thecheatscalc

hey! well I got my futaba 401 gyro in it seems to work fine, but, I've got a few problems.

1 the light won't stop flashing (slowly) which seems to mean it's in standard gyro mode, what must I do to put it in HH mode?
2 it's VERY VERY VERY sensitive! it jerks while my ESC reports its settings! how do I turn this down
3 my tail jerks QUITE A BIT I suspect the yellow servo (non digital) is lagging causing the jerks, how would I stop this, or, do I just need a super fast digital servo?
4 the heli spins at about 10-20rpm which, seems to be a bit fast, the gyro doesn't counter it either, what's wrong here?

if any of you could help I'd be greatly thankful!

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

The single wire must be plugged into a reciever channel and a toggle switch used with end points to set the gain. In your case the gyro isn't in normal mode its not initialized which means it won't work.

I'm not familiar enough with the DF to tell you for sure but you need atleast a 6 channel radio to fly a 401 on a nitro ship because it needs a dedicated channel.

thecheatscalc

well, it is a dedicated channel (ch5) when I plug it in, the problem persists, and it DOES react to movement, it's just really odd.... I should think it would work...

how do you 36 users get your HH gyro to work?

E_Heli

The Walkera #36 Tx does not have fine adjustment on ch5, only ON and OFF. You may use this function to switch between the HH mode and Rate mode. Actually there's no reason to switch back to Rate mode once you have the HH mode setup properly, only when you plan to perform violent 3D stuff.

thecheatscalc

how would I go about turning that on? as really that's all I'm looking for!

E_Heli

I don't think the W#36 Tx has adjustment on ch5, just on and off. I use Hitec Eclipse7 radio, it has more bells and whistle.

I just post the setting I use in the W#36 thread, here's again:

channel output---- gain
50-----------------0
51-----------------headlock 2%
52-----------------headlock 4%
80-----------------headlock 60%
100----------------headlock 100%
49-----------------no headlock 2%
48-----------------no headlock 4%
10-----------------no headlock 80%
0-------------------no headlock 100%

credence

My Feedback: (2)

The GY401 requires sensitivty adjustment to operate properly.

If the Walkera transmitter only offers a switch on channel 5, then chances are it's switching between 0 and 100. (or -100 to +100). In other words, in rate mode, you'll barely get any hold, and in heading hold mode, you're gonna get crazy wag.

Also, even in heading hold mode, the gyro light will blink randomly as inputs are given. As far as I can tell, the gyro light blinks whenever the gyro is trying to do something or is responding to a command. If you're just getting a steady blink right from the moment you turn the gyro on, then it's operating in rate mode. For the gyro to work properly, it needs to be turned on in heading hold mode.

In your case, you would've been better off with a GY240 rather than a GY401, as the GY240 has no remote gain.
Your options now are to either buy a proper computer transmitter, or return the 401 and get a 240.

2emx

Another option is to turn the Walkera channel 5 into a proportional channel. I have heard of people doing this by replacing the switch with a variable resistor.

thecheatscalc

I've put a 2Kohm proportionometer (variable resistor) and... so far I haven't been able to test it flying, but, when at full resistance I can't get the light to turn off on the 401! it does seem a bit less sensitive however, but, What Ohmage would you suggest?

While my Tx is apart I see a heat sink on one of the items, which, is getting worriedly hot quite fast, is this normal? if so, how much can these transistors (it's one of those three leaded black "tabs" with a hole at the top)

similar to the one on the right

now, what do you think this is caused by? I see no reason it should heat up that fast, it's not a short, everything seems to be working properly.

2emx

You can determine the "Ohmage" by using a servo. Plug the servo into channel 5 and use the pot to move the servo. Mark the pot position that results in the servo traveling to each end. Also marke the pot position that results in the servo going to its centered position. Plug in the gyro. The center mark on your pot is the zero gain point. The direction on the pot that results in a solid light on the gyro is the HH side. The other direction is the rate damping side. Now you can use the instructions that came with the 401 to set it up. Use the pot on th HH side to adjust gain. (Don't forget to set the centered position per the instructions.)

thecheatscalc

here's the beast!



if you look closely you can note the "heat sink" in the upper left corner, and the small potentiometer in the middle of the left side.

here's the prediciament, when the switch was installed it worked just fine, on and off with the servo test would jet that puppy from one extremity to the other, with my 2Kohm resistor it won't move a milimeter. Any ideas why this would be? the thing CAN'T have that much current!

2emx

Short across the pot leads and then open the pot leads. If the servo jets back and forth with this test then you haven't found the right resistor range.

Yade

I did some testing and I don't think that channel 5 can be made proportional. I could only make it go from one exteme to another, nothing in between.

NVSFlyer

I believe you only have 2 options...One is to buy a 240 and the other is to upgrade and by a new TX and RX if I were you I think if you should get a new TX and RX you will be a lot more happy in the end and then you can use it on your next helicopter.

Yade

I checked my transistor, and it does not get very hot, just warm. It may be getting hot because there is something wrong with the antenna, or the wire going to it.