skooba68

there should a little piece of fuel hose on the end of the rotor shaft to hold everything on.

batfalcon

Is that silicon tube installed on the shaft or not? It should be there to hold the gear in place. If it's not try a fuel hose from alocal hobby shop. If neither this is available try to wrap a small rubber band many many times on this little shaft. The shaft itself has to be free to rotate in the bearings, but the gear IS NOT fixed on the shaft.

GTX SlotCar

The weight should be OK. An hour to charge a LiPo pack is too general. Maybe a little over an hour for a 1000mah battery at 1 amp, but 1800mah would take quite a bit longer. On a full charge, you should be at 8.4v. If you're not getting that, something is wrong. Have you measured the voltage coming out of the charger?

helirook

The voltage coming out of the charger is indeed 8.4 volts Gary. And, after slightly recalibating my meter, the NO LOAD freshly charged pack is reading 8.4 volts. But, I'm still not getting more than a few minutes of flight duration before the bird just skitters in ground effects. I'm going to try to cut the weight back to stock just to prove a point to myself. Let's face it though, we are lowering our operating voltage (vs. the stock pack) while still maintaining the same weight. The pack's capacity in mah only affects (or should) flight duration. The motor's driving force is still the battery's voltage.
I did explain this to Jean and he doesn't warrant these units which sincerely blows but that's life.

skooba68

Wow , just had our second hail storm in 7 days. Should have tried to fly in it but I was to busy putting blankets on my truck to absorb the impact. Some 3/4 golf ball size hit. There are paintless dent repair places popping up all over town.[X(]

batfalcon

A few pages up in this forum Gary described a mechanical equivalent of these 2 battery packs. You are right about the pack's capacity, but you haven't realized that the Lipo pack can deliver much more Amps in given time, thus having a lighter pack, even with less voltage CAN make your heli fly better, cause you have more juice comming out of this pack. Of course between equal weighted packs of 2 vs 3 cells, no doubt that 3 cells is the winner.

f4j

Yes it is. I've tried adding two more, no change.




It is. Were it not the gear and rotor would just fly off. My problem is that the cog, the gear is slipping of the motor.

GTX SlotCar

It sounds like either the pinion gear is slipping on the motor, or the pins on the back of the tail rotor (that go into the large tail gear) are sheared off.

Hipsi

Just a quick one, does anyone know the purpose of the collars on the flybar? I have actually removed mine and used one to fix the tail rotor in place.

Trav

Mazta

Sup peeps,

how can i increase head speed without clipping blades, my heli wobbles and it cant be anything other than **** head speed, so how can i sort this out,

cheers

davetay

Hi All - I'm a newbie to the Heli scene - My first thoughts on the Walkera 4

I think I'm enjoying the very steep learning curve - I've only really flown Zagi's a few years back.

This forum is a great help, many thanks to you all..... I'm currently at the stage of getting my Walkera 4 in the air for a few seconds just to see how she reacts, or how I do.
It's doing the expected, flying to the left which I can correct but then dump it back on the ground in a controlled brick falling with style maneuver.

I'm waiting for my software to arrive, been using the crash kit which I'm grateful for and have a few landing gear spares on order, had a few minor breakages.
Have only practiced in a small garden area which is not ideal.

Wanted to share a few points noted which I hope may be of use to other newcomers.

Have found from other users comments... that tilting the stabilizer wing has helped.
...changing the servo links in 2 notches did not, (I couldn't compensate enough to get the heli to take off straight, I may have a problem here?)
Haven't clipped the blades yet - seems 'drastic' but can see how it would help.
Ordered extra Lipo batteries and charger.
Amazed how bad the manual is (since found a great link on the forum).. especially when telling you to switch the Heli on before the receiver.

Couple of questions if anyone can spare the time.

Dip Switch 4 is throttle, I have to have mine set to off and have the thrust reversed (down is full power).
If I switch the dip switch to on I get nothing. Gone full up on the lever (which is scary indoors) and down again.. nothing, switch back to off on the radio and I can 'fly' with left stick reversed.
An ideas? Not an expect at electronics so haven't opened up the radio.

