pischla

Hi!

I haven't tried the #22 and don't know if it's harder on the controls, but if you move the swashplate by hand in every control direction you could see if there's any slop in the linkages. I guess it's the weight of the #35 that might make it feel a bit sluggish comparing to the smaller #22. I see a huge difference in flying my raptor and the #35.

warcmalla, are you saying that the rocker is hitting the top bearing holder?

/pischla

Greenbean

Hi pischla

Before I ever tried to lift off I made sure to get all the slop out of linkages by trimming the elevator linkage pushrods about 2mm off each of them and tightening the aileron linkage just to the point of binding then backed off one turn it all looked good no slop no binding. I have been looking at replacing the rotor head assembly with the CNC parts[link]http://www.helidirect.com/index.php?cPath=30_57[/link] do you think this might help sharpen up the control plastic parts seem to have some flex to them.[sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

warcmalla

One problem was the rocker hitting the frame at the bearing holder. The other problem was the linkage. In order to get the swashplate ballends to snap into the balllink from the rocker arm I had to move the shaft too much for my liking or put tension on the swashplate. I filled the holes with PC7 and relocated the bearing holes down about 1 millimeter, splitting the distance between the frame and the belt gear. I also took a little plastic off the frame where the rocker arm was hitting. I have reassembled most of these parts and found that the location of my bearing holes for the rocker arm allowed full range of motion, and only required the shaft to be moved up from its original location by a small amount.

NVSFlyer

War,

What you are feeling and seeing is most likely a combination of a few things. One your head speed may not be as fast as you are use to maybe due to the battery or too much pitch in the head. Also as stated you may have a lot of slop in the linkages I know when I got my 35 out of the box I did a complete rebuild on it. Good luck.

Greenbean

I got my 35 flying good now but am having a problem with the Elevator crank twisting when I try hard left or right aileron and it makes the heli go nose down.Can anyone tell me if they have seen a CNC part soled for the 35 I have seen them in the belt conversion kits never have I found one for just a 35 up grade.[:-]

NVSFlyer

Well I just completed the belt drive mod and all I can say is wow what a PITA to get this correct. I had to really mod my frame to get motion on the forward and aft axes. I still don't have full forward or aft but I believe I have enough I will find out today if I do. The belt part of the mod kit was pretty nice and didn't require a whole lot of mod I used a dremal on the tail belt sprocket...I cut the tabs down so that it would fit in the housing. If you plan to do this mod be prepared to take your helicopter all the way apart, the instructions that come with it don't explain how some of the things go you just have to use a lot of common sense when you put it together. I do have to say that the main and tail rotor are nice and smooth and I can't wait to see it fly.

NVSFlyer

Update, I ended up having to cut away some more of the frame to allow for a bit more travel on the swashplate. I've come to notice that a dremel is a must for this mod. I'm not sure if the 35's aren't made to specs but it seems some here have had zero problems with this mod and for me it was a pain but still well worth it. I still say overall even with the cost of upgrades this has been a pretty good investment and learning helicopter to use. It sure does take a beating and keeps going.

NVSFlyer

I've bought a set of Align 315mm and was wondering if anyone here is running blades this long. I've installed them and they have clearance I was just wondering if anyone has had any good or bad things to say about going larger blades.

fosterk

I brought a #35 and am regretting it. Seemed ok out of the box but stripped both plastic tail gears I had (at the motor end) and now have the metal ones on. Instead of stripping the gears it to breaks the carbon drive shaft, so am now thinking 'why oh why did I not buy a #36' How are you guys finding the belt dive kit? Does it make it a bit more reliable? Also replaced the tail pitch servo as the walkera one didn't seem to have enough grunt to move it as easily and quickly as it sould and I think the gyro was struggling because of this. The red light on the gyro flashes during flight, is this normal?

NVSFlyer

The red light will flash as you fly also I didn't use the electronics from Walkera. The 35 isn't a bad heli if you mod it slowly, the belt drive is a very nice upgrade take your time and do it correctly. If you read the past few pages here you will see some of the things you will have to mod up on your frame to get it all to work correctly. The way to look at the 35 is slowing upgrade all of your componets over the next few months then after you have all you need buy a Trex kit with motor and ESC and you will be good to go. Heli flying is a expensive hobby to do right from the start. Work you're way into it and ask questions here before you go buying anything it will save you a bit of money in the long run. Also if you buy the belt drive conversion depending on what motor you are running you will need to buy a new pinion for your motor. Let us know and we can help you out.

hanney

My Feedback: (1)

hi, i put all new servos in my heli, and now my stock battery cant handel the output.... what is a good battery and charget i can get to have my heli run good, and for a good amount of time.? thanks

colin

fosterk

No point in putting my brushless setup in if it can't handle the brushed power with out breaking! Running an 1800 lipo and all 9g servos having had no power problems Hanney? What sort of battery pack are you using?

