pit_basher

My Feedback: (3)

Can somebody please give me a good set up for servos either hitec or futaba, not interested in digitals just good strong servos. I will be running a DA-50 and soon will be ordering my 300LX.

flatlandmike

My Feedback: (17)

hs945 s will work for every surface except the rudder i would want more power on the rudder

just look for core-less servos with the torque you want

by the way why do you not want digi's

Young-RCPilot

Well You Got Me Convinced So I Am Going To Have To Order This Plane Now. I Was Wondering How This Plane Knife Edges Because It Says There A Little Mixing Needed On The LX.

rare_bear

My Feedback: (1)

also, what made you guys choose this plane over the 300 special?

FlyinTiger

My Feedback: (45)

I will run the complete trimming sequence as outlined by Peter Goldsmith in Feb and Apr Model Aviation mags, but from the ten flights I did before I left, still breaking in the engine on the smaller prop...changing the prop changes EVERYTHING! So, the little bit of mixing I have put in to make the plane flyable for engine break-in and the "getting used to it" flights has been minimal:

15-3/4 pounds all up weight - no fuel in the tank
CG - 3" back from the leading edge at the wingtips (string used to mark the wings near fuselage)
rudder to elevator - 3% up for flat turns, we do way more rolling turns than knife edge, so I use flat turns to set this mix (Pete's suggestion), and it knife edges right on!
rudder to aileron - none.

After I get the NX 23x8 put on and my 4th gallon is through the engine, I'll start over with the trimming sequence and get everything right. Here's just the order of events.

Don’t skip ahead. The following sequence will ensure that each subsequent adjustment will have no effect on the previous adjustments. These are the building blocks of a trimmed aircraft in order: center of gravity (CG), dynamic balance (wingtip weight), thrust angle, aileron differential, THEN P-mixing (i.e. knife edge tracking, roll coupling, down-line tracking, etc.). Remember, if you change your propeller, everything changes!


I followed Tom's advice and got the LX because I liked the way it looked better! Now he offers IMAC wings with an airfoil that will snap and stall better...those come on the "Special." The LX tracks like an arrow and is perfect for 3D and IMAC maneuvers for me because I am not going to be flying Intermediate yet...if you're a hardcore IMAC flyer you should probably go with the Extra 260, a little bigger and is designed for IMAC, even though Bill Hempel won the Freestyle using it at his last contest.

Good luck and happy flying!

rare_bear

My Feedback: (1)

thanks for spending the energy in writing up this thread. i've got it bookmarked for future reference when i pick up one of these planes. just haven't decided on the LX or the special. but i do like the red/black/yellow color scheme.

Young-RCPilot

I Decided To Go With The Extra LX Because The Highest I Will Be Going In IMAC Will Probably Be Sportsmen And I Would Like To Do More 3D Then Fly The Sequence All The Time So The LX Is The Choice For Me Another Reason I Picked It Was Because I Will Be Installing A Canister In It.

rare_bear

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Flying Tiger,

Did you get the cabon fiber landing gear on your plane?

In post 46, it looks like you have the aluminum gear on. If you're planning to install carbon fibers, I'd be interested in a new weight measurement.

-RB

FlyinTiger

My Feedback: (45)

Don't worry, as the aircraft changes I will put updates on this review. I'll do the final RCU Magazine review once I've tried the CF gear and trimmed the plane completely.

No, I don't have the gear on the plane yet...still waiting on Brian at RCSuperGear.com to get it done. I'll post a new weight when it's in my hands.

rare_bear

My Feedback: (1)

thanks, i will stay tuned.

when i get this kirt, it will be my entry into gasoline powered engines.... so you'll have to excuse me if this is one of those "dumb questions"...

post number 22:
(and i will simply repost the images in this post so you don't have to travel backwards in this thread)

in the first picture, i added a red arrow with a label "A" pointing to the ignition module. i looks like you have the battery pack strapped down as well.

in the second picture, i have a red arrow with a label "B" pointing to what appears to be a batter module or housing.

did you end up moving the battery pack from point A to point B or leave it at point A?
maybe i'm confused and point B is not a battery pack at all???

FlyinTiger

My Feedback: (45)

It looks like you are pointing at my ignition battery regulator. Good question. I am running a Lithium-Ion battery on the ignition as well as on the receiver. I like the ease of charging, the great charge retention (doesn't discharge over time like NiCad or NiMh), light weight and the constant voltage that my aircraft is seeing from the time I first turn it on to the last flight of the weekend.

The batteries hardly show a voltage drop under load after a whole weekend of flying! [X(] I am using fail-safe regulated switches...if something goes wrong they fail in the "ON" position.

A: Ignition battery mounted on the motorbox

B: Regulator for ignition battery mounted inside the aircraft

sbaugz

My Feedback: (37)

I just ordered one from Wild Hare today with a DA-50. I forgot to ask Tom whether or not the Robert type hinges came with the ARF or not. Tom is gone until next week and I wanted to order some stuff while I wait. If someone can answer, please let me know. Thanks.

flatlandmike

My Feedback: (17)

yep the robart hinges come with the arf

FlyinTiger

My Feedback: (45)

Robart hinges will come already in the hinge holes, except for the rudder. These hinges are just sitting there though, you need to take them out, carefully trim any covering from around the hole that might be left over from the drilling, and then install the hinges using your favorite hinge glue (I like Gorilla) and the techniques associated with that glue.

sbaugz

My Feedback: (37)

So, how difficult and time consuming a process is it to dissassemble the plane for transport? I would assume it involves two screws to remove canopy, two screws to remove the wings and unplug the servos, then 4 screws to remove the horizontal stabs?

