WALKERA 60
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RE: WALKERA 60
Trireme,
THANK YOU!!![8D]
That's exactly what I needed to do. I don't really understand some of this new radio technology but I'm trying to learn. Mixing is what I needed to change. I took the Swash E (elevator) setting from +50% to -50% and now it works perfectly!!! I don't have a clue about settings? I know JD and some others throw 60/50/90 type stuff around but it's all foreign to me? The swash looks like it's working similar to the Walkera 701 but with less total throw movement of the servo arms?
I guess I'll need R/C radios for dummies?
THANK YOU!!![8D]
That's exactly what I needed to do. I don't really understand some of this new radio technology but I'm trying to learn. Mixing is what I needed to change. I took the Swash E (elevator) setting from +50% to -50% and now it works perfectly!!! I don't have a clue about settings? I know JD and some others throw 60/50/90 type stuff around but it's all foreign to me? The swash looks like it's working similar to the Walkera 701 but with less total throw movement of the servo arms?
I guess I'll need R/C radios for dummies?
ORIGINAL: trireme
Can you type up the settings your using? I assume you need to change the mixing..
Can you type up the settings your using? I assume you need to change the mixing..
#6153
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RE: WALKERA 60
Great... glad to hear....
The 50, is actually 50% mixing to that servo. You can increase the mixng to make it more sensitive... I have been using 75% and it gives me good response... 75, 75, -75. When I was learning to hover, I liked 60%.
Personally, now that I am comfortable with it, I want the swash lean at far as it can before the servos bind.... So you can mess with the settings to see how much you get... and then test a few settings to see what feels good for your current level of flight.
The 50, is actually 50% mixing to that servo. You can increase the mixng to make it more sensitive... I have been using 75% and it gives me good response... 75, 75, -75. When I was learning to hover, I liked 60%.
Personally, now that I am comfortable with it, I want the swash lean at far as it can before the servos bind.... So you can mess with the settings to see how much you get... and then test a few settings to see what feels good for your current level of flight.
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RE: WALKERA 60
MBhull,
Since every heli is different we can give starting settings based on your flying ability and then when you test it and tell us how the heli is acting we can give you additional settings to fine tune it.
The higher (or higher negitive if you have one that is negative) swash settings will give you more throw. Also you can increase the endpoints to give more throw.
The pitch curve will be dependant on how your main rods from the swash are set in combination with little pitch rods, that you use to set tracking. Once you get the heli so it will start to lift at mid stick with a 50% in the mid point of your pitch curve by adjusting the rods you are almost done setting the pitch. For normal mode the low end pitch setting will be maybe 30 to start and if you feel your slamming down to hard you will raise that number to give you less negative pitch. Or if you can't get it to come down fast enough you can lower the bottom number in the pitch curve. For the top number you might try 80 and if its not getting away from you you can raise it as long as you don't give it so much maximum pitch that when you give it full up your tail can't hold the torque. If it is getting away you can lower it (5 points at a time maybe) but you will not want to lower so far that you can't pull up when you are coming down fast. The combination of swash settings and gyro settings is based on your ability and your equipment and your throttle curve and pitch curve. They all interact. So we give a mellow starting point and adjust from there.
JD
Since every heli is different we can give starting settings based on your flying ability and then when you test it and tell us how the heli is acting we can give you additional settings to fine tune it.
The higher (or higher negitive if you have one that is negative) swash settings will give you more throw. Also you can increase the endpoints to give more throw.
The pitch curve will be dependant on how your main rods from the swash are set in combination with little pitch rods, that you use to set tracking. Once you get the heli so it will start to lift at mid stick with a 50% in the mid point of your pitch curve by adjusting the rods you are almost done setting the pitch. For normal mode the low end pitch setting will be maybe 30 to start and if you feel your slamming down to hard you will raise that number to give you less negative pitch. Or if you can't get it to come down fast enough you can lower the bottom number in the pitch curve. For the top number you might try 80 and if its not getting away from you you can raise it as long as you don't give it so much maximum pitch that when you give it full up your tail can't hold the torque. If it is getting away you can lower it (5 points at a time maybe) but you will not want to lower so far that you can't pull up when you are coming down fast. The combination of swash settings and gyro settings is based on your ability and your equipment and your throttle curve and pitch curve. They all interact. So we give a mellow starting point and adjust from there.
JD
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RE: WALKERA 60
Thanks JD and Trireme,
I think I'm starting to understand a little. I have 50a, -50e and 50p right now (is this the correct order?). I just got done with two hovers in my living room, (it's softball season and dark outside now). They went uneventful just a little more slippery with no training gear - it got the slam dunk last crash. It feels a little sluggish on the controls but I noticed my swash only moves about 70% as compared to the Walkera 701. It was pretty docile and handled very well but can be a bit slow when the wind currents in the house catch up to the blade and I have to use more control than before to correct and stabilize.
