodels.com/categor...nufact=&model=
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RE: RC Snowmobile Polaris Fusion 900 Build Thread
Here are some close up pic's of the motor and tranny.I am still useing the stock tranny and gears.They are still holding up fine and i have run it about ten times.
You can see i drilled a couple holes for cooling on the motor mount side of the tranny.I also cut the round area on the motor side of the tranny to allow a 550 motor to fit and to provide enough room to adjust the gear mesh.I also elongated one of the motor mount holes to be able to swing the motor,also to provide propper gear mesh.
You can see i drilled a couple holes for cooling on the motor mount side of the tranny.I also cut the round area on the motor side of the tranny to allow a 550 motor to fit and to provide enough room to adjust the gear mesh.I also elongated one of the motor mount holes to be able to swing the motor,also to provide propper gear mesh.
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RE: RC Snowmobile Polaris Fusion 900 Build Thread
I have just finished ordering a traxxas xl 5 esc. So befor I get it which wires went to the steering the motor , lights etc.Pics would be helpful. Yet another question lol... Did you keep the stock steering servo ? Also I am not planning on putting in a new front suspension.
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RE: RC Snowmobile Polaris Fusion 900 Build Thread
Home hard ware usually has them, best buy too maybe. Dragon fly inovations makes the guts of the machine at http://www.rctoys.com/ . go to there site and you can buy them online.
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RE: RC Snowmobile Polaris Fusion 900 Build Thread
I built up a new camber mount and top brace.I also added some cross bracing to the track pulley to grip the inside of the track and help prevent slipping
I tried to save it in a roll and i caught the ski and it dug in and put a lot of stress on the camber mount on the body.I had it backed with alum angle(my former servo mount also)but it was only reinforced on one side,the inside.So it pushed throught he body.I made up a new mount and bolted it to the front alum plate where the arms also mount to.The suspension cycles nice and smooth and roll's left and right nicely.
The belly also cracked due to the motor compartment flexing against the tunnel.So i built a top brace that mounts from the top of the tunnel to the shock brace.Now it is very stiff with no flex to worry about.
RC-SnowmobilerI am useing an e-maxx esc and an e-maxx motor(24t) and i'm running 14.4v.I needed more tourqe and an e-maxx motor filled thet need then i neede more speed and a second 6 cell batery pack filled that need then i needed an esc so there came the e-maxx one.I tried useing the xl-5 with a 15t and the titan 12t,but with the pinion selection i had on hand (18t,17t,16t)i was having over heating problems and not getting the speed or runtime i was happy with.This set up gives me plenty of speed and about 20 min runtime.
You can't use the stock steering motor you must use a hobby servo with 3 wires to be able to plug into your rx.
The front suspension needs to be rebuilt.The arms do not keep the ski parelell with the ground under compression and the steering links will bind with a new servo.It will be worth the time to do if you want it to work right.To get this sled to the point it is ready to go as long as your batery is charged takes a lot of work,trial and error.In the end you will have a really cool rc sled,but don't beat on it the plastic will break.Your basic roll's and tumbles will be ok.But when you get it running fast, because it never seems fast enough you will see it was not ment to survive crashes well.I did crack it up but not bad.But now i am at the point where i really want to drive it a bit harder and faster.So i am faced with building my own snomobile and useing the stock hood and seat.I have the material to build it on hand but it's the track.If the track rips or some how becomes unuseable then i will have a nice custom sled with no track,a very frustrating situation i can imagine.So i'm on the hunt for a good track.
I tried to save it in a roll and i caught the ski and it dug in and put a lot of stress on the camber mount on the body.I had it backed with alum angle(my former servo mount also)but it was only reinforced on one side,the inside.So it pushed throught he body.I made up a new mount and bolted it to the front alum plate where the arms also mount to.The suspension cycles nice and smooth and roll's left and right nicely.
The belly also cracked due to the motor compartment flexing against the tunnel.So i built a top brace that mounts from the top of the tunnel to the shock brace.Now it is very stiff with no flex to worry about.
