Levi_Jordan

My Feedback: (21)

Building your own VPP setup is actually much easier than you can imagine. You'll need to order some parts. The places, parts and Prices that I got mine are linked below: I Called Heli Proz and they have stockpiled the tail rotor assembleies for you all.

T-Rex Tail Rotor Assembly. Heli Proz Part #335237 $9.49 http://www4.mailordercentral.com/hel...?number=335237

5mm Ball link set Heli Proz #111025 (12) $7.99 http://www4.mailordercentral.com/hel...?number=111025

Hacker A20-34s (Will work on all A20 series) $72.95 http://www.hackerbrushless.com

Stainless Steel HOLLOW tubing. 3mm for Hacker 1/8" for Axi and E-flight $4-$14 http://www.smallparts.com/products/d...mgptx-gpsx.cfm

Carbon or music wire push/pull 1/16" $1.50 (Hobby Shops)

30/50 Tail Rotor Blades $ 6.99 http://www4.mailordercentral.com/hel...?number=102395

2 arm long servo horn $1.00 (Junk Box)

2-25 socket head screws and washers $2.50 (Hobby shops)

1/16" Wheel Collers $2.50 (Hobby Shops)

Dubro Ball link and connector $2.50 (Hobby shops)

2mm /10mm Socket head screws (2) $2.50 (Hobby Shops)

Levi_Jordan

My Feedback: (21)

The above setup is what I am building now for this thread. The Hacker A20-34s motor is intended to be used on 2 cells and a 8x4 prop. However..... 3 Cells and a 8x4HD prop REALLY SINGS! and the motor handles this without any heating up.

This is intended to be a power plant for indoor flying and will be installed on the 3D Foamy Mini SU-26 PRO airframe. If you use the larger Hacker motors, you'll simple need to cut the new hollow shaft longer to fit the longer can.

Levi_Jordan

My Feedback: (21)

Tail Rotor Set

Levi_Jordan

My Feedback: (21)

SS 3mm Hollow Shaft

Levi_Jordan

My Feedback: (21)

Start with the Hacker. remove the set screw on the fron of the motor can. The can is pressed onto the shaft, so do not try to pull the can off the shaft just yet. remove the E-clip off the back of the motor.

Levi_Jordan

My Feedback: (21)

After the E-clip is removed, the motor can and shaft can be slid from the Stator and endbell. A small amount of force will be needed to overcome the magnetic pull between the parts.

Levi_Jordan

My Feedback: (21)

To remove the shaft from the can, tap it out lightly with an awl or wood dowel. Mark the 3mm Tube to the same length as the original shaft.

Levi_Jordan

My Feedback: (21)

Use a Dremel tool or a hacksaw to cut off the 3mm hollow shaft at the mark. Bevel the end slightly with some sand paper to allow pressing back onto the bell.

Levi_Jordan

My Feedback: (21)

Lightly tap the new Hollow shaft into the Can.

Levi_Jordan

My Feedback: (21)

Slide the can and stator/endbell back together. You'll want to allow a 3/16" piece of the shaft to protrude from the rear of the can, and the remainder out the front. (3/16" not seen in this picture) This is for the rear collar shaft lock. Tighten the set screw on the shaft. It should be tightened a quarter turn past the first contact point. DON'T over tighten and crush the tube.

Levi_Jordan

My Feedback: (21)

Slide the Tail rotor set onto the shaft. It's a perfect fit for the 3mm shaft and no machining will be needed. Tighten the set screw on the shaft.

Levi_Jordan

My Feedback: (21)

Apply some white lithium greese to the inside of the blade holders. NOTE: These are BALL BEARING HOLDERS!!!! Not the cheapy stuff you see on the "Production" VPP stuff coming out.

Levi_Jordan

My Feedback: (21)

I used 1/16" SS rod for the pushrod. to 1/16" wheel collers on the end and a control horn. You NEED to get a bearing and drill out the inside of the control horn to match the bearing. Place a 1/16" ID washer on both sides of the bearing/Control horn. That unit gets sandwitched LIGHTLY between the 2 wheel collers. use a 2-56 button head screw to bolt the 2 ball ends onto the inside holes of your control horn assembly.

Levi_Jordan

My Feedback: (21)

Apply some white lithium greese to the control pushrod and slide it through the motor. Snap the ball ends onto the Pitch arms...

Levi_Jordan

My Feedback: (21)

Another shot. You can see the coller on the back of the motor in this one. This is needed to keep the shaft from pulling out of the end bell under the MASSIVE POWER!

Levi_Jordan

My Feedback: (21)

Thats it! It took me 20 minutes to make this one. and a HECK OF A LOT cheaper than the HL plastic set. Time for bed now... Tomarrow we'll mount the blades and setup the system on the plane.

flip3d454

My Feedback: (35)

looks sweet
lets see how it works.
what weight will it pull.

flip

flip3d454

My Feedback: (35)

what is the shaft made out of.

flip

Levi_Jordan

My Feedback: (21)

3mm Stainless Steel

Yogi

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Levi, I understand the need for the collar on the rear of the motor but wont the collar rub and bind up against the motor case if the shaft assy slips foward ? Thanks Yogi

Levi_Jordan

My Feedback: (21)

No, the bearin chase supports the collar. These collars are included in the parts when you purchase the Hacker Motor. It's to replace the e-clip when you reverse mount the motor. The E-clips pull off under the load when reversed.

JohnVH

My Feedback: (38)

Levi, do you know off hand what size the Himax shafts are?

Levi_Jordan

My Feedback: (21)

the 2808and 2812 series are .125 shafts.

wakle

Tnanks Levi,
I ordered the tail rotor parts and tubing. Where do we get the blades?
I had used roll pins for the .125 D AXI, but your solution is more elegant and also works on my 3 mm Hackers.
Wade

Levi_Jordan

My Feedback: (21)

The Blades I am using now are Raptor 30 Tail rotor blades with 3/8!QUOT! Trimmed off the TE of the blade. The Grips are sanded down to the thickness of the blade. Then the root is cut just on the outside of the existing 3mm holes. I Tapped both blades to each other and finish sanded the edges and tips. This step is critical to maintain the proper blade symmetry. I sanded the root a little more and then re drilled both blades (Stacked) for the New T-Rex tail rotor bolt holes. The 2mm socket cap screw then holds the blades in place....