Pretty happy to be learning again!!
I think I'm starting to understand a little. I have 50a, -50e and 50p right now (is this the correct order?). I just got done with two hovers in my living room, (it's softball season and dark outside now). They went uneventful just a little more slippery with no training gear - it got the slam dunk last crash. It feels a little sluggish on the controls but I noticed my swash only moves about 70% as compared to the Walkera 701. It was pretty docile and handled very well but can be a bit slow when the wind currents in the house catch up to the blade and I have to use more control than before to correct and stabilize.
Pretty happy to be learning again!!
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RE: WALKERA 60
I had mine at 50 for a while, with servo ball at the last hole on the arm, which seemed to give me a lot more torque. But I just switched it back about a week ago, dealing with my vibration issues..... I noticed that have using the last hole increased the amount of play in the horn, which translated to less stable...
So no I am 3 holes out, at 75%. It is very repsonsive, but more stable. I still have some vibration, I have to keep the gyro at around 60%, but its flyable.
So no I am 3 holes out, at 75%. It is very repsonsive, but more stable. I still have some vibration, I have to keep the gyro at around 60%, but its flyable.
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RE: WALKERA 60
Trireme,
For me it's long long time no post. Too much other stuff been getting in the way. Heli been parked under a bed for too long now... I kept reading everyone else's posts though.
So, anyway, before my "rest" I was thinking of going to the end holes in the horns too, so maybe I could get nearer to say +/-11° and still have something left for cyclic. Not that I need it, it just made sense to me to have the heli mechanically capable of 3D, with maximum non-binding range, but calmed by my DX6 settings.
But now reading your post I'm not so sure. Are you saying you're on the stock servos and getting your low frequency swash rock from the extra free play when you use the end holes? And on lesser holes do you get a full pitch range, or do you have it mechanically offset like me for say -4 to +12 or something?
This matters because next time I power her up I meant to really sort the pitch and throttle curves to get lower and constant(ish) head speed. Don't want to keep re-doing this for different holes... If only I the ElfHobby had been a governor ESC I!!!
Cheers, BB.
For me it's long long time no post. Too much other stuff been getting in the way. Heli been parked under a bed for too long now... I kept reading everyone else's posts though.
So, anyway, before my "rest" I was thinking of going to the end holes in the horns too, so maybe I could get nearer to say +/-11° and still have something left for cyclic. Not that I need it, it just made sense to me to have the heli mechanically capable of 3D, with maximum non-binding range, but calmed by my DX6 settings.
But now reading your post I'm not so sure. Are you saying you're on the stock servos and getting your low frequency swash rock from the extra free play when you use the end holes? And on lesser holes do you get a full pitch range, or do you have it mechanically offset like me for say -4 to +12 or something?
This matters because next time I power her up I meant to really sort the pitch and throttle curves to get lower and constant(ish) head speed. Don't want to keep re-doing this for different holes... If only I the ElfHobby had been a governor ESC I!!!
Cheers, BB.
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RE: WALKERA 60
ORIGINAL: bbstrikesagain
Trireme,
For me it's long long time no post. Too much other stuff been getting in the way. Heli been parked under a bed for too long now... I kept reading everyone else's posts though.
So, anyway, before my "rest" I was thinking of going to the end holes in the horns too, so maybe I could get nearer to say +/-11° and still have something left for cyclic. Not that I need it, it just made sense to me to have the heli mechanically capable of 3D, with maximum non-binding range, but calmed by my DX6 settings.
But now reading your post I'm not so sure. Are you saying you're on the stock servos and getting your low frequency swash rock from the extra free play when you use the end holes? And on lesser holes do you get a full pitch range, or do you have it mechanically offset like me for say -4 to +12 or something?
This matters because next time I power her up I meant to really sort the pitch and throttle curves to get lower and constant(ish) head speed. Don't want to keep re-doing this for different holes... If only I the ElfHobby had been a governor ESC I!!!
Cheers, BB.
Trireme,
For me it's long long time no post. Too much other stuff been getting in the way. Heli been parked under a bed for too long now... I kept reading everyone else's posts though.
So, anyway, before my "rest" I was thinking of going to the end holes in the horns too, so maybe I could get nearer to say +/-11° and still have something left for cyclic. Not that I need it, it just made sense to me to have the heli mechanically capable of 3D, with maximum non-binding range, but calmed by my DX6 settings.
But now reading your post I'm not so sure. Are you saying you're on the stock servos and getting your low frequency swash rock from the extra free play when you use the end holes? And on lesser holes do you get a full pitch range, or do you have it mechanically offset like me for say -4 to +12 or something?
This matters because next time I power her up I meant to really sort the pitch and throttle curves to get lower and constant(ish) head speed. Don't want to keep re-doing this for different holes... If only I the ElfHobby had been a governor ESC I!!!
