tashley

My Feedback: (9)

This review is on the Extreme Flight RC Mini 3D. The Mini 3D is touted by EF to be a full blown 3D machine in a slightly smaller format. For those of you who haven't heard about the Mini, if there is anyone who hasn't, you can see some "kicking" video [link=http://www.extremeflightrc.com/product_html/Mini3D.htm]here.[/link] The engine rating on this model is .15 to .25. The video at Extreme Flight RC's site is of a Mini with a .15, but they really perform their best with at least a bushed .25. I'll be using a new OS .25LA in mine.

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

Here's a shot of the major components and the small pieces laid out on the table. Although this shot dosen't show it, all the major components are wrapped in foam sheet and sealed in individual plastic bags. There is an adaquate amount of cardboard seperators and the box is sized to keep parts from shifting too much in transit. The kit came to me from Extreme Flight RC double boxed as well.

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

These shots show the covering over the servo holes removed, the rudder post covering removed, the covering on the fuse for the wing removed, and the formers trimmed for the wing.

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

I made a couple of changes to the landing gear. I bent up a new tailskid out of .055 piano wire and lengthened it 1/2", and I lengthened the mains 1 1/4" to help the little bird rotate. One other mod I made on the tailskid was to cut back the covering at the rear of the fuse and epoxy a small piece of f/g cloth over the wire.

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

Here are the tail feathers all lined up and welded on. Got throw?

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

Here's a few shots of the servos all mounted up. I used Dubro swivel links on most of the servos to cancel out the rotary to linear bind up that sometimes occurs.

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

Here's a shot "down the throat". This little dude is all Laser cut and the assembly work is superb. This model is unique in that it uses a "power pod" system in that the motor mount, motor, firewall, fuel tank, and throttle servo are one modular unit and it slides nto the front of the fuselage. The pod is held in by six self tap screws. I added a little security by using a bead of silicone around the perimeter of the firewall to help secure the pod as well as act as a seal against oil getting into the front of the fuselage. If I ever need to pull the pod, I'll just slice the silicone with a razor blade and slide it out.

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

Chris Hinson, president of Extreme Flight, recommends using a radial mount if installing a .25 so I cut off the plywood bearers and will be replacing them with a Dave Brown radial mount that I have put on a Bridgeport diet. The modified mount weighs .17 oz. more than the bearers and the tri-stock that is used to re-inforce them.

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

Here's the pod all ready to slide into it's cozy little cave.

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

Time to put some break in time on this puppy.

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

If you are going to use a .15 the S.O.P. is to load the battery and receiver in from the front, but since I'm using the heavier .25 the gear has to be mounted closer the the rear of the wing to achieve the correct c/g. I cut the covering and framed up an opening at the rear of the wing area on the port side of the fuselage to install the receiver and battery. I made up a 650 mAh ni-mh pack and attached it to the bottom of the wing with velcro. The receiver is mounted the same way behind the former to the rear of the battery. I made a hatch cover out of .030 butyrate, cut holes for the battery hook up leads, and the cover is held on with clear hinge tape. In order to save weight, the battery lead plugs into a short lead that is connected to the receiver. Hence, no switch saving a little weight.

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

Well, here the little darlin is. There's only one thing left to do, take her out and try and fly the snot out of her. I'll be back as soon as the weather breaks and I have a chance to wring her out and let y'all know how it went.

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

I almost forgot. A listing of the equipment used and the finished weight.

Engine: OS .25 LA
Receiver: Hitech 555
Servos: Hithec HS 81MG-5ea.
Wheels: Dave Brown Electra Lite 2"

All up weight ready to fly...2lbs.-3ozs.. I might add that the finished weight was acheived without my agonizing over every gram. Not too shabby and possible in part to the quality of arf construction being imported today.

It's a far cry from when the choices included Flite Craft. Remember those.


Now get out of here and let me go fly this thing. The sun just came out and the winds are light and favorable.[8D]

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

Man, this weather has been uncommonly crappy for the Gulf Coast this winter. I've had one semi-decent flying day in the last month. Barely enough to just start flying this thing, but I'll tell you this, I really like what I see so far. I have never seen a plane with such rock solid Harriers. Absolutley no wing rock. Hovers are duck soup. Flat spins are the best. You can set up a flat spin with no loss in elevation and just let it chase it's tail as the breeze drifts it over the flying field, or you can work it for a killer ascending flat spin. The choice is yours. Everything I've had the limited time to try so far has been a blast. This plane could be a great 3D trainer. I'll be back with more as soon as the weather breaks. Please!