FlyinTiger

My Feedback: (45)

If you have to take the stabs off for transport then, yes it takes 2 screws and removing the linkage from each servo on each side (4 screws and 2 linkages total).

The wings are held onto the fuselage by two bolts and I use a hairpin on each side through the anti-rotation dowel in the rear as insurance. People have said their wing-bolts have vibrated out on occasion, though I've never had this problem.

I leave my stabs on for transportation, and this would be possible in most any vehicle larger than a midsize suv (i.e. bigger than a Trailblazer). It takes me about ten to fifteen minutes at the field to get everything out, put it all together, fuel it up, and do preflight checks so I am sure everything is tight and safe for the first flight of the day. I timed it so I would know how late I could fly before I had to clean up and put everything away to be home for dinner!

Here's a picture of the inside of my assembled fuselage. You can see the fishing line I use to keep those hairpins from wandering off, and the tips of the aft anti-rotation dowels.

Edit: You can also see the two socket head cap screws I use with big washers to hold the wings in place. Those come in the WH hardware kit with washers. The hatch is held in by two bolts that go through the side of the fuse and into two tabs that stick down into slots in the fuselage...pretty conventional. You could use BVM sliding hatch pins, that would be cool...you would have to make them fit tight so they wouldn't vibrate and cause problems, but they would be nice.

sbaugz

My Feedback: (37)

Thanks for the great answer! I have a jeep liberty and I think it will fit, it will just be really tight. After measuring, I will need to put both reat seats down and the front passenger seat will have to go all the way forward and then reclined back. The plane's tail will rest on top of the passenger seat. Needless to say, there will be no room for a passenger, which is fine because my wife never comes with to the field anyways. I can probably get away with leaving the tail together. Thanks.

FlyinTiger

My Feedback: (45)

sbaugz: get out the tape measure so you don't risk dinging your plane...the Jeep liberty might be a little too tight, but give it a shot...

Now it is time to pick pilots...the only two that were in my price range are from Aircraft International and Chip Hyde Products.

www.aircraftinternational.com under "accessories" "27-30% Pilots" scroll all the way down...

http://www.chiphyde.com/html/accessories/pilots.html

I don't like the Marlboro scheme, and they are $50 compared with Chip's $30 pilots...and my canopy is slightly tinted, so I need to go with a bright colored one, red is too plain. Here's pictures of these two...the only ones I found for less than $200!

Edit: must wait for photos to upload...oops.

sbaugz

My Feedback: (37)

Do you happen to have a weight difference between your stock aluminum gear and your supergear carbon fiber landing gear?

Is the gear sold by Troy Built models made by supergear or a different company? If its different, why did you decide to have them custom made by supergear rather than simply ordering the ones already made that troy built carries? Thanks.

FlyinTiger

My Feedback: (45)

Don't worry, when I get something done on my plane I will post it here...I am not going to abandon this thread.

TBM sells the Graphtec gear that is laminated in such a way that many people have had trouble with it "delaminating" or breaking in a short amount of time doing normal landings, nothing that would bend the aluminum gear. Read up in the threads about the Graphtec gear.

RCSuperGear is not custom making them for me alone, they are building a mold from the stock Wild Hare Extra aluminum gear and they are going to produce them for anyone who wants a set...they are made differently than other CF gear in that there isn't a laminating process. The RCSupergear are also airfoil shaped instead of just squared off at the edges. The gear will be available in the curved Extra shape and the straight legged gear for the Edge 540.

When I get mine I'll look over them and try to describe what they are like. I will post a weight and the difference between the aluminum and the CF gear. Right now my aluminum gear are doing fine, so I can wait for RCSupergear.

airborneSGT

My Feedback: (15)

What regulators are you using? I had one of the 10amp rated MPI fail on me.

FlyinTiger

My Feedback: (45)

Please actually read the review before you post a question...I listed my equipment on the first page about five posts down or so.

Duralite 6.0V Regulated Fail-Safe Switches, one on ignition, two on the receiver.

Please don't take it the wrong way, but if everyone asked their questions before reading the review, what is the sense in writing all that information anyway?

Edit: Duralite Regs are rated for 7.5 amps, Fromeco regulators rated for 10 amps, and Smartfly regulators are rated at 5 amps.

airborneSGT

My Feedback: (15)

Cool, yeah sorry I admit I was being lazy at midnight when I asked that! Nice build, Im putting one together in about 2 weeks.

Young-RCPilot

Well I ordered mine and I wont be getting it till late Augest or in September cause they don't have the LX in the colour I wanted . So FlyingTiger do you fly sportsmen with this plane if so how's the power with the DA 50 can it do Snaps on a vertical upline.

FlyinTiger

My Feedback: (45)

I'll let you know when I get back from Iraq...I should be leaving in two days. I am still breaking in the motor with it rich and only running the 22x8 NX prop. Time will tell, but I am pretty sure this thing is going to do anything I want it to.

PM "Silversurfer" and ask him about the upline snaps...he'll be able to give you an answer right away.