Crashnet2000

hi i need HELP big time !
i connected the new 4in1 today and the tailrotor does not want to spin when i turn to right but only to left ??? Why is that ?
Can some one provide a pic or some info on what needs to go to what on the 4in1 ? It seems the servos can be connected to both connectors but wich is the correct one ?

chench

Crashnet,
the one on the left goes inthe top socket and vice versa - if its right, pushing the cyclic left/right should make the swashplate tilt left/right and pushing the cyclic forward/back should make the swash tilt forward/back. I think
chench

chench

Wait, the servo one on the RIGHT goes in the TOP socket and vice versa - im sure this time

Crashnet2000

lets do like this.
the servo infront of the tailbom goes ?
and the servo next to that servo goes ?

chench

OK
the lead from the servo behind the main shaft goes in the bottom socket
the lead from the servo next to the motor shaft goes in the top socket

Crashnet2000

ahhh ok then it is connected correctly but why does not the tail motor spin to the right when i turn the stick to the right? it only work when turning to the left.

chench

Um. Does it work ok when you throttle up ie does its speed increase when you do so? Does the tail rotor's speed increase when you try to turn left?
thanks

voicedshotgun

My Feedback: (1)

Hey I'm extremely new to this helicopter flying business, I recently bought a heli and am able to fly it considerably well now without crashing, but the tail motor has quit on me! replaced it, looked over the electronics, and still no sign of life whatsoever from the tail, please help, i have no idea what it is. thanks in advance

tomcatguy74

My Feedback: (4)

Any ideas to the questions in my reply?

cardgabe

Crashnet,

Does the tail rotor spin when you leave the sticks at neutral and stop when you try to go right? Mine stops also, but that is how it is supposed to be I believe. That's just how it turns I think... it quits countering the main blade and lets it spin in that direction.... when turning the other way it should spin twice as fast so it can counterbalance it more and turn. I'm not sure if that made sense.

Anyway, I have a question, does anyone know the diameter of the tail boom? I found some aluminum rods that are very similar to the CF boom that comes stock, although it comes in 3 different diameters (7/32", 1/2", 9/32") Does anyone know which of these would be the correct diameter for the stock tail boom? I did the math and it adds up to 5.5mm, 6.35mm, or 7.14mm. For some reason I have a feeling that the stock boom is metric, not english measuring system and that this aluminum (very inexpensive) will not work. Thats my luck. Oh well... I'll try it and let everyone know because its very lightweight and looks shiny and awesome.

Goodluck everyone! By the way, I got my digital camera fixed so now I can upload some pics on an upcoming post of mine.

tjh1255

i have about 6 full flights on my heli, and the tail motor still works (fingers crossed), does the heat sink really help when it comes to preserving the life of the motors, main as well? or should i just run it till they quit and go brushless. Also will brushless motors work with the stock electronics or not?

Crashnet2000

like this ?

cptsnoopy

Look on the back of the transmitter. If the #1 switch is in the "on" position then that is correct when it comes from walkera. Since your tail rotor is working backwards (normally it would stop turning when you try to yaw the nose left and it would turn faster the more you try to yaw the nose right) you can try moving the switch to the other position compared to where it is now. That may or may not work because the gyro is also trying to work the tail rotor. good luck.

Crashnet2000

the switch is on, and it is behaving as you described.... i do not remeber it was like that when i got it Now to the biggest problem. The damn thing starts to tip to the right on lift off and spins to the left. I have tryed to setup the transmitter but no luck yet... Need some help on this.

chench

Oh curse i went an tripped on the stairs an bashed the transmitter and bust the aerial - my repairs only work within about 4 ft. Does anyone know where i can get a replacement? Your servo set up looks right Crashnet

Crashnet2000

yeah but now that little devil tryes to tip over on me and rotates to the left even if i balance everything and set up the transmitter...
This started after all the mods i done to it... Is it punishing me ??? I want to kick the living thing out of it right now !!!

chris6414

My Feedback: (10)

Tomcatguy74,

The binding in the grips is most likely causing your vibs. You can't get rid of them all but most will cancel out once it's spooled up. I can tell you the stock packs are short on time and power. You'll get about 5 minutes time on them. I upgraded to an 11.1v 860 mah lipo for mine and it even fits in the stock mount and weighs about 25 grams less than the stock ones. I have a charger on the way so I haven't tried it yet. The stock packs just don't get enough head speed to get good power. By good power I mean. if your falling, I want to be able to throttle up to control my descent. The stock packs just don't give you that. One thing I noticed also is that the packs need to be run through a few cycles to get up to some capacity. I also wouldn't leave them on the charger for more than 1 1/2 hours. These packs will get roasting hot. I charge mine till they just start to get really warm. You'll get a good first few minutes if you bump them up just before you fly. I have a converter in my car so i can bump them on the way to the park I fly at. Hopefully with the LiPo I'll have the power I desire. I can tell you that you need your battery all the way to the front to balance right and the blade pitch is crucial. I couldn't get any lift with mine when I got it and now with a fresh pack it will climb to 50 ft without a problem. It just needed a little blade twist to take out some of the pitch and get the head speed up. If you get a nose turn to the left, you have too much pitch in the mains. I have mine almost center rudder trim now and it will hover straight. Getting it down at the right pace is the trick which is why I wanted the LiPo.