Cheers, BB.
I haven;t been flying much either, I have gotten most of the helis vibration down, but it still isnt great. I think the problem must be the airframe... and I am in a debate with myself whether I am beating a dead horse, I can definitely do a full over haul on it cheaper then getting a different airframe all together.. but lets just say the 450SA has a bit of my attention the past few weeks.
I just like that the TREX frame seems to keep the frame more square, and not allow for the bends in the airframe I have in my 60. Taken apart, all my parts look ok, but put together, it has some lean, doesnt perfectly level anymore, and that has got to make the vibration worse. So I assume all the screw holes in the frame are a little bent from an old crash, and just cant be bend back anymore....
The best thing would really be if there was an airframe upgrade for the DF60, or one for a different heli that could run the 60s parts. Does anyone know a could 2D machine shop? Maybe I can layout a TREX style frame in CAD that is adjusted to fit the df60 gear and belt... why has nobody tried?
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RE: WALKERA 60
So here is a video with the servos balls adjusted back to the third whole...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vezfKN9Pvro
You can compare it to this one, which is with it on the furthest whole...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2iQzksdZNCc
And Last, a new video of the lastest vibration test. I flew it a moment ago, and it is more stable, definitely flyable, but not as good as it should be. I think my 10c batteries are killing me too, once the battery is about half full, if I land, the motor has a hard time locking the governor... makes it straight thru flight though if I dont land.... If I switch to stunt mode on the ground, with negative pitch the governor will lock, and I can take off... but that sucks
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xa3Qnx64ak8
Now my belt it running of the guide again... dawm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vezfKN9Pvro
You can compare it to this one, which is with it on the furthest whole...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2iQzksdZNCc
And Last, a new video of the lastest vibration test. I flew it a moment ago, and it is more stable, definitely flyable, but not as good as it should be. I think my 10c batteries are killing me too, once the battery is about half full, if I land, the motor has a hard time locking the governor... makes it straight thru flight though if I dont land.... If I switch to stunt mode on the ground, with negative pitch the governor will lock, and I can take off... but that sucks
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xa3Qnx64ak8
Now my belt it running of the guide again... dawm
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RE: WALKERA 60
Trireme,
Very interesting videos. You still get movement either way, I wonder if Trex heads move like that? I wonder if it is in part due to the quality of the servo's since it moves on the inner holes also.
When you power up without the main blades does the tail rotor hold the heading? I never tried it or can't remember, it's been a long time since I powered up with no main blades, at least I think I must have at one time or another.
JD
Very interesting videos. You still get movement either way, I wonder if Trex heads move like that? I wonder if it is in part due to the quality of the servo's since it moves on the inner holes also.
When you power up without the main blades does the tail rotor hold the heading? I never tried it or can't remember, it's been a long time since I powered up with no main blades, at least I think I must have at one time or another.
JD
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RE: WALKERA 60
It does get movement either way, but I would say less with the middle whole...
I would assume the trex would be the same, with the same servos....
It holds the tail about as well as with the blades. Basiclly I need to make corrects as I change speeds, but then it will hold once I am up to speed....
I think the frame is just too flexible, so it magnifies all the little things...
I would assume the trex would be the same, with the same servos....
It holds the tail about as well as with the blades. Basiclly I need to make corrects as I change speeds, but then it will hold once I am up to speed....
I think the frame is just too flexible, so it magnifies all the little things...
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RE: WALKERA 60
Went flying tonight, the heli is working pretty good, even with the vibration, I have some wag during hover, but not during FF. My belt keeps hopping one of the rollers... but it is in great condition, I will be trying to flip it over, that worked before, and I think it needs tightening.... has anyone had much success adjusting the boom to tighten the belt?
The thing that has really got me ticked, my pinion is breaking again, hasnt broken yet, but looks about too... I haven't seen this on any other post with ANY heli.... I am starting think its the motor.... Is there any way to check the motor? Other then replacing it "to see".
The thing that has really got me ticked, my pinion is breaking again, hasnt broken yet, but looks about too... I haven't seen this on any other post with ANY heli.... I am starting think its the motor.... Is there any way to check the motor? Other then replacing it "to see".
#6166
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RE: WALKERA 60
Hi, could someone tell me where the servos etc plug into which part of the receiver, on my 60 it has the RX607 6 channel reciever but the manual only shows the WK-701 7 channel receiver?
gabbyb3 my manual says dipswitchs for 60#'s are 1 off, 2 on, 3 off, 4 on, 5 off, 6 off, 7 on, 8 on, 9 on, 10 off, 11 off, 12 off.
dipswitchs for 60#b and 60#c's are 1 on, 2 on, 3 off, 4 on, 5 off, 6 off, 7 on, 8 on, 9 off, 10 off, 11 off, 12 off. Hope this helps. The manual isn't very helpful i'm afraid.
gabbyb3 my manual says dipswitchs for 60#'s are 1 off, 2 on, 3 off, 4 on, 5 off, 6 off, 7 on, 8 on, 9 on, 10 off, 11 off, 12 off.
dipswitchs for 60#b and 60#c's are 1 on, 2 on, 3 off, 4 on, 5 off, 6 off, 7 on, 8 on, 9 off, 10 off, 11 off, 12 off. Hope this helps. The manual isn't very helpful i'm afraid.