RC-SnowmobilerI am useing an e-maxx esc and an e-maxx motor(24t) and i'm running 14.4v.I needed more tourqe and an e-maxx motor filled thet need then i neede more speed and a second 6 cell batery pack filled that need then i needed an esc so there came the e-maxx one.I tried useing the xl-5 with a 15t and the titan 12t,but with the pinion selection i had on hand (18t,17t,16t)i was having over heating problems and not getting the speed or runtime i was happy with.This set up gives me plenty of speed and about 20 min runtime.
You can't use the stock steering motor you must use a hobby servo with 3 wires to be able to plug into your rx.
The front suspension needs to be rebuilt.The arms do not keep the ski parelell with the ground under compression and the steering links will bind with a new servo.It will be worth the time to do if you want it to work right.To get this sled to the point it is ready to go as long as your batery is charged takes a lot of work,trial and error.In the end you will have a really cool rc sled,but don't beat on it the plastic will break.Your basic roll's and tumbles will be ok.But when you get it running fast, because it never seems fast enough you will see it was not ment to survive crashes well.I did crack it up but not bad.But now i am at the point where i really want to drive it a bit harder and faster.So i am faced with building my own snomobile and useing the stock hood and seat.I have the material to build it on hand but it's the track.If the track rips or some how becomes unuseable then i will have a nice custom sled with no track,a very frustrating situation i can imagine.So i'm on the hunt for a good track.
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RE: RC Snowmobile Polaris Fusion 900 Build Thread
I'm sure you could just use some pond liner ( you can get it at rona I think) And cut that into a decent track. get new a new rear drive shaft, artattack anti ratchet track pulley + a new pinion to go to the gears. All that would be a bit of a struggle would be the holes in the track for the pulley. Maybe then you could put some more length to that track too
This is an 14.4V e-Maxx esc but it looks a tad different than yours. Will it work?
This is an 14.4V e-Maxx esc but it looks a tad different than yours. Will it work?
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RE: RC Snowmobile Polaris Fusion 900 Build Thread
I have taken my sled to the next level so to speak.I removed the stock tranny,and replaced it with an hpi wheely king tranny i had sitting around waiting to be used.I mounted it on the left side,it is mounted directly to the dog house.I made up a bearing holder with some scrap aluminum and poped in a 12x6 bearing(i'll check the size because i can't remember0but it is from the e-maxx steering knuckle.I ran the xl-5 esc with a peak racing 15x2 motor and the 6 cell ib4200 bat pack.I am running a 13t pinion and a 96t spur.This gives a final ratio of 7.2:1 it was able to go fast enough to stay on top of 5' of powder but it was not as fast as with the two batterys and e maxx motor.On hard packed snow it was much better but still not as fast as before.I need to fool around with the gearing i think to get it to the same speed as before with only one batery pack.I drove it for about 10 min and it was not dead or dying yet but the bat was warmer than the esc and motor(6*f outside)so i know that the 15t motor is pulling some high amps,i need to do some more experimenting to see if i can get it to run the same speed as before with only one battery pack.here are some pics
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RE: RC Snowmobile Polaris Fusion 900 Build Thread
jdeadman, Thank you, I have put a lot of time into this sled to make it dependable. I will soon be building an aluminum tunnell and using the stock body to mount to it like the art attack sled. I'm still trying to figure out how to build my own track. I was thinking maybe timing belts and some steel rod and some kind of epoxy that will adhere to the rubber and hold the metal rods and remain flexiable. I don't know, anybody have any ideas?
RC Snowmobiler: I don't know where I can get pond liner at this time of year around here, and I think it might be to thin I never really seen it before.
RC Snowmobiler: I don't know where I can get pond liner at this time of year around here, and I think it might be to thin I never really seen it before.
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RE: RC Snowmobile Polaris Fusion 900 Build Thread
Well it is a very durable thing, It is extremely strong too, Pull on it has hard as u can and it won't rip. I was at Canadian tire and they said they had 2 different kinds.
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RE: RC Snowmobile Polaris Fusion 900 Build Thread
I used (2) old tonka bull dozer tracks, shaved the tread off, and bought some brass square tubing and small rivits, and made
several tracks for many of my models. When finished, you have yourself a nice little cleated track.
several tracks for many of my models. When finished, you have yourself a nice little cleated track.