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

It's still raining![]

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

Someone e-mailed me with a couple of good questions and I thought I would put the answers here for all to see.
#1 Where is the access hatch located. The equipment hatch is located on the left side of the fuse under and at the rear of the wing.
#2 How is the tank mounted as to not interfere with the motor mount. Because of the minimal amount of room between the engine and the firewall after I modified the radial mount I removed a little more material at the rear of the pod plate in order to have the tank plug flush with the firewall. I then centered the plug in the firewall hole and silicone glued it to the firewall, this also makes the firewall fuelproof at this point. I also put a dab of silicone at the back of the tank to pod plate. If you move the tank back a little you can use blind nuts and shcs to attach the motor mount to the firewall. While we are on the subject of the tank, several builders have complained about the pick up not reaching the bottom of the tank. Some have corrected the problem by adding weight to the pick up, ugh! The way I took care of the problem was to use 1/2A size fuel tubing for the pick up line. The .25 LA dosen't know the difference and the pick up tube "hits" all the corners.

If anyone who is building one of these great little birds has any questions about the build, fire away.

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

Finally, got a chance to put some time on this little bugger and I really like it. It does it all in a compact size. This is a design that everyone whoose into 3D could benefit from owning and flying. It's compact, uses little fuel, and does it all.

jsonin

My Feedback: (4)

I've got an old but trust OS 25 FSR (15 years old - not a powerplant anymore)... and a brand new OS 32.. is the 32 too much? I'd never use full throttle...

Also, I presume Hitec 225s will fit fine?

Thanks and thanks for the great posts,
Juhan

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

Juhan, thanks for the compliments. If you liked the construction thread on the Mini, you should check out the one on Extreme Flight's Edge 540T. It's not that the .32 is too big hp wise, it's a weight thing. I have an OS .25 LA in mine and HS-81MG servos to be able to come in at the weight I have listed. This little plane is very sensitive to excess weight however if put together light is a dynamite flyer. I've listing some equipment weights below.
HS- 81MG-.67oz
HS- 85MG-.77oz
HS- 225MG-1.09oz

OS .25LA-9.5oz w/m
OS .25FX-10.8oz w/m
OS .32SX-12.32oz w/m

If it were me, I would go no more than the .25FSR or FX and 85MG's purely because of weight factors.
I hope this helps.

BTW, I flew this thing a bunch at the recent Houston Pro Bro and can honestly say the more I fly it, the more I like it.

c/f

My Feedback: (1)

Nothing about this plane is geared towards a powerhouse 25 IMHO. Most all the wood on the fuse section is 3/32". heres my 25 oz RTF mini 3d. HS225 will be heavy. HS81 are sub standard servos IMHO.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_14...tm.htm#1443884

Ray 67

My Feedback: (1)

Looking for assistance. About to fly my mini 3d. Using an O.S. 25FX engine I had on hand. Not used to this size engine. What would be the best prop size for this plane? I realize that the engine is oversize and the plane will not stand up to high speed level flight. Looking for a prop size to get the most pull with the least speed.

Thanks,

Ray

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

Ray, I have found the APC 10-3 to be the perfect prop for a Mini with a .25. You won't use all the power the FX is capable of much of the time, but it's a good thing to have it when you need it. It's like we say in Texas, "if a little is good then more is better and too much is jest rite".

Ray 67

My Feedback: (1)

Thank you Tom for all of the valuable information you have shared. I am used to flying some extreme type aircraft, like the Rippy, Diamond Unlimitied etc. Some of these have a CG of 40 to 45%. My Mini 3D has come out tail heavy even with the .25 FX and Dave Brown mount. How far back from the LE can I let the CG go and still get off the ground without a "death snap" on takeoff?

Thanks again,

Ray

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

Ray, I don't think I ever checked the cg on mine. I don't see how you can be too tail heavy, I have my receiver mounted at the rear of the wing and the battery pack just in front of that. Besides, your motor is heaver than mine. I think you'll be ok, just set up your low rates and add a little expo and take it easy the first couple of flights. The Mini is a very forgiving little ship and I think you'll enjoy it a lot.

Ray 67

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Tom, I will take your advice and go for it. Wish me luck.

Ray 67