As far as heli flying being expensive, electric choppers so far have been pretty cheap compare to the money I've thrown at airplanes, boats and cars over the years! Mind you, no big crashes yet. I think this heli would be great fun if I could just get the tail rotor power system to hold together.

I'm still keen to hear any reviews on the belt drive kit? Better reliability and performance?

kk23

I CANT GET MY MAIN ROTORS TO EVEN SPIN...i jus got the thing and i cant get the main rotors to do anything at all....can anyone help? its a walkera 35

kk23

ok nevermind.....i got the rotors to turn but it looses contact with the t.x sometimes and does w.e it wants. could this have somthin to do with the low tx batteries or the antenna not properly ran.. cause right now my antenna is wrapped around the skids....should it be out the back in a tube??

fosterk

Mine ran fine with the anttena on the skid. On one occasion when I first got it, was running it up in my lounge and it seemed to loose cotact with the transmitter and went crazy (resulting in loosing my first tail gear, shaft and tail blade carrier) and had to stop it by pulling the plug, otherwise it was fine. These things seem to be notorious for dodgy electronics though.

hanney

My Feedback: (1)

hi, i got all new servos uin hy heli, and now ican only get it just to have the heli to dance, but then it just dies, i think that the problem is the battery, what battery shuld i get to get flight time out of my heli?

nail-pounder

Get a 2200mAh 15C

NVSFlyer

Hanney 12c or above and for longer flight a 1500mAh or above. The 12c will have plenty of Amps to spin your motor even at 12c 1500mAh gives you a continous 18 Amps which is plenty for the 35. I run 12c 2200mAh and get almost 18mins of hover time on mine. Good luck

iamnew

Hello. i am new at the mini heli thing . just got the wakera dragonfly #36. watched battery charge, plug into heli test servos (all work) , but the blades don't spin. it just beeps, and has a constant red light on gyro. the light blinks when i move the servos, but can't get to "start". i checked to see if stuck or tight , but spin loose, just no power?

sorry if bit mumbly, but work all day come home to try new toy and just watch the servos move back and forth, sad.


lipo batt 1800mah (2), brushless, train kit(how it goes on i dunno), extra blades.

nail-pounder

iamnew, Does the receiver light flash or is it on steady? It should be on steady. If it is flashing, it means the receiver (rx) is not receiving a signal from the transmitter (tx). Chech that your transmitter is on. The bar scale on the tx should light all the way to green. You might have to move the rx antenna wire to get a better reception. Try to keep it away from other wires. They can cause interference with the radio. Check your motor connections. Also FYI, there is another thread that deals with the 36 exclusively. (Walkera #36) It is a long thread, 157 pages at present. Scan through the pages from page 1. Along the way you will find some detailed setup procedures. The heli needs to be set up properly before you begin to think of flying it. It is very important. Don't skip it. The radio as well as the mechanics of the heli need to be set up properly.

Al

nail-pounder

iamnew, Another thought, you note that you have a brushless motor. That means you have an electronic speed controller. (ESC) Has the esc been programmed yet? It might have to go through a programming phase before it will send power to the motor.

Al

iamnew

loosesned motor from main gear, spin up. but when i tried to get it to just hover a few inches one of the control arms (automotive term yes but same thing) came loose went side ways and broke a blade and stripped the gear.

sorry.... it was ready fine just gear too tight as mentioned above ( up in page not my post, must have over looked).

so now i order a gear and control arm linkage thing. do they make them in cnc aluminum for this heli? that would be the way to go.

ps even though it crashed, not entirly my fault, it was fun to hear it scream!

hanney

My Feedback: (1)

is there any aftermarket bodies that i can get? lik a full body? lik the bell 222? thanks alot
and i want to get a brushless, what shuld i get

nail-pounder

Hanney, here's a link for bodies: http://darthdrk.4t.com/

I have an Align 430L & 35A ESC combo from http://www.readyheli.com/ $99.00 inc. shipping.

Al

cdavis35

i just bought a dragonfly 35. my second heli and cant even figure out how the battery connects to it. there are three connections and my li. po. battery only has one that fits. there is a connection that came with it so i hooked it up how i thougt it should go and when i turned it on the blade just started going with the throttle all the way down. could someone help me out?