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RE: RC Snowmobile Polaris Fusion 900 Build Thread
I have 2 of these 7.2V 2000mah ni-cd batteries that I bought for the machine stock. will they work with the e-maxx setup?
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RE: RC Snowmobile Polaris Fusion 900 Build Thread
They will work but they won't give a very good runtime.The more mah (milli amp hours)the longer runtime you will have.
RC Snowmobiler do you have some pictures of your progress so far?I would really like to see it.
RC Snowmobiler do you have some pictures of your progress so far?I would really like to see it.
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RE: RC Snowmobile Polaris Fusion 900 Build Thread
They will have to do for little while though because im starting to get short on money. I know what I have to get now but I am stuck on the controller,receiver + servo. What are you using?
RidgeWalker - I will get some pics up for ya soon.
RidgeWalker - I will get some pics up for ya soon.
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RE: RC Snowmobile Polaris Fusion 900 Build Thread
Nice write-up ridgewalker. I got one of these recently and trying it stock with the 9 feet per second speed and 15 feet of radio range, this setup had to go.
If I’m hijacking this thread, mods please delete this response.
This Polaris model is probably one of the nicest authentically looking snowmobiles I’ve seen.
For my modification, I wanted more speed and better radio range. This meant having to change the radio system which is non-conventional and replace the brushed motor drive. The plan was to put in a brushless motor and speed controller, hi-torque steering servo, and spread spectrum receiver.
The before picture…
The after picture…
The brushed drive motor, the brushed steering motor and assembly, and the controller/receiver board are removed.
The servo mount is made out of 1/8” plywood. I didn’t want to spend too much time and money on this in case it wasn’t going to work. I am mounting a Hitec HS-465MG metal geared servo with a Kimbrough lager servo-saver #124.
Here is a picture of the servo mount installed in the frame. I wanted to use the existing 4 mounting holes so the reason for the funky layout. The plywood passes over one of the screw locations so I notched out a hole big enough to accommodate the insertion of the screw and screwdriver.
I set the height of the servo on the base so that the motor saddle would rest on the servo providing additional support to the saddle. This also gave the proper clearance for the servo-saver arm and steering linkages passing though the frame.
Next thing I did was cut the ends off the original steering linkages as I wanted to add ball links for adjustability and less binding during operation. I cut off enough to ensure the total length from the z-bend to the ball was the same as the original length with 3/8” of thread in the link. I threaded the cut end of the linkages with a 4-40 thread to match the ball links I was using.
The electronics used was the Castle Creation 4600kv brushless motor and Sidewinder ESC, and Futaba 603FF 3-channel FASST receiver. I cut the original battery leads near the controller board and solder on a female Deans connector. I soldered a male Deans to the battery leads on the speed controller. I left the Tamiya connector at the end under the seat. I soldered a 100 ohm resistor in series with the one wire coming from the tail lights under the seat and cut the ends near the controller board. I added a male servo connector to these leads, observing proper polarity, plugged it into channel 3 of the receiver to light them up during operation. I cut the switch leads of the speed controller at the switch and installed a female servo connector on them. I cut the stock switch wires near the controller board and installed a male servo connector there and connected to the female connector on the ESC. This way when I remove the top cover, I can disconnect the wires. I am not hooking up the head lights at this time as I want to replace them with super bright white LED’s. In the meanwhile, I have cut those wires near the controller board and tucked them away under the hood. The speed controller is velcro’d to the steering bulkhead. The receiver is velro’d to a board that was cut and fit into the original controller board slots. The antenna is run through a small chunk of antenna tubing glued in under the seat. The motor fits the existing mounting holes, but I filed a slot in one of them so I could adjust the motor gear mesh for different pinion gear sizes.
Measuring just under 24" from tip of skis to the rear most plastic piece, it's probable close to 1/4 scale.
