TechyJoe

All

Youtube video URL for my Buildout below:

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMjIEqFValk[/youtube]

[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMjIEqFValk]YouTube Skidoo Rev XP Buildout [/link]

TechyJoe

All

Mistake
I noticed that in the video, I mention creating a new axle for the second metal gear after the pinion using a cut down 3mm drill bit. This is a mistake. In the final version, I really used 1/8 round stock or 1/8 cut down drill bit.

jleblanc

Awesome bud!!! that thing is wicked sweet..

darksideofasaucerfulofsecrets

I'm sure your tired of the onslaught of questions about your sled, and I apologize in advance for adding mine to the long list. I've read this forum front to back and am about to begin a build. Iwould like more details on how you mount your steering servo, what servo horn you use (pic or part #) and pic of the metal you cut and drilled to use on servo horn in pic. I see zip ties and a metal bar but details please and where these can be obtained.

Thanks for all the aid you give to our hobby

TechyJoe

darksideofasaucerfulofsecrets

Here is what I did:

1) First I used a Hitect HS 85MG servo. This is a small to medium size airplane servo.

2) I purchased a slim strip of aluminum bar from Home Depot and cut it to size.

3) screwed this bar into the plastic shock mount area with small sheet metel screws

4) Glued the servo to the bar using 5 minute epoxy and strapped them down using the tie straps. The servo has held up in place for 3 seasons now.

5) I used a normal servo horn which came with the server and mounted it pointing upwards.

6) I then used some really thin aluminum sheet and cut a triangle shape harness. Drilled two holes on the bottom side of the triangle to mount the steering arms. The aluminum sheet is so thin I cut this with normal siccors. The holes were spaced just far enough apart to give the skis some toe out. This helps it from tipping over.

7) At the top part of the triangle, I drilled two holes to screw the whole thing onto the servo horn.

8) I capped the ski arms with small wheel colars to keep everything in place.

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darksideofasaucerfulofsecrets

Thanks TechyJoe [8D]

The servo horn has one horn piece going up and one going down correct? So 3 screws in picture, one going into servo itself, and top and bottom screws going into the servo horn attaching sheet metal, with two wheel collars at far bottom? 

One additional question in mind, I can see what you are referring to as "wheel collars" but I am not familiar with these. Can they be purchased by themselves like screws and other spare parts?  Your using these to hold linkage onto sheet metal and also to hold one of your gears in place in transmission?

TechyJoe

darksideofasaucerfulofsecrets

Yes, all correct on the first paragraph.

For the second paragraph about the wheel collars, the answer is also yes. You can purchase these typically in a bag of four (from a hobby store). They come in different sizes, so you probably want ones that have 3mm - 4mm diameter holes - I'm not sure of the exact size I used, since I pulled these from my bag of spare parts.

As for the collar on the transmission, the collar resides on the outside of the plastic gear train housing attached to the axle rod.

Hope this helps.

TechyJoe

Minor change

I changed the motor out from the Reedy 3300 to the Traxxas Velineon because the shaft on the Reed was not long enough to accommodate the pinion gear well (this is somewhat noticable in the pictures above - blue motor instead of black).

darksideofasaucerfulofsecrets

I did notice the blue motor in the final picture.  The traxxas esc and motor handles 3s lipo?  What is the ESC model number and kv rating of your final motor selection?  I will begin posting pics of my progress soon, I have the interactive toys artic cat snowmobile (green and black).

If I will be trying to use the stock three latex gears in drive train and just replacing the pinion on motor, can I still use the robinson racing pinion you mentioned in the thread earlier and then switch the second gear from latex to metal if it strips later in season?

Also, how is the metal piece you have mounted over motor held down in your video? 

ALL VERY HELPFUL.

darksideofasaucerfulofsecrets

darksideofasaucerfulofsecrets

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darksideofasaucerfulofsecrets

darksideofasaucerfulofsecrets

Started thread for my artic cat build, any coments are welcome. Can be found in unusual rc section

TechyJoe

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hunternaf

placeholder? do they drop drop threads after a time without post?

TechyJoe

I think so. I haven't visited the site in a few months and it appears I have lost all my personal forums I created and subscribed to.

Jay-Em

Well, a few years on, and we'll finally be having some serious snow overhere. Arctic air, straight from the east. 's About time..

Time to get the MXZ from the attic, and do some deeper tweaking.. Full-Option Blizzard FR snowcat (blade, Tiller, Lights, rotating beacon, full interior etc. etc. ) is already prepped. Dis gun' be good.

I went for a long-can 490-type 2530kv hobbyking ducted-fan brushles motor, and a cheap 45amp hobbyking esc. 16t pinion still, and some serious cooling-fins. And, hooboy, does that work like a charm! On a humble 7.4v 2000ah 30c LiPo, it accelerates like a rat on fire. Way faster than it ever was with the brushed 380. Run-time something between 10 to 15 minutes. Haven't tested top-speed yet, though. 25km/h full-throttle seems about correct. It's much faster than a stock Grasshopper on the straights, that's for sure.

To my surprise, the whole shebash got warm, but no more than a "comfy" 45 to 50 degrees, even in the enclosed front. That tells me A) that BL motors for ducted fans are highly efficient, and B) a 17 or 18t pinion could work when I do something for ventilation in the front.

Only thing hampering its performance, is the way the lugs are molded in the track. I got a broken track for free, and discovered that flexible CA-glue/gorilla glue works pretty well for repairs.
My plan is to cut the lugs in a manner like they are on real Skidoos. I noticed that they never, ever use broad, single lugs, but always stagger them. Me thinks that could work. The MXZ will never be a true "deep powder" machine, but everything preventing digging-in, is worth trying.