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RE: WALKERA 60
yes actually i am in need of the same thing where wich servo goes into the reciever and also am i able to use my micro servo JR R610m on this bird or am i goin to need a ccpm reciever? this jr is ppm i believe.....
thanks guys
thanks guys
#6168
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RE: WALKERA 60
I'm new to the #60, and bought the 12v nimh package, with 2 extra batts, but they won't even lift the weight. I got about 3 charges out of them. So I tried a 2100 lipo which weighs around 180g, and it seems to bring the heli to life, but the revs are high and I was wondering if I was straining it with the battery of that size....what is the usual size that you guys use?
I was thinking of trying a 1800 because of the weight, but I don't have one available at the moment. Would it be worth trying?
Thanks, Adrian
I was thinking of trying a 1800 because of the weight, but I don't have one available at the moment. Would it be worth trying?
Thanks, Adrian
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RE: WALKERA 60
I personally am using the 2000 15C rating lipo as well as a 1800 15C lipo. They seem to work just fine!
My question to you is: Are you using a brushed or brushless motor? If you are using a lipo on a stock brushed motor you are going to shorten the life of the motor.
It is best to go Lipo with brushless motor and ESC with BEC for servo power.
At least that is my opinion!
Michael
My question to you is: Are you using a brushed or brushless motor? If you are using a lipo on a stock brushed motor you are going to shorten the life of the motor.
It is best to go Lipo with brushless motor and ESC with BEC for servo power.
At least that is my opinion!
Michael
ORIGINAL: oilyamps
I'm new to the #60, and bought the 12v nimh package, with 2 extra batts, but they won't even lift the weight. I got about 3 charges out of them. So I tried a 2100 lipo which weighs around 180g, and it seems to bring the heli to life, but the revs are high and I was wondering if I was straining it with the battery of that size....what is the usual size that you guys use?
I was thinking of trying a 1800 because of the weight, but I don't have one available at the moment. Would it be worth trying?
Thanks, Adrian
I'm new to the #60, and bought the 12v nimh package, with 2 extra batts, but they won't even lift the weight. I got about 3 charges out of them. So I tried a 2100 lipo which weighs around 180g, and it seems to bring the heli to life, but the revs are high and I was wondering if I was straining it with the battery of that size....what is the usual size that you guys use?
I was thinking of trying a 1800 because of the weight, but I don't have one available at the moment. Would it be worth trying?
Thanks, Adrian
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RE: WALKERA 60
Sorry, I should have mentioned that....it is the stock brushed motor. I have an Align brushless 400 that I might be able to fit the drive gear to....& I have some brushless esc's....maybe I should consider that option. I don't mind if the stock motor wears early, as long as it doesn't take the esc with it!
Thanks,
Adrian
Thanks,
Adrian
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RE: WALKERA 60
http://www.cnchelicopter.com/servlet...3D-ccpm/Detail
Has anyone seen this site? It looks like some good deals on knock off CNC helis and parts.
Has anyone seen this site? It looks like some good deals on knock off CNC helis and parts.
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RE: WALKERA 60
http://www.rc-tek.com
JD, I also found this place that has the SJM400-CF PRO V3 + Pro Motor Kit in stock. CNC had them too, but was out of stock. I just ordered one, looks cool. http://www.rc-tek.com/us_store/sjm40...kit-p1721.html[img][/img]
JD, I also found this place that has the SJM400-CF PRO V3 + Pro Motor Kit in stock. CNC had them too, but was out of stock. I just ordered one, looks cool. http://www.rc-tek.com/us_store/sjm40...kit-p1721.html[img][/img]
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RE: WALKERA 60
mr clueless, good luck, I hope it runs good. The frame looks a little unsuported allowing for flex but you won't know till you get it.
JD
JD
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RE: WALKERA 60
Should get it this week, I agree it looks tiny around the baseplate, but I am a sucker for anything shiny... Did you look at the 450 they have on CNC, looksa like a Trex, but I wasnt sure. What do you think. I had some bad luck with my df 60, one of my aileron servos died while inverted, wish I had a video of the crash, it looked cool. I am running futaba 3114 on it, what do you run? The hitec 55 doesnt fit too good so I got the futabas, but I wouldnt mind trying some different ones. Should have the 60 up in a few days.