So I'm
1 - on
2 - off
3 - on
4 - off !!

rest off

Also is it possible to get more robust parts say for landing gear, the parts are cheap but would rather pay treble for machined alu parts.

Apologies for the long post.

Happy Flying
Happy new year to all.

GTX SlotCar

They add a little mas to the outside of the flybar to make the heli more stable for hovering.

GTX SlotCar

Switch 4 ON, move the throttle trim to the bottom, make sure throttle stick is also to the bottom and then turn on the Heli. There is a safety circuit on the newer DF4s that require throttle to be at minimum before the Rx will allow the heli to run.
Try it and see if it fixes the problem.

Hipsi

AHH, right, guess I should put them back on then.

davetay

Cheers - hadn't tried loweing the trim. Will give it another go when I've rebuilt my landing gear.

Regards
Davetay

crashn_bernstein

Super Skids Please !!

Gary, sent you an email to [email protected], but i got a 'delivery delay' notification.

Did you get the email? I would like to order 2. They look like just the cure for all the broken skids i've been having.

Thanks, this forum rocks.!

[email protected]

chris6414

My Feedback: (10)

Back to the repair shop. Installed 3 diodes in the tail to help keep my tail cooler and was going to do a test hop when I forgot that i used the same radio to test one of my planes the day prior. Needles to say that the throttle was reversed and had no response before I got to max( good PHA-01 safety) and it took off like a rocket when it spooled up and screemed when I pulled it back and it didn't stop. I smacked it to the ground with my hand thinking I may have an uncontrolled helo on my hands. It hit the deck hard on it's side and took out the mains and sheared the pin in the rotor shaft. Must have been that new motor and 8 tooth pinion I just installed[:@]. Anyway, I had a spare set of blades and nothing else seemed to be damaged. Well, I didn't have any safety wire to replace the pin so I used a small brad nail that I rounded down with my dremel till it fit. Hover tested and it's holding and the diodes worked at keeping the tail much cooler. My 3S LiPo without the diodes got that tail smoking hot even with a heat sink.[:'(] Haven't tested tail response to see if it is slower than without the diodes. It is most likely a tad slower but it holds.

Current configuration:

2CM clipped mains
Thunder Power 860 MAH 3S
8 tooth Pinion on main motor
PHA-01 3 in 1
Futaba FP-R114H Receiver

xrapidx

Hi Guys

I'm having a problem with my rear motor, it keeps stopping & starting, I'm not sure if its something to do with the actual motor or with the wiring, etc. Anyone know what I could check? I'd hate to go buy a new motor, wait two weeks, and find out its not the motor.

What happens is sometimes the motor just won't work. and if I move the blade a bit or fiddle with the wires it seems fine again, but obviously if it stops working in mid flight the heli goes into a tail spin. Not good in doors.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. []

Regards
Brett

Mazta

any ideas on my last post, to increase head speed,

f4j

The gear is slipping off the motor. What should I do ?
(Yes I checked the motor screws)

GTX SlotCar

You could try gluing it on with CA (superglue) or Loctite. Clean the motor shaft with alcohol (rubbing alcohol, not Jack Daniels). Let it dry for a few hours after the CA is applied and be careful not to get any between the shaft and the bushing.

f4j

Gah! I'm still not explaining this properly.
The big black cog, that sits on the shaft, that the rotor clips onto is slipping off the cog on the end of the motor.
Thus the rotor is inconsistant and I lose control.

GTX SlotCar

OK, the big gear slips over a shaft, the tail rotor slips over the shaft and snaps into the big gear (it's really called a spur gear), and a small rubber tube slips over the shaft and pushes against the tail rotor. I don't know what you mean by "slipping off". Do you mean the spur gear and pinion gear don't line up? Or, they aren't tight enough together (gears don't mesh properly)?

crashn_bernstein

Gary, super skids please

this is a bump for post 1292

[email protected]

skooba68

The motor has some adjustment in it if you loosen the screws you can move it some. Do you have both bearings in place? and the black plastic gear has the 2 collars sticking out. One on each side of the hole. one side doesn't stick out as far, mount it with this side towards the tail boom, also make sure the rotor is seated firmly against the gear.