With no wind these things can hover nicely but they do need constant attention just like any other helo. I would also definately move your control rods in two holes on the servo arms. I have flown larger gas helos before and these little birds are sure touchy. On FMS, if you can fly the 3 D, you'll be alright. The #4 is not quite as touchy or near as responsive as that helo. Pull your crystal and your batteries will last longer. I would use NiMhs in your transmitter. Mine are 2250 mahs and they sure last. Best of luck and use your trainer gear if it came with it. A little protection in a crash. Oh yeah, If your going IN,[X(] try like hell to get your rotors level and kill the throttle just before you hit so it doesn't try to tear itself apart once it hits.[:@] I'll post my LiPo results as soon as I get to try it out.

tomcatguy74

My Feedback: (4)

gysgt6414,

Thanks for the info, I have 4 holes on my servo arms and the rods are currently connected to the second from the most outboard hole. What will happen if i move the rod in a few holes or out to the last hole?
What are these grips you are talking about with the binding?
Right now I am flying in my living room. Its about 12x12 area and I am working on just gettong it to hover perfectly. I have had it up in a stable and centered hover for 7 seconds but only one time. I have aready used up my spare graphite flybar and my training gear is now starting to be held on with micro zipties. I have been using my Phophet Plus charger that i use for my 1/18th scale RC cars and I have been watching the batts and letting them peak twice before I use them. I believe i have the rotor pretty much balanced just by making sure I have them lined up straight. Its a pain when you spend the extra time and battery power getting the balance just perfect and then you takoff and it flies into a wall!!! HAHA![:@] I have been using the sim as much as I can but I feel like its helping but not much. I am using the Dragonfly model I found on a Dragonfly help page and I am wondering if its anything like the real deal.
Now I was wondering about these "foam" blades I have. They are more aerodynamic than the stock blades and they are not as curved as the stock blades. I was wondering if I should try them or wait till I smash the stock blades first. They look like they have wood inside them. I am wondering if they are balsa wood covered in plastic. They are lighter than the black stock blades too. They come with the installation hareware too so they are ready to go whenever.
Have you or anyone out there added pitch to the flybar paddles for lift or should they be completely straight with the swash plate?

Again thanks for the help and I will keep you all informed of my quest to be a decent heli pilot!!

Rob

thecheatscalc

hey I have a pair of those, got em for $2.40 anyways my 36 was able to take off using those.... just stuck them right on and they worked great, they are foam and aren't wood at all, if they are I dont know what kind as they aren't balsa, too light. now about that flybar, why don't you get a metal one? you can bend those back.

tomcatguy74

My Feedback: (4)

Sup Cheat!

How well did those blades hold up to impacts opposed to the plastic ones? Do you have to be more careful with them? Also, did they make the heli more stable at all?

About those metal flybars, won't they affect the performance if they are not bent back perfectly?
I don't know. Are they cheaper than graphite?


Rob

chris6414

My Feedback: (10)

The grips I'm refering to are the place where the blades bolt on to. If they are too tight it'll wobble from the blades unable to straighten themselves out. I moved my control rods in one more space than your setup to slow down the control input a little. The foam blades are called "practice blades" that come with the newer kits. I doubt they would hold up to hitting a tree which is what my stock ones have sunstained.
I also destroyed my stock flybar and went to an aluminum pushrod i had lying around and it worked great. I wouldn't adjust the flybar paddles. They are for control of the rotor arc and need to be level with the swashplate. The weights are also useful to soften control inputs. As you get better you can move them in and the control input will become faster and more crisp. How long are you getting for flight times? I usually get 4-5 minutes of hover time before it gets stuck in the ground effect. I can't wait for my LiPo charger to get here![&o]

tomcatguy74

My Feedback: (4)

gysgt6414,

I am getting about 5-7 mins of hover time(when I can hover and not put it in the floor)
I would say I get about 3 mins of FULL POWER time.
Hey I was wondering, will a wire hanger make a good flybar or are they too thick?
I tried mounting the foams on and bent one doing it so I said forget it they are too easy to break.
How long have you been flying helis? Will changing my rods help me learn to hover easier?

tjh1255

Can i use brushless motors and LiPo batteries with the stock electronics?

chris6414

My Feedback: (10)

I would use a 2-56 aluminum control rod like I did. They absorb impact with the blades and bend back straight easier. Steel hanger might be adding too much weight and won't give on impact with something. I'm getting about the same performance as you are. I have been flying planes since 1992 and had flown helicopters(nitro) a few few times during that time to see what it was like. I used to own a GMP Cricket from 1982. Fixed pitch, .28 engine, no gyro and used 4 servos. I loved that thing but I could never find parts for it anymore so I sold it. I really had wished I kept it. I have recently flown my friends Raptor a few times. That helo flies really nice a stable but is much too expensive for my wallet right now. I've had my #4 for about a month now and am loving it. It fits in my front seat and I can pull it out almost anywhere and fly without all the field equipment of a Nitro.

Moving your rods in another hole will slow down your control inputs so if you pull hard on the stick, the helo will respond a little slower to allow for your reaction to correct what is happening. This is good if you are learning so as not to over compensate as much. However, if you get into trouble, your attempts to get rotors level and descend are slowed as well. You can also move your weights in on the flybar a little to increase your control input speed. I moved mine in halfway and the time from input-to- movement increased 2 fold at least. I have since returned them to max outboard to allow for my learning curve. I plan on moving mine control rods out one more hole to get a little more response as I'm starting to get better.

To answer tjh 1255, I'm not sure. I think others in this thread have done what you want to do, but I think they had upgraded the speed control or got a new 4 in 1 to handle the increased current. I have a LiPo I'm going to try with the stock set-up and others rave about the increased performance with decreased weight. I'm sticking with the brushed motors until I get better. I have some home made heat sinks for now but that will be my next purchace to get a little more performance out of these little motors. They sure do get hot after some run time. Stick with it, and this touchy little bird will feel smoother as you go. Mine went a little crazy when it caught a breeze and I had to reach up an grab the boom to keep it from hitting a tree![X(]

tomcatguy74

My Feedback: (4)

gysgt6414,

How long did it take you to learn how to hover the DF? Where did you do your flying when you were learning?
How much did you spend on parts during your learning?