Final notes. I tried it with a 7.2V NiMh battery pack and a Robinson Racing Products 32 pitch 12 tooth pinion (RRP-0120) and got the faster speed that I was looking for. It was okay...., but not good enough. Today, I tried a 14 tooth pinion (RRP-0140) and got great speed on the hard pack and good speed in the deeper hard packed snow. I was out for maybe 10 minutes and noticed after that that I injected 1500mAh back into the pack. Also, one nice thing about the Castle speed controller is you can program in a throttle curve if you have the Castle Link cable. I relaxed the throttle output with a curve that didn't kick in some serious power to about 60% of throttle trigger input from my Futaba 3PM radio. When we get some fresh snow, I plan to try it out with my 3-cell LiPo’s and see what she can do. I am expecting a jump in speed. I like it! [sm=thumbup.gif]
If I’m hijacking this thread, mods please delete this response.
This Polaris model is probably one of the nicest authentically looking snowmobiles I’ve seen.
For my modification, I wanted more speed and better radio range. This meant having to change the radio system which is non-conventional and replace the brushed motor drive. The plan was to put in a brushless motor and speed controller, hi-torque steering servo, and spread spectrum receiver.
The before picture…
The after picture…
The brushed drive motor, the brushed steering motor and assembly, and the controller/receiver board are removed.
The servo mount is made out of 1/8” plywood. I didn’t want to spend too much time and money on this in case it wasn’t going to work. I am mounting a Hitec HS-465MG metal geared servo with a Kimbrough lager servo-saver #124.
Here is a picture of the servo mount installed in the frame. I wanted to use the existing 4 mounting holes so the reason for the funky layout. The plywood passes over one of the screw locations so I notched out a hole big enough to accommodate the insertion of the screw and screwdriver.
I set the height of the servo on the base so that the motor saddle would rest on the servo providing additional support to the saddle. This also gave the proper clearance for the servo-saver arm and steering linkages passing though the frame.
Next thing I did was cut the ends off the original steering linkages as I wanted to add ball links for adjustability and less binding during operation. I cut off enough to ensure the total length from the z-bend to the ball was the same as the original length with 3/8” of thread in the link. I threaded the cut end of the linkages with a 4-40 thread to match the ball links I was using.
The electronics used was the Castle Creation 4600kv brushless motor and Sidewinder ESC, and Futaba 603FF 3-channel FASST receiver. I cut the original battery leads near the controller board and solder on a female Deans connector. I soldered a male Deans to the battery leads on the speed controller. I left the Tamiya connector at the end under the seat. I soldered a 100 ohm resistor in series with the one wire coming from the tail lights under the seat and cut the ends near the controller board. I added a male servo connector to these leads, observing proper polarity, plugged it into channel 3 of the receiver to light them up during operation. I cut the switch leads of the speed controller at the switch and installed a female servo connector on them. I cut the stock switch wires near the controller board and installed a male servo connector there and connected to the female connector on the ESC. This way when I remove the top cover, I can disconnect the wires. I am not hooking up the head lights at this time as I want to replace them with super bright white LED’s. In the meanwhile, I have cut those wires near the controller board and tucked them away under the hood. The speed controller is velcro’d to the steering bulkhead. The receiver is velro’d to a board that was cut and fit into the original controller board slots. The antenna is run through a small chunk of antenna tubing glued in under the seat. The motor fits the existing mounting holes, but I filed a slot in one of them so I could adjust the motor gear mesh for different pinion gear sizes.
Measuring just under 24" from tip of skis to the rear most plastic piece, it's probable close to 1/4 scale.
Final notes. I tried it with a 7.2V NiMh battery pack and a Robinson Racing Products 32 pitch 12 tooth pinion (RRP-0120) and got the faster speed that I was looking for. It was okay...., but not good enough. Today, I tried a 14 tooth pinion (RRP-0140) and got great speed on the hard pack and good speed in the deeper hard packed snow. I was out for maybe 10 minutes and noticed after that that I injected 1500mAh back into the pack. Also, one nice thing about the Castle speed controller is you can program in a throttle curve if you have the Castle Link cable. I relaxed the throttle output with a curve that didn't kick in some serious power to about 60% of throttle trigger input from my Futaba 3PM radio. When we get some fresh snow, I plan to try it out with my 3-cell LiPo’s and see what she can do. I am expecting a jump in speed. I like it! [sm=thumbup.gif]
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RE: RC Snowmobile Polaris Fusion 900 Build Thread
Nice work darylp, love to see RC sled progression! that sled is longer than i thought, seems like its about the size of the art acrap. whats